[theclutch]

As promised, here is the UOA. It seems to be well worth it to change it out at 5k or even earlier, especially if you're committed to long term ownership. (Those leasing probably don't care...)

Stick shift, thanks for posting that. Here is mine. Note that the dealer changed the oil as per Volvo at 10k mile intervals. They forgot to get an oil sampling for me the first two times. But here is the third. It's bothersome to me. First, Blackstone measured the oil to be 5W-20. The dealer wrote Castrol Edge 5W-30. It's no biggie, but for once I'd love for dealers to get this right. Secondly, how do I know if they actually changed the oil? Since I have a lift, I will eventually look under there. I am almost certain that there will be screws missing... <sigh>

So has anyone else done these oil analysis? It doesn't look like this engine is made for the long haul. So this Volvo engine is both a turbo and supercharged engine + auto start/stop functionality - it's begging to break down. My goal is to catch it before it breaks down outside of warranty. I had a similar issue with a previous car. Upon further research that previous car's engine was prone to piston failure around 150k miles. It didn't stick around with us for us to find out...we traded it in around 40k miles.

So for those that don't believe the $25 or so cost of an oil analysis is not worth it, this is what an oil analysis led me to find in one of my previous cars. A freakin bolt backed out from INSIDE the engine and was sitting in the oil pan! Granted, this was at around 250k miles. Luckily, further inspection revealed nothing wrong with the engine. The engine was perfect otherwise with the compression being within 4% of each cylinder if my memory serves me correctly!

It came out of that hole right above the chain.

 

[theclutch]

So it doesn't look like there's any need for the special oil wrench?

 

[theclutch]

So it doesn't look like there's any need for the special oil wrench?

Not if you don't want to change the filter.

Confirmed... Good thing Amazon delivers the 86mm cartridge wrench next day. Also, THIS IS THE MESSIEST OIL CHANGE I HAVE EVER DONE. The oil shoots out horizontally, made a complete mess and screwed up my new white shirt... yes, I know... what the hell was I doing changing the oil while wearing a white shirt. Now the wife is put to the task to see if she can get the oil out. I had gotten good at changing the oil with elbow length gloves that I barely have a drop of oil anywhere. This was a complete surprise especially when the oil splashes up against some suspension components like in post #88.

Anyway, I collected the oil and am now awaiting the 86 mm wrench. I will be sending my oil to Blackstone Labs to see how the engine is doing.

 

[theclutch]

Completed the messiest oil change ever. Again, note that the oil shoots out "vs pour out" of the oil pan. More oil comes out of the oil cartridge housing.

Special thanks to stick_shift for doing this thread with pics.

Very sarcastic thanks to the past 3 free oil change dealer techs (could be the same dealer techs) who seemingly used an impact wrench to over tighten the oil filter cartridge housing vs doing the 25 Nm that is written on the freakin cannister! And also a very special thanks for not putting these 2 clips back which cost over $4 EACH. You have once again reconfirmed why I should never go to the dealer to get any of my cars worked on. I.e. - If you can't even do an oil change properly, how can I trust you for anything else?

 

[theclutch]

Calm down. Those clips break all the time. The 10 screws are more than enough.

And if you're doing it on your back, the filter can seem tight because you aren't going to get the best leverage to remove it.

That's true.... the clips break. But they should have replaced them. Volvo put it there for a reason. Also, I have a lift...it was TIGHT and well beyond the 25NM spec.

 

[theclutch]

Here's my latest Blackstone Labs report.

 

[theclutch]

Hmm... the last time I had a "bad" oil report (I get all 8 of our cars analyzed), I ended up dumping the car. This would fit that category for me. I would take a sampling at 5k to see if it would improve. But I've never run a hybrid. Even so, I wouldn't think this was normal. I would run the car hard and hot (to burn any fuel in the oil) before taking another sample. But if the oil level keeps getting higher, time to trade it in...

 

[theclutch]

Same here. Wifey's XC90 is due for the final (free) dealer oil change, after that I'm installing a Fumoto.

I was thinking about this Fumoto thing... But since the effective drain hole is smaller than that of the drain plug, I would assume that the oil would STILL shoot out like a water gun... Don't you think?

 

[theclutch]

You can buy a Fumoto with a nipple that let's you attach a hose to direct flow.

OMG! Ok, I had to look it up! Sold! Here's a link!

http://www.fumotousa.com/results.php?make=83&year=2017&model=38382&makeid=VOLVO&modelid=XC90+2.0L+L4

 

[theclutch]

Our 'free' oil changes are over so I took the opportunity to install a Fumoto valve F-104

Turns out... it doesn't fit despite being the part brought up by both Fumoto and Amazon! There is interference with the engine when threading it in.

You also need this extension piece:
https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-ADP-104-Adapter-Extension/dp/B0043QQVIC

Thanks... but ummm... how about some pics? Pics or it didn't happen!

 

[theclutch]

My oil filter kit came with two small o-rings. Your instructions forgot to mention changing this o-ring circled in the pic. It's the same size as the o-ring on the 6mm housing bolt.

 

[theclutch]

@ theclutch,

I don't think there's an o-ring at the bottom of the filter housing. Adding more pics below:...
Interior of filter housing. There's no place for another ring.

Lol... your third pic is showing where the oring is! My pic is too dark. But yours isn't. Here where the arrow is. But this was admittedly a pita to change out and you better have a pick.

 

[theclutch]

So neither the Volvo nor Wix filters come with the 4th o-ring. theclutch, what brand filter did you use?

Here's a YT video of a guy changing with a no-name brand filter, he doesn't swap out the alleged internal o-ring either. At this point I don't think it even exists, it would serve no purpose.
...
No photo, video or documented evidence of the 4th.

I used a Mahle OX1075D filter. My not-yet-used Mahle filter also has the 4th O-ring. BUT, my not-yet-used Carquest filter does NOT. Weird. Maybe it's a Mahle thing?

HOW can you say " At this point I don't think it even exists, it would serve no purpose." and that "No photo, video or documented evidence of the 4th." when YOUR OWN PHOTO shows it? Sounds like you just want to be right. The o-ring certainly exists and you can check it out for yourself on your next oil change. Better yet, look at your own picture.

That does not get replaced.

Even Tech says it exists! But if he says it doesn't need to get replaced, then that saves some time. Just weird how the Mahle oil filter package came with it. Since I already bought a set of picks, I will be changing it again next time with the Mahle filter. It will be hard to remove that o-ring without a pick, otherwise.

 

[theclutch]

Hi all,
I'm a master tech who works at a retailer and can clear up a few details regarding oil changes.

The screws that hold the lower protection plate aka belly pan are not T27 but are T30.

As for capacity, early engines had a larger oil pan that can be identified by having two large rectangular extensions on it across the back side near the drain plug. These engines take 6.2L on refill.
The later engines as in the type pictured in this topic have an oil pan that is flat across the back and they take 5.9L. You can use the internet for the conversion to quarts.

As for T8's, the procedures are the same but keep the ignition key at least ten feet from the car so the ICE doesn't start on it's own for some reason. (ask me how I know!)

Here's a pic of the 6.2 LITER oil pan.

 

[theclutch]

Be careful with your specs 😉.
This is 5.9 Liter oil pan, which roughly equates to 6.23 Quarts.

@vista88 , I was following what you said "As for capacity, early engines had a larger oil pan that can be identified by having two large rectangular extensions on it across the back side near the drain plug". Mine clearly has that when compared to the original posters pic which is flat at the back.

So mine in 6.2 LITERS, right?

 

[theclutch]

No, the large oil pans like yours hold ~6.2 Quarts.
The later oil pans that are flat across the back hold ~5.9 Quarts.

@vista88 ,.... your previous writing shown below shows LITERS and not quarts... so which is it?

SPA XC90 DIY Oil Change with pics

SPA XC90 DIY Oil Change with pics, UOA I did an oil change on our 2018 XC90 at 5k miles, these steps and pics should apply for any 2016/2017/2018/2019 vehicle. [This thread is for those interested in doing the oil change, not intended to start a holy war. Head over to BITOG for that :D] See...

www.swedespeed.com

 

[theclutch]

Ditched my splash guard at the last oil change - very happy with my decision! It cuts the oil change time in half.
(Kept the shield in case we sell the vehicle, then I'll put it back on)

Per chance, are you related to this tech? Apparently, he wanted to "make it easier" for the next guy to change the oil.

https://jalopnik.com/lazy-idiots-at-lube-shop-cut-hole-in-audi-s4s-aero-pan-1748394648

 

[theclutch]

The oil capacity will vary by model year... Mine supposedly has 5.9 LITERS = 6.2 quarts.... however, I filled it in with 5 quarts and it's 1 tick below MAX even after very long driving and a few months. No oil consumption/no burning.

FYI, I originally filled it to 6 quarts, saw the level set to MAX, and then I gradually removed 0.5 quarts through the oil filter 6 mm bolt (very convenient for this), drove it for a week or so, and repeated the process until I showed 1 tick below MAX. so now, I have 5 quarts in the engine. No lights, warnings, no oil burning....go figure.

 

[theclutch]

I changed the o-ring in question (I wish I read this all the way through first) and it was a major pain in the ass. I ended up popping the valve assembly out of the filter cover and changing it on the bench then reassembling inside the cover - which wasn't easy to come out or go back in. The durometer of the OLD o-ring seemed to be much stiffer than the oring that is meant for the little 6mm filter housing drain plug.

Anyway, I did pull it out with a pick, but that assembly is spring loaded. I'm not sure if it's an anti-flow back or an overpressure bypass device - any idea? It's just the three pieces, inner piston with the o-ring, outer sleeve and spring.

@theclutch are you certain the two o-rings in your kit were identical? I didn't remove the 6mm drain plug, just pulled the filter over off into the drain pan, which is why I even thought to change the o-ring we're discussing here. I hadn't realized there was and o-ring on the cover drain plug yet...

I'll likely replace the cover on the next oil change now that I have doubts that o-ring is correct... I'm not sure how critical it is without knowing the actual purpose of that valve.

Yes, they were identical. My car is a late model 2017 (seems to have 2018 parts). That inner o-ring was a PITA but easier to remove with a right angle pick. HOWEVER, all my replacement oil filters since have only come with one small o-ring. So I stopped changing that one.

 

[theclutch]

Did the oil change month ago. Drained for 5 minutes, nothing out of the plug. Changed the filter. Added the whole jug Liqui Moly top tech 6600, only 5L. Then I noticed Digital dipstick showing 1 tick to MAX. Drived for a month, it is at the MAX now. I wonder if the digital dipstick works or not. Probably somewhere in the pan is touching and reaching the dip, elsewhere does not participate in the working situation. Besides, I don't think 4-cylinder engine does need such huge amount of oil over 5L. It should be fine with 5L, all the way up to 6L. But less oil is supposed to be fuel efficient if drive not that hard. High REV driver better top off 5.5L+.
Just own opinion. Hope 5L works good.

I am more worried about overfilling. I've found that putting in 5.5 quarts (5.2 liters) puts me at 1 tick below MAX. I also measure the coolant level and make note of whether the measurement is cold or hot. This way, I will know via the digital oil level if coolant is leaking into the engine oil. I had a scare during one oil change that the oil coming out looked quite thin (it was 0W20 and I have since gone back to 5W30). Also, the ticks move after about 1 hour of driving. So if you fill it right away, the leveling info will not be immediate.