Great write up! I especially like how you wrote about the engine itself versus relative comparison to different engine types.
2010 xc90 3.2 using Tapatalk
2010 xc90 3.2 using Tapatalk
The 3.2L (B6324S) Engine: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly. A resource for all Volvo models.
I figure we could get a 3.2L thread going. I'll kick it off, but hope others can add to it. I've only had my 2011 for a year now, but I've read as much as I could in VIDA and elsewhere. A great debt of thanks goes to Swedespeed forum members who have helped me out over the past year.
If you've ever worked on the twin-turbo T6 engine in the XC90, and wanted something more practical that was easier to work on, the B6324S is the engine for you. It, combined with the 3.0L turbo, comprises Volvo's "Short Inline 6" (SI6) Engines. Supposedly, the block is a smidgen shorter than the 5-cyl. Supposedly. These are designed by Volvo and built by Ford's factory in Whales. It is also used in the Land Rover Freestyle/LR2. Everything on it is easy access, especially under the hood of the XC90. Coming from Volvos older tried and true "Red Blocks", I actually really love this engine. The first iteration of the B6324S had some design issues that were remedied for the 2011 model year's B6324S5 engine. This later version of the engine uses a bit less motor oil, has fewer special tool requirements, and was "optimized" to be a little more efficient.
The normally aspirated 3.2L engine is perfectly "adequate". It's no sports car. I've driven the 3.0L turbo version in an XC60, and that does go like a stabbed rat. That said, the drive train connected to the 3.2L is the same used with the V8 of the same model year, so this engine is well within the drivetrain's limits. I've yet to hear of transmission or bevel gear failures. Yet.
It's worth pointing out that the SI6 engines use a different filter cartridge than the previous generation of engines.
The good (relative to earlier XC90 inline petrol engines):
-"Life time" timing chain
-All the stuff that was difficult to do on the old series of engines (PCV?) is dead simple on the SI6 engines. Some stuff is even easier to do than on my old RWD Volvo's.
-A camshaft driven vacuum pump runs the brake booster instead of an electric pump.
-Oil filter is a cinch to access.
-All of the engine accessories are easy access as they are run off of the Rear Engine Accessory Drive (READ)
The bad:
150K mile service is a little ouchy: It involves changing the serpentine belt and all that it touches. INA makes a number of the parts, and they can be had relatively inexpensively from FCP Euro. it does require some special tools to remove the decoupler pulley. These tools can be found as generic decoupler pulley tools. I have these written down somewhere. I'm hoping to do a video/write-up on mine in the next few weeks. While at it, do the thermostat housing at the 150K mile service. This service is probably a budget breaker if you do not DIY.
A set of special tools is needed to manipulate the cams and crankshaft should pretty much any engine work be needed. This set of tools is available aftermarket on eBay for $250-ish.
The intake manifold is plastic. There are a number of seals both for the manifold-head junction, as well as for the actuators that modulate the runner lengths. The seals for the latter are NLA from Volvo, but can be had from Land Rover. I'll share these numbers ASAP.
The ugly:
Volvo put the two of the four cat converters in the exhaust manifold. Currently, they are wallet cripplingly expensive.
READ units prior to late 2010 model year have failure issues. The system is splash lubricated, and the bearings can be failure areas. Rebuilds are possible, but expensive (A machine ship really needs to do this work), and special tools are needed to get the READ unit out. Used units are available, and have been used, though VIDA claims that each READ unit is machined to be specific to each engine block. The newer "S5" engines (2011-on) have ball bearings instead of needle bearings in the READ unit. This bearing change seems to be a step in the right direction.
The A/C bracket on earlier B6324S engines needed special tools to realign if removed. This, too, was changed for the S5 version, and no special tools are needed.
There's definite hit or miss oil consumption with these engines. I've been fortunate with mine at 150K miles, though people with engines older and newer than mine have reported problems. I'm running 5W-30 Mobil 1.
Please feel free to correct me, and to add to what you know. There are some really excellent folks in this forum that have really helped me.
Thanks, all!
-Ryan
If you've ever worked on the twin-turbo T6 engine in the XC90, and wanted something more practical that was easier to work on, the B6324S is the engine for you. It, combined with the 3.0L turbo, comprises Volvo's "Short Inline 6" (SI6) Engines. Supposedly, the block is a smidgen shorter than the 5-cyl. Supposedly. These are designed by Volvo and built by Ford's factory in Whales. It is also used in the Land Rover Freestyle/LR2. Everything on it is easy access, especially under the hood of the XC90. Coming from Volvos older tried and true "Red Blocks", I actually really love this engine. The first iteration of the B6324S had some design issues that were remedied for the 2011 model year's B6324S5 engine. This later version of the engine uses a bit less motor oil, has fewer special tool requirements, and was "optimized" to be a little more efficient.
The normally aspirated 3.2L engine is perfectly "adequate". It's no sports car. I've driven the 3.0L turbo version in an XC60, and that does go like a stabbed rat. That said, the drive train connected to the 3.2L is the same used with the V8 of the same model year, so this engine is well within the drivetrain's limits. I've yet to hear of transmission or bevel gear failures. Yet.
It's worth pointing out that the SI6 engines use a different filter cartridge than the previous generation of engines.
The good (relative to earlier XC90 inline petrol engines):
-"Life time" timing chain
-All the stuff that was difficult to do on the old series of engines (PCV?) is dead simple on the SI6 engines. Some stuff is even easier to do than on my old RWD Volvo's.
-A camshaft driven vacuum pump runs the brake booster instead of an electric pump.
-Oil filter is a cinch to access.
-All of the engine accessories are easy access as they are run off of the Rear Engine Accessory Drive (READ)
The bad:
150K mile service is a little ouchy: It involves changing the serpentine belt and all that it touches. INA makes a number of the parts, and they can be had relatively inexpensively from FCP Euro. it does require some special tools to remove the decoupler pulley. These tools can be found as generic decoupler pulley tools. I have these written down somewhere. I'm hoping to do a video/write-up on mine in the next few weeks. While at it, do the thermostat housing at the 150K mile service. This service is probably a budget breaker if you do not DIY.
A set of special tools is needed to manipulate the cams and crankshaft should pretty much any engine work be needed. This set of tools is available aftermarket on eBay for $250-ish.
The intake manifold is plastic. There are a number of seals both for the manifold-head junction, as well as for the actuators that modulate the runner lengths. The seals for the latter are NLA from Volvo, but can be had from Land Rover. I'll share these numbers ASAP.
The ugly:
Volvo put the two of the four cat converters in the exhaust manifold. Currently, they are wallet cripplingly expensive.
READ units prior to late 2010 model year have failure issues. The system is splash lubricated, and the bearings can be failure areas. Rebuilds are possible, but expensive (A machine ship really needs to do this work), and special tools are needed to get the READ unit out. Used units are available, and have been used, though VIDA claims that each READ unit is machined to be specific to each engine block. The newer "S5" engines (2011-on) have ball bearings instead of needle bearings in the READ unit. This bearing change seems to be a step in the right direction.
The A/C bracket on earlier B6324S engines needed special tools to realign if removed. This, too, was changed for the S5 version, and no special tools are needed.
There's definite hit or miss oil consumption with these engines. I've been fortunate with mine at 150K miles, though people with engines older and newer than mine have reported problems. I'm running 5W-30 Mobil 1.
Please feel free to correct me, and to add to what you know. There are some really excellent folks in this forum that have really helped me.
Thanks, all!
-Ryan
1 - 20 of 248 Posts
Subbing for further discussion.
I have a 2009 3.2, so I assume I have the B6324S engine. Luckily, I do not have abnormal oil consumption and don't know what a READ bearing issue is (but am now worried), but thus far at 155K miles the only issue I have encountered was the PCV valve failure, which was a very simple fix. $110 part and 40 minutes of wrench time (20 minutes for someone who wasn't going extra slow and careful like I was).
I have a 2009 3.2, so I assume I have the B6324S engine. Luckily, I do not have abnormal oil consumption and don't know what a READ bearing issue is (but am now worried), but thus far at 155K miles the only issue I have encountered was the PCV valve failure, which was a very simple fix. $110 part and 40 minutes of wrench time (20 minutes for someone who wasn't going extra slow and careful like I was).
Yeah, mine has definitely been a "miss". I'm going to try Mobile 1 next. Interestingly, my oil consumption issues started during my first oil change using Castrol Edge Full Synthetic High Mileage oil. So much for good intentions... I think this happened around 125K miles. Prior to that I had never had to add oil between 7500 mile oil change intervals. Imagine my surprise when the oil level warning came on mid interval. I think I added a quart and was able to make it to the next oil change. I went back to the oil I had been using, but by the time the next oil change interval came up I was adding a quart every 1000 - 1500 miles. My last oil change I've been adding oil every 1000 miles. I keep track of the mileage, in case, but I've been able to wait for the warning to come on.There's definite hit or miss oil consumption with these engines. I've been fortunate with mine at 150K miles, though people with engines older and newer than mine have reported problems. I'm running 5W-30 Mobil 1.
Next change I'm going to try Mobil 1...
Anyone think my woes were caused by the Castrol Edge Full Synthetic High Mileage oil?
I think that's just a coincidence. I haven't followed your story but have you changed the PCV yet?Anyone think my woes were caused by the Castrol Edge Full Synthetic High Mileage oil?
I change the pvc myself last year, it was easy to do and was necessary as I didn't like the whistling noise it started to make.
I also had a nasty "delayed maintenance" problem that melted the idler pully that cost me about 1/4 of what I paid for the vehicle (to be fair, it did include a grin wheel bearing that was pretty much welded to the drive shaft apparently). Ahhhh, the sins of Previous Owners not doing their damn maintenance.
New winter Tires and New Big battery. The rear diff pump was replaced when I got it.
I've put some good money into her but she'll last me well into my next vehicle, which won't be for a while
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I also had a nasty "delayed maintenance" problem that melted the idler pully that cost me about 1/4 of what I paid for the vehicle (to be fair, it did include a grin wheel bearing that was pretty much welded to the drive shaft apparently). Ahhhh, the sins of Previous Owners not doing their damn maintenance.
New winter Tires and New Big battery. The rear diff pump was replaced when I got it.
I've put some good money into her but she'll last me well into my next vehicle, which won't be for a while
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
(Jan. 2023) This post is going to be continuously updated. New updates will be indicated in a blue color font. The links have also been cleaned up so entire embedded YouTube videos don't take up a lot of room and there's added threads/posts since this 3.2 thread started. This entire thread is useful and I encourage you to read it all if you can. Some of the main info is below.
❗ The single biggest cause of issues with XC90s and 3.2 engines is delayed maintenance.
Volvo 3.2 SI6 engine: B6324S | Oil Consumption - Engine info
❕ (May 2023) Note: Many 3.2 owners report having serpentine and cooling parts fail between 105k-135k miles. That means before complete failure, major wear and age were building up, such as having a wobbly pulley or some seeping coolant. There are also reports of the A/C compressor getting damaged due to delayed serpentine work.
Scheduled Service (New)
I am adding this table to help with the scheduled service for the 3.2 engine. Thanks to posts on SwedeSpeed, 3.2 owners have shown the Volvo/dealership recommended service intervals to be too long. The shorter intervals are listed based on owners' experiences with repairs. Explanations, links, and videos are provided after the table.
⭐Here's a list of serpentine, decoupler (A/C side), and vacuum pump parts and part numbers. (New)
Serpentine Belt Service (plus water pump, thermostat, & hoses)
I've done all the 3.2 maintenance myself and I suggest not to wait until 150k miles to do the serpentine belt service. I suggest to service it closer to 100k miles. This should include the belt, pulleys, tensioner, water pump (kit), water pump coupling (could break upon removal) and thermostat. At ~90k miles, I could already hear pulley bearing wear noise (scratchy). You can start with the first link below (workshop manual, 3.2 serpentine) and work through the following pages for a guide on the process. I would add to do the thermostat at the same time as the water pump. I did not use any special tools. The thermostat assembly is electronic (has a temp sensor) and accessible under the intake manifold. I was able to change it without removing the intake using a long extension and a flex joint (or universal joint). Lastly, on the drive belt itself, use a good brand, such as Volvo or Contitech. I have used Goodyear or another brand in other European cars and they are not the right size.
- Use quality Volvo coolant or equivalent European formula, such as G48.
➕ Many people change the large radiator hoses, but miss one small oil cooler hose and o-ring. The plastic end of the small hose can get brittle & break and the o-ring can start to leak. This is the thread for the small hose and o-ring people miss. Part numbers: small hose 30713530, o-ring 31109235. Good idea to change at the same time. Double check a plastic piece didn't break off in the engine block, this is common.
❕ Keep an eye on the coolant reservoir because between 100k-150k miles there have been multiple reports of the plastic nipples fatiguing & cracking, where the coolant hoses connect to. Some replace this reservoir as well as the cap (it's a pressure release).
Decoupler & seal (new)
This has been seen to last ~120k-150k miles, but needs the serpentine to be apart. Best is to combine this job with the serpentine work at 100k miles because this decoupler pulley drives the serpentine system. You can test if it will spin one way and not the other.
This decoupler (overrun clutch) and seal is on the A/C side of the engine. The direction for loosening this decoupler pulley bolt is standard thread direction (righty tighty, lefty loosie), but needs a special tool to hold the decoupler pulley while loosening the torx center bolt.
⚠This decoupler could be listed under the alternator section in parts lists, but you will know it's the A/C side decoupler because it has ribs on its pulley to match the serpentine belt.
➕ The decoupler seal does not need a special tool if you purchase a quality aftermarket seal. Here is a thread showing how the aftermarket seals come with a plastic tool.
➕ up to 2010, 3.2 A/C bracket may need an alignment tool. Upon removal of the A/C bracket for the decoupler access, there are spacers for the mounting bolts and a spacer washer under the center of the bracket. You can get away without an alignment tool if you don't spin/turn the adjusting spacers, mark their position & the bracket position, and tape the spacers from moving while you do the rest of the service. If you do accidentally move/spin the spacers, then you need to find the tool 999-7262. Here is a thread on it. You can find this tool as aftermarket, or on ebay. I bought one off of Amazon (JM Auto Tools brand).
-Get the: 1) decoupler, 2) cover (might come with the decoupler), 3) seal, and 4) new bolt in case you strip it. Add the special pulley bolt tool.
Oil Selection
I've done tons of research and shared my work/experience on other posts. I suggest Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 (A3/B3, A3/B4) for its cold weather flow, high temp protection, and amount of zinc. The zinc can help prevent wear associated with 3.2 oil consumption. Also, use a good oil filter such as Mann, Mahle, or Volvo. I like to keep a 5,000-5,500 mile oil change interval instead of 7,500. Oil is cheap compared to engine work due to oil consumption caused by premature wear. I don't like conventional oil for this modern engine because conventional oil with use can get too thick on cold temp start-ups and too thin when hot. Too thick of an oil on cold temp start-up might bypass the oil filter because of the high oil pressure as well as take longer to reach the vital engine parts. A bad combination. Lastly, do not overfill the engine as the oil may go through the PCV.
❕ If you look at the threads with the oil analyses linked below, the synthetic 5W-30 oils (typically A1/B1, A5/B5 spec) shear down to a 20 weight by ~3k miles.
Oil consumption, P0420/P0430 code (new)
These two issues can be related. Oil consumption affects both variants of the 3.2 engines. The key factor is to use quality synthetic oil with shorter 5k mile oil change intervals. If your 3.2 has been strictly maintained at the dealership, this can cause the oil consumption issue due to the extended oil change intervals (oil breaks down and can lead to carbon buildup). Look at the used oil analyses listed in the "Oil Selection" section to see why the dealership/Volvo 7,500 oil change interval can cause issues (the 5W-30 oil also shears down, gets too thin).
Alternator
This is a part that could fail, but it is not difficult to change. It is also known because the bolt for the drive gear can come loose on the READ side. If this decoupler seizes, it could cause the drive gear bolt to loosen, connected to the READ side (click for forum thread), causing a charging issue. Regarding trying to refresh an alternator, sometimes it makes more sense to change an entire alternator rather than trying to refresh it with a new decoupler and voltage regulator parts. The cost of those parts could equal 60%+ of a new alternator, and refreshing an old alternator would still have an old bearing. A new alternator should have a warranty as well (lifetime if from FCP). Here are videos to help guide changing it. If you have to change the alternator or have access, remove the decoupler's drive gear bolt (READ side) and add blue Loctite to prevent it from backing out. New intake manifold seals should be used and the Victor Reinz ones are affordable.
⚠This decoupler could be listed under the serpentine section in the parts lists and it has a cog gear as its pulley.
Videos for the alternator:
Engine Mounts
Do them around 100k miles. Depending on driver history and driving style, you can go longer or shorter. All XC90 engine variants will need engine mounts. The 3.2 does not have the same type of upper torque mount style as the 2.5 or V8, but has one on the passenger side. If you hear a metallic vibrating noise, it could be your upper torque mount. Hutchinson brand is a great brand alternative to the original Volvo.
PCV (a.k.a. oil separator)
Many many newer engines use an internal diaphragm for the PCV or crankcase ventilation. This part on top of the engine can cause a whine or vacuum sound and may cause an oil consumption or running issue. I also suggest a scheduled replacement around 100k miles. It is not if but when the diaphragm rubber will break (same in many other new engines across different makes). Get the entire unit either Volvo or OE FoMoCo brand or Land Rover. All the same, but the Volvo brand could be cheaper at times. Easy to change. A 10 min job.
❕ This part does not need to be whistling to be bad. Before it completely fails, or is contributing to oil consumption without noise (this oil can also go to the catalytic), it's a good idea to change it. The PCV is also known as an oil separator.
Spark Plugs
I like to use original Volvo ones, but people (and I) have used Bosch. I think Denso is used for the later S5 engine (2011+). I don't trust other brands as far as it running smoothly in the engine. Change around 50k miles because the 3.2 likes to rev on downshifts. That extra use in upper rpms can increase spark plug wear.
Ignition Coils
These should last a long time. The 3.2 does not suffer from the same coil pack issues seen in the 2.5t. You can wait until one goes and then replace all 6 so there is a more equal spark between cylinders. Also, change all six because if one goes, the others might not be too far behind. If you want to change them on a scheduled timeframe, then 150k miles is a good mileage based on normal wear on the coils/boots (people do see them last past 200k miles, some have not). If your 3.2 has over 150k miles and you are planning a road trip across the country with kids, do the coils. These can stop your drive and might take days to source parts (depending on your location), worse if it's a weekend. Delphi coils from FCP should be marked FoMoCo and are OE coils. Post further down this thread about replacement coils.
Brake Vacuum Pump
The seal for the vacuum pump can leak oil. The remedy is an affordable kit. Not difficult to do and easy to check for the oil leaking. It can go at 60k miles or at 120k miles, not really mileage specific. Fix if leaking.
➕ There is a plastic coupling/connector connecting the brake vacuum hose to the vacuum pump. This important connector can break easily upon removal due to the plastic spring clip lock. Here is the replacement part number (30714933 ) and a thread about it.
Videos:
Fuel Pressure Sensor
This sensor will fail, do it around 100k-120k miles. This part is shared across engines and models for Volvo and is a known failure sensor indicated by a trouble code. Buy Bosch. There is less room to remove the holding screw than in a 2.5t. I used the same bit ratchet used for the water pump coupling and a flathead screwdriver wrapped in a towel to give very little side force to keep the ratchet straight (between the ratchet and valve cover hump). Another option is to purchase an "L" shaped torx set. It is vital to use the correct size torx so you don't strip the screw. Should be a tight fit and you can test the fit on a new screw (p/n 986201).
Fuel system cleaner, Fuel injection cleaning (new)
With the 3.2 engines getting older and you have already changed the fuel filter at 100k miles, the next thing to do for maintenance is a good modern fuel system cleaner. This will help with rust cleaning, the negative effects of ethanol in gas, and build-up in fuel injectors. You can do every other oil change. Some people do it before each of their oil changes so any contaminants that go into the oil are removed.
R.E.A.D
You do not want this problem, but if you hear metallic bearing noise around the serpentine area, then you may have a READ issue, but I haven't really heard of people having an issue recently. Personally, I think good oil and good oil change intervals can help with this area. Most of the 3.2s with these issues have already expired from the market. Here is info on what it takes to fix it.
Technical Bulletin (TJ)
This is if there is an oil consumption issue. Many still do not have it, including mine. It is helpful in what to look for, such as with reading the spark plugs.
http://australiancar.reviews/_pdfs/Volvo_Technical-Journal-24643_I6-oil-consumption_201204.pdf
❗ The single biggest cause of issues with XC90s and 3.2 engines is delayed maintenance.
- Here is a general video about the 3.2 (& P3 T6) maintenance guide. Note, the suggested maintenance schedule and intervals are posted below in the table based on real-world feedback from 3.2 owners and can differ from this video. FCP 3.2 diagnostic & maintenance guide
- ⭐ Here is an online resource for factory (VIDA) documents, and repair guides. (scroll to the bottom for the XC90 versions): Free Online Volvo factory repair guides seen in VIDA (may have to use an ad blocker, click outside of the pop-up screen)
Volvo 3.2 SI6 engine: B6324S | Oil Consumption - Engine info
❕ (May 2023) Note: Many 3.2 owners report having serpentine and cooling parts fail between 105k-135k miles. That means before complete failure, major wear and age were building up, such as having a wobbly pulley or some seeping coolant. There are also reports of the A/C compressor getting damaged due to delayed serpentine work.
Scheduled Service (New)
I am adding this table to help with the scheduled service for the 3.2 engine. Thanks to posts on SwedeSpeed, 3.2 owners have shown the Volvo/dealership recommended service intervals to be too long. The shorter intervals are listed based on owners' experiences with repairs. Explanations, links, and videos are provided after the table.
| Part/Service | Volvo recommendation (miles) | Repair schedule and interval based on Owners' experience (miles) |
|---|---|---|
| Serpentine Belt Service | 150,000 | 100,000 |
| Cooling System | 150,000 | 100,000 |
| Decoupler (A/C side) | 150,000 | 100,000 |
| Alternator | When there is an issue with charging | When there is an issue, but the decoupler bolted to the alternator can seize. If you have the alternator out, or have access, check the decoupler and gear/pulley bolt. Should have been checked by 130k-150k miles, but if this alternator decoupler seizes, it could potentially cause the drive gear bolt to loosen. |
| Oil and Oil change interval | 7,500 mile interval, 5W-30, 0W-30 Euro Castrol (A3/B3) | 5,000 mile interval, 0W-40 oil (A3/B3, A3/B4) |
| Engine mounts | when it breaks | 100,000 |
| PCV | when you hear a whistle | 100,000-120,000 |
| Spark Plugs | ~65,000-70,000 | 50,000 |
| Ignition Coils | when they leave you stranded | 150,000 |
| Brake vacuum pump seal/o-ring kit | when it leaks oil | 75,000-125,000, if you have over 125k miles install the seal/o-ring kit before it leaks oil |
| Fuel pressure sensor | when you get a code and engine runs rough | 100,000-120,000 |
| Fuel system & injector cleaning | may upsell as part of major service | -Fuel filter every 100,000 -Use a good modern fuel system cleaner once every other oil change since these 3.2s are older. Some owners do it before each oil change. |
| Transmission fluid | Volvo recommended lifetime, no replacement (this recommendation conflicted with the maker of the transmission, Aisin) | -60,000-80,000 first change (12 qts) -20,000-40,000 interval after the first (12 qts) -If over 110,000 miles doing 1st change, do a 2nd change within 500-1k miles (12 qts). Then follow the 20k-40k interval. -Use specific transmission spec fluid. Do NOT use multi-spec/universal trans fluid. Depending on year and VIN, it's either JWS3309 (T-IV) or JWS3324 (WS) that you need. |
⭐Here's a list of serpentine, decoupler (A/C side), and vacuum pump parts and part numbers. (New)
Serpentine Belt Service (plus water pump, thermostat, & hoses)
I've done all the 3.2 maintenance myself and I suggest not to wait until 150k miles to do the serpentine belt service. I suggest to service it closer to 100k miles. This should include the belt, pulleys, tensioner, water pump (kit), water pump coupling (could break upon removal) and thermostat. At ~90k miles, I could already hear pulley bearing wear noise (scratchy). You can start with the first link below (workshop manual, 3.2 serpentine) and work through the following pages for a guide on the process. I would add to do the thermostat at the same time as the water pump. I did not use any special tools. The thermostat assembly is electronic (has a temp sensor) and accessible under the intake manifold. I was able to change it without removing the intake using a long extension and a flex joint (or universal joint). Lastly, on the drive belt itself, use a good brand, such as Volvo or Contitech. I have used Goodyear or another brand in other European cars and they are not the right size.
- Use quality Volvo coolant or equivalent European formula, such as G48.
➕ Many people change the large radiator hoses, but miss one small oil cooler hose and o-ring. The plastic end of the small hose can get brittle & break and the o-ring can start to leak. This is the thread for the small hose and o-ring people miss. Part numbers: small hose 30713530, o-ring 31109235. Good idea to change at the same time. Double check a plastic piece didn't break off in the engine block, this is common.
❕ Keep an eye on the coolant reservoir because between 100k-150k miles there have been multiple reports of the plastic nipples fatiguing & cracking, where the coolant hoses connect to. Some replace this reservoir as well as the cap (it's a pressure release).
- Online workshop manual for 3.2 serpentine, water pump
- Tool I used to gain access to the water pump coupling (might also need torx bit set)
- Volvo 3.2 XC70 accessory belt, water pump, decoupler (clutch), all pulleys (new)
- Ryan R's video on Serpentine and water pump (new)
- LR2 3.2 pulley & Belt removal
- LR2 pulley & Belt removal part 2
- Volvo 2008 3.2 drive belt replacement
- Volvo 3.2 Thermostat
- ❕ If you are approaching 200k miles, it's a good idea to change the rest of the coolant hoses since they have plastic parts that get brittle (video) (new)
- Here is a thread about the leaking small coolant hose breaking and leaving a small part of the plastic end inside the engine block. (New)
Decoupler & seal (new)
This has been seen to last ~120k-150k miles, but needs the serpentine to be apart. Best is to combine this job with the serpentine work at 100k miles because this decoupler pulley drives the serpentine system. You can test if it will spin one way and not the other.
This decoupler (overrun clutch) and seal is on the A/C side of the engine. The direction for loosening this decoupler pulley bolt is standard thread direction (righty tighty, lefty loosie), but needs a special tool to hold the decoupler pulley while loosening the torx center bolt.
⚠This decoupler could be listed under the alternator section in parts lists, but you will know it's the A/C side decoupler because it has ribs on its pulley to match the serpentine belt.
➕ The decoupler seal does not need a special tool if you purchase a quality aftermarket seal. Here is a thread showing how the aftermarket seals come with a plastic tool.
➕ up to 2010, 3.2 A/C bracket may need an alignment tool. Upon removal of the A/C bracket for the decoupler access, there are spacers for the mounting bolts and a spacer washer under the center of the bracket. You can get away without an alignment tool if you don't spin/turn the adjusting spacers, mark their position & the bracket position, and tape the spacers from moving while you do the rest of the service. If you do accidentally move/spin the spacers, then you need to find the tool 999-7262. Here is a thread on it. You can find this tool as aftermarket, or on ebay. I bought one off of Amazon (JM Auto Tools brand).
-Get the: 1) decoupler, 2) cover (might come with the decoupler), 3) seal, and 4) new bolt in case you strip it. Add the special pulley bolt tool.
- Special tool for removing the decoupler bolt
- Listing of the decoupler for reference and picture
- Ryan R's video on decoupler pulley (A/C side)
- Thread about the decoupler pulley and seal
Oil Selection
I've done tons of research and shared my work/experience on other posts. I suggest Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 (A3/B3, A3/B4) for its cold weather flow, high temp protection, and amount of zinc. The zinc can help prevent wear associated with 3.2 oil consumption. Also, use a good oil filter such as Mann, Mahle, or Volvo. I like to keep a 5,000-5,500 mile oil change interval instead of 7,500. Oil is cheap compared to engine work due to oil consumption caused by premature wear. I don't like conventional oil for this modern engine because conventional oil with use can get too thick on cold temp start-ups and too thin when hot. Too thick of an oil on cold temp start-up might bypass the oil filter because of the high oil pressure as well as take longer to reach the vital engine parts. A bad combination. Lastly, do not overfill the engine as the oil may go through the PCV.
❕ If you look at the threads with the oil analyses linked below, the synthetic 5W-30 oils (typically A1/B1, A5/B5 spec) shear down to a 20 weight by ~3k miles.
- Choosing an A3/B4 oil for your 3.2 (new)
- Extensive thread discussing oil and which to use in the 3.2
- Real-world results and used oil analyses 5W-30 weight oil (with a fresh quart shortly before the oil change) (new) vs Mobil 1 0W-40 (A3/B4) oil (new)
- Video is why you should use a synthetic, even if you have an old engine that previously used conventional
- 👍 Video analysis from a certified lubrication specialist of Mobil 1 FS 0W-40, why it does well in the 3.2 at preventing carbon build-up in piston rings that could lead to oil consumption (hint: it cleans well and its synthetic is a quality PAO blend) (new)
Oil consumption, P0420/P0430 code (new)
These two issues can be related. Oil consumption affects both variants of the 3.2 engines. The key factor is to use quality synthetic oil with shorter 5k mile oil change intervals. If your 3.2 has been strictly maintained at the dealership, this can cause the oil consumption issue due to the extended oil change intervals (oil breaks down and can lead to carbon buildup). Look at the used oil analyses listed in the "Oil Selection" section to see why the dealership/Volvo 7,500 oil change interval can cause issues (the 5W-30 oil also shears down, gets too thin).
- The Unofficial Guide to oil consumption and P0420/P0430 catalytic inefficient codes
- Liqui Moly engine flush video in Volvo 6cyl
- If you cannot resolve your P0420/P0430 issue with a cleaner/properly running engine, here is a thread showing what's involved in removing and installing the combined primary catalytic converters/exhaust manifolds
Alternator
This is a part that could fail, but it is not difficult to change. It is also known because the bolt for the drive gear can come loose on the READ side. If this decoupler seizes, it could cause the drive gear bolt to loosen, connected to the READ side (click for forum thread), causing a charging issue. Regarding trying to refresh an alternator, sometimes it makes more sense to change an entire alternator rather than trying to refresh it with a new decoupler and voltage regulator parts. The cost of those parts could equal 60%+ of a new alternator, and refreshing an old alternator would still have an old bearing. A new alternator should have a warranty as well (lifetime if from FCP). Here are videos to help guide changing it. If you have to change the alternator or have access, remove the decoupler's drive gear bolt (READ side) and add blue Loctite to prevent it from backing out. New intake manifold seals should be used and the Victor Reinz ones are affordable.
⚠This decoupler could be listed under the serpentine section in the parts lists and it has a cog gear as its pulley.
Videos for the alternator:
- Video showing why to change an old alternator and what happens when the alternator decoupler fails, it could loosen the drive gear bolt (new)
- Intake manifold removal for 3.2
- Volvo 3.2 alternator replacement (video also shows the alternator decoupler ~5:30 mark in the video, and the drive pulley/gear bolt ~4:00 mark)
- Alternator removal 3.2, drive gear bolt and info
Engine Mounts
Do them around 100k miles. Depending on driver history and driving style, you can go longer or shorter. All XC90 engine variants will need engine mounts. The 3.2 does not have the same type of upper torque mount style as the 2.5 or V8, but has one on the passenger side. If you hear a metallic vibrating noise, it could be your upper torque mount. Hutchinson brand is a great brand alternative to the original Volvo.
- Replace the 1) front, 2) rear, 3) upper passenger side torque, 4) lower passenger side, and 5) the transmission torque mount under the driver's front side.
- If worn-out engine mounts are left in place, allowing the engine to move and shift, this could lead to premature wear on the driveshaft, axle CVs, and older rusty exhausts.
PCV (a.k.a. oil separator)
Many many newer engines use an internal diaphragm for the PCV or crankcase ventilation. This part on top of the engine can cause a whine or vacuum sound and may cause an oil consumption or running issue. I also suggest a scheduled replacement around 100k miles. It is not if but when the diaphragm rubber will break (same in many other new engines across different makes). Get the entire unit either Volvo or OE FoMoCo brand or Land Rover. All the same, but the Volvo brand could be cheaper at times. Easy to change. A 10 min job.
❕ This part does not need to be whistling to be bad. Before it completely fails, or is contributing to oil consumption without noise (this oil can also go to the catalytic), it's a good idea to change it. The PCV is also known as an oil separator.
- Thread: failing PCV can dump oil into cylinder #6, can see on spark plug (new)
- 3.2 PCV removal video
Spark Plugs
I like to use original Volvo ones, but people (and I) have used Bosch. I think Denso is used for the later S5 engine (2011+). I don't trust other brands as far as it running smoothly in the engine. Change around 50k miles because the 3.2 likes to rev on downshifts. That extra use in upper rpms can increase spark plug wear.
Ignition Coils
These should last a long time. The 3.2 does not suffer from the same coil pack issues seen in the 2.5t. You can wait until one goes and then replace all 6 so there is a more equal spark between cylinders. Also, change all six because if one goes, the others might not be too far behind. If you want to change them on a scheduled timeframe, then 150k miles is a good mileage based on normal wear on the coils/boots (people do see them last past 200k miles, some have not). If your 3.2 has over 150k miles and you are planning a road trip across the country with kids, do the coils. These can stop your drive and might take days to source parts (depending on your location), worse if it's a weekend. Delphi coils from FCP should be marked FoMoCo and are OE coils. Post further down this thread about replacement coils.
Brake Vacuum Pump
The seal for the vacuum pump can leak oil. The remedy is an affordable kit. Not difficult to do and easy to check for the oil leaking. It can go at 60k miles or at 120k miles, not really mileage specific. Fix if leaking.
➕ There is a plastic coupling/connector connecting the brake vacuum hose to the vacuum pump. This important connector can break easily upon removal due to the plastic spring clip lock. Here is the replacement part number (30714933 ) and a thread about it.
Videos:
Fuel Pressure Sensor
This sensor will fail, do it around 100k-120k miles. This part is shared across engines and models for Volvo and is a known failure sensor indicated by a trouble code. Buy Bosch. There is less room to remove the holding screw than in a 2.5t. I used the same bit ratchet used for the water pump coupling and a flathead screwdriver wrapped in a towel to give very little side force to keep the ratchet straight (between the ratchet and valve cover hump). Another option is to purchase an "L" shaped torx set. It is vital to use the correct size torx so you don't strip the screw. Should be a tight fit and you can test the fit on a new screw (p/n 986201).
- Fuel pressure sensor location and replacement video (new)
- Amazon.com - Tool I used
- Amazon.com - Can't vouch for this tool set, but this style may also fit.
Fuel system cleaner, Fuel injection cleaning (new)
With the 3.2 engines getting older and you have already changed the fuel filter at 100k miles, the next thing to do for maintenance is a good modern fuel system cleaner. This will help with rust cleaning, the negative effects of ethanol in gas, and build-up in fuel injectors. You can do every other oil change. Some people do it before each of their oil changes so any contaminants that go into the oil are removed.
R.E.A.D
You do not want this problem, but if you hear metallic bearing noise around the serpentine area, then you may have a READ issue, but I haven't really heard of people having an issue recently. Personally, I think good oil and good oil change intervals can help with this area. Most of the 3.2s with these issues have already expired from the market. Here is info on what it takes to fix it.
- Scott's READ page with story, fix, and specialized tools (new)
- Servicing the decoupler and serpentine system could help prevent shock to the READ
Technical Bulletin (TJ)
This is if there is an oil consumption issue. Many still do not have it, including mine. It is helpful in what to look for, such as with reading the spark plugs.
http://australiancar.reviews/_pdfs/Volvo_Technical-Journal-24643_I6-oil-consumption_201204.pdf
Nice Chitown! This is sticky material!!!!!
2010 xc90 3.2 using Tapatalk
2010 xc90 3.2 using Tapatalk
As do I. Aggravating, though...I think that's just a coincidence.
Yes, it was done as part of the 150K service, which, by the way, was not outrageously expensive, IMHO: less than $3K including struts on all 4 corners.I haven't followed your story but have you changed the PCV yet?
If you are living in a cold zone I would avoid the Fram ultra oil filter XG10415. It may collapse. Mine did.
He might as well just go ahead and start his own Volvo XC maintenance and troubleshooting blog. The guy is a wealth of knowledge and information.Nice Chitown! This is sticky material!!!!!
2010 xc90 3.2 using Tapatalk
Thanks to all for adding to the thread! This has been informative!
Alternator:
Has anyone found a need to swap out the voltage regulator on the 180A alternator? They're ~$100 and come with new brushes. Looks like an easy swap.
Otherwise, it doesn't seem to make much sense to replace the decoupler pulley or rubber coupler preventatively. Rebuilt alternators come withe the pulley. That said a failed decoupler pulley here has the tendency to unscrew the dive pulley on the READ unit. Which is not a path I want to go down!
hanks!
-Ryan
Alternator:
Has anyone found a need to swap out the voltage regulator on the 180A alternator? They're ~$100 and come with new brushes. Looks like an easy swap.
Otherwise, it doesn't seem to make much sense to replace the decoupler pulley or rubber coupler preventatively. Rebuilt alternators come withe the pulley. That said a failed decoupler pulley here has the tendency to unscrew the dive pulley on the READ unit. Which is not a path I want to go down!
hanks!
-Ryan
Excellent summary of what needs looking after on the 3.2
Consider adding to your list the items shown below
The highest priority would be the the thermostat, because they fail after about 10 years (and the failed thermostat may result in failed coil packs)
For the XC90 you should have room to replace the thermostat without removing the intake manifold
Link showing what needs to be done for the LR2 and S80 http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32245.html
High Mileage Maintenance items for 3.2
2. Brake fluid flushed (every 3 years)
3. Coolant replaced every 5 years (failure is oil or ATF heat exchanger internal leaks)
4. AWD Rear differential oil change (every 50,000 miles) - I added a magnetic drain plug (LR2 and S80 V8 seem to be more susceptible to pinion bearing failure due to lack of maintenance)
5. ATF fluid flushed - search for Gibbons method (note: I used the modified Gibbons method)
6. Power steering fluid and reservoir replaced due to noisy heavy steering
8. AWD BOT Gear oil for power Transfer unit (for mine I drilled a drain hole)
11. AWD Haldex fluid and filter - I used genuine Volvo parts for this (it was cheaper than Land Rover)
Typical repairs for high mileage 3.2
A) Thermostat - replaced mine at 10 years (also replaced two coolant hoses)
G) Radiator Fan
I) Anti-Drain back valve in oil canister housing failure
Link with the complete list
http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32504.html
Take care
Paul
Consider adding to your list the items shown below
The highest priority would be the the thermostat, because they fail after about 10 years (and the failed thermostat may result in failed coil packs)
For the XC90 you should have room to replace the thermostat without removing the intake manifold
Link showing what needs to be done for the LR2 and S80 http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32245.html
High Mileage Maintenance items for 3.2
2. Brake fluid flushed (every 3 years)
3. Coolant replaced every 5 years (failure is oil or ATF heat exchanger internal leaks)
4. AWD Rear differential oil change (every 50,000 miles) - I added a magnetic drain plug (LR2 and S80 V8 seem to be more susceptible to pinion bearing failure due to lack of maintenance)
5. ATF fluid flushed - search for Gibbons method (note: I used the modified Gibbons method)
6. Power steering fluid and reservoir replaced due to noisy heavy steering
8. AWD BOT Gear oil for power Transfer unit (for mine I drilled a drain hole)
11. AWD Haldex fluid and filter - I used genuine Volvo parts for this (it was cheaper than Land Rover)
Typical repairs for high mileage 3.2
A) Thermostat - replaced mine at 10 years (also replaced two coolant hoses)
G) Radiator Fan
I) Anti-Drain back valve in oil canister housing failure
Link with the complete list
http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32504.html
Take care
Paul
I just read your post more carefully and both of you recommended changing the ThermostatThe highest priority would be the the thermostat, because they fail after about 10 years (and the failed thermostat may result in failed coil packs)
For the XC90 you should have room to replace the thermostat without removing the intake manifold
Take care
Paul
Link for Bevel Gear Failure
Note: Bevel gear = PTU (power transfer unit)
The pinion bearing for the gear can fail as well as the coupling.
PTU Pinion Bearing failure and R&R
http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic29989.html?highlight=transfer+diff
Note: Bevel gear = PTU (power transfer unit)
The pinion bearing for the gear can fail as well as the coupling.
PTU Pinion Bearing failure and R&R
http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic29989.html?highlight=transfer+diff
Also this part failed on both of my 3.2's
I) Anti-Drain back valve in oil canister housing failure
http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33006.html
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr2-35/anti-drain-back-valve-lr2-3-2-liter-six-cylinder-78803/
Maybe I am just unlucky
The symptom of the failure is an oil pressure warning light
I) Anti-Drain back valve in oil canister housing failure
http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33006.html
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr2-35/anti-drain-back-valve-lr2-3-2-liter-six-cylinder-78803/
Maybe I am just unlucky
The symptom of the failure is an oil pressure warning light
Adding more 3.2 specific items. With the long 3.2 engine run, there are 2 variants of the Aisin 6spd transmission that mates up. They can last with good fluid changes. For maintenance, the fluid should be changed initially around 75-80k miles (depending on your driving style and city/hwy mix) and around 20-40k miles thereafter, depending on your driving style and how long you want to keep the transmission running well. Change it sooner if you do a lot of city driving or to simply keep it in tip-top shape. The 3.2 changes gears a lot to get to its power band as needed, so my recommended change intervals may be different than in a V8 or 2.5t which have lower rpm torque. JWS 3324 fluid used in the Gen 2 may be a synthetic blend oil and possible it can last an extra 10k miles in my suggested change intervals compared to JWS 3309 (but don't take my word for it). The MSDS says it is made from mineral oil and has a mixture for its base stock https://www.wpdusa.com/media/rWM3StYqM0KZIMpWqELD6Q2/download/MSDS-English-AISIN-AFT-0WS.jpg.
https://forums.swedespeed.com/showt...-in-owner-s-manual-JWS-3309-vs-AW-1-(JWS-3324) - Here is some discussion on the forum about fluids
TF-80SC Model year -10 Generation 1
Fluid is JWS 3309
1L p/n 1161 540
4L p/n 1161 640
TF-80SC Model year 11- Generation 2 (From Chassis 568001- & Up (last6 Digits of VIN) according to FCP)
Fluid is JWS 3324
1L p/n 31256774
4L p/n 31256775
Updated parts in Gen. 2 from VIDA:
Tapered bearings - To reduce the inner friction losses, some of the tapered bearings now have bigger diameter and shorter length of bearing rollers. This change gives fewer rollers and thus less friction.
Torque converter - To reduce noise/sound when locking at lower engine rpms, the LTD (Long Travel Damper) has been provided with an inner circle of damping springs
TCM (Transmission Control Module) - TCM has the same hardware as before but the software has been changed.
Solenoids - Faster shifting has been achieved by making all linear solenoids that control the clutch systems more effective. This change has been achieved by removing the hydraulic part of the solenoids. Further, the magnetic flow in the solenoid has been increased and gap between thrust piston and magnetic coil has been reduced to increase power.
Seal rings - New seal rings with smaller sealing surface contributes to reducing the inner friction. By tapering the seal, the sealing surface is reduced as is the pressure on the sealing surface.
Friction pads - The new friction pads on the discs reduce the impact of drag losses between the friction pads. This has been achieved by optimizing the oil flow channels between the friction surfaces.
I personally use the Mobil 3309 ATF fluid with good results in my 2008. This is a tried and tested fluid by many many Volvo owners. Others have used Toyota brand Type T-IV, Aisin, and Idemitsu (TLS). Hopefully, someone else can chime in on their experience with the JWS 3324 (Type WS) variants of fluid in their 2011+ 3.2. I also like to do the oil cooler line method using 12qts of fluid. I bought the hose that goes into the radiator from Home Depot. Forgot the size hose, but it has a thicker wall so I heat the end with a heat gun first so it is pliable enough to stuff into the (dried) radiator hole. After it cools, it stays in place until it's time to yank it out.
Tip: The fill plug can be a bear to remove. Use good a good quality Torx socket and double check the correct torx size is tight in the plug so it does not strip. (Ex. sometimes a T50 can seem to fit when it should be T55.) One way to help prevent over tightening is to use a new o-ring seal (p/n 30735186) each time you unscrew the fill plug.
https://forums.swedespeed.com/showt...-fluid-flush&p=2249639&viewfull=1#post2249639 - Excellent write-up for the transmission fluid change.
http://www.timthurber.com/volvo-xc90-3-2-transmission-flush-drainfill-tf-80sc-6-speed/ - Another great write-up
- The drain and refill method
https://forums.swedespeed.com/showt...-in-owner-s-manual-JWS-3309-vs-AW-1-(JWS-3324) - Here is some discussion on the forum about fluids
TF-80SC Model year -10 Generation 1
Fluid is JWS 3309
1L p/n 1161 540
4L p/n 1161 640
TF-80SC Model year 11- Generation 2 (From Chassis 568001- & Up (last6 Digits of VIN) according to FCP)
Fluid is JWS 3324
1L p/n 31256774
4L p/n 31256775
Updated parts in Gen. 2 from VIDA:
Tapered bearings - To reduce the inner friction losses, some of the tapered bearings now have bigger diameter and shorter length of bearing rollers. This change gives fewer rollers and thus less friction.
Torque converter - To reduce noise/sound when locking at lower engine rpms, the LTD (Long Travel Damper) has been provided with an inner circle of damping springs
TCM (Transmission Control Module) - TCM has the same hardware as before but the software has been changed.
Solenoids - Faster shifting has been achieved by making all linear solenoids that control the clutch systems more effective. This change has been achieved by removing the hydraulic part of the solenoids. Further, the magnetic flow in the solenoid has been increased and gap between thrust piston and magnetic coil has been reduced to increase power.
Seal rings - New seal rings with smaller sealing surface contributes to reducing the inner friction. By tapering the seal, the sealing surface is reduced as is the pressure on the sealing surface.
Friction pads - The new friction pads on the discs reduce the impact of drag losses between the friction pads. This has been achieved by optimizing the oil flow channels between the friction surfaces.
I personally use the Mobil 3309 ATF fluid with good results in my 2008. This is a tried and tested fluid by many many Volvo owners. Others have used Toyota brand Type T-IV, Aisin, and Idemitsu (TLS). Hopefully, someone else can chime in on their experience with the JWS 3324 (Type WS) variants of fluid in their 2011+ 3.2. I also like to do the oil cooler line method using 12qts of fluid. I bought the hose that goes into the radiator from Home Depot. Forgot the size hose, but it has a thicker wall so I heat the end with a heat gun first so it is pliable enough to stuff into the (dried) radiator hole. After it cools, it stays in place until it's time to yank it out.
Tip: The fill plug can be a bear to remove. Use good a good quality Torx socket and double check the correct torx size is tight in the plug so it does not strip. (Ex. sometimes a T50 can seem to fit when it should be T55.) One way to help prevent over tightening is to use a new o-ring seal (p/n 30735186) each time you unscrew the fill plug.
https://forums.swedespeed.com/showt...-fluid-flush&p=2249639&viewfull=1#post2249639 - Excellent write-up for the transmission fluid change.
http://www.timthurber.com/volvo-xc90-3-2-transmission-flush-drainfill-tf-80sc-6-speed/ - Another great write-up
This thread is an example why Swedespeed is the best Volvo forum!!
2010 xc90 3.2 using Tapatalk
2010 xc90 3.2 using Tapatalk
Thanks! I thought about doing a blog, but the pictures and formatting involved take too much time. Others have done a great job of taking pics and videos. I just fill in where I can. This is a good 3.2 summary thread and hopefully these posts help you guys.He might as well just go ahead and start his own Volvo XC maintenance and troubleshooting blog. The guy is a wealth of knowledge and information.
Sticky! Sticky!Thanks! I thought about doing a blog, but the pictures and formatting involved take too much time. Others have done a great job of taking pics and videos. I just fill in where I can. This is a good 3.2 summary thread and hopefully these posts help you guys.
2010 xc90 3.2 using Tapatalk
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