SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

Delrin subframe bushings - review

30K views 57 replies 24 participants last post by  Rollinheavy65  
#1 · (Edited)
Installation: Used a hammer, screw driver and chisel to wedge the plastic framed bushings out. Yeah it was a pain in the butt and took about 10-15 min per bushing. This is with me on the ground, car on jack stands. For some reason I thought that the new delrin bushings would just plop right in there and the weight of the jack pressing up on them would seat them in easily. Not the case. In order to get these puppies seated correctly I had to cut two "spacers" from 3.5" aluminum tubing I had laying around to put between the subframe and the frame, then draw the delrein bushing in with the subframe bolt and impact gun. Two different spacers were needed because the bolts aren't long enough to reach the frame with the tall spacer in AND the delrin bushing all the way unseated. So you draw them in with the smaller spacer, back the bolt back out, put in the taller spacer and draw the bushing in the rest of the way.

Here's a crude rendering:
Image


Conclusion: Ridiculously stiff and that's exactly what I expected. You don't know how much those rubber bushings move until you replace them with the almost solid delrin.

Updated conclusion so none of this between the quotes is correct any more//////"It's a gritty connection to the engine, you can FEEL the engine through the steering wheel and footboard. The WORST side-effect is the drone/vibration at idle while in gear. The dash (up toward the windshield) actually shakes and the wing on the roof rattles pretty loudly. I think it's the wires inside for the brake light that are flapping around at just the right frequency to BUZZ. If I put it in neutral the vibration goes away. This wouldn't be an issue for the manual guys since when you're stopped with the clutch in there's the engine isn't torque-ing against the motor mounts."//////

The vibration at idle was caused by the poly lower trans mount I added at the same time as the delrin subframe bushings. Just threw a stock one on and ALL the vibrations at idle while in Drive are gone!

Anyway, all in all, happy I did it. It actually LESSENED my 70mph vibration by quite a bit, which is undoubtedly a funky axle.
 
#2 ·
I love my Delrin subframe bushings!!! The caR just feels much more solid.
 
#3 ·
This was really informative! I might give this a try knowing exactly how to do it on Jackstands, I figured this would have required dropping the subframe.

How does it affect handling though, like in the corners? Can you compare to the IPD poly inserts?
 
#4 ·
I dropped my subframe and used a baby sludge hammer and a 32mm socket to drive it home. Your way sounds quicker.
Sent from my rotor-dial phone with the help of Cortana.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Here is how I did mine.
Image


Then bolted the delrin inserts in. Easy peasy!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Similar to what I did but I didn't cut out the center section. Proved to be a waste of time sawzalling under the car for me. Just hammered the screwdriver through the lip then up the inside edge of the bushing and pried my heart out.
 
#6 ·
^is that a spacer you created in the last pic?
 
#8 ·
I don't have a comparison to inserts. They do change the handling significantly. Much stiffer and connected now. With the track swaybars pulling out of a dipped parking entrance I get one wheel up in the air. Steering feels less squishy.

These aren't for everyone though. The vibration at idle with the AC on is definitely noticeable by all passengers. Non car people will seriously think your car is going to explode and ask a bunch of dumb questions to prove it.
 
#10 ·
Anyone compare these to IPD's version?
 
#11 ·
IPDs only stiffen up the stock/crappy bushings so far.

I currently have IPD ones, and picked up a set of Kaplenke's delrin ones. If I get around to installing them, I'll try to come up with something.
 
#16 ·
Just ordered a pair 😃
 
#19 ·
Im trying the subframe brace instead since it'l be easier. You can have your idle raised if you do a tune. I did and all the vibes from poly is gone
 
#20 ·
Installed mine last weekend....
Let me preface this by saying there's not many mods I wouldn't help another Volvo owner with, but this is one.

Starting with cutting the bushings out:
I tried with a drywall saw, which was futile and painful. Then I went to the dremel with a cutting bit. Painful, but not as bad. Molten rubber everywhere, toxic smoke galore. Make sure to wear a mask. For the next three, I used a hole saw with a huge corded hammer drill (switched to non-hammer mode). Still horrible. Sprays 300 degree liquid rubber everywhere, leaving you with nice burns and impossible-to-rub-off rubber gunk.

Next comes the install:
I'm sure these are very easy and have a very nice locking fit if you put them on with the subframe out of the car with a press. Under the car? Not easy at all. I decided I'd draw them in with the subframe bolts. Slapped my 5' cheater bar on the end of my breaker bar and broke the subframe bolt. Ended up sanding the little locking ridge off the sides of the shaft. Even then, it took plenty of sledgehammer hits to get them in.

I can notice a big difference in acceleration feel, the car doesn't lurch backward like it used too. A bunch of creaks are gone and the car feels stiffer (not as much as everyone seems to make it out to be, but I have the 25mm sways and KW's, along with all the stiffening bits, so I think some of the magic was lost on me).

Would I buy and install again? Yep. But this time with long sleeves and throw-away tools.
 
#21 ·
Installed mine last weekend....
Let me preface this by saying there's not many mods I wouldn't help another Volvo owner with, but this is one.

Starting with cutting the bushings out:
I tried with a drywall saw, which was futile and painful. Then I went to the dremel with a cutting bit. Painful, but not as bad. Molten rubber everywhere, toxic smoke galore. Make sure to wear a mask. For the next three, I used a hole saw with a huge corded hammer drill (switched to non-hammer mode). Still horrible. Sprays 300 degree liquid rubber everywhere, leaving you with nice burns and impossible-to-rub-off rubber gunk.

Next comes the install:
I'm sure these are very easy and have a very nice locking fit if you put them on with the subframe out of the car with a press. Under the car? Not easy at all. I decided I'd draw them in with the subframe bolts. Slapped my 5' cheater bar on the end of my breaker bar and broke the subframe bolt. Ended up sanding the little locking ridge off the sides of the shaft. Even then, it took plenty of sledgehammer hits to get them in.

I can notice a big difference in acceleration feel, the car doesn't lurch backward like it used too. A bunch of creaks are gone and the car feels stiffer (not as much as everyone seems to make it out to be, but I have the 25mm sways and KW's, along with all the stiffening bits, so I think some of the magic was lost on me).

Would I buy and install again? Yep. But this time with long sleeves and throw-away tools.
What bushings did you install that gave you so much trouble?
 
#32 ·
So, once you get the old ones out, these two piece bushings should pop right in? Eliminating most of the frustration everyone in this thread seems to be having? And the benefits over stock/stock + ipd poly inserts are comparable?

Just trying to get clarification, as I haven't seen these eBay ones mentioned anywhere on the boards recently. Which is why I went with the kaplhenke.
 
#33 ·
They're made by C10 or CJ8 or something that reminds me of a Jeep model. I'm sure they're fine, I'd just rather support Ben, and his were a much better price when I bought mine (on sale)
 
#37 ·
Had them put in today with ipd control arms, front sway bar, ipd HD end links...no noticeable vibration above the difference I felt when I put the upper poly ipd mount and lower tranny billet mount.

It is tight. No other adjective describes it.
 
#38 ·
Wanted to note that I updated my original review with the true cause of the vibration at idle. It was the poly lower trans mount that I added at the same time as the delrin subframe bushings. No vibration any more after replacing that with a rubber version.
 
#40 ·
Cant wait to put mine in, sitting on the ground next to me as I type... my car feels planted now so I cant wait to see what the change is like with these!