Ryan,

you are planning to do the following

High Mileage Maintenance items for 3.2
1. Serpentine belt, tensioner, idler
3. Coolant replaced

Typical repairs for high mileage 3.2
A) Thermostat - (I also replaced two coolant hoses)

I recommend that you also consider

High Mileage Maintenance items for 3.2
2. Brake fluid flushed
4. AWD Rear differential oil change (every 50,000 miles) - I added a magnetic drain plug
5. ATF fluid flushed
6. Power steering fluid and reservoir replaced due to noisy heavy steering
7. Spark Plugs -
8. AWD BOT Gear oil for power Transfer unit (for mine I drilled a drain hole)
9. Battery - every 4 to 8 years
10. O-Rings for Vacuum pump
11. AWD Haldex fluid and filter
12. AWD Replace CV joint grease in drive shaft joint near catalytic converter

Typical repairs for high mileage 3.2
B) Fuel pressure sending unit
C) PCV valve
D) Engine mounts
E) AC Compressor clutch pack
F) Ignition coils
G) Radiator Fan
H) Wheel Bearings
I) Anti-Drain back valve in oil canister housing failure

See this link for reference on what I did on my S80 and LR2

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32504.html

Good Luck

Paul

 

Nearly everything Paul mentioned is what I did to my XC at 140K. I would also add:
Engine:
- Seafoam the engine to reduce/remove build-up.
- Replace fuel filter
- Replace spark plugs & coils

Tires:
- Replace TPMS sensors. They're only good for about 10 years and will being to throw false information at the info display.

General Body:
- Lubricate all door seals.
- Check the hood and lift gate struts. Especially in the cold. Nothing worse than having them slam down on your head.

 

Since you are specifically looking at the serpentine belt area, it is a good idea to take a look at the vacuum pump if there is any oil leaking. You get a better view with the serpentine belt parts out of the way. I replaced the o-rings in mine when I did the serpentine belt. It is a good time to change the power steering fluid.

You will get a lot of the coolant out when you do the lower hose. I recommend using genuine Volvo coolant to replace as it is spec'd for 10yrs. I sometimes save money in other European cars using Zerex, but I probably won't change the coolant again until closer to 200k miles, so why save a few dollars when you can trust Volvo.

Tools
-Sometimes it is a pain to remove the plastic connector side of the coolant hose because the inner o-ring sticks. Don't manhandle it because you could break other parts. See if you can get a flathead screwdriver or other tools to help pry to separate.
-When you receive the new tensioner, go find the right size wrench that is needed to unload it. I don't remember, but it could be 19mm, 22mm, or other.
-I used ~8in (maybe 10in) 3/8 extension and flex joint to get to the thermostat bolts.
-The coupler needs a thin bit driver. Ensure you have the right size torx.

Then just follow the steps: https://workshop-manuals.com/volvo/...cooling_and_exhaust/engine/water_pump/component_information/service_and_repair/

 

Thanks, all!

Tools:
I've a long SK T50 torx bit, and a Hazet H2592 splined adapter for the decoupler. Again, I'd done a bunch of research for the special tools listed in VIDA, and arrived at these tools, but I can't recall how I figured out these specific tools from the Volvo tool numbers. Volvo says 19mm for the belt tensioner. When I started doping A/C work on the old cars, I bought some really big combo wrenches. I should have that covered.

What I've done so far on this car:

-PCV system
-spark plugs
-Brakes (fluid, rotors, pads)
-One coolant drain and fill (I've only been using Volvo coolant for at least a decade on all the old Volvos in the fleet)



What I'm working on:

Replacing fluids in Transmission (drain and fill: Two cases of Toyota T-IV)
PS Fluid drain and fills. I Need to clean out the reservoir.
Bevel gear (fluids in house)
Haldex Fluid and filter (parts ordered)
Rear diff (fluids in house)
I'm going to try and replace the 6 manifold seals and throttle body seal without removing the manifold from the car. (Parts in house)



Vacuum pup "looks good". No weep oil weeping. If the pump does show leaking on closer inspection, I'll tackle that soon after.

Glad I asked here. I was planning to do the fuel pressure sender, but forgot to add it to my shopping list. Thanks, Paul!

Thanks, guys!

-Ryan

 

Great! But did you service the parking brake expanders? They can rust and accumulate brake dust and grime. Then they can stick open. Just remove, clean with PB blaster or similar, then lube pivot points with a dry lube or lithium. There are youtube videos on how to do it, such as this one:

Don't forget the most important change is the Volvo specific blinker fluid (j/k)

 

Ohhhhh... the parking brakes came all apart and got cleaned. A rusty ridge had formed on the inside edge of the drum, so it was a PITA to get the rear rotors off the car. Never seen anything like it. The parking brake shoes came off with the rotors, and I got to learn how to replace the silly little springs that hold the shoes to the hub.

Nearly everything Paul mentioned is what I did to my XC at 140K. I would also add:
Engine:
- Seafoam the engine to reduce/remove build-up.
- Replace fuel filter
- Replace spark plugs & coils

Tires:
- Replace TPMS sensors. They're only good for about 10 years and will being to throw false information at the info display.

General Body:
- Lubricate all door seals.
- Check the hood and lift gate struts. Especially in the cold. Nothing worse than having them slam down on your head.

I did do the fuel filter. What a treat! So easy to do. My RWD's almost always require an impact wrench to get the filter off. Spark plugs are new last summer. The 75K mile replacement interval is waaaaay to ambitious. TPMS sensors will have to wait. The tires look to be brand new on this one. We got it last May, and someone fortuitously put new (and nice) tires on it for us.

For now, I just bought a new, spare coil from Volvo for an emergency. I just dumped many monies on the parts listed above. I'll buy the rest this summer.

Thanks again!

Stay tuned!

-Ryan

 

Regardless of how much money you put into it unanticipated problems will arise. I would just do the maintenance as laid out in the maintenance schedule and keep the extra money in your pocket until needed.

 

Totally agree. Just trying to find a sweet spot with the preventative maintenance.

-Ryan

 

Ryan,

Take a look at this post that a friend of mine wrote for the serpentine belt replacement

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33363.html

The items that you listed are the right things to consider, because Land Rover uses the same engine as Volvo you can use the Land Rover Parts if they are cheaper.

For my LR2 I replaced the belt at 10 years and 113,000 miles

For my S80 I replaced the belt at 9 years and 123,000 miles

Note: I didn't replace the over-drive pulley or the water pump (But I have an over-drive pulley ready to go if I need to replace it)

You also mentioned the Thermostat.

I recommend that you change the Thermostat on a different day from the Belt (unless you can get your hands in there to do it with the intake manifold in place, removing the headlight may help)

Here is Thermostat procedure

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32245.html

The Land Rover Thermostat is the same part as the Volvo Thermostat but it is significantly cheaper.

Good Luck

Paul

 

Thanks!

I'm using a combination of Genuine and aftermarket parts. FCP Euro has INA overdrive and tensioner pulleys. Very cheap next to Volvo. Everything else is genuine Volvo from Tasca.

Looks to be lots of room to access the thermostat/housing on the XC90 if you have just the right length socket extension. I figure since I'm doing the water pump, I'd get the T-stat done and not have to open the cooling system up again. I've already done one drain and fill of coolant. This last one should get it pretty much up to date. Amazed that Volvo says this is a lifetime coolant. It's still an ethylene-glycol coolant. Volvo only recently changed the formula. In 2011 when this car was new, Volvo was still using the same stuff they'd been using for decades.

-Ryan

 

I'll try to get some pics when I do it.

-Ryan

 

This 2011 is new to me at 134K miles, so everything is due.

Bevel gear and rear Diff will get new Volvo juice. Volvo is selling a full synthetic for the job, so you might as well use genuine fluids. Not much to save with aftermarket. Gear oils should be good for much longer than 25K miles.

I have new Haldex fluid and a filter to hope I can get in.

I'll be flushing 12 quarts of Toyota T-IV through the transmission (drain and fill once a weekend until 12 quarts have gone through). Then drain and fill the transmission with every oil change thereafter.

The new spark plugs used in the "S5" version of the 3.2L looked scary with "only" 60K on them. These are 50K mile plugs for sure.

I swapped the fuel pressure sensor this past weekend. Access isn't bad, but getting the T25 torx screw out is fiddle thanks to the timing chain cover. You really need those "L" shaped torx wrenches unless you're willing to pull the fuel rail. Seems that a standard M6 with a regular hex head would have worked a little better in terms of tools most people have.

-Ryan

 

Ryan,

I recently bought a 2010 S80 3.2 FWD for my son to drive.

On the other Volvo Board I am documenting what I did for Maintenance and Repairs

Note: you will need to also do the AWD items if your XC90 is so equipped

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=87687

Have Fun

Paul

 

As for the Gear oil

I agree it should last for 10 years or 150,000 miles

But the Land Rover owners are rebuilding a lot of pinion bearings in the rear differential.

Here is what I wrote back in 2013

My Freelander 2 is a 2008 with about 100,000 KM (60,000 miles) with the original bearing in the rear diff

List of changes to my Freelander

1. Changed the fluid (by siphoning as we discussed) to a heavy duty synthetic, special order Mobil 1 Delvac

2. Magnetized the bolt on the diff for filling the fluid (large magnet on the fill bolt)

3. Remove the bolt and clean off the magnetic particles collected (every month at first, less frequently lately)

I did this because of all the problems other were having.
In my case I put a large magnet on the outside of the bolt but I could have also bought a drain plug with a magnet in the center of it.
I do get some magnetic dust attached to the bolt and I did have some magnetic dust suspended in the fluid that I removed.
Also I had a lot of air in the fluid that I removed.
The original fluid should have been changed sooner than I did.

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic14659.html

Someday I am going to rebuild or replace my rear differential.

But that day is not today.

The magnet did a great job of collecting the magnetic dust and without the abrasive particle floating in the fluid the Heavy Duty Gear Oil has kept me going.

Take care

Paul