Own two old Volvos? You are very rich guy!

 

LOL! That's why my wife has a newer Camry!

 

We'll, the discovery period is well underway:

1) Erratic volume control via the knob on the HU-850. Steering wheel buttons work fine. The rotary encoder is probably dirty.
2) Slight high frequency vibration from the front end. Most likely tire balance.
3) Low frequency rocking sensation from the drive train upon initial acceleration. Seems to be worse if turning. Thinking engine mounts, maybe LCA bushings too.
4) Hot soak slow crank. Car sat for about 10 min after driving 100 miles. Cranked like it was 15 below for several start attempts. Went away after idling for 5-10 minutes. Starter, starter solenoid, or dirty terminals?
5) Loud growl for about 5 secs after slow crank start. Not present during normal starts. Brake vacuum pump? It was replaced by the previous owner.

 

Pulled the RF carpet to check for water. Totally dry. Flushed water through sunroof drains and everything drains fine. So, I I'll have to keep an eye on it after rain or washing it. The windshield is not original. So, the possibility of a leak there.

Swapped in another SHM to see if that fixes the climate control LIN bus issue. Nope. Found a service receipt from the Swedeworks in PA where they traced a no heat issue to the SHM. Now, it's a no AC issue. So, something else going is on.

Cycled the brake vacuum pump. Just typical whirring. So, not sure what the growling noise was following the slow crank start.

Changed the headlight config to allow me to actually turn them off.

Spent sometime underneath checking things out. Nothing obviously untoward, except for possible small oil leak near the front of the engine. After 16 years, oil seals can get hard. Still need to jack it up and pull the wheels and drop the under engine shield.

 

Pulled the RF carpet to check for water. Totally dry. Flushed water through sunroof drains and everything drains fine. So, I I'll have to keep an eye on it after rain or washing it. The windshield is not original. So, the possibility of a leak there.

Yours may leak here. It is very typical. Rubber dries up and does not seal anymore. I used a good bead of a fireplace-grade sealant on the rubber seal and around.

There's also a Drip Protection 8693157, it is for XC90, but can be retrofitted to S/V/XC (drill and zip-tie)

 

Adding to the discovery list:

1) Defroster DMM appears to be dead.
2) AC system isn't charged.
3) AC clutch is in its death throes.
4) Fuel pump duty cycle is 41% at idle.

 

4) Fuel pump duty cycle is 41% at idle.

This is good. New pump is 35%, dead pump is ~65%. Mine is 49% for many years.

 

Nice find nonetheless, when will it get BLIS ?? Polestar?

 

BLIS, probably not. Polestar is on the long-term plan. Just need to recover from the V70's M56 swap cost and the initial outlay on the XC70. Probably rebuild my old 14T sitting in the garage to a hybrid before any Polestar tune.

 

Subscribed, Todd. I want to know more about this VR sway bar (in my garage NEW and waiting for install). My indy said HOURS and Will says in a driveway in 45 minutes. Cooler weather came and now I get to install my wang. Black Sapphire but I think it'll be fine. Use some contact cleaner on the volume (pull knob, spray and turn back and forth quickly with a microfiber to prevent drips). That'll do the trick.

After looking for an 05-07 XC70 since last fall (to supplement my 07 V70 2.5T, which has become a project car), I finally found a nice 07 from fellow SSer @wagonnguy and I adopted it today! It's a Mystic Silver over Oak Adventure Series w/129k on it. Volvo serviced exclusively through 100k. Super clean, especially the interior.

@wagonnguy has had it for about 3 years, during which he put on about 10k miles. He had a Volvo indy do a full PCV service. He installed 305mm front brakes, premium audio, nicer front seats, 2" receiver hitch, and probably a few other things. It came along with a pile of spare parts. So, it has a good foundation to start from.

First up is taking care of the leaky passenger side sunroof drain, the passenger side LIN bus isn't happy about something, and some odd audio noise, likely the amp (possibly moisture related). Then, getting it to stage 0 before winter. So, coolant and hoses, Haldex fluid and filter, angle gear and differential fluid changes.

Then, the fun stuff can begin! Wang, VR rear sway bar, sport steering wheel, new shocks and springs. Plus, any found during the "discovery period". It is a 16 year old Volvo, after all!

I'll get some pictures in the daylight tomorrow.

UPDATE: Added pictures.

View attachment 215026

View attachment 215027

View attachment 215028

 

Subscribed, Todd. I want to know more about this VR sway bar (in my garage NEW and waiting for install. My indy said HOURS and Will says in a driveway in 45 minutes. Cooler weather came and now I get to install my wang. Black Sapphire but I think it'll be fine. Use some contact cleaner on the volume (pull knob, spray and turn back and forth quickly with a microfiber to prevent drips). That'll do the trick.

Youre indys never done one the easy way. Ive done at least ten. My record is approx 36 mins. Its actually that easy. Heck vida points you 95% in the right direction!

 

Called my local dealer about key programming. $225 + SW. They were non-committal about the SW cost. Then, they grumbled about old Volvos. They can't cut the keys either.

Downloaded VDASH.

Put together my JY shopping list:

DMMs
07 CCM (just to have, V70 is acting up)
Headlight switch
Black instrument cluster shroud
Relay box cover (broke a tab getting it off)
308mm rear brake dust shields
07 mirror covers (for the V70)
Gray wheel center caps (winter wheels)
Any other nuggets I come across.

 

If you get VDASH to successfully program keys I would be very eager to hear how. I haven't investigated in awhile, but I was unable to successfully program the fob/key with the free version of VDASH and support was unwilling to help unless I was a paying customer. Which I understand, but I was hesitant to pay before definitively knowing if I would gain fob/key programing ability with the paid version.
My plan, along time ago haha, was to use Total Auto Tech to remote in and use their VIDA subscription. (More info here)

 

On the rear sway bar, the S60R 20 mm bar Just Fits, if the shocks are out. I couldn't imagine getting a 22 mm bar past those springs. OTOH rear spring replacement is kinda required on northern cars as the bottom pigtail corrodes

 

I'd likely do the spring and shock replacement at the same time to make sure it's all good and easier to accomplish. We'll see if I ever get there.

 

The icky 16 year old OTE Couplers will soon be gone.

 

Ordered struts, shocks (both Sachs) , and springs (Lesjofors).

 

Can’t hide money. Which one comes to Carlisle next year? That’s the question

 

The V70 is more "showy" than the XC70 will ever be.

 

^ this. I tried doing both when I did my rear bar. The rear shock assembly is kind of a disaster to take apart - normal spring compressors don’t work

 

I got one long ago for under $80, it works amazingly on all vehicles I had or currently have.

www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Compressor-Macpherson-Interchangeable-Protective/dp/B0CH33XWXW

 

A few items for the XC from today's picking.

Black instrument cluster shroud from an S60.
Damper motor module (3 to be exact, 2 are spares)
Headlight switch (current one is pushed in slightly. Not sure if fixable)
Driver's mirror glass (to replace the one with the wide angle spotting mirror).

 

Cleaned and conditioned the sport wheel I found. The dilemma becomes, which car gets it. The V70 is currently an R wheel and sport shifter. After the M56 swap is done, the sport shifter will move to the XC. So, keep the sport wheel and shifter together in the XC, or R wheel and sport shifter in the XC and the sport wheel in V70? Decisions, decisions....

 

Sell the r wheel and get another. I am spoiled with a sport wheel in all three cars. All I need is two more sport shifters. I thought the swap was already completed?

Cleaned and conditioned the sport wheel I found. The delima becomes, which car gets it. The V70 is currently an R wheel and sport shifter. After the M56 swap is done, the sport shifter will move to the XC. So, keep the sport wheel and shifter together in the XC, or R wheel and sport shifter in the XC and the sport wheel in V70? Decisions, decisions....

View attachment 215533

 

Grabbed some big brake pieces today along with some cast XC90 rear stay arms.

 

Inspected the brakes tonight:
1) bleeder screws come out cleanly.
2) piston seals intact, no internal rust on the pistons.
3) pistons press in by hand.
4) slider pins are clean with no rust.

So, just need new seals and slider bushings.

 

Box 'o suspension bits arrived today!

 

188 bucks to the door. I bought a JB Weld metal filler putty, filled it and sprayed it silver. Looks pretty damn good. Nav buttons! Don't know if you're adding nav to get bacl up camera or not.

Volvo P2 S60 S80 V70 XC70 XC90 T5 R-Design OEM Sport Steering Wheel #219 | eBay

Steering wheel is in good clean condition.

www.ebay.com

 

250 to the door, no fill. Sand paper will fix the metal easily. It's solid alum. Rare nav buttons on this too!

2003-2014 Volvo XC90 OEM Black Sport R-Design Leather Steering Wheel | eBay

2003-2014 Volvo XC90. Leather Steering Wheel. OEM Black Sport R-Design.

www.ebay.com

 

I need to start looking at XC90s more often! It might also explain why so many I see in the JYs are missing the steering wheel.

 

Last of the "big" items arrived today. That is, unless I give in do the big brakes sooner rather than later!

 

Why Moog?

 

Last of the "big" items arrived today. That is, unless I give in do the big brakes sooner rather than later!

I've had good luck with TYC alternators and starters - they supposedly have a lifetime warranty, but I've never had to use it.

Give us some details on the Moog (tie rods?) though - do you have good experiences with these?

 

I have them on my car right now, along with the Moog sway bar links.

No complaints, not sure what else can be said as I’ve had a few different sets on my car (long stupid story). You can tell the difference from worn out ones when putting new from anyone. I like that I can grease them, but like all the other brands I’ve tried, I’m not sure there’s anything distinct about them.

I will say, nobody should waste their money on the IPD ones. Had several failures before moving to Moog after short term NAPA ones (which were for the V70 so never “right”). IPD sway bars = good, happy with them. Anything else besides their reusable airbox filter, trash. I do like my IPD hat though so there’s that 🤷‍♂️

 

The Moog end links are beefier (thicker rod between the joints) than many others and they are greasable. Somewhere in my V70 thread I have a comparison.

 

Yes I forgot that was also a major factor in my decision to try them out after multiple failed attempts to find a good vendor.

 

Lemforder vs Moog.

 

Lemforder lasted for me for like 100k miles, including my trips to wilderness.

 

Better blue box than Moog for ball joints from what I have seen.