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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Prior UOA using Quaker State for reference: B6324S5 | Blackstone UOA | Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W-30

Posted below is the latest UOA following my switch to Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. I kept the interval intentionally short / consistent with the last one to make the comparison fair.

Some notes / observations:
  • 7.5 QTs were filled and 6.75 QTs were drained after 3K miles, indicating a notably slower rate of consumption than observed with QSFS 5W-30.
  • Adding 7.5 QTs back and checking on verified level ground, the dipstick reads on the 3rd "X", which is one notch below Full.
  • There is no measurable difference between checking the oil level immediately after engine shutoff vs. after waiting 5-10 minutes.
Takeaways from the UOAs:
  • Wear Metals | QSFS 5W-30 and Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 performed equally well.
  • Remaining Additives (TBN) | Mobil 1 FS retained significantly more (6.7 vs. 3.8).
  • Flashpoint | QSFS was notably more robust (~7% drop from new vs. Mobil 1 FS reporting ~12% drop from new).
  • Shear Stability | Mobil 1 FS was slightly more robust (cSt @ 100C dropped ~16% over the course of the OCI vs. the 20%+ drop with QSFS).
All in all, a strong result. I'm going to bump the OCI to 4K miles for the current run (to bring me to an even 160K) and then will bump up to 5K intervals after that.
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Appreciate you doing the used oil analysis!
 

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Thank you! Curious for someone to do a UOA on PPU 0W-40...
 

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I 2nd that Pennzoil Platinum Ultra because I’ve seen their 0W-40 oil do better than M1 0W-40 in the 2.5t, maybe due to the flash point. Luckily, our 3.2s don’t have to worry about that as much without a hot turbo.

The Mobil 1 shows great TBN, which may fall in line with the Mercedes spec and extended oil intervals. Zinc, an anti wear additive, acting as a sacrificial layer to cushion metal to metal contact looks consistent with other A3/B4 oils (0W/5W-40) of around 1,000-1,100 (for virgin oil). This is a higher amount than A5/B5 oils (5W/10W-30), which are around 800-900 (for virgin oil). Phosphorus, working with zinc is a good amount too.

@ggleavitt asked about worn older engines. I got this explanation online and shows how the wear valleys of steel are filled with the zinc/phosphorous.

“Anti-Wear Agents prevent wear from seizure or scuffing of metal surfaces that would otherwise rub or contact each other. They are normally zinc and phosphorus or other organo-metallic based compounds such as boron, and are sacrificial, decreasing throughout the oil drain interval.

In addition to providing anti-wear protection, zinc dialkyl dithiophosphates (ZDDP) act as oxidation and corrosion inhibitors. They are primarily used in gasoline and diesel engine oils as well as in industrial lubricants.

Zinc is a polar molecule, so it is attracted to steel surfaces. Under heat and load, the Zinc reacts with the steel surface and creates a phosphate glass film that protects the steel surface by forming a sacrificial film that covers the peaks and fills in the valleys of the steel surface.”
 

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I haven't looked in a while... is there a good ZDDP additive for older vehicles / engines as ZDDP levels decrease? I wonder for my Z31 300ZX Turbo if it's worth adding something as the levels keep decreasing.
 

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There was, but I think there was also an article (Grassroots Motorsports?) that showed the aftermarket additive thinned out the oil, thus affecting/negating the ZDDP. The best way to get it is in the oil formulation originally.

Almost all oils have reduced their zinc, including the 10W-40 oils that served older engines well. The 10W-40s also got thinner, even in the high mileage variety. Rotella in all variants (T4, T5, & T6) have also reduced their zinc and lowered viscosity.

There is one, Liqui Moly MOS2 10W-40 synthetic blend that still has zinc at 1200. Otherwise, if your 300ZX turbo is catless, Amsoil 10W-40 Premium Protection has zinc at 1300 and phosphorous at 1200.
 

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@HLG600 it might be important to remind people that with the Quaker State Full Synthetic results, you added a quart of oil during the oil interval. The assumption is this would improve the QSFS results a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Appreciate you doing the used oil analysis!
Thank you! Curious for someone to do a UOA on PPU 0W-40...
Sure thing!

A friend of mine is big on Pennzoil but aside from a brief stint using Pennzoil Ultra Euro (I believe it was re-bottled Shell Helix Ultra at the time) many years ago, my experience with the brand is limited.

Checked out the spec for PPU 0W-40 and what stands out when comparing it to M1 FS 0W-40 is that the pour point is notably better with M1.


I'm sure it's a quality product, but I wouldn't run it over M1 in a cold climate.

@HLG600 it might be important to remind people that with the Quaker State Full Synthetic results, you added a quart of oil during the oil interval. The assumption is this would improve the QSFS results a little.
Good point, especially considering that the extra quart was added just a few hundred miles before the oil change / sample taken.

With QSFS 5W-30, the oil light came on after 2,700 miles of driving.

Another variable is that I changed the PCV ~1,500 miles ago.

This next M1 FS 0W-40 run should be telling with regard to oil consumption. I'm checking every 1K miles.
 

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Following the D92 flash point test, the M1 0W-40 has a flash point of 226°C (~439°F). The Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0W-40 has a flash point of 232°C (~450°F). That's where I believe the Pennzoil does better for the 2.5t with the hot turbo exposure. Both oils carry similar European spec approvals, but Pennzoil does not carry the Porsche A40 one.

(M1 page: no need to download the PDS pdf, scroll for the specs)

Pennzoil also provides the D93 flash point in which it appears at 210°C.
From the interwebs:
ASTM D-92 is the Cleveland Open Cup test.
ASTM D-93 is the Pensky-Martens Closed Cup test
 

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Checked out the spec for PPU 0W-40 and what stands out when comparing it to M1 FS 0W-40 is that the pour point is notably better with M1.


I'm sure it's a quality product, but I wouldn't run it over M1 in a cold climate.
Wait, what? To clarify. Did you just completely change what you were saying in the post? Didn't you initially say you did not use Pennzoil because it had a lower flash point? Which is actually higher than M1.

But now switched the post to, you used Mobil 1 because it has a lower pour point?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Wait, what? To clarify. Did you just completely change what you were saying in the post?
Not at all. I only corrected the comment about M1 having a better flash point. When I compared the spec, I read the PPU 0W-40's 210C flash point number. However, as you pointed out, that number is tied to a different test / standard of evaluation (D3).

Apples to apples, which in this case would be comparing the D2 results, shows PPU as having the better flash point out of the bottle.

Didn't you initially say you did not use Pennzoil because it had a lower flash point? Which is actually higher than M1.

But now switched the post to, you used Mobil 1 because it has a lower pour point?
That is not accurate.

Again, the only edit to my post was correcting the comment about the flash point. The part about the pour point was always there, along with everything else in the post.

To be clear:
  1. M1 FS 0W-40 is an oil I know well and have used across multiple platforms. I tried it out in this SI6 application for a few reasons, one of which was the impressive pour point.
  2. I never considered using PPU 0W-40 and compared the specs for the first time today out of curiosity when it was brought up in this thread.
 

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1K miles into the OCI and the oil level is stable. Here's to hoping the combination of M1 0W-40 and new PCV keeps the consumption at bay.
Did you replace the the entire PCV breather box or just the PCV membrane with the Doorman or Land Rover repair kit.
 

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Did you replace the the entire PCV breather box or just the PCV membrane with the Doorman or Land Rover repair kit.
Whole box with a Genuine Volvo / FoMoCo part @ 155K miles.

It wasn't noisy, but far from clean with a thick film covering the internals. Also spent a good 30 minutes cleaning the area underneath the PCV unit before installing the new one.
 

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I have the Doorman kit on my shelf and debating installing it as preventative maintenance or waiting for failure and going FoMoCo.
 

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The PCV does not need to make noise for it to be bad. It could have a small tear, it could have an issue with the spring, how the spring sits on the diaphragm, the way the diaphragm is flexing, or how the diaphragm is sitting. The PCV seal can also have a small air leak. Replace the whole unit.

People forget that plastic can warp over time and that a lot of people have tried just the diaphragm with it only helping short term (sometimes only partial improvement). You basically pry the cover off and it can flex/bend, not sitting as tight upon reinstallation.

For a very well known wear part on all engines that have a diaphragm PCV, why wait? You could be introducing more oil than normal into the intake, combustion chamber, and to the catalytics if you have around 100k miles/160k km. PCVs should be changed before they are completely gone.
 

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You're totally right on replacing it early. I always have questioned the quality of the Doorman kit, but a lot more positive reviews are in for it now. Land Rover sells a kit similar Doorman kit now too. I'm only driving the XC90 about once a week for 20mis on the highway these days, so haven't been in a rush.
 

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You're totally right on replacing it early. I always have questioned the quality of the Doorman kit, but a lot more positive reviews are in for it now. Land Rover sells a kit similar Doorman kit now too. I'm only driving the XC90 about once a week for 20mis on the highway these days, so haven't been in a rush.
Yeah, well, the long term feedback I’ve gotten is it doesn’t last or doesn’t fix it completely. For the price of the cheap Dorman kit and a new PCV seal, it’s already 40% of the cost of an entirely new OEM unit/box.

Since the PCV (oil separator) is important when doing these oil analyses and oil feedback, good to go over it because it can affect accurate results.
 

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Yeah, well, the long term feedback I’ve gotten is it doesn’t last or doesn’t fix it completely. For the price of the cheap Dorman kit and a new PCV seal, it’s already 40% of the cost of an entirely new OEM unit/box.

Since the PCV (oil separator) is important when doing these oil analyses and oil feedback, good to go over it because it can affect accurate results.
I wish it was that cheap for me... I got the two Dooman kits I have for 20$ all in on a pricing error.

The OEM Volvo part is 300$ in Canada with a discount:

Cheapest OE quality part is from Land Rover in Canada for around 170$ + shipping (which is expensive in Canada for larger objects): 2008-2012 Land Rover LR2 Valve Cover LR023777 | Land Rover Parts Direct
 
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