Blown charge air hose or IC pipe.

 

640D is a boost code. Check hose #5 on the bottom side for a hole. This is not uncommon to get a hole here. Normal driving the hole is closed, boost forces the hole open. The pcv oil vapors enter at the fresh air inlet for the turbo. PCV oil vapors travel thru the turbo plumbing to be burned up by the engine. Over time, oil vapor gunk will accumulate in hoes #5 low spot and soften up the hose from the inside out eventually melting thru the hose. Also check all turbo plumbing hoses, pipes and clamp placement. Clamp 7/9 or hose could be loose.
Check clamp 10 area at t-body also for being loose.

ECM-640D Turbocharger (TC) control system. Signal too low, B5244T5
Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) information ECM-640D
Condition
The engine control module (ECM) checks the boost pressure. The diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is stored if the ratio between the measured boost pressure (measured value from the boost pressure sensor before the throttle) and the calculated boost pressure (calculated value after the throttle) is incorrect.
The diagnostic trouble code (DTC) can be diagnosed when the turbocharger (TC) control system is active.
Substitute value
Reduced boost pressure.
Possible source
Damaged boost pressure sensor
Loose boost pressure sensor (the engine control module (ECM) measures the atmospheric pressure)
Air leakage downstream of the turbocharger (TC) (between the turbocharger (TC) and the electronic throttle unit)
Large air leak at the intake manifold (after the electronic throttle unit).
Fault symptom
Poor performance.

 

640D is a boost code. Check hose #5 on the bottom side for a hole. This is not uncommon to get a hole here. Normal driving the hole is closed, boost forces the hole open. The pcv oil vapors enter at the fresh air inlet for the turbo. PCV oil vapors travel thru the turbo plumbing to be burned up by the engine. Over time, oil vapor gunk will accumulate in hoes #5 low spot and soften up the hose from the inside out eventually melting thru the hose. Also check all turbo plumbing hoses, pipes and clamp placement. Clamp 7/9 or hose could be loose.
Check clamp 10 area at t-body also for being loose.
View attachment 244106


ECM-640D Turbocharger (TC) control system. Signal too low, B5244T5
Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) information ECM-640D
Condition
The engine control module (ECM) checks the boost pressure. The diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is stored if the ratio between the measured boost pressure (measured value from the boost pressure sensor before the throttle) and the calculated boost pressure (calculated value after the throttle) is incorrect.
The diagnostic trouble code (DTC) can be diagnosed when the turbocharger (TC) control system is active.
Substitute value
Reduced boost pressure.
Possible source
Damaged boost pressure sensor
Loose boost pressure sensor (the engine control module (ECM) measures the atmospheric pressure)
Air leakage downstream of the turbocharger (TC) (between the turbocharger (TC) and the electronic throttle unit)
Large air leak at the intake manifold (after the electronic throttle unit).
Fault symptom
Poor performance.

Hi!

Thanks for the very detailed response, I will for sure check this out.

But you don’t think it might be the “boost pressure relieve valve”? If it were it would have been a different trouble code? I just hope it isn’t the turbo itself…costly and time consuming.

Im trying to learn about how the system works and where the fault might be.

 

Yes, it could be the boost valve. Check the below hoses for being in place and the correct locations.
There are a few things that can cause low power and codes. Checking for what is not the problem is part of the repair process into finding what is the problem. Look for and rule out the easy stuff. It works the other way also. Throw parts at the problem only to spend hours of time and $500-$1000 in parts only to find a loose hose, clamp or other easy overlooked thing. If you hear air blowing out, that is part of the diag process. Look for escaping boost air first and go from there. The turbo waste gate valve opens and dumps boost air into the exhaust out pipe. You would probably not hear this happen. A restricted or blocked up CAT can cause no boost because no exhaust gas can escape out the tailpipe. It may turn out to not be any of the above.
Go to this site to DL a copy of Volvo VIDA. You can look up parts, repair, codes, design and function about how the various systems work. Wiring diagrams also, 2005-2014 Volvo Diagnostics – Virtual Machines, Installers and More . $5 for bandwidth download. If you find a DICE unit you can talk to the car. I use VMWare windows 10 version.

 

Yes, it could be the boost valve. Check the below hoses for being in place and the correct locations.
There are a few things that can cause low power and codes. Checking for what is not the problem is part of the repair process into finding what is the problem. Look for and rule out the easy stuff. It works the other way also. Throw parts at the problem only to spend hours of time and $500-$1000 in parts only to find a loose hose, clamp or other easy overlooked thing. If you hear air blowing out, that is part of the diag process. Look for escaping boost air first and go from there. The turbo waste gate valve opens and dumps boost air into the exhaust out pipe. You would probably not hear this happen. A restricted or blocked up CAT can cause no boost because no exhaust gas can escape out the tailpipe. It may turn out to not be any of the above.
Go to this site to DL a copy of Volvo VIDA. You can look up parts, repair, codes, design and function about how the various systems work. Wiring diagrams also, 2005-2014 Volvo Diagnostics – Virtual Machines, Installers and More . $5 for bandwidth download. If you find a DICE unit you can talk to the car. I use VMWare windows 10 version.

View attachment 244130 View attachment 244131

I just came home from work and went out to check some of the hoses. The first hose I checked was the one you mentioned, the rubber one in a bend, number 5. And as you said, this one was cracked. A little bit higher up this time but I think with the help of the oil and when I was gonna replace the condenser, I bent this pipe and most likely that made it so brittle so when the boost came later on, it blew up the hose.

I’m grateful for your help and guidance! I was afraid at first that the turbo had given up because I know it is kinda worn out but still working. So my focus was on that for starters, thinking the worst out of it all…when the trouble code came it eased my mind a little but I had to see if someone had more knowledge in the matter because my mind could not stop thinking about it.

But do you think there may be something going on in the system? I mean the intercoolers top and lower cooling lines has expanded and are now round. This will be replaced but why did they expand to begin with?

Has the turbo overcharged and the pressure relieve valve didn’t manage to dump the air fast enough so the pipes expanded over the pressure build up?

 

Glad to help and that you solved the issue. Post picture of the pipes. The pipe ends that the hose clamps on to will distort. Make sure that the inner metal ring is in place. Heat the plastic up with a hair dryer and tap the metal ring back in place if needed. The metal ring keeps the plastic end from cracking, deforming from the hose clamp pressure. The intake pipes may deform from age, heat and boost pressure. If you can get replacement pipes, replace them. If pipe are not too bad, keep using them. My son's 2005 S60 turbo just turned over 340K miles. Everything on the engine is original. I replace the t-belt, cam seals, water pump every 120K. Change oil, tire rotate, every 5K miles. At this mileage the engine oil is not black looking at the 5K oil change. Adds 1 - 1.5 qts per 5K miles. Engine, turbo, transmission all original. Daily driver, 200-500 mile a week driving. These are great cars, just needs some love.

 

Yeh I’ve changes the turbo plastic pipe that goes over the engine quite recently for a brand new original one since the last one had the fasteners broken off, so that metal thing should be in place. Will check once I change the broken hose.

I love the car so far, had one before but had to sell it. So yeh bought the same type again. I’ve done ALOT of work on it. Some things replaced because they broke but most of them have been replaced because I like to keep things in trim. Recently changed a lot in the fuel system, pump, sensors, the fuel injectors etc. it’s fun to take care of the car

here are two pictures I took of the broken hose. Still attached though so hard to tell but you can barely see the hole.

 

the coolant hose looks a bit "chubby".

 

That hose is supposed to look like that and being to the side as well. It is actually brand new, more or less