How do you get the old fuel pump out of the Inner black housing?

Thanks for this post. I'm going to relay my story because I haven't found one exactly like it on-line.

My 2004 V70R 6M (mine since new, now about 120k, well maintained, garage kept) was feeling a bit tired last spring. Mostly a bad TCV, but while I was in there, I did the O2 sensors, all the vacuum hoses, and decided to do an ARD tune and downpipe. HUGE! improvement, except for one little niggling issue - kind of a hard throttle stumble periodically around 5200 rpm. Before I could figure out what the issue was, my daughter smelled gas one day, and sure enough I discovered gas leaking down near the fuel filter. Dug around a bit, and figured out that the fuel pump housing, near where the hoses connect up top, was leaking, somewhere near that round thing on the top with the "plus" in it.

I got a new Volvo fuel pump, swapped it in, and it was fine for a few days. Then one day, just after lightly hitting the gas from a coast before a red light, the bottom just fell out for a second- felt like and old carbureted car with a bad accelerator pump. It recovered, and I was left scratching my head. It did it a few more times over the next couple of days, and then I got a P0089 code (fuel pressure regulator performance). I replaced the fuel filter, checked the PEM(which was *very* clean inside), and decided to replace the FPS. I reset the code, figuring I probably had solved the problem. In a sense, I did - now I get no more error codes, but a few days later, it acted up really badly in slow traffic (violent jerking under very light throttle), and even stalled out.

I left work early midday to nurse it home, and it ran fine, but I garaged it, and ordered VIDA/DICE 2014D. Took a while to get it, but once I hooked it up, there were ECM 261a and 211a codes, which I assume were associated with the previous P0189. I reset them, and they've never come back. I messed around with VIDA, and the only thing I noticed that struck me as strange was the fuel pump duty cycle at idle - at 400kPA pressure, the duty cycle was about 44%, and would creep up to about 47% after the car was warm. I decided to repair(probably temporarily) the old pump with QuikSteel - since I had the old pump out, I cleaned it up really well, and felt confident that I could repair it well enough to see what the idle duty cycle was. Everything went well, and with the old repaired pump assy in, I had no leaks, and a 36% duty cycle at idle with 400kPa. I drove for a few hours on a Saturday, and could not get it to misbehave. The following day, I tried again, and the problem came back with a vengeance.

Multiple hard stabs on the accelerator at about 3000rpm, caused severe "hiccuping" and kind of a violent limit cycle response. I caught it all on VIDA graphs. It appears the fuel pressure doesn't track the duty cycle like one might expect.

So I guess I've now possibly got two fuel pumps, both of which are not capable of supporting the ARD tune. I've ordered one of these Aeromotive drop-ins, and today I decided to try to disassemble the newer of the two fuel pump assys (which happens to be out of the car right now). I've got the inner black part that holds both pumps out of the outer white part. I can't get the pump to budge from the black part. I even took off the screen on the bottom to see if there was a hidden screw or something(there wasn't) - the screen was surprisingly full of some gray stuff that looked like graphite when I wiped it away- kinda surprising for only several hundred miles. Anyway, is that pump glued in, or is it just some crazy friction from that black plastic band that wraps around it? In the mean time, I sprayed some teflon lubricant att he junction between the band and the pump. I'll try again tomorrow.

 

Thanks for this post. I'm going to relay my story because I haven't found one exactly like it on-line.

My 2004 V70R 6M (mine since new, now about 120k, well maintained, garage kept) was feeling a bit tired last spring. Mostly a bad TCV, but while I was in there, I did the O2 sensors, all the vacuum hoses, and decided to do an ARD tune and downpipe. HUGE! improvement, except for one little niggling issue - kind of a hard throttle stumble periodically around 5200 rpm. Before I could figure out what the issue was, my daughter smelled gas one day, and sure enough I discovered gas leaking down near the fuel filter. Dug around a bit, and figured out that the fuel pump housing, near where the hoses connect up top, was leaking, somewhere near that round thing on the top with the "plus" in it.

I got a new Volvo fuel pump, swapped it in, and it was fine for a few days. Then one day, just after lightly hitting the gas from a coast before a red light, the bottom just fell out for a second- felt like and old carbureted car with a bad accelerator pump. It recovered, and I was left scratching my head. It did it a few more times over the next couple of days, and then I got a P0089 code (fuel pressure regulator performance). I replaced the fuel filter, checked the PEM(which was *very* clean inside), and decided to replace the FPS. I reset the code, figuring I probably had solved the problem. In a sense, I did - now I get no more error codes, but a few days later, it acted up really badly in slow traffic (violent jerking under very light throttle), and even stalled out.

I left work early midday to nurse it home, and it ran fine, but I garaged it, and ordered VIDA/DICE 2014D. Took a while to get it, but once I hooked it up, there were ECM 261a and 211a codes, which I assume were associated with the previous P0189. I reset them, and they've never come back. I messed around with VIDA, and the only thing I noticed that struck me as strange was the fuel pump duty cycle at idle - at 400kPA pressure, the duty cycle was about 44%, and would creep up to about 47% after the car was warm. I decided to repair(probably temporarily) the old pump with QuikSteel - since I had the old pump out, I cleaned it up really well, and felt confident that I could repair it well enough to see what the idle duty cycle was. Everything went well, and with the old repaired pump assy in, I had no leaks, and a 36% duty cycle at idle with 400kPa. I drove for a few hours on a Saturday, and could not get it to misbehave. The following day, I tried again, and the problem came back with a vengeance.

Multiple hard stabs on the accelerator at about 3000rpm, caused severe "hiccuping" and kind of a violent limit cycle response. I caught it all on VIDA graphs. It appears the fuel pressure doesn't track the duty cycle like one might expect.

So I guess I've now possibly got two fuel pumps, both of which are not capable of supporting the ARD tune. I've ordered one of these Aeromotive drop-ins, and today I decided to try to disassemble the newer of the two fuel pump assys (which happens to be out of the car right now). I've got the inner black part that holds both pumps out of the outer white part. I can't get the pump to budge from the black part. I even took off the screen on the bottom to see if there was a hidden screw or something(there wasn't) - the screen was surprisingly full of some gray stuff that looked like graphite when I wiped it away- kinda surprising for only several hundred miles. Anyway, is that pump glued in, or is it just some crazy friction from that black plastic band that wraps around it? In the mean time, I sprayed some teflon lubricant att he junction between the band and the pump. I'll try again tomorrow.

Issue her is the tune. That company doesn't know what they are doing and will ruin your wallet and car. I bet if you tried someone elses or stock issue would be gone.

 

If you are getting stutter at peak power band it could be coils too. Monitor your fuel pressure with vida while reproducing the stutter, and if the pressure looks good and steady shift your focus to the coils. They can misfire bad enough to cause a stutter and still not trigger a misfire code strangely enough, as some of us discovered the hard way.

 

The stock pump has a tight press fit at the bottom where the intake orifice is. Dont be shy, use a screwdriver to separate the pump from the black carrier.

 

I may be going this route real soon, so this is timely.
Sent from my rotor-dial phone with the help of Cortana.

 

In case someone is interested there is an aftermarket unit available from Skandix: http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-part...uel-mixture-formation/fuel-supply-system/pumps/fuel-feed-unit-electric/1053793/
Based on the Volvo part number I got from the local dealership 30761744, this fuel feed unit is the exact match: 1053793 (Skandix prod number),Plug and Play and made in Sweeden. I'm using the Skandix unit since 3 days, without any issues.
As I still have the old pump unit from my 04 VR, and might going to upgrade this old one with the Aeromotive pump.

 

Haha, the screwdriver seemed like the obvious route, but I was starting to chew up the base. I tried heating it with a blow drier (yes - I hung this thing every which way for about 7 days to get all the gas out of it), and forcing a small screw driver between the band and the pump to see if I could stretch it. I did, a little, but I couldn't get it to budge. Since I have two pump assys now, I decided to slice the band open. Even then, it didn't exactly fall out. Now I'm waiting on the aeromotive pump to arrive. I'm thinking I'll get a big screw type band clamp to put around the whole inner black assy to keep every thing in place - maybe that way I won't have to fool around with hogging out the inside of the black band I cut open. It looks like there is enough clearance in there to get away with that, at least with the stock pump. It could be tight if the aeromotive pump is more than a hair larger in diameter.

It does look like I'll have to slice open the fuel line from the pump to top of the assy and replace it with a fuel hose. It looks like the fittings are barbed - I guess I should put hose clamps around them as well.

One more thing - while I'm not totally sure this is gonna fix tall he issue, I'm pretty sure this is at least somewhat related to fuel(as opposed to coils). I sent Lucky at ARD the VIDA graph, and he agreed this was the starting place.

Thanks for all the responses.

 

Haha, the screwdriver seemed like the obvious route, but I was starting to chew up the base. I tried heating it with a blow drier (yes - I hung this thing every which way for about 7 days to get all the gas out of it), and forcing a small screw driver between the band and the pump to see if I could stretch it. I did, a little, but I couldn't get it to budge. Since I have two pump assys now, I decided to slice the band open. Even then, it didn't exactly fall out. Now I'm waiting on the aeromotive pump to arrive. I'm thinking I'll get a big screw type band clamp to put around the whole inner black assy to keep every thing in place - maybe that way I won't have to fool around with hogging out the inside of the black band I cut open. It looks like there is enough clearance in there to get away with that, at least with the stock pump. It could be tight if the aeromotive pump is more than a hair larger in diameter.

It does look like I'll have to slice open the fuel line from the pump to top of the assy and replace it with a fuel hose. It looks like the fittings are barbed - I guess I should put hose clamps around them as well.

One more thing - while I'm not totally sure this is gonna fix all the issues, I'm pretty sure this is at least somewhat related to fuel(as opposed to coils). I sent Lucky at ARD the VIDA graph, and he agreed this was the starting place.

Thanks for all the responses.

 

I have done the Aeromotive upgrade, sounds like you are on the right track, the pump comes with a hose and uses the stock wiring, it is only a hair larger but I spent a while carefully getting it to fit perfectly. My original pump came out with no issues. There is more info in my build thread and some photos but its a pretty easy job.

 

Take the pump back out and make SURE you didn't kink the fuel hose crossing over the tank. This happens more often than you'd think, and will cause this EXACT problem. Just happened to me, and happens at the dealership all the time. This is a good way to break a lot more **** if you don't double check this simple little thing.

 

How can you really tell? I pulled a small wire through when I pulled the old pump out, and then pulled the new one back through in reverse. Done it twice now, the 2nd time paying more attention to this, and it seemed easy and straight forward enough.

Regarding the ARD tune - I'm not willing to blame any of this on the tune yet - honestly, this car is generally driven very lightly, and has had a relatively easy life, and before I got to the ARD tune, I would say (I'm 54 now) it was already the most costly car to maintain I've ever had. It's also the most complex - there *is* a lesson there. I do think that to pinch a few more HP out of a car like this with a tune, all the parts involved have to be up to snuff. Thus far, with 120K+ miles on it, there's nothing I've had to replace (driveability-wise) that I can't find tons of failures threads on even for stock tunes - just do a search on V70 fuel pumps, FPS, PEM, coils, plugs, and you'll see what I mean. But you guys already know this, so I'm just trying to keep a level head for now. I don't like futzing around with this any more than the next guy, but my old fuel pump *did* have a crack in it, so I had to replace it. I can't blame that on a tune. And the duty cycle on the new one I bought was almost 10% higher than the old one - would a pinched crossover cause that? Maybe. Or it might just be a defective new pump. Anyway, before the old pump starting leaking, the car did run great - the little hiccup at 5200 rpm didn't happen all that often, and it sure felt like a fuel issue. So, at this point, I'm willing to put in the Aeromotive pump, and even do all the coils because none of it seems out of character for this car.

But I do appreciate all the perspectives and experience.

 

My comments are based on my experience. My car was running great had car tuned by ard n yhen had issues. They would not refund my money and put me back to stock or partial refund. I went back to stock tune bc I was afraud issues w/tune would damage car and it ran fine after. I used to tune my dsm on my own and as Ive said before if your car runs great then you tune and have issues its usually a direct effect of a parameter you changed. Yes parts do go bad but if your not sure about what your doing dont charge n refuse to give ppl money back for an inferior product. Every other tuner ive worked with fixed issues that came up.

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Has anyone logged a significant amount of miles on one of these aeromotive pumps? I'm just wondering about the service life compared to stock.

 

Aeromotive has been making high performance fuel system parts for a long time and ppl use them in very hard and high performance applications so I wouldnt worry

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I got my Aeromotive 11165 (not the 11142 mentioned above) a couple of nights ago, coincident with the late arrival of winter here. While it's listed 325 lph vice 340 lph, it *really* is a drop in fit. Perfect. That's about all I've done at this point, as I don't relish the idea of bathing in <32 deg F gasoline.

 

While it's listed 325 lph vice 340 lph, it *really* is a drop in fit.

Maybe I missed it, but what's the stock lph?

edit: KillerB says "255LPH on all Volvos" from http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?178666-Stock-fuel-pump

 

I wish I had known this before I ordered. I would've loved to have a drop-in pump rather than having to modify the stock pump assembly.

 

Does anyone know what size the fuel line is that fits this pump? I don't have the pump with me and have to go to the parts store.

Edit: it's 5/16" fuel line. Just make sure you get submersible hose.

 

I ordered a couple of these while waiting for a warm enough day to pull the old, repaired pump out of the car again: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/abt-cfd402/overview/

I've learned over the years that on cheap stuff in unfamiliar territory, buy two, cuz you'll screw one of them up. And I did - getting this over the barbed fitting at the top of the pump assy is near impossible without heat, and don't even think about using a blow dryer - one hot spot, and it's over. Now take the other one, microwave a coffee cup full of water for 2 minutes, stick the end you are gonna push on in it for 30 seconds, put the supplied band clamp over it, and it'll go on pretty easily. The pump end is even easier. This tube is about 1.5" longer than the tube on the stock assy, so I carefully compared and copied the bends to make sure I was putting it all back together in a way that wouldn't cause me problems when I reinstalled the whole thing. I reused the web mesh from the original tube, and even added a piece of split corrugated protector around the tube where it passes over the edge of the white canister. Pretty happy with this part.

Now for the "dumb ass" part of the story. When I pulled the pump assy out to compare as I was rebuilding the newer unit with the Aeromotive pump, I somehow managed to drop the wire I attach to the driver side pigtail hose back in the tank. Now I had to screw around for 20 minutes figuring out how to push a piece of 14-2 romex through from one side to the other without really being able to see what I was doing. Eventually, I got it to fish through, sighed a breath of relief, and went about reassembling the unit with the Aeromotve pump. I used a 3.5" band clamp round the two motors to make up for cutting the plastic band when I took the old pump out. It fit fine. I thread locked it, and the two clamps that came with the summit tube, but wanted to let it cure for a few days before sticking it back in gasoline.

Fast forward to the next warm day: I fiddled and fussed around trying to getting everything to go back the tank, and it just wouldn't. I'd done it twice before, and it was so easy I didn't give it a second thought. Now something was binding that pigtail hose that goes to the other side. I took the other pump unit and laid it on top and noticed that the curve of the hose points toward the front of the car, but the path I had fished the romex through was farther back. I suddenly had a hot flash thinking about TyleR89's comment above about kinking the fuel hose. Yep! this is how you do it. I pulled it back out, and sure enough all my pushing and tugging had put a nice crease in the hose of the brand freaking new pump assy. I looked more closely at the old assy to see if I could steal the hose off it, but all this stuff is heat shrinked in such a way that you have to cut it a part, and good luck figuring out how to reuse it.

Undaunted, I went back to fishing the romex through and eventually found the path through near the front of the tank, and managed to get everything thing back in place. Something about the way the feeder hose was lying on the passenger side of the tank, didn't quite look right, and it didn't appear that the hose really wanted to recover from the crease, so I didn't expect I'd seen the last of this. In any case, the car started, and VIDA sees about 35% duty cycle at idle so I guess that is good.

Drove it around it a bit, and it was fine for a while. Then it started acting up again - never even pushed it past 5 psi. of boost. But I noticed it seemed like the fuel starvation was more related to car movement/postiion than just hard acceleration. I note that I had been keepng the gas in the tank on the low side so it didn't make a mess every time I pulled the pump assy out. This time, even a steep hill seemed to trigger it. Maybe there is some fuel starvation or a kinked hose? But it was late afternoon, and I didn't want to strand myself at night with snow all over the shoulders of the road, so I called it a day. Got it back in the garage, and noticed a REM-4A37 code(Fuel level sensor signal too high/signal missing). Sigh. At least tomorrow is Saturday.

 

Pulled the driver's side float assembly back out today- looks like maybe the float got tangled up in the wires a bit. Cleared the REM-4A37, and it didn't come back. Drove it around gingerly, and it dropped out several times, and then started stalling on coast down before red lights. I could hear the pump spinning up and VIDA showed the duty cycle up around 85%, and the fuel pressure way below 400 kPa and falling. This time I got an ECM-211a code (signal missing). It's very repeatable now - happens in the driveway every time - speed up to 20. let off the gas and wait a sec, the fuel pressure starts falling, and the duty cycle goes to the max. I even think I hear kind of a whistling sound in the tank. Put a pressure tester on the fuel rail and confirmed that the fuel pressure was indeed sagging when VIDA indicated so. Since I can hear the Aeromotive pump spin up, I'm thinking I may have an in-tank leak on one end of that corrugated fuel tube between the pump and the assembly top. Ugh. That'll have to wait for another day.

I also took a look at the old fuel pump assy (the one I fixed earlier with quiksteel). The insulation on the wires were starting to crack, so I decided to see if I could salvage the big looped hose that feeds over to the driver's side. I was able to remove the electrical connector ends that attach to the float with a small screwdriver, and pull them back through the harness. Then I sat the assy in a large cottage cheese container, and dumped in two coffee cups of microwaved water. After about a minute, I was able to pry the hose off the little yellow barbed connector at the base of the white canister. So now I have a replacement for the one I kinked up the other day - if I need it.

 

Are you 100% sure this stuff (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/abt-cfd402/overview/) is submersible? I had a similar issue years ago with being given fuel line that was not submersible and it would work for a few days until the line would rot and then I would lose fuel pressure. The submersible fuel line has the same treatment or protection on the inside that it does on the outside. Regular fuel line does not.

I couldn't find any locally except ordered through Napa. Hopefully you have one by you. This is what I used : http://www.napabeltshose.com/~/media/NAPA/Documents/NAPA Submersible hose.ashx

part number H209

I just looped the hose the same way the stock hose was, it didn't seem like it was going to collapse or kink and has been good for about 200 miles.

 

That's a fair point. I assumed it was, because, unlike some of the hoses which are only treated on one side, it looks to be uniform. I just pulled everything back out again, and the first thing I noticed was the basket was full of black crap - big chunks.
I pulled the filter(which has <100 miles on it), and back drained it - it would hardly pull air from the injector side when I turned it over, and I got some pretty gray stuff. I'm not sure if I've had a contaminated tank all along (the last filter had 10k miles on it, the gas that came out was clean, but I replaced it anyway just to be sure), or if all this crap got dislodged when I was snaking around with that romex the other day(which seem mostly likely). The plastic tube on the pump *looks* fine. I'm gonna take it apart because I'm sure the screen on the bottom inside the assy is full of crap too. The big question is what now? Should I rig up a siphon, stir up the tank real good and try to get as much as I can out, or do I need to have the tank pulled and properly cleaned. I think option B is the proper thing to do, but I'm not familiar with situation, how much that costs, yada yada yada....

 

After I did my pump I moved the car a few feet and then pulled the pump again. There was so much black crap left in it. And that was after hitting it with compressed air and brake cleaner like crazy. I think it falls into the pickup filter, which is all the more reason to get the aeromotive pump that requires no filing. After pulling it out and draining the pump assembly a lot came out. I'm hoping that was enough to prevent the fuel filter from being clogged. I intend to change my fuel filter when I replace the pump with the 320LPH pump and do it again a few hundred miles and full tanks later.

 

Isn't there a second pump to draw fuel from the other side of the tank and keep the bucket filled? Is that pump working properly to do so and keep it filled?

By cutting the bucket in half have you eliminated its ability to keep the pump in a several inch deep bucket of fuel?

 

Yes, you are correct about the transfer pump, but I think you misunderstand what I cut. Inside the bucket is a black plastic assembly with two "holes" for each of the pumps to sit in It's kind of like a center post with two straps(kind of a figure 8), which are about an inch wide. They don't go all the way to the base. I just cut the side of one of them(the main pump) because I couldn't pry the pump up and out. I might try a little harder next time. When I put it back together, I used a 3.5" band clamp (like a big hose clamp) around the black figure eight, and then dropped the whole thing back into the bucket. It clears just fine.

I took pictures of all of this, but I can't figure to how to upload them directly from my computer, and I've been to busy to mess with pushing them somewhere else first. If somebody can tell me how, I'll upload them, and you'll understand very quickly.

 

A friend of mine pointed out I should be using a ground strap in addition to disconnecting the battery because the winter air is dry and static can cause sparks, Hat's off to him for that.
It's actually a pretty warm day here with snow melting all over, but my humidity meter still only said 35%, so I also sprayed water all around the car (in the garage with all the doors open).
The reading went up to about 54%.

So I found a Harbor Freight transfer pump I bought for something and never used, so I pumped out just about everything from both sides of the tank. Then I took a couple of micro fiber towels
and sort of mopped out both sides of the tank until they were completely dry(you can sort of swish around and reach pretty far in). I really didn't find much crap. Looked around with a mirror and light - it's
clean in there. I think most of the remaining crap got sucked up by the transfer pump - can't really tell cuz it's in a gas can. Took the pump assy apart for the umpteenth time, and cleaned out
the basket, and sprayed off the screen with MAF cleaner. The kinked hose seems to have mostly recovered. Ordered another filter.

My hunch is that the crap was in the tank not bothering anything until I fished around and stirred everything up. Whatever the case, there's no crap left in there now.

 

When I was changing the filter last weekend, I noticed some black stuff drained out of the engine side, so I figured it could have made it all the way to the injectors. This past week I bought a cheap boroscope off Amazon so I could make sure the tank was clean, and I pulled the rail and the injectors. When I tapped the injectors on a clean cardboard box, I got some gray stuff out of them (actually got a 1/8" square of something out of one of them), so I sent them off to for ultrasonic cleaning, new baskets(little screens inside each injector) and gaskets. Today, I looked inside the tank with the scope, and found a few crumbs, but it was pretty clean. I blew out all the fuel lines with compressed air just to be sure, and reinstalled the pump and new filter. It's very nice to have all the fuel out when you do this - you can make sure everything is just right (sticking my hands in gas is just subconsciously not that appealing), so that is one of my take aways from this whole fuel pump ordeal - do yourself a favor - pump the tank out and make sure it's clean inside before you stick a new pump in. I also bought new gas can so I could pour out the gas I pumped out (I filtered it with a paper towel in the funnel). Yep - I definitely pumped out about a teaspoon of black/gray stuff. Someone suggested to me that it could be from protective braid on the pump suction tube decaying over the years. Whatever it was, it was destined for the filter, and now it's not.

Now I await the return of the injectors.