[kirchster]

I ordered a couple of these while waiting for a warm enough day to pull the old, repaired pump out of the car again: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/abt-cfd402/overview/

I've learned over the years that on cheap stuff in unfamiliar territory, buy two, cuz you'll screw one of them up. And I did - getting this over the barbed fitting at the top of the pump assy is near impossible without heat, and don't even think about using a blow dryer - one hot spot, and it's over. Now take the other one, microwave a coffee cup full of water for 2 minutes, stick the end you are gonna push on in it for 30 seconds, put the supplied band clamp over it, and it'll go on pretty easily. The pump end is even easier. This tube is about 1.5" longer than the tube on the stock assy, so I carefully compared and copied the bends to make sure I was putting it all back together in a way that wouldn't cause me problems when I reinstalled the whole thing. I reused the web mesh from the original tube, and even added a piece of split corrugated protector around the tube where it passes over the edge of the white canister. Pretty happy with this part.

Now for the "dumb ass" part of the story. When I pulled the pump assy out to compare as I was rebuilding the newer unit with the Aeromotive pump, I somehow managed to drop the wire I attach to the driver side pigtail hose back in the tank. Now I had to screw around for 20 minutes figuring out how to push a piece of 14-2 romex through from one side to the other without really being able to see what I was doing. Eventually, I got it to fish through, sighed a breath of relief, and went about reassembling the unit with the Aeromotve pump. I used a 3.5" band clamp round the two motors to make up for cutting the plastic band when I took the old pump out. It fit fine. I thread locked it, and the two clamps that came with the summit tube, but wanted to let it cure for a few days before sticking it back in gasoline.

Fast forward to the next warm day: I fiddled and fussed around trying to getting everything to go back the tank, and it just wouldn't. I'd done it twice before, and it was so easy I didn't give it a second thought. Now something was binding that pigtail hose that goes to the other side. I took the other pump unit and laid it on top and noticed that the curve of the hose points toward the front of the car, but the path I had fished the romex through was farther back. I suddenly had a hot flash thinking about TyleR89's comment above about kinking the fuel hose. Yep! this is how you do it. I pulled it back out, and sure enough all my pushing and tugging had put a nice crease in the hose of the brand freaking new pump assy. I looked more closely at the old assy to see if I could steal the hose off it, but all this stuff is heat shrinked in such a way that you have to cut it a part, and good luck figuring out how to reuse it.

Undaunted, I went back to fishing the romex through and eventually found the path through near the front of the tank, and managed to get everything thing back in place. Something about the way the feeder hose was lying on the passenger side of the tank, didn't quite look right, and it didn't appear that the hose really wanted to recover from the crease, so I didn't expect I'd seen the last of this. In any case, the car started, and VIDA sees about 35% duty cycle at idle so I guess that is good.

Drove it around it a bit, and it was fine for a while. Then it started acting up again - never even pushed it past 5 psi. of boost. But I noticed it seemed like the fuel starvation was more related to car movement/postiion than just hard acceleration. I note that I had been keepng the gas in the tank on the low side so it didn't make a mess every time I pulled the pump assy out. This time, even a steep hill seemed to trigger it. Maybe there is some fuel starvation or a kinked hose? But it was late afternoon, and I didn't want to strand myself at night with snow all over the shoulders of the road, so I called it a day. Got it back in the garage, and noticed a REM-4A37 code(Fuel level sensor signal too high/signal missing). Sigh. At least tomorrow is Saturday.

 

[kirchster]

Pulled the driver's side float assembly back out today- looks like maybe the float got tangled up in the wires a bit. Cleared the REM-4A37, and it didn't come back. Drove it around gingerly, and it dropped out several times, and then started stalling on coast down before red lights. I could hear the pump spinning up and VIDA showed the duty cycle up around 85%, and the fuel pressure way below 400 kPa and falling. This time I got an ECM-211a code (signal missing). It's very repeatable now - happens in the driveway every time - speed up to 20. let off the gas and wait a sec, the fuel pressure starts falling, and the duty cycle goes to the max. I even think I hear kind of a whistling sound in the tank. Put a pressure tester on the fuel rail and confirmed that the fuel pressure was indeed sagging when VIDA indicated so. Since I can hear the Aeromotive pump spin up, I'm thinking I may have an in-tank leak on one end of that corrugated fuel tube between the pump and the assembly top. Ugh. That'll have to wait for another day.

I also took a look at the old fuel pump assy (the one I fixed earlier with quiksteel). The insulation on the wires were starting to crack, so I decided to see if I could salvage the big looped hose that feeds over to the driver's side. I was able to remove the electrical connector ends that attach to the float with a small screwdriver, and pull them back through the harness. Then I sat the assy in a large cottage cheese container, and dumped in two coffee cups of microwaved water. After about a minute, I was able to pry the hose off the little yellow barbed connector at the base of the white canister. So now I have a replacement for the one I kinked up the other day - if I need it.

 

[thegrapist]

Are you 100% sure this stuff (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/abt-cfd402/overview/) is submersible? I had a similar issue years ago with being given fuel line that was not submersible and it would work for a few days until the line would rot and then I would lose fuel pressure. The submersible fuel line has the same treatment or protection on the inside that it does on the outside. Regular fuel line does not.

I couldn't find any locally except ordered through Napa. Hopefully you have one by you. This is what I used : http://www.napabeltshose.com/~/media/NAPA/Documents/NAPA Submersible hose.ashx

part number H209

I just looped the hose the same way the stock hose was, it didn't seem like it was going to collapse or kink and has been good for about 200 miles.

 

[kirchster]

That's a fair point. I assumed it was, because, unlike some of the hoses which are only treated on one side, it looks to be uniform. I just pulled everything back out again, and the first thing I noticed was the basket was full of black crap - big chunks.
I pulled the filter(which has <100 miles on it), and back drained it - it would hardly pull air from the injector side when I turned it over, and I got some pretty gray stuff. I'm not sure if I've had a contaminated tank all along (the last filter had 10k miles on it, the gas that came out was clean, but I replaced it anyway just to be sure), or if all this crap got dislodged when I was snaking around with that romex the other day(which seem mostly likely). The plastic tube on the pump *looks* fine. I'm gonna take it apart because I'm sure the screen on the bottom inside the assy is full of crap too. The big question is what now? Should I rig up a siphon, stir up the tank real good and try to get as much as I can out, or do I need to have the tank pulled and properly cleaned. I think option B is the proper thing to do, but I'm not familiar with situation, how much that costs, yada yada yada....

 

[thegrapist]

After I did my pump I moved the car a few feet and then pulled the pump again. There was so much black crap left in it. And that was after hitting it with compressed air and brake cleaner like crazy. I think it falls into the pickup filter, which is all the more reason to get the aeromotive pump that requires no filing. After pulling it out and draining the pump assembly a lot came out. I'm hoping that was enough to prevent the fuel filter from being clogged. I intend to change my fuel filter when I replace the pump with the 320LPH pump and do it again a few hundred miles and full tanks later.

 

[StealthyS60R]

Isn't there a second pump to draw fuel from the other side of the tank and keep the bucket filled? Is that pump working properly to do so and keep it filled?

By cutting the bucket in half have you eliminated its ability to keep the pump in a several inch deep bucket of fuel?

 

[kirchster]

Yes, you are correct about the transfer pump, but I think you misunderstand what I cut. Inside the bucket is a black plastic assembly with two "holes" for each of the pumps to sit in It's kind of like a center post with two straps(kind of a figure 8), which are about an inch wide. They don't go all the way to the base. I just cut the side of one of them(the main pump) because I couldn't pry the pump up and out. I might try a little harder next time. When I put it back together, I used a 3.5" band clamp (like a big hose clamp) around the black figure eight, and then dropped the whole thing back into the bucket. It clears just fine.

I took pictures of all of this, but I can't figure to how to upload them directly from my computer, and I've been to busy to mess with pushing them somewhere else first. If somebody can tell me how, I'll upload them, and you'll understand very quickly.

 

[kirchster]

A friend of mine pointed out I should be using a ground strap in addition to disconnecting the battery because the winter air is dry and static can cause sparks, Hat's off to him for that.
It's actually a pretty warm day here with snow melting all over, but my humidity meter still only said 35%, so I also sprayed water all around the car (in the garage with all the doors open).
The reading went up to about 54%.

So I found a Harbor Freight transfer pump I bought for something and never used, so I pumped out just about everything from both sides of the tank. Then I took a couple of micro fiber towels
and sort of mopped out both sides of the tank until they were completely dry(you can sort of swish around and reach pretty far in). I really didn't find much crap. Looked around with a mirror and light - it's
clean in there. I think most of the remaining crap got sucked up by the transfer pump - can't really tell cuz it's in a gas can. Took the pump assy apart for the umpteenth time, and cleaned out
the basket, and sprayed off the screen with MAF cleaner. The kinked hose seems to have mostly recovered. Ordered another filter.

My hunch is that the crap was in the tank not bothering anything until I fished around and stirred everything up. Whatever the case, there's no crap left in there now.

 

[kirchster]

When I was changing the filter last weekend, I noticed some black stuff drained out of the engine side, so I figured it could have made it all the way to the injectors. This past week I bought a cheap boroscope off Amazon so I could make sure the tank was clean, and I pulled the rail and the injectors. When I tapped the injectors on a clean cardboard box, I got some gray stuff out of them (actually got a 1/8" square of something out of one of them), so I sent them off to for ultrasonic cleaning, new baskets(little screens inside each injector) and gaskets. Today, I looked inside the tank with the scope, and found a few crumbs, but it was pretty clean. I blew out all the fuel lines with compressed air just to be sure, and reinstalled the pump and new filter. It's very nice to have all the fuel out when you do this - you can make sure everything is just right (sticking my hands in gas is just subconsciously not that appealing), so that is one of my take aways from this whole fuel pump ordeal - do yourself a favor - pump the tank out and make sure it's clean inside before you stick a new pump in. I also bought new gas can so I could pour out the gas I pumped out (I filtered it with a paper towel in the funnel). Yep - I definitely pumped out about a teaspoon of black/gray stuff. Someone suggested to me that it could be from protective braid on the pump suction tube decaying over the years. Whatever it was, it was destined for the filter, and now it's not.

Now I await the return of the injectors.

 

[kirchster]

Sorry for the gap - I had a bit of a medical issue that knocked me down for a few weeks. Anyway, I got the injectors back a bit ago, with a note saying that they definitely had some debris in them. I put them back in, and have had *absolutely no issues* with this car for the first 100 miles since then. I'm gonna give it a bit longer before I say that my problems are over, but this is the best the car has run in months. No hiccups or hestations under full throttle all the way to redline. I see no evidence of any issues when I connect up VIDA either. I'm not sure what the sequence of events leading up to this nightmare was, but after all this fooling around I've got a new fuel pump assembly with the Aeromotive 11165 pump, a new fuel filter, a new FPS, a clean tank, and cleaned injectors with new baskets/O-rings (once I got them back it was very obvious to me that the baskets had been packed with God only knows what - I could really see into the supply end after they were cleaned.) Obviously a bunch of stuff got past a filter at some point. In hindsight, the worst part of this was the back and forth with fuel pump(4 times). With 120k on the car, it now seems dumb to have just attacked this piece-meal - I should have just done it all at the same time and planned on it being down for a week instead of screwing around for two months. Pulling the injectors was really easy, and having them cleaned and tested seems to have been the critical step. And if you are gonna do that, pumping the tank out make sure it's clean and putting on a new filter will make sure that whatever crap caused it the first time won't bite you a 2nd or 3rd time.

 

[mJrO]

So, my fuel pump was on its way out and causing codes, and I didn't feel like paying for a full assembly since just the pump is not available. The cheapest one on rockauto is over $200, close to the cost of an OEM pump module from tasca.

I noticed on the Viva site that there is an Aeromotive upgrade pump (340 lph) that fits the stock assembly for cosiderably less money than the stock replacement options.

http://www.vivaperformance.com/aeromotive-fuel-pump-upgrade-volvo-s60r-v70r/

The site says that there is some "shaving" of the stock module to make it fit, but I could find no info on previous attempts to fit this pump. It is an Aeromotive P/N 11142.

So, I removed the pump assembly in the same way I would if I were replacing the assemby, and here is what it looks like:



4. Release the hose going from the transfer pump (clipped into the side of the white cup) while pulling the pump holder out of the white cup.

So dumbass here... managed to break the yellow nipple where from number 4 step above... any way to salvage this? Or do I need a new sender unit?

You can see on the original picture the yellow thingy on the side of the fuel sender/holder

 

[Bigfieroman]

So dumbass here... managed to break the yellow nipple where from number 4 step above... any way to salvage this? Or do I need a new sender unit?

You can see on the original picture the yellow thingy on the side of the fuel sender/holder

Pretty sure that is only sold as part of the assembly.

That being said, I have a spare sender assembly for sale...

 

[thegrapist]

As he said it's only sold in one piece. If you want just the top though I can send that to you if you pay shipping. I used it to seal my tank when a bad fuel pump took me an extra night.

 

[CKAVolvo]

Agree 100 percent and know from my own experience. Ard will have you change anything and everything before admitting its the tune.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Be prepared for PEm problems. Not all will have it but its starting to show up with the pump upgrade

 

[mJrO]

Working again - ordered a replacement used fuel sender from an NA s60 and scavanged the part ... cost was about 10USD/EUR

Some pics of the install

Here you can see the white "T" barb fitting that I managed to break

It's alive!!!!

Also, if anyone wonders the polarity of the pump is the same as the OEM one.

12v (red pump wire) - S60 blue wire
Ground (black pump wire) - S60 black wire

 

[stanislaw.kulczyk]

A tip for people who would like replace fuel pump in their volvos (mine is xc90 3.2 2013): walbro gss342 is a good choice. Just some "sculpting" in the black pump holder with dremel (1mm of difference in diameter), shortening the inner end of the floater's arm (it hits the pump's body so a sufficient solution is to cut 2-3 mm of it). No codes, no problems - everything works just fine