[agoatnamedsally]

have you considered the level 10 rebuild??
It’s quite a robust setup and the shifting is noticeably better with the geartronic after their valve body upgrade.
You can get their rebuild kit and valve body for about 1k and have a shop or yourself do the rebuild …or send in yours as core and pay $3-4k

Not really in my budget time-wise or financially, unfortunately.

Planning to find a FWD auto trans with low mileage after talking to Rich aka Moosetech and do the swap myself on my friend's lift.

He said I should also triple check that the tip of the axle didn't break off and drain the trans fluid just to be sure it's the transmission, but I feel pretty confident it is.

The car is parked in front of my place on the street, so not really ideal to get it on ramps/jackstands to drain the fluid...

Really just not ideal all around, but it's all part of the process, I suppose...

 

[agoatnamedsally]

Oh man, this sucks!

Did this happen suddenly or you already were noticing some issues? Also, you heard worse grinding noise once the car was park, completely stopped and with the engine idling? If so, that's weird. Usually clutch packs are the first thing to go but shouldn't make loud griding noises, much less in park.

How many miles does it have?

Did you check the transmission fluid level? there's a specific procedure of how to do it. How long ago since time you changed it?

I had a couple times on my S40 where the fluid level was waaay too low, the car would drive fine (I heard a couple grinding noises but it stopped as soon the car was stationary). And if I did a hard turn or hard brake, it would go like to neutral, and after a bit it re engaged gear violently. As soon I topped up the trans fluid, all the symptoms went away. I still have to fix that damn valve body cover leak though....

The Level10 trans rebuild and upgrades definitely sounds interesting. But seems like you are 100% committed to the manual swap.

I know man, pretty gutted because I'm not in a place to devote myself to the AWD/manual swap, but this is kind of the perfect reason to...

112k miles, hadn't checked the trans fluid (none drained when changing the axle last month), but planned on doing the fluid refresh soon (and have 2 jugs).

Definitely heard some whining at points, but thought it was my bad axle or engine noise. No real lead up other than the grinding that I heard over the music in 2nd gear today when it fully let go.

Turned the car back on and it worked limping it in Drive, but went back to grinding the last block or so when I changed to Geartronic and went into 2nd and then 3rd

 

[precisionguesswork]

I know man, pretty gutted because I'm not in a place to devote myself to the AWD/manual swap, but this is kind of the perfect reason to...

112k miles, hadn't checked the trans fluid (none drained when changing the axle last month), but planned on doing the fluid refresh soon (and have 2 jugs).

Definitely heard some whining at points, but thought it was my bad axle or engine noise. No real lead up other than the grinding that I heard over the music in 2nd gear today when it fully let go.

Turned the car back on and it worked limping it in Drive, but went back to grinding the last block or so when I changed to Geartronic and went into 2nd and then 3rd

Check fluid level and top up if necessary. Definitely not going to make matters worse….

 

[thedonochron]

Not really in my budget time-wise or financially, unfortunately.

Planning to find a FWD auto trans with low mileage after talking to Rich aka Moosetech and do the swap myself on my friend's lift.

He said I should also triple check that the tip of the axle didn't break off and drain the trans fluid just to be sure it's the transmission, but I feel pretty confident it is.

The car is parked in front of my place on the street, so not really ideal to get it on ramps/jackstands to drain the fluid...

Really just not ideal all around, but it's all part of the process, I suppose...

I’m sorry the transmission reaper came a calling.
Definitely understand wanting to find another auto and hit the pavement.
Maybe if you don’t have to use your old one as a core you can hold on to the broken one and keep it as a back burner type of project (OEM or performance rebuild)

 

[coelcanth]

where are you located ? there's an S40 roller in the classifieds from NH or VT and also saw this one in MA today seems like a fair deal for a drivable parts car

Log into Facebook

Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.

www.facebook.com

 

[agoatnamedsally]

I'm in Virginia - been dealing with nagging shoulder pain and haven't been able to get under the car and drain/check the ATF...

Did start the car today and let it idle for 5 or so minutes - no grinding/warning lights/issues otherwise.

Really debating my options;

Keeping the AW55/FWD:
-Cheapest option: $300 for a 2009 AW55 with 131k miles and NO WARRANTY, but literally down the street
-Erie Vovo: $975 shipped for 70k mile AW55 with lifetime parts warranty
-Level 10: Quoted $6k after talking to me (super nice people) for a "fully rebuilt trans good for 500 HP" - never got the itemized bill they said they'd email, though

M66 FWD/AWD Swap:
Would probably need to source a running donor (like above) and plan to replace most bushings and add a LSD (if M66) - also reached out to Hilton about updating my Stage 2+ tune to adapt to that transmission/drivetrain setup to determine costs...

Any other ideas, feel free to drop them here. Really sad I'm missing prime boost weather and really want to get it back on the road...

 

[precisionguesswork]

I'm in Virginia - been dealing with nagging shoulder pain and haven't been able to get under the car and drain/check the ATF...

Did start the car today and let it idle for 5 or so minutes - no grinding/warning lights/issues otherwise.

Really debating my options;

Keeping the AW55/FWD:
-Cheapest option: $300 for a 2009 AW55 with 131k miles and NO WARRANTY, but literally down the street
-Erie Vovo: $975 shipped for 70k mile AW55 with lifetime parts warranty
-Level 10: Quoted $6k after talking to me (super nice people) for a "fully rebuilt trans good for 500 HP" - never got the itemized bill they said they'd email, though

M66 FWD/AWD Swap:
Would probably need to source a running donor (like above) and plan to replace most bushings and add a LSD (if M66) - also reached out to Hilton about updating my Stage 2+ tune to adapt to that transmission/drivetrain setup to determine costs...

Any other ideas, feel free to drop them here. Really sad I'm missing prime boost weather and really want to get it back on the road...

6k seams steep. 3500 maybe. Id go with ghe 950 option

 

[Facusan]

Before buying anything, you have to check the ATF and confirm the transmission is shot. Hopefully it's just really low on fluid and still has some miles left, enough to drive it gently while you gather the parts for the M66 conversion. Which doesn't cost only $850-1000. It's more likely in the $4.5-5k range ($850 M66 kit, ~$1.3k for the LSD, another $1.2k for a single mass flywheel and upgraded clutch, ~$800 for the ECU and CEM flashing, and around $200 or maybe slightly more in misc stuff like trans oil, misc hardware, etc. And I didn't include the freight cost of the M66 kit).

If your transmission is effectively shot, and you need the car running ASAP, I would say the $300 one is definitely tempting, (obviously, you'll have to do your due diligence with it). I see no point on the $950, and not even any warranties, because you know 100% the end goal is M66 swap, so anything that's good enough to last 10-20k miles at least should suffice while you prepare for the manual swap.

 

[agoatnamedsally]

Checking the ATF this weekend, hopefully. Been sidelined with a shoulder injury and need a way to measure the fluid that comes out and confirm the hose I have will fit over the ATF fill pipe/work with my funnel.

I am seriously considering a M66 swap - Hilton just pointed me to their site that shows $850 for the AW55 to M66 swap, but need to confirm if my Stage 2+ tune will transfer for free...

If I go that route, I'm debating between buying the M66 swap kit here or a running/driving M66 FWD donor and parting/selling the remainder afterwards...

Ideally, I would get a Quaife LSD (which could also help with worn splines on older transmissions) or a M66 that was already built with one to further justify the swap.

Besides the trans itself and the tune (only Hilton seems to offer a M66 swap option), I've been reading this thread and think I'll need to also get/figure out;
-Axles
-Pedal box
-Clutch master cylinder
-Shifter/assembly/cables
-Replace octopus hose/cap off trans cooler/coolant side of Focus RS oil cooler
-M66 Refresh/Single Mass Kit
-Transmission mounts?

Anything else I'm missing? Pretty daunting either way, but am trying to look at this as an opportunity to do something I probably wouldn't have otherwise...

 

[precisionguesswork]

Checking the ATF this weekend, hopefully. Been sidelined with a shoulder injury and need a way to measure the fluid that comes out and confirm the hose I have will fit over the ATF fill pipe/work with my funnel.

I am seriously considering a M66 swap - Hilton just pointed me to their site that shows $850 for the AW55 to M66 swap, but need to confirm if my Stage 2+ tune will transfer for free...

If I go that route, I'm debating between buying the M66 swap kit here or a running/driving M66 FWD donor and parting/selling the remainder afterwards...

Ideally, I would get a Quaife LSD (which could also help with worn splines on older transmissions) or a M66 that was already built with one to further justify the swap.

Besides the trans itself and the tune (only Hilton seems to offer a M66 swap option), I've been reading this thread and think I'll need to also get/figure out;
-Axles
-Pedal box
-Clutch master cylinder
-Shifter/assembly/cables
-Replace octopus hose/cap off trans cooler/coolant side of Focus RS oil cooler
-M66 Refresh/Single Mass Kit
-Transmission mounts?

Anything else I'm missing? Pretty daunting either way, but am trying to look at this as an opportunity to do something I probably wouldn't have otherwise...

These funnels are nice for this job

drain the trans fluid through a conical coffee filter (white) to see if there are any metal bits etc

 

[agoatnamedsally]

Drained the fluid today - doesn't look great:

Under 4 L came out, some flakes but no big chunks of metal - I poured an entire 4L jug of OEM Volvo ATF in using a funnel and hose concoction I whipped up.

Buttoned everything up and drove around the block in Drive - everything felt/seemed good until I got to the last turn and the same symptoms - grinding/free revving in 2/3/Park...

Confirming what I pretty much already knew, but now the M66 swap from the forums is gone and I'm at a bit of a loss... Don't want to spend the time/effort/thousands of dollars to replace what I already have when I'd rather make the jump to AWD and/or M66. I also don't want to commit to redoing my entire exhaust/suspension with the AWD swap, though...

In brighter news, some heavy hitters at C&C today:

 

[V50_M66]

have you considered the level 10 rebuild??
It’s quite a robust setup and the shifting is noticeably better with the geartronic after their valve body upgrade.
You can get their rebuild kit and valve body for about 1k and have a shop or yourself do the rebuild …or send in yours as core and pay $3-4k

The level10 rebuild sucks - they don’t last. New GM valve body is the way to go if keeping it auto, but this failure doesn’t seem like valve body to me. Definitely needs a full trans. In this case it seems a manual swap is the way to go.

 

[thedonochron]

Sorry it’s been some bad news

I wish you luck with the m66 swap
Fortunately it’s a well documented process so there’s tons of info.

should be a fun swap and you’ll thank the AW for the shove in the right direction haha

 

[thedonochron]

The level10 rebuild sucks - they don’t last. New GM valve body is the way to go if keeping it auto, but this failure doesn’t seem like valve body to me. Definitely needs a full trans. In this case it seems a manual swap is the way to go.

Did you have personal experiences with them ? Did Pat ever diagnose the issues you’re speaking of ?
I only ask because I’ve used them for numerous transmissions with cars in the 5-800whp range and not one of them ever failed after numerous hard passes and abuse. 2 of those units outlived the overbuilt motors in the vehicles they were put in