Appreciate you doing the used oil analysis!

 

Thank you! Curious for someone to do a UOA on PPU 0W-40...

Sure thing!

A friend of mine is big on Pennzoil but aside from a brief stint using Pennzoil Ultra Euro (I believe it was re-bottled Shell Helix Ultra at the time) many years ago, my experience with the brand is limited.

Checked out the spec for PPU 0W-40 and what stands out when comparing it to M1 FS 0W-40 is that the pour point is notably better with M1.

https://www.shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en/5b97474d-c98e-43a3-9601-65e437151c09.pdf

I'm sure it's a quality product, but I wouldn't run it over M1 in a cold climate.

@HLG600 it might be important to remind people that with the Quaker State Full Synthetic results, you added a quart of oil during the oil interval. The assumption is this would improve the QSFS results a little.

Good point, especially considering that the extra quart was added just a few hundred miles before the oil change / sample taken.

With QSFS 5W-30, the oil light came on after 2,700 miles of driving.

Another variable is that I changed the PCV ~1,500 miles ago.

This next M1 FS 0W-40 run should be telling with regard to oil consumption. I'm checking every 1K miles.

 

Thank you! Curious for someone to do a UOA on PPU 0W-40...

 

I 2nd that Pennzoil Platinum Ultra because I’ve seen their 0W-40 oil do better than M1 0W-40 in the 2.5t, maybe due to the flash point. Luckily, our 3.2s don’t have to worry about that as much without a hot turbo.

The Mobil 1 shows great TBN, which may fall in line with the Mercedes spec and extended oil intervals. Zinc, an anti wear additive, acting as a sacrificial layer to cushion metal to metal contact looks consistent with other A3/B4 oils (0W/5W-40) of around 1,000-1,100 (for virgin oil). This is a higher amount than A5/B5 oils (5W/10W-30), which are around 800-900 (for virgin oil). Phosphorus, working with zinc is a good amount too.

@ggleavitt asked about worn older engines. I got this explanation online and shows how the wear valleys of steel are filled with the zinc/phosphorous.

“Anti-Wear Agents prevent wear from seizure or scuffing of metal surfaces that would otherwise rub or contact each other. They are normally zinc and phosphorus or other organo-metallic based compounds such as boron, and are sacrificial, decreasing throughout the oil drain interval.

In addition to providing anti-wear protection, zinc dialkyl dithiophosphates (ZDDP) act as oxidation and corrosion inhibitors. They are primarily used in gasoline and diesel engine oils as well as in industrial lubricants.

Zinc is a polar molecule, so it is attracted to steel surfaces. Under heat and load, the Zinc reacts with the steel surface and creates a phosphate glass film that protects the steel surface by forming a sacrificial film that covers the peaks and fills in the valleys of the steel surface.”

 

I haven't looked in a while... is there a good ZDDP additive for older vehicles / engines as ZDDP levels decrease? I wonder for my Z31 300ZX Turbo if it's worth adding something as the levels keep decreasing.

 

There was, but I think there was also an article (Grassroots Motorsports?) that showed the aftermarket additive thinned out the oil, thus affecting/negating the ZDDP. The best way to get it is in the oil formulation originally.

Almost all oils have reduced their zinc, including the 10W-40 oils that served older engines well. The 10W-40s also got thinner, even in the high mileage variety. Rotella in all variants (T4, T5, & T6) have also reduced their zinc and lowered viscosity.

There is one, Liqui Moly MOS2 10W-40 synthetic blend that still has zinc at 1200. Otherwise, if your 300ZX turbo is catless, Amsoil 10W-40 Premium Protection has zinc at 1300 and phosphorous at 1200.

 

@HLG600 it might be important to remind people that with the Quaker State Full Synthetic results, you added a quart of oil during the oil interval. The assumption is this would improve the QSFS results a little.

 

Following the D92 flash point test, the M1 0W-40 has a flash point of 226°C (~439°F). The Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0W-40 has a flash point of 232°C (~450°F). That's where I believe the Pennzoil does better for the 2.5t with the hot turbo exposure. Both oils carry similar European spec approvals, but Pennzoil does not carry the Porsche A40 one.

Mobil 1™ FS 0W-40| Mobil™

Mobil 1™ FS 0W-40 motor oil is the result of decades of collaborative development with major car manufacturers and the application of the latest lubrication technology. It helps provide unsurpassed performance under very demanding driving conditions.

www.mobil.com

(M1 page: no need to download the PDS pdf, scroll for the specs)

Pennzoil also provides the D93 flash point in which it appears at 210°C.
From the interwebs:
ASTM D-92 is the Cleveland Open Cup test.
ASTM D-93 is the Pensky-Martens Closed Cup test

 

Good catch, corrected.

 

1K miles into the OCI and the oil level is stable. Here's to hoping the combination of M1 0W-40 and new PCV keeps the consumption at bay.

 

Did you replace the the entire PCV breather box or just the PCV membrane with the Doorman or Land Rover repair kit.

 

I have the Doorman kit on my shelf and debating installing it as preventative maintenance or waiting for failure and going FoMoCo.

 

The PCV does not need to make noise for it to be bad. It could have a small tear, it could have an issue with the spring, how the spring sits on the diaphragm, the way the diaphragm is flexing, or how the diaphragm is sitting. The PCV seal can also have a small air leak. Replace the whole unit.

People forget that plastic can warp over time and that a lot of people have tried just the diaphragm with it only helping short term (sometimes only partial improvement). You basically pry the cover off and it can flex/bend, not sitting as tight upon reinstallation.

For a very well known wear part on all engines that have a diaphragm PCV, why wait? You could be introducing more oil than normal into the intake, combustion chamber, and to the catalytics if you have around 100k miles/160k km. PCVs should be changed before they are completely gone.

 

You're totally right on replacing it early. I always have questioned the quality of the Doorman kit, but a lot more positive reviews are in for it now. Land Rover sells a kit similar Doorman kit now too. I'm only driving the XC90 about once a week for 20mis on the highway these days, so haven't been in a rush.

 

Yeah, well, the long term feedback I’ve gotten is it doesn’t last or doesn’t fix it completely. For the price of the cheap Dorman kit and a new PCV seal, it’s already 40% of the cost of an entirely new OEM unit/box.

Since the PCV (oil separator) is important when doing these oil analyses and oil feedback, good to go over it because it can affect accurate results.

 

I replaced my diaphragm with the Dorman kit as a pre-emptive maintenance job. That was maybe 15k miles ago. All good, so far. I wonder if the diaphragm supplied by Dorman is any better or worse than the one fitted in the aftermarket complete cover from Pro Parts Sweden or BBR, though. The price range is from $55 to $130 USD. Time and miles will tell.

Volvo XC90 Parts | Spares & Replacement | FCP Euro

Shop Volvo XC90 Parts and Spares online. OEM & Genuine Volvo parts with a Lifetime Replacement Guarantee and Hassle-Free Returns.

www.fcpeuro.com

 

Yes, please let us know. I replaced one in an S60 (P3) and it was only partially working. The PCV also has the seal which goes inside the PCV box and that could be compromised as well. We all know that seals (and other things) can shrink in cold weather 🙄

 

As an update, still consuming but gradually.

To recap:

• Last service @ 156K miles, using 7.5 QTs of M1 0W-40. Dipstick reported the level at the 3rd "X" (of 4).
• Oil level checked @ 157K miles. No change from initial fill.
• Oil level checked @ 158K miles. Dropped to 2nd "X".
• Oil level checked @ 159K miles. Dropped to 1st "X".

I have my 160K mile oil change coming up, and am interested to see how much is drained this time. Across the prior OCI with M1 0W-40 (~3K miles), the engine consumed 0.75 QTs and this will be a 4K mile OCI for comparison.

In the meantime, can anyone confirm the rough volume of oil between each "X" on the dipstick?

 

In general, generically speaking, the amount between the high and low marks should be around 1qt or 1L depending on vehicle. Sometimes there are updates and variations, so it can depend. Sorry, can’t confirm the amount for the 2011 3.2. Different year 3.2s did spec different oil capacities.

It sounds like you have done a great job of using synthetic oil & doing maintenance with good results especially since your XC90 originally would consume 2qts(?) of oil.

 

That helps, thank you. I'll bring the level up to the 4th "X" for this next one and document my observations here. The 2011 calls for 7.2 QTs, which I estimate puts the level right in the middle of the dipstick.

I didn't track the consumption this methodically in the beginning, but it was ~2L across a 6K mile OCI using Liqui Moly's Volvo-spec'd 0W-30. Quaker State 5W-30 consumed at a similar rate (1 QT in ~3K miles).

The combination of M1 0W-40 and new PCV is likely what slowed that rate down a bit. M1 in general has great cleaning properties, so perhaps the shorter intervals (building to every 5K miles) will help further reduce the consumption in the long run.

Lastly, there is the option of using something a little more aggressive to clean the piston rings, but I'm not there yet.

 

Oil level checked again after another 500 miles (including some lengthy trips where the engine was plenty exercised) and it seems to have dropped a bit more. Now reads just under the 4th "X" and I suspect that the low oil light was very close to being triggered.

Added 1 QT and it now reads on the 1st "X", confirming that a quart covers the dipstick range.

I've reconsidered waiting to clean the piston rings, and ordered a BG44K BG109 / EPR product that was highly recommended by a BMW expert / experienced professional to remedy oil consumption caused by gunked up rings.

 

How many miles on the oil? For not doing any engine flushes, you are still heading in the right direction of reduced oil consumption.

Are you planning to do a top end soak via the spark plug hole? I’ve used BG44k in fuel before and it does well, but not a top end soak. I don’t think any fuel additive will help piston rings that much, if at all. The BG Dynamic engine cleaner service could work too, but it’s expensive. Great videos of before and after with JR Go using it in a sludged up engine. The results are in his following video.

It will take time to clean the carbon layers in piston rings, but getting a good start should help. There’s the Liqui Moly oil engine flush that a few 3.2 owners have used and they are affordable. I had good results in a non-Volvo naturally aspirated engine with Berryman B12 for a top end soak then following up with Marvel Mystery Oil in the engine oil for ~250 miles. Just found this video about B12 explaining a comparison to BG44k. Then this video shows how Berryman B12 is better than Seafoam.

Each engine is a unique case. Pick your poison. If you want to try any combination, like a top end soak then a Liqui Moly oil engine flush, that would be my recommendation. Just follow up with a really short oil change interval after.

Keep us updated.

 

How many miles on the oil? For not doing any engine flushes, you are still heading in the right direction of reduced oil consumption.

~3.5K miles on the oil.

Are you planning to do a top end soak via the spark plug hole? I’ve used BG44k in fuel before and it does well, but not a top end soak. I don’t think any fuel additive will help piston rings that much, if at all.

Not at this time, although a top end soak is certainly an option I'd consider.

I agree that a fuel additive won't do anything here. Pardon, typo on my part. The product ordered was BG109 / EPR, which is added to the oil.

The BG Dynamic engine cleaner service could work too, but it’s expensive. Great videos of before and after with JR Go using it in a sludged up engine. The results are in his following video.

It will take time to clean the carbon layers in piston rings, but getting a good start should help. There’s the Liqui Moly oil engine flush that a few 3.2 owners have used and they are affordable. I had good results in a non-Volvo naturally aspirated engine with Berryman B12 for a top end soak then following up with Marvel Mystery Oil in the engine oil for ~250 miles. Just found this video about B12 explaining a comparison to BG44k. Then this video shows how Berryman B12 is better than Seafoam.

Thank you for these links. The BG Dynamic looks interesting. Maybe something to scale up to if needed.

I've used Liqui Moly's Engine Flush on a few platforms in the past. It works.

BG109 / EPR was explained to me as a similar product, but stronger. The exact use case was cleaning piston rings on multiple BMW M54 engines and curing some pretty serious oil consumption issues.

Each engine is a unique case. Pick your poison. If you want to try any combination, like a top end soak then a Liqui Moly oil engine flush, that would be my recommendation. Just follow up with a really short oil change interval after.

I found some M1 0W-40 in storage that's maybe 5-6 years old (still sealed, of course). Was thinking to run that for a super short OCI right after the treatment (few miles of driving) and then draining it again.

With this approach, do you think there is any risk with a 5K mile OCI after?

Keep us updated.

Will do.

 

I used two bottles (500ml each) of Liquid Moly LM2037 in my 3.2 per the instructions, and observed positive results. I didn't end up keeping the car long enough to come up with a real quantification of the results, as it seemed to be continuing to improve with time, but I can say without reservation that in the first 2000 miles or so, my oil consumption dropped from a quart in less than 1000 miles to a quart in closer to 2000 miles. I have no doubt that it would have (did) continue to improve for the next owner.

Your mileage may vary....

 

I had only used a single bottle without much change in consumption that I could notice. I think in my case, swapping the PCV had a larger effect than the Liqui Moly Engine Flush did.

So yes - mileage can vary here.

 

I recall that two bottles was right at the maximum recommended concentration. I figured if it was going to work, more would be better!

 

I haven’t personally used BG EPR, but one thing to remember about the BMW M54 is that they used full synthetic oil from the beginning, thus they can clean up pretty well. Their issue is a combo of the low tensions piston rings and the CCV system (not a typo), whereas like we see in the Volvo 3.2, people changed the PCV out too late. If your XC90 has a long history of using non-synthetic, it might take more than the BG EPR. That’s where I would do the top end Berryman B12 before.

As far as the oil change interval after, I would still shorten it. I know of half a dozen times people did a flush and the oil filter gunked up pretty quick, like within 500 miles, even though they did an oil (rinse) change after the flush. I would do 2k-3k miles max, just to be safe, but perhaps replace the oil filter halfway through. Then go back to the normal OCI.

One more thing, a cheat for using BG EPR or an engine flush, since there is the potential for the harsher chemicals affecting seals, throw in some of the Liqui Moly Motor Oil Saver for that 2k-3k oil change to condition the seals. There are more aggressive seal conditioners out there, but those have some history of making seals too soft leading to a seal tearing. LM is milder and safer.

 

Good points / advice, thank you.

I'm going to order the Motor Oil Saver today. Assuming a 7.5+ QT fill of oil each time, 2 cans or 1?

The car was a 1-Owner with dealer service records. I bore-scoped the cylinders when changing the plugs and everything looked pretty clean.

That said, 7-10K mile OCIs with what, semi-synthetic? The B12 soak is something to think about.

 

You are a step ahead using a bore scope to inspect the cylinders.

I would just do 1 can of the Motor Oil Saver since you’re not dealing with a 20yr+ old vehicle or an engine that runs hot in the engine bay where it hardens the seals quicker.

 

@HLG600, any updates on this thread and your oil consumption? I know it's been a while, but just wanted to see if the engine flush treatment helped at all or had any noticeable improvements. As well, if your use of M1 0w40 and shorter OCI's also helped to reduce oil consumption.

I also use M1 0w40 but with some consumption. Heading towards a 5,000km OCI and I have a bottle of LM Engine Flush waiting for me, but I'm waiting on the oil to do it's job over a few intervals before getting the engine flush involved. This thread has been great, but I would love to hear your experience since the last post.

As well, too add to this conversation, specifically in regards to the Dorman pcv diaphragm, in a recent PCV service, to my surprise after 25,000km of use there was no noticeable damage or wear on the diaphragm. It looked as though it had lots of life left in it. Thanks @HLG600, looking forward to any news.

-----
For more details on the diaphragm/PCV service: I have recently serviced my PCV (Jan 2025). Initially, when I purchased an 2010 XC90 3.2 at 165,000 km (Nov 2022) I did the quick swap of the diaphragm, but didn't clean out the pcv or even take it off. I didn't have time then, but realized later that it was not the way to go.

Last week I removed the pcv, cleaned out the junk, and replaced it with a pcv case taken off a wrecked 3.2 (also deep cleaned), a new PCV seal ($12, FCP/RockAuto) and a new Dorman pcv diaphragm. All in, less than $100 in and an hour or two cleaning out the engine side of the PCV.

I normally stay way from Dorman, especially their haldex pump (lesson learned the hard way), but there are really no other options availbale for the diaphragm. I was expecting it had failed, but I was happily surprised. Would recommend the diaphragm.

 

@HLG600, any updates on this thread and your oil consumption? I know it's been a while, but just wanted to see if the engine flush treatment helped at all or had any noticeable improvements. As well, if your use of M1 0w40 and shorter OCI's also helped to reduce oil consumption.

Pardon, I haven't been on here in several months and am catching up.

Should probably make a thread about the engine cleaning treatment and process I attempted, but in the meantime, I can report that the Mobil 1 0W-40 alone did not do anything to resolve my oil consumption.

Given my XC90's Winter-biased usage and the FCP warranty, I returned to using the Volvo-approved Liqui Moly 0W-30.

In terms of oil consumption with it:

-With this oil alone, a low oil light is triggered between 2.5K-3K miles (even after the engine cleaning treatment).
-With this oil plus two cans of Liqui Moly Motor Oil Saver, I've been able to push to a 4K mile OCI.

The current OCI is the first one I am testing to 5K miles. If the above combination comfortably gets me there, it is likely where I'll settle.

If not, I'm considering testing Liqui Moly Leichtlauf 5W-40 next.

 

Technology marches forward. There is a new product, Valvoline Protect and Restore engine oil, developed to address exactly this problem. There have been many positive reports, and, if I still had the car and it still had the problem, I wouldn't hesitate to try it.

 

Hi John, despite the oil not being available in Canada, I took your advice, did some research, took a trip to the States and picked up some 5W-30 Valvoline Restore and Protect earlier this year. At ~195,000km (~121,000 miles) I was burning 1L/5000km (3,000 mile). Therefore, from what it seems, mild consumption when compared to some, but it was likely to continue to get worse.

As of today, I'm finishing the first 1,000 km on the first oil change with RP. So far, there is no consumption. If there is consumption, it is not noticeable as i'm still at the initial dipstick level. Please keep in mind my low-ish consumption and I'm only 620mile/1000km in, but it looks good thus far. Some varnish under the oil fill cap (inside) has been removed as well. However, I am still skeptical on Valovline's claims as they do seem to be too good to be true. Only time will tell.

I plan to change the oil after 3,000 km as I expect it to be fairly dirty. I will be running RP all summer and into the fall. I purchased enough for 3x oil changes. I am going to switch back to the Mobil 1 0w40 for the winter as it is thicker and better protection for the winter.

Thanks again for the response and the info on Restore and Protect.

@HLG600, thank you for your input as well. I wish FCPEuro would open a Canadian branch.

 

I would have been thrilled to get 2500 miles before the light came on! I think I was headed in that direction, but couldn't get it to pass inspection without sinking $5000 into it with no guaranty of long term success.

 

Thanks for the update. That's really encouraging! I wish that had been available when I had my XC90. Please let us know how that first oil change goes.