Classic Valve Body symptoms. All a later code does is give more miles before a possible Valve Body issue. I have a 6L and needed one. A lot has to do with city versus freeway driving. More shifts equals more wear.https://www.ipdusa.com/techtips/10176/volvo-tf80-awf21-transmission-issues-shift-flare-etc

 

First thing I would do is to verify that one of the appropriate fluids was used for the oil change.

 

Adding to what steelpounder mentioned, was the correct fluid confirmed? The 3rd gear overlap, 2-3, 3-4, is typical of old fluid. You might need to repeat the drain and fill 1-2 more times. People typically do 3 drain/fill transmission fluid changes, adding up to ~12 quarts of fluid. This route is a good cheaper option before diving into changing a costly valvebody job (more costly if done at a shop).

I've taken some Euro spec GM transmission valve bodies apart to clean them because of the flare or bang in WOT. At first I thought it was a driveshaft CV joint issue. The screens of the solenoids can hold dirt/sludge (clutch material/carbon, etc.), restricting consistent flow and pressure when changing gears. Hopefully, you don't have to jump to a new valvebody and can resolve the shifting with just fluid.

 

Every single mount checked on the engine? Worn out mounts can add some rocking to the equation, making shifts feel more harsh.

First code (per VIDA) suggests a solenoid issue (gear changes taking too long), valve body as Thommykent suggest.

I cannot find the second code, is this a typo?

 

Thanks Greg!

The mechanic might have had a typo on that, I could not find it either.

In any event, it does seem like at least from the first code I have this valve body issue, probably brought on by old and dirty fluid. I cannot detect any looseness in the motor mounts.

Having said that, does anyone have experience with any of the suppliers in the link for the valve body issue? When I click the link for the Volvo part (Tasca), it says that part number is not compatible with my V8, but rather with the 3.2. I am guessing they're the same part, but will call supplier to find out. Is there any downside to getting a reman (Ream Man) for this purpose? I would rather spend more to not have to do this again in a year or so....

Thanks for the help guys!!

Andy
2008 XC90 V8 Sport
Electric Silver

 

OEM Valve body is preferred over the crap shoot rebuilds are. Remans to me mean they have rebored and installed oversize solenoid pistons to match ( which I would verify) and could be OK. OEM`s from Volvo are available for around $1300. I order most of my parts from Tasca, but didn`t the Valve Body.

 

Well that is a very good point. I did specify using the 3309, but when I asked to confirm after the fact, he was somewhat vague. So, I cannot really confirm. I may try one more drain and fill, this time by myself, with the 3309 fluid, before I go to the VB solution. Thanks everyone, greatly appreciate the assistance!

 

If you’re not sure what they mixed in, you’re better off just doing a full flush. You can do it at home. I have flushed at 190k on my 3.2 and 140k on my v8 without issue if you’re concerned with the mileage. Both were first flushes.

 

If you're not sure what they mixed in, you're better off just doing a full flush. You can do it at home. I have flushed at 190k on my 3.2 and 140k on my v8 without issue if you're concerned with the mileage. Both were first flushes.

Well that is a very good point. I did specify using the 3309, but when I asked to confirm after the fact, he was somewhat vague. So, I cannot really confirm. I may try one more drain and fill, this time by myself, with the 3309 fluid, before I go to the VB solution. Thanks everyone, greatly appreciate the assistance!

Inline with what Masscomguru is saying, maybe you will have to do a full 3 drain/fills instead of just one. People have their own way of doing them. Some allow the engine to run and manually change gears while pressing the brake in between drain/fills. Others drive for anywhere between 50-300 miles between drain/fills. If you are unsure of the fluid the shop used, I would stay closer to 50 miles or less in between drain/fills to remove the unknown fluid sooner.

You could also try the transmission cooler method which is very popular to do and can be done in one sitting. Both of these would still be cheaper than a valvebody if it is just the fluid. Doing 12 quarts yourself might be cheaper than one drain/fill from the shop.

The shop not putting the type of fluid on the repair order and being vague on the fluid used is not confidence inspiring. Let's hope they did not use a multi-spec like MaxLife. Using the wrong fluid is the easiest way to do harm to a transmission. If you still want to have a shop do the drain/fill, I would bring the 3309 fluid to them so they can't use anything else.

Good luck.

 

If the shop doesn`t know I`d swap it all out like Chitown suggests. If that doesn`t work, and it does need a new Valve Body, it will all ready have new fluid. So you haven`t lost anything

 

True, getting the right fluid through the transmission and clutch packs are still good before a valvebody change.

To agrout, keep us updated of your progress and results after the fluid change. Unfortunately, using a multi-spec fluid is a mistake that happens way too often, even by Volvo shops.

 

Do your own drain and fills. Easy. Hardest part was removing the plug on top of the transmission. I paid a Volvo dealer to change my fluid a few days after purchasing my 2007 S80. Had shifting issues after the change. Went back to Volvo twice requesting a level check. Both times they charged me $ for a drive but said the fluid level was ok and no need to check. I then was laid off and decided to check for myself. I carefully collected the drained fluid and measured the new added fluid. Dealer had transmission 28 ounces low. I left the Service manager know of my displeasure.

Change you own fluid with the correct specification. I overfilled my transmission by 1/2 quart. Four years ago and no shifting issues in many 10K miles later.

 

Yes. The first thing to check is the level. When I did my first change, I had initially had some shifting issues. I checked the level and it was low. Added a quart and got the level perfect with vida. Issues went away.

 

How did you check the level before adding more and draining excess?

 

In PM-ing with agrout, I believe the indy BG'd him.

 

ggleavitt, that is correct. BG synthetic. I am going to do another 3X drain and fill, at home, and will see if there is an improvement. Thanks all!

 

Ah, so it was a universal-spec fluid used. Then add only one drain/fill, not a complete changeover of fluid.

Good luck and fingers crossed using the correct 3309 fluid solves your shifting issues so a valvebody won't be needed.

 

My 2005 Volvo S60 2.5T had 102,000 miles on the odo when it was purchased in 2016. The transmission was working OK, but there was an odd noise that developed around 109,000 miles, that I thought was coming from the transmission, so I changed the fluid, at 110,000 miles. The old fluid was brown, and very likely the original fluid from when the car was delivered new. The new fluid is Valvoline Max-Life synthetic. It is available locally, and Valvoline recommends this fluid for my specific transmission. The car now has 125,600 miles, and the transmission continues to operate flawlessly. The noise I was hearing turned out to be a bearing in the A/C compressor, which I was able to remove from the car, and was overhauled by a nearby shop.

 

Your 2.5t might operate different with its 5spd transmission. Multi-spec and universal fluids don't work as well for the 6sp Aisin TF-80SC transmissions. Do a search for it and you will find that often XC90 owners get shift issues and sometimes transmission damage after switching to MaxLife. You will probably see a long-thread guide that mentions this, lol.

 

Pretty sure the 2005 S60 2.5T uses the same transmission I had in my '05 XC70, the AW55-50. It is also supposed to use a JWS3309 fluid -- *NOT* Valvoline Max-Life.

 

 

I pulled out the maintenance record book for my 2005 Volvo 2.5T, and I see that the transmission fluid change was done at 114K. The car is now at 126.5K, and the transmission continues to operate smoothly, across the entire speed range. The transmission is Aisin AW55-50SN, and similar transmissions, from the same manufacturer, are used in Renault, Nissan, Ford, and Chevrolet cars. The specified fluid is JWS3309. Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic transmission fluid does not indicate this specification on the label, but the Valvoline application guide does recommend this fluid for this specific transmission. It is not particularly inexpensive, but it is available locally, so that is what I used. I suppose the car will not last forever, well, I am 72 years old, & I will not last forever, either. So far, so good, for both me and the transmission.

 

Thanks ChitownV and ggleavitt - so today I did a simple drain and fill with the blue Mobil 3309. Buttoned it all back up and went for a drive. Still having some issues with the 2-3 shift, but seems less severe. Will drive around tomorrow, maybe do this again and see how it goes... will report back, thanks!

 

Yes, do repeat and give it some miles for the transmission computer to adapt to the new fluid parameters.

 

Just a quick update on my situation - I have done two drain and fills with the 3309 (blue bottles). Both times, I did it cold so that the drained stuff and new stuff were about the same temperature. I carefully measured what came out so I could put the same amount back in, as I do not have VIDA/DICE. The amount of flaring between 2-3 has diminished considerably. The only times it happens now is after the car is very warm - at least 30 mins or so of driving - and when going up a grade. I am going to try one more drain and fill. In my research, I did notice that the Volvo technical bulletin notes the 2-3 flaring occurs when the car is cold; my experience is that it shifts fine when cold, and it's only under warm conditions and uphill that this occurs. Having said all that, and the fact that this does not have the earlier faulty valve body, should I still be considering the valve body replacement? Thanks!

 

See where the 3rd drain/fill and some miles take you. It will still take hundreds of miles for the transmission adaptations to adjust. Plus, the fluid may need some time to work fully throughout the transmission and clutches. If after a thousand miles it is still a big problem, then maybe your valvebody has some irreparable damage.

 

If it flares when warm it`s even more indicative of a Valve Body as your issue. Changing fluid is cheap so no harm in doing them. I would check level the correct way, engine running fluid up to recommended temperature, not I put in as much as I took out when cold.

 

Changing fluid is cheap so no harm in doing them. I would check level the correct way, engine running fluid up to recommended temperature, not I put in as much as I took out when cold.

I agree with this because you have to double check the shop had the correct level as well. Trust but verify. If it was still original Volvo and the transmission wasn't opened up, then I would say you can do the same in vs out, but remember that the fluid out also has floating media in it so you eventually want to check for level.

 

UPDATE: Well, I just got it back from a good transmission shop out here in Golden. Turns out not only the valve body needed to be replaced, but also the torque converter. These guys seemed to know what they were doing, and were highly recommended by the guy who has been the mechanic on my V8 since it was new. They sourced a new valve body from Volvo, as it is the only way they will go (as many others here have stated). They also were familiar with the correct fluid to use. My theory on this car was that - although it was not in the serial number range for the earlier defective valve body - it had been used extensively for towing .... I know this because it does have an electronic brake control device installed. Hopefully I will be good for another 135,000 miles, thanks to all for your advice!!

 

Good they used a Volvo sourced new Valve Body. They seem to understand this transmission. The serial number isn`t a golden rule as you discovered.