[guitarrocker98]

I am going to be buying a new valve body first. Try that and if thats not the issue, I will purchase a used transmission swap the valve bodies and should be good as new. In case its the Torque Converter, or something else.

 

[inteller]

I am going to be buying a new valve body first. Try that and if thats not the issue, I will purchase a used transmission swap the valve bodies and should be good as new. In case its the Torque Converter, or something else.

It's never the torque convertor.

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[guitarrocker98]

It's never the torque convertor.

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Let me ask this... I know that I have PUSHED the transmission past when it likely should have been fixed (barely) The Car literally drives fine once in HIGHER RPM's. It barely moves until 2-3k RPM. then runs, BUT it is jumpy in the RPM's. I am starting with the valve body because I think its giving inconsistent amounts of fluid/signals. BUT if its been pushed PAST its limit couldn't the torque converter be shot/burnt?

 

[guitarrocker98]

There is a new revelation... I was looking under the car and found a small pool of oil, but there is transmission fluid leaking. It looks like it is coming out of the drain plug..... BUT there is also grease/oil on the exhaust and undercarriage of the car. My oil levels are just fine. I have checked a few times. Therefore I think I have a ATF leak. May be minor but it is DEFINATLY there. Any advice? I punched 16 quarts of OEM Volvo tranny fluid, a new drain tube and plug. New seals etc. I also grabbed a new valve body with the Sonax upgrade. Any other ideas?

 

[billr99]

There is a new revelation... I was looking under the car and found a small pool of oil, but there is transmission fluid leaking. It looks like it is coming out of the drain plug..... BUT there is also grease/oil on the exhaust and undercarriage of the car. My oil levels are just fine. I have checked a few times. Therefore I think I have a ATF leak. May be minor but it is DEFINATLY there. Any advice? I punched 16 quarts of OEM Volvo tranny fluid, a new drain tube and plug. New seals etc. I also grabbed a new valve body with the Sonax upgrade. Any other ideas?

Just a possibility, but was a new drain plug seal used the last time the AT drain plug was pulled? Those things can really leak if they have become compressed and then re-used. Then, of course, that leaked ATF streams aft along the undertray onto the body pan and it doesn't take much ATF to creak a mess.

Good Luck,

Bill

 

[inteller]

Just a possibility, but was a new drain plug seal used the last time the AT drain plug was pulled? Those things can really leak if they have become compressed and then re-used. Then, of course, that leaked ATF streams aft along the undertray onto the body pan and it doesn't take much ATF to creak a mess.

Good Luck,

Bill

There is no undertray on an R, or at least there shouldn't be.

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[billr99]

There is a new revelation... I was looking under the car and found a small pool of oil, but there is transmission fluid leaking. It looks like it is coming out of the drain plug..... BUT there is also grease/oil on the exhaust and undercarriage of the car. My oil levels are just fine. I have checked a few times. Therefore I think I have a ATF leak. May be minor but it is DEFINATLY there. Any advice? I punched 16 quarts of OEM Volvo tranny fluid, a new drain tube and plug. New seals etc. I also grabbed a new valve body with the Sonax upgrade. Any other ideas?

Just a possibility, but was the AT drain plug seal replaced the last time the plug was pulled? If the seal has become compressed, then re-used; they can really leak. Then, of course, that leaked fluid runs aft along the undertray to the body pan. Doesn't take much ATF to create a real mess.

Good Luck,

Bill

 

[djunglew]

" BUT there is also grease/oil on the exhaust and undercarriage of the car."

Check the gasket under the oil fill cap.

 

[Edgaras]

Replaced VB to new one. Volvo S80 3.2 AWD 2007 because when hot it started banging/shifting flare from 2-3 and hard bangs when in R.
Service said that they installed original new VB (Fluid is TITAN 4400 they said that AISIN-WARNER recommends this). And they said that there is no updated or new model VB to this model. And official volvo dealer updated AT software because there was an update.

I have question now. How gearbox should shift?
Now mine when cold It feels like when it should shift it feels like car holds gear a bit and releases. only in 2-3-4 (that release feels like someone pushes car from behind a bit )
When car is warmed it feels like it shift much faster with smaller delays.
I physically feel when gearbox shifts from 1-2-3-4 (sometimes from 3-4) but when shifting from (sometimes from 3-4) 4-5-6 I feel nothing just smooth shifting.
Sometimes from 2-3-4 feels shudder... (It feels Rarely)

Is it normal to shift like that? I never drove other cars with AT. There is no any shifting flares or banging just shifting with delays a bit.
I really don't know how it should shift it feels like normal to me after issues I had with old VB.

I think I have bad engine mount in passenger side because when at stop in D or R I feel vibration when changing to N, or P it disappears.

With new VB i drove about 1000 km. My car is now at 320k km.

 

[inteller]

Replaced VB to new one. Volvo S80 3.2 AWD 2007 because when hot it started banging/shifting flare from 2-3 and hard bangs when in R.
Service said that they installed original new VB (Fluid is TITAN 4400 they said that AISIN-WARNER recommends this). And they said that there is no updated or new model VB to this model. And official volvo dealer updated AT software because there was an update.

I have question now. How gearbox should shift?
Now mine when cold It feels like when it should shift it feels like car holds gear a bit and releases. only in 2-3-4 (that release feels like someone pushes car from behind a bit )
When car is warmed it feels like it shift much faster with smaller delays.
I physically feel when gearbox shifts from 1-2-3-4 (sometimes from 3-4) but when shifting from (sometimes from 3-4) 4-5-6 I feel nothing just smooth shifting.
Sometimes from 2-3-4 feels shudder... (It feels Rarely)

Is it normal to shift like that? I never drove other cars with AT. There is no any shifting flares or banging just shifting with delays a bit.
I really don't know how it should shift it feels like normal to me after issues I had with old VB.

I think I have bad engine mount in passenger side because when at stop in D or R I feel vibration when changing to N, or P it disappears.

With new VB i drove about 1000 km. My car is now at 320k km.

It holds the rpms when cold to get the fluid up to temp.

They also clear out adaptations when they change the VB. The shift issues you feel now should smooth out over time.

Please tell me you didn't pay the dealer to do that job.

Sent from my obamaphone.

 

[Edgaras]

I paid only for software update to the dealer (30eur)
VB was replaced not in official dealer service. It was replaced in other service which specializes with AT and yes adaptations were reset.
Driving few km after replace it was not what I expected but after 500km it was much better.
So there is no limit when adaptation process stops ?

 

[inteller]

I paid only for software update to the dealer (30eur)
VB was replaced not in official dealer service. It was replaced in other service which specializes with AT and yes adaptations were reset.
Driving few km after replace it was not what I expected but after 500km it was much better.
So there is no limit when adaptation process stops ?

No.

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[aznatama]

Is there any way to ACCELERATE wear on the vb?

I have occasional shift flares that I'm 99% sure is due to the vb even after I did a full flush. However, the transmission shop can't seem to replicate the problem, and neither can I. It only occurs sparingly and randomly.

Reason for a desire to accelerate the wear is so I can more easily replicate the problem and my shop can fix it before warranty expires.

Thanks.

 

[R-Pow3R3d]

Is there any way to ACCELERATE wear on the vb?

I have occasional shift flares that I'm 99% sure is due to the vb even after I did a full flush. However, the transmission shop can't seem to replicate the problem, and neither can I. It only occurs sparingly and randomly.

Reason for a desire to accelerate the wear is so I can more easily replicate the problem and my shop can fix it before warranty expires.

Thanks.

Likely happens more when it's hot.

 

[D-man9000]

I've got 06H for my S80 V8. I've got slippage that happens while it's cruising in gear at low engine load.

I'm figuring it's the valve body. A flush got me 8 months of perfectly fine functioning transmission, though.

Does anyone have any experience with having a VB done in a P3?

 

[MFs60r]

So I'm Curious, does no one diagnose the pressure ports and make solenoid pressure adjustments before just throwing in the "it's your valve body, replace it" assumption? If I came on here and posted that I was still getting 2-3 flare after completely rebuilding my trans I would have heard that quote from a bunch of people. I made a few C3 solenoid adjustments and my symptoms were cleared up. I understand there are problem valvebodys, that's a fact, but to take the cover off and make a small adjustment on the pressure take me a half hour from pulling the pan to putting the pan back on. Granted I have a fantastic pan gasket, it just surprises me.

 

[aznatama]

So I'm Curious, does no one diagnose the pressure ports and make solenoid pressure adjustments before just throwing in the "it's your valve body, replace it" assumption? If I came on here and posted that I was still getting 2-3 flare after completely rebuilding my trans I would have heard that quote from a bunch of people. I made a few C1 solenoid adjustments and my symptoms were cleared up. I understand there are problem valvebodys, that's a fact, but to take the cover off and make a small adjustment on the pressure take me a half hour from pulling the pan to putting the pan back on. Granted I have a fantastic pan gasket, it just surprises me.

If it worked for 100k miles, why would the solenoid pressure adjustment suddenly become out of spec? I thought the adjustments were only for initial install and not really meant to be adjusted afterwards?

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[MFs60r]

If it worked for 100k miles, why would the solenoid pressure adjustment suddenly become out of spec? I thought the adjustments were only for initial install and not really meant to be adjusted afterwards?

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I guess I was just genuinely curious. If I had gone with the advice of other members about replacing my valvebody when I originally started having issues Id be out over $800 (if its that cheap for a VB) and still would have had to rebuild and reseal my trans. That being said I may have been a special case. But Sonnax and Aisin have instructions for adjusting solenoid pressure in the event of flares, bumps, delays. I would like to think the folks that build these transmissions did it for a reason.

Sonnax: There are several reasons why you may need to adjust a clutch control valve:

•Clutch pack clearance may be different than OE. Always check thickness of replacement steels and frictions.
•Bonded pistons may be worn, allowing clutch pressure to leak.
•Sealing rings may not be sealing correctly.
•Slight wear in the valve body.

 

[Austin V70R]

Matt - good job by you! Makes total sense... I wonder how the community gets a copy of the C1 adjustment process to understand details of the adjustment?
I’ve heard of shops adding a bung & plug to the oil pan to enable external adjustment


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[Austin V70R]

BTW - I chose to rebuild my VB with a Transgo kit and it solved my issues, but it still doesn’t shift as crisp as 80K miles ago. I’m going to try the C1 solenoid adjustment and suspect it will restore performance.

Thanks again for your input.


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