Are you mechanically inclined? Or perhaps mech-curious?

Many of the little things are straightforward repairs (e.g. rear hatch handle :

/ https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=xc90+rear+hatch+repair) but crazy-expensive at a dealer. I've replaced the hatch handles on three XC90 (New England winters) and convinced my sister-in-law to also DIY. The rear door linkage is probably also straightforward once you remove the panel and see what's inside. I think I've also seen a video recently for the driver side plastic panel with the seat adjustment buttons. Don't have any experience with wiper problems, though someone else here might.

I'm personally partial to the 2.5t engines - the sound, the smooth power curve. It's good in the XC90 and quite quick in the V70.

Soapbox: $2k trade-in + $2k repairs = $4k. I don't think you can find better transportation for $4k on the used-car market, especially if you already like the car. If the engine is running well, the transmission is shifting well, and there's minimal rust, the car has many good years in it. The ~$15k XC90s (e.g. 2012-2014) also need stuff like shocks and struts, etc. or will soon enough.

 

I have an '05 since new with 170k miles and shocks and struts are still good. I would get a second opinion from a private shop. Even if those items need fixing, the parts aren't that expensive. They are also fairly easy to replace in your garage. YouTube has tons of videos for all things you've listed.
These SUVs are fantastic and like mentioned above, unless you have engine/transmission issues, I would keep it as long as possible. At least you know what you have. Buying something used is always a gamble and it might end up costing you more in the end.

 

I have an '05 since new with 170k miles and shocks and struts are still good. I would get a second opinion from a private shop. Even if those items need fixing, the parts aren't that expensive. They are also fairly easy to replace in your garage. YouTube has tons of videos for all things you've listed.
These SUVs are fantastic and like mentioned above, unless you have engine/transmission issues, I would keep it as long as possible. At least you know what you have. Buying something used is always a gamble and it might end up costing you more in the end.

The engine replacement in my ~160k mile '06 2.5T AWD cost me $4500, $2k for a 70k engine and $2.5k for labor. I assure you this is not the worst thing that can go wrong.

It's a great vehicle. TERRIBLE mileage, terrific utility, lots of little things will need taking care of probably, but it will go.

 

Another vote for fixing it and keeping it. That quote sounds super high for struts / shocks and engine mounts. You touched on it being a rough time to buy a car, so keep it! 👍 SwedeSpeed is here to help you fix it.

 

Thanks to everyone who replied! I was quoted $1700 for shocks/struts and $300 for the engine mount. The quote came from a small town auto garage that has been servicing our family’s cars for decades, so I’d be “shocked” if his prices were egregious. I’m pretty handy and feel that I could replace the rear latch and probably fix the door handle too, but look at the damage that rubs my leg every time I get in and out of the car (hurts if I’m wearing a short skirt!)

I was told you can’t replace this part without replacing the entire driver’s seat? I have tried countless times with various adhesives and the Flex Tape you see here, and nothing holds. 😭

 

Thanks to everyone who replied! I was quoted $1700 for shocks/struts and $300 for the engine mount. The quote came from a small town auto garage that has been servicing our family’s cars for decades, so I’d be “shocked” if his prices were egregious. I’m pretty handy and feel that I could replace the rear latch and probably fix the door handle too, but look at the damage that rubs my leg every time I get in and out of the car (hurts if I’m wearing a short skirt!)
View attachment 135311
I was told you can’t replace this part without replacing the entire driver’s seat? I have tried countless times with various adhesives and the Flex Tape you see here, and nothing holds. 😭

I've replaced this part on mine. It took all of 15 minutes. Not much to it. Just make sure the power is off when you unplug anything so you don't get messages on your dash.
I would seriously ask another shop for a quote on shocks and struts. Do you have a Firestone shop near by?

Volvo Seat Side Cover - Genuine Volvo 39802011

Volvo Seat Side Cover - Genuine Volvo 39802011

www.fcpeuro.com

 

Another vote for replacing that part - it’s pretty easy once you see where it clips in. If I remember right, it’s only 1 or 2 Torx screws and then a “snap in” clip.

 

Vote to keep and fix it! I just recently came into a 2004 XC90 2.5T AWD for the steal of a century. Mind you it will need a bit of work, I am excited to finally have an XC. Repair it and enjoy it!

 

Fix and keep! Maintaining a Volvo is the best thing you can do.

 

I'd also get a second opinion on the shocks and struts... especially if it's it's same shop that said you had to replace the entire seat for that side panel.

 

You guys are the best! I’m not really knowledgeable about car models and engines, just love the design of the XC90 (especially the pre 2008 ones) and have always loved older Volvos too. I knew that Volvos can do 200K+ miles easily if taken care of, but wasn’t sure that it made sense to keep putting money into mine. Now I’m totally inspired to keep her going as long as I can. I’ll check around for a better price on the shocks/struts (and whether or not they really need replacing yet), and I’ll DIY the other stuff. I will have to invest in a new wiper switch though, which won’t be cheap, but I’ve had some terrible experiences with the wipers conking out in dangerous conditions (e.g. driving rain on the thruway). I had the motor replaced and the switch contacts cleaned, but the problems persist.

While I’m here I have a quick question: I’ve been noticing for some time that the car makes what I can only describe as rhythmic groaning sounds/lurching when idling with the brakes applied or turning corners at low speeds. When the mechanic said that one of the engine mounts needed replacing, I trusted that this would resolve that issue. Does that sound right to you all?

Oh and one more thing: anyone know what to do about the “alarm system needs servicing” message? I’ve had that one on for years now and have no interest in fixing whatever the problem is because I don’t need or want an alarm…

THANK YOU!

 

You guys are the best! I’m not really knowledgeable about car models and engines, just love the design of the XC90 (especially the pre 2008 ones) and have always loved older Volvos too. I knew that Volvos can do 200K+ miles easily if taken care of, but wasn’t sure that it made sense to keep putting money into mine. Now I’m totally inspired to keep her going as long as I can. I’ll check around for a better price on the shocks/struts (and whether or not they really need replacing yet), and I’ll DIY the other stuff. I will have to invest in a new wiper switch though, which won’t be cheap, but I’ve had some terrible experiences with the wipers conking out in dangerous conditions (e.g. driving rain on the thruway). I had the motor replaced and the switch contacts cleaned, but the problems persist.

While I’m here I have a quick question: I’ve been noticing for some time that the car makes what I can only describe as rhythmic groaning sounds/lurching when idling with the brakes applied or turning corners at low speeds. When the mechanic said that one of the engine mounts needed replacing, I trusted that this would resolve that issue. Does that sound right to you all?

Oh and one more thing: anyone know what to do about the “alarm system needs servicing” message? I’ve had that one on for years now and have no interest in fixing whatever the problem is because I don’t need or want an alarm…

THANK YOU!

The groaning/lurching is likely the PCV system (my 07’ 2.5T XC70 did the same until I had the system replaced... think it was $350 or so). A way to test this is to take off the oil cap and put a glove over it. If the glove inflates your PCV system is clogged. Alarm is a relatively common issue and maybe $250 replaced at a shop.

 

Wow, thanks for pointing out that it might be the PVC. I’ve had issues with the engine burning through oil at a fast rate and this seems to be consistent with PVC issues. Is this a repair I could possibly tackle myself? I already have the seat side panel and tailgate latch in my cart on eeuroparts so I’m gearing up for a big repair sesh.

 

- The engine mount is most likely the mount on passenger side, near the crank pulley.
This engine mount usually collapses around 140K-150K or so.
Use only Genuine Volvo or Hutchinson brand (search FCPEuro.com), about $42 for Hutchinson brand. Easy DIY, the most important part is safety (jack stand etc.). Anyone with basic skills can do it.

- The front and rear suspensions: I also have a 2005 XC90 2.5T with 125K, the suspensions were bad at 120K or so. I wrote detailed DIYs in matthews volvo forum, just search for it. Front susp overhaul cost me around $1200 just for the parts (by the time the strut is bad, the contorol arm is bad too etc.). Rear susp overhaul (control arm bushing, shocks, springs) cost me approx. $500.

- Just search "matthews volvo forum" for info...

- If you have not done the timing belt and its pulleys, time to do it.

- Properly maintained 2.5T engine easily lasts some 250K-300K miles. Once done, you can buy a Tesla lol...

 

- The engine mount is most likely the mount on passenger side, near the crank pulley.
This engine mount usually collapses around 140K-150K or so.
Use only Genuine Volvo or Hutchinson brand (search FCPEuro.com), about $42 for Hutchinson brand. Easy DIY, the most important part is safety (jack stand etc.). Anyone with basic skills can do it.

The estimate specified "passenger/front engine mount loose, replace as soon as possible." I searched for the part on FCP and after filtering for my model there are four types: front, front and rear lower, right, and upper. So I guess I should assume "front" is the right one? Or could it be front lower? So confusing!

And according to this video, replacing the front engine mount apparently doesn't require jacking up the car?

I do so appreciate your help.

 

I would clean your MAF sensor and throttle body. Those two are usually culprits in the idle performance issues.

 

Thank you! Are these services I could DIY? I'm very handy but have almost no experience with car engines...

 

I've had my 2006 2.5 XC90 for almost 10 years and it has been very reliable, but I'm now faced with a difficult decision after getting an estimate for necessary repairs totaling over $2k (shocks and struts and an engine mount replacement). She has 150K miles and a number of little things broken like the glove box lever, the driver side plastic panel that holds the seat adjustment buttons, a rusted out handle on the rear hatch that sticks every time, and one of the rear doors that won't open from the inside, as well as unreliable wipers that nobody seems to be able to fix. According to my research, the trade in value is around $2000 at best. So, I'm hesitant to put more money into it and tempted to trade for a more recent model.

BUT! It's a terrible time to buy a car. There is very little inventory. Prices are high. The only models in my budget that I've found are 1.5 to 3 hours away from me. (I'm looking at XC90s and XC70s in the max $15k range.) I'm also very inexperienced in buying used cars and don't know anything about the various engine types, nor what are the "right" questions to ask the dealer.

So here I am, humbly asking you Volvo lovers/experts: what should I do?
Thanks!

$2000 vs $15,000? I would absolutely FIX that beauty. My 05 XC70 has 234,xxx miles. I would also get a second opinion (without sharing the first) on the repairs. Take a peek on RockAuto and price out the parts and figure out how much they're (over)charging you.

 

I have a 2007 XC70, bought in 2013. I'm 71 and it's the most wonderful car I have ever owned. Has only 110,000 miles on it.
It has a habit of giving warnings for all different things intermittently, but my indie Volvo specialist says it would be hugely expensive to try and track it all down, and to just drive the car and enjoy it.
With what a replacement would cost, barring a major engine or transmission problem I will maintain this beautiful car as long as it (or I) lasts!

 

Thanks again to everyone for tips and suggestions! I decided to repair the car as much as I can myself. I ordered a new seat side panel and tailgate latch, as well as the side engine mount. I decided to tackle the engine mount today and it has been a nightmare. I was able to get 4 of the tire’s lug nuts off fairly easily, but the 5th was not going to budge under any circumstances. I worked at it for an hour, sweating and swearing, until I finally gave up, put the other lug nuts back on, and drove to the nearest garage to ask them to loosen it for me. Which they kindly did. Back home, I took off the tire and jacked the car up on 2 jack stands, and peeled back the plastic guard to get access to the engine mount. I had my 17mm ratchet wrench all ready, and it was like déjà vu. The first bolt I tried, the right one, is not about to loosen. Just for kicks I had a go at the two vertical bolts and they simply laughed at me. Not to mention the bolt to the left, that is basically inaccessible. I watched videos online on how to don’t this repair and they mention the bolts can be hard, but I didn’t expect this. I tried PBlaster, using a hammer to whack the wrench, etc. It’s not happening. I gave up for today and though I’d come back here to ask for help, or at least moral support…

 

I would get an electric impact wrench. They are cheap and come very handy. Just make sure it is on the small side so you can access tight spaces with it.

 

I looked at these, but it seems they might only work for the top bolts that face me. The left and right ones need would to be accessed from the top and there is no room to put an impact wrench.

 

A Dewalt 899 or a wrench extender might help. Alternatively, I've found that a 1/2 inch breaker bar can sometimes do the trick. Think about how to get more leverage if you don't go the impact wrench route.

 

Don’t have the budget for the Dewalt, but the breaker bar route seems like a good one. Just have to find a short 17mm socket to go with. Also, not sure the breaker bar will be helpful for the vertical bolts though?

 

I did this recently (and my car is quite corroded underneath). Don't recall it being terrible, but I did extend my wrenches (using another wrench). For the vertical ones, also consider that if you set the jack lightly underneath the oil pan, it should take the weight off the bolts slightly which could help.

 

I did already set the jack lightly under the oil pan. But it’s good to know you managed despite the corrosion.

 

Wrench extender noted here- V8 (B8444S) related information | Page 4 | SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum , you can sort out the breaker bar at any decent auto parts store. Bonus in that the impact wrench WILL get used if you're doing the suspension and I'm 100% sure it would have taken that last pesky lug nut off your hub. Use 6-point impact sockets when possible, those nice looking chrome 12-points may not get you the leverage you'll need before you round the nut.

 

those nice looking chrome 12-points may not get you the leverage you'll need before you round the nut.

Or split the socket....

 

The right tools almost make working on the XC90 fun. Almost...

 

K, go to the hardware store and buy a 2 lb dead-blow orange hammer or a sledge. Then see if they have any decent quality open end wrenches of appropriate size and length. Get a set that includes 8mm to 21mm if you can swing it, you'll need most of them at one point or another If your bolts are still with good edges, lay the wrench in hold it down then start easy on tapping and go from there. Fingers/hands out of way, etc. Bottom bolts are steel to steel, they're the tough ones in my opinion. For the side bolts, those are steel into aluminum and they'll come out with some more levering. You can also bang away at that wrench extender I had a photo of and I'm sure that @John C will have some more ideas (he really is pretty good at this stuff).

 

Well I'm sorry to report that I was unable to replace the engine mount. I bought a breaker bar and the shortest sockets I could find, but there wasn't enough clearance to get the tool in there. I tried using a 4-foot metal pipe for leverage with no luck. I even tried using a torch several times. I worked for hours trying all 4 bolts and not one of them would budge. When the rightmost bolt, which I worked on the most, started getting stripped, I gave up and put the tire back on. There is no way to get the bolts out without pro-level equipment. So disappointing!

 

Sounds like you gave it a lot of good effort. That's more than I would know how to do ...

You mentioned a local shop in one of your earlier posts. Maybe they could do this job for you without breaking the bank?

 

I've had my 2006 2.5 XC90 for almost 10 years and it has been very reliable, but I'm now faced with a difficult decision after getting an estimate for necessary repairs totaling over $2k (shocks and struts and an engine mount replacement). She has 150K miles and a number of little things broken like the glove box lever, the driver side plastic panel that holds the seat adjustment buttons, a rusted out handle on the rear hatch that sticks every time, and one of the rear doors that won't open from the inside, as well as unreliable wipers that nobody seems to be able to fix. According to my research, the trade in value is around $2000 at best. So, I'm hesitant to put more money into it and tempted to trade for a more recent model.

BUT! It's a terrible time to buy a car. There is very little inventory. Prices are high. The only models in my budget that I've found are 1.5 to 3 hours away from me. (I'm looking at XC90s and XC70s in the max $15k range.) I'm also very inexperienced in buying used cars and don't know anything about the various engine types, nor what are the "right" questions to ask the dealer.

So here I am, humbly asking you Volvo lovers/experts: what should I do?
Thanks!

Get rid of your 2.5 liter then look for the V8 XC90s. Autolist got lots of low mileage V8s lower than your price range. Clean CARFAX.

 

Hi everyone. I thought I'd come back here for an update and another request for advice. I replaced a bunch of broken things myself (tailgate latch, glove box latch, driver seat side cover) and after being unable to install the engine mount myself, found someone to do it for me cheaply. However the windshield wipers ended up costing me $2700 at the Poughkeepsie Volvo dealership (after me already spending over $500 two separate times to have mechanics fail to fix the issue) because the problem was the CEM. I attempted to go the Xemodex route, but when I tried to remove the CEM from my car I was shut out by a total inability to even remove a windshield wiper (bolts completely frozen and I don't have an impact driver). Only other option was to go to Volvo. Everyone I've told that it cost me $2700 to fix my wipers finds that insane, and I have to agree. But it worked, and my wipers seem to be completely problem free now.

However, I've been getting an emissions (very small leak) check engine error for the past year that I keep dismissing, and more recently have persistent P0026 and P0027 codes, which pertain to intake and exhaust solenoid valves. Here is the quote from Volvo to fix both:

So, $4990 to get rid of the CE light. Plus, the car needs new shocks and struts, for which I was quoted $1800 by an independent garage. Which means to get my car in good working condition and avoid further issues, I need to spend $6790 in addition to the over $3000 already spent on the wipers. This is all for a 2006 with over 150K miles.
To add insult to injury, one of the rear doors won't open either from inside or out because of a broken part in the interior mechanism, and to replace that will be another couple hundred.

Therefore I'm back here hoping you kind and knowledgeable folds will help me figure out what to do. Do I cut my losses and trade it in? I can't afford to spend more than about $10-15K on a newer car, and because supply is so short and the prices high, it's a bad time to buy a used car. The trade-in value is 1800 but I think that only applies if the car doesn't need repair. I would want either another XC90 or an XC70 wagon. I've found some options in my price range, but I'm still on the fence about whether or not upgrading is the smartest thing, especially at a time like this...
Please help!

 

I really sympathize with your situation - and how frustrating it can be to dump money into a car that does not seem to want to it anymore. If the market were not so screwed up right now, I would say, sell it cheap to someone who will use it as a beater, and get a $5k or $10k XC70 (they are highly numerous around the Northeast where I live). It depends on your gut, like so many things in life. If you have even the inkling that you want to move on, your money will be better spent towards a replacement, trust me. But in the grand scheme of things, 15 years is not too too old for a car these days. You can be selective about the repairs you want to do, as well. I would implore you to shop around more, if possible, to see where you can get this work done cheaper. Your devotement to this car (extremely admirable, by the way) should not put you into unnecessary financial ruin.

I guess I'm about as torn as you are. I would say, trust your instincts. You seldom regret doing that.

 

Sorry if I am not aware of your wrenching ability level. The solenoids sit on top of the engine, under the cover. First is to check if they are leaking. 2nd, is to check their operation. Sorry if the video is large, I cannot resize the video when it automatically embeds. Here is one video in checking the solenoids and there are many more. Solenoid gaskets are fairly cheap and need to be replaced when removing the VVT solenoids. This might be your issue, such as a dead or clogged solenoid, especially if you don't see the camshaft seals leaking oil. If you are leaking oil from the camshaft seals, you will know it as it is very apparent when looking in the timing belt area.

Here are videos about the leak detection in the XC90. You will be surprised about the small hose that could trip an evap leak and it can be changed independently of the evap leak detection pump.