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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've debated chronicling my 3+ year ownership of my 2011 C30 on Swedespeed for awhile and finally decided to just do it.

The Basics:

-2011 C30 T5 with ~89k miles
-2nd owner
-Timing belt/water pump/cam seals done around 70k (2ish years ago)

Upgrades:

-5 18x8 Midirs off a C70 (I run a full sized spare in the trunk. Michelin Pilot A/S 3+ tires all around) for all season use
- 5 18x8 O.Z. Racing Superturismo GT wheels on Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires for summer
-E Code Headlights with leveling system
-4 Pot Wilwood front Brake Kit (Elevate stainless lines, Elevate/Wilwood pads, and Brembo rotors)
-do88 Big Pack intercooler/piping kit
-do88 Turbo Inlet Pipe
-JBR .250 Tru-Torsion Rear Sway Bar/Meyle Endlinks (off a MS3 autocross car, currently on the softest setting, which is more than stiff enough for daily "spirited" driving)
-Llumar Pinnacle 50 Ceramic Tint all around
-OEM Volvo Aluminum Skid Plate
-Airtec Aluminum Coolant Reservoir

Pending:

-Nordic Oak Bits (waiting on supplies before staining/semi gloss coating - will post pictures after installing)
-B16 Coilovers and Massive Speed camber arms (will probably also refresh LCAs and mounts around the same time)
-Rear Frakenbrake Upgrade (have the brackets, fluid, and rear Elevate stainless lines, just need pads, rotors, and some high temp black paint for the caliper while it's out)

Plans/Dreams:

-MSS Rear Camber Arms and Volvo OEM skidplate (necessary before even installing the B16s)
-C70 Steering Wheel (pretty much an R Design wheel without the R Design badge)

-RS Oil cooler
-Spark Plugs/Coils
-do88 intake/turbo pipe
-Eight8 Fab Downpipe/Elevate GT Exhaust/Hilton 2(+) Tune
-Trans cooler
-Seat Reupholster/Buckets?
-Big turbo/AWD/sequential trans

Anyways, here is an updated picture from the last month or so:
Car Wheel Land vehicle Tire Vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Love the color! I just picked up a face-lift C30 and didn't like the amber in the headlights. Do you have a link to them by any chance?
Thanks, Flamenco Red Metallic (702), pretty rare option and it looks great in different lights.

The headlights themselves I bought off a guy who sold his C30 and kept the US spec lights to swap back at that time. There was also a pair listed on the Swedespeed classifieds recently, but I believe they sold.

Edit:
Pretty sure this is them though: Headlight left H7 32206150 (1038700)

The other side is sold out, unfortunately...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hm I might do this instead of restore mine.

Did you have factory xenon? Do you know if it's just plug and play?
No, I have HIDs. They are plug and play, except I believe the bulbs themselves are different from the US spec (but readily available).

I opened up my US spec headlights that were super pitted/hazed to refinish them and wasn't happy with how they looked afterwards... I definitely don't have any regrets going with E Codes, they completely change the look of the car.
 

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Ah I found the xenons on that site, about $500 a pop so I'll probably just refinish mine :D

I've been thinking about starting a thread for mine and I think you've inspired me. I bought it (from a fellow forum member) already pretty heavily modified, but I am going to be doing some work on it next weekend. Preventative stuff like belts and hoses but also adding a do88 intercooler and ipd skid plate.

I see you're looking at maybe doing a reupholster. The PO had new seat covers installed and they look fantastic. I'll have to dig up the invoice and send you a link to where he got them from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah, Xenons are always ridiculous price-wise...

The do88 intercooler and piping kit is a must have if you live anywhere relatively hot. It makes a huge difference with reducing turbo lag and giving you access to solid power through the entire rev range (even in hot temps). I still maintain that a bigger rear sway bar and do88 intercooler are the first things anyone should do to a C30.

Definitely let me know if you can find the invoice. Were that Katzkins or something else?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I decided today was a nice day for a drive through some windy, well paved roads and, since it was about 10 degrees coolers than the past few weeks, I decided to drive A/C off and windows/sunroof open.

After about a mile or so, I threw the shifter into the "manual" mode and downshifted to 3rd gear and left it there for a couple turns. Very quickly, I got a bucking/surging sensation that I've experienced before on the interstate (has happened a couple times when driving 70-80 mph and with just a feather of consistent throttle to stay at speed and power seems to cut momentarily a couple times in succession- no CELs/sounds though and drives fine after) and looked down and saw "Engine Service Urgent" and the dreaded red triangle... I immediately slowed down, didn't hear/feel anything out of the ordinary and limped it 1/4 miles to the next pull off spot and cut the engine.

Popped the hood, coolant and oil are good (no leaks), and actually noticed that I may already have the upgraded Behr RS oil cooler (if anyone would like to confirm my suspicion):
Automotive tire Hood Automotive design Motor vehicle Synthetic rubber


The other good news is that, after reading some posts on the C30 FB group, it seems my symptoms potentially point to a bad fuel pressure sensor? For $40, I ordered one from FCP, along with a Liqui Moly oil change kit.

I couldn't see anything out of place in the engine bay/under the car, so I started the car after about 30 minutes (fired right up but still had the warning light/message, no CEL though) and limped home (below 2k RPM) and still didn't hear/feel anything unusual. I will check the codes with my VIDA2GO tomorrow morning before work and update then.

Any thoughts? My original prognosis after the isolated issues on a couple road trips in the past 6 months made me think it was a gunked up throttle body? I've been debating the 70mm Porsche upgrade regardless, but ordered some MSS rear camber arms today to install with the B16s and will also need an OEM aluminum skid plate before lowering, so I should probably hold off on additional less-than-immediately-necessary upgrades for the time being...
 

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2007 S40 2.4i / 2007 C70 T5
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That's the transmission oil cooler, you can't see the engine oil cooler from above the engine, you need to get under the car and look behind the oil pan to see it.
Regarding the engine bucking/surging is hard to tell, a bad fuel pressure sensor should trigger a DTC, but the ideal thing to to is to scan it first and see what the car says.
And if you have VIDA, you can monitor the throttle body values while you press the accelerator pedal and see if the values increase smoothly or they start fluctuating.
 

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Good deal on the FPS, nice easy fix. Always take those! Question about your parts list. DO you have a part number for the RS oil cooler you mention? Is it just bigger I assume?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Good deal on the FPS, nice easy fix. Always take those! Question about your parts list. DO you have a part number for the RS oil cooler you mention? Is it just bigger I assume?
Yes; Focus RS Oil Cooler for P1/RNC Engines

Bigger for better cooling and quicker engine warm up. I would advise against going for anything but OEM manufacturer though (Mahle Behr)...
 

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That's weird having so many errors from the FPS, signal too low, then too high, faulty, etc. I suspect a bad connection or a damaged wire. But as mentioned before, might as well replace the sensor and remove it from the equation. Hopefully its just that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Got the Fuel Pressure Sensor swapped this afternoon.

Pretty simple, except my old sensor was stuck and needed to be pried off with a flathead...

Car revs well and no check engine lights (for now). Going to do a full synthetic Liqui Moly oil change tomorrow to make sure she's happy with the high temps. Also noticed substantial yellowing on my coolant tank, so will probably swap that soon as well.

B16s and Massive Speed Camber Arms (along with a OEM metal skid I still have to order) are next on the to do list (with an alignment after).

Also, stained my Nordic Oak white (after sanding with 220 grit and pre-staining) and will sand down and coat over the next couple days and post pics when it's done/installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Update time:

The trend of me spending too much money on the C30 is continuing and I'm knocking out all the preventative stuff currently;

-Airtec Coolant Reservoir (black with black metal cap and sight glass) is on the way from the UK. My OEM is yellowing/cracking in the intense southern heat, so I'll swap it as soon as the aluminum replacement shows up.
-B16s and MSS rear camber arms have arrived and I'm waiting on a couple replacement parts directly from Bilstein.
-Ordered the OEM aluminum skid plate (31269433) from Volvo of Annapolis and will (grudgingly) have the dealer install it before putting on the B16s/camber arms.
-Nordic Oak needs to be sanded down (used too much white stain) and then clear coated.

I changed the oil yesterday (Liqui Moly full synthetic, Mann filter, and new crush washer), which was needed in this crazy heat.

I'll post pictures when I can!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Project OEM+ continues with the Airtec aluminum coolant tank (with sight glass).

Overall, it should've been an easy job, but the tab on the Volvo was too big to fit through the slot on the Airtec unit...

Nothing a little hammering with a flathead screwdriver to open the gap a bit couldn't fix, but disappointing, given the cost/expectation of direct swap...

Also, the aluminum "cap" (30 pounds sterling extra) is just a cover they give you, along with some double sided tape, to go over the plastic blue cap they sell... Lame.

Overall though, I'm happy with the finish and peace of mind, given I've replaced 2 OEM units from yellowing (due to heat) in as many years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just called the Volvo dealership and they want 2-3 hours labor (at $145/hour) to install the skid plate... They also said they've never installed one before... Which means I might end up doing it myself.

I've looked through the instructions and know I need to use a drill/reamer to widen the mounting holes and then drill a new hole all together, which seems doable but I'd love to get a professional to mount it, if possible.

I also asked about spark plugs/coils, since I just ticked over 89k and they said 75k is actually the service interval and only plugs needed to be changed... They quoted $100 in labor and $100 in parts (plugs alone). I found parts (Bosch plugs, Mann air filter, and dielectric grease) online much cheaper through FCP and will just do the plugs first and see if the coils need to be changed as well after a couple weeks.

Also debating buying a do88/Snabb inlet pipe since the stock pipe has to be partially removed anyways to get to the plugs... I'm planning on adding the do88 intake eventually (probably the last thing I'll do before a DP/tune), but really want to get some of the parts I've amassed on first.
 
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