Wow what a fantastic writeup! This is sticky-worthy for sure.

 

Stickied!

 

Absolutely great write-up. A fine example for all of us to follow when writing a "How To". Only one issue. MNIWT, can you change the title to read Left instead of Right?

 

Done! Thanks for pointing that out. I stickied it with the left side, but completely missed the error in the title.

 

Nice! Glad you got it figured out. Hope I was able to help

 

Thanks for the kind words on the write up guys! And thanks @pczeilon and @phish for the Torque specs and help!

I'll be trying to document anything else I do that doesn't seem to be covered.

 

Really, that was a nice write up. I relaxed mine when I go the car two years ago. I have a feeling it's blown again so I will be trying to source just the hydraulic piece to replace. First time around, I had bought the kit from Tasca like you mentioned in the write up. I have a feeling I'm better off just buying the whole kit again because the sum of the individual parts is greater than what the kit costs when the parts are bought by themselves lol.

 

Started the transmission mount upgrade today on my 'new' 06 S40 T5 AWD M66. Unfortunately my pin in the original intermediary lever is quite seized. Perhaps I'm not able to get enough force from the hammer (it's pretty tight in there) but anyone else have success dislodging the pin with alternative approaches? Have tried a reasonable amount of PB Blaster. Is heat next option?

Thanks!
David


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

RESSURECTION!!!

so apparently in Germany its either buy the ****ed up silly mushy rubber mount again, since my car is a very early model or go scrapyard huntin' which with my job is a bit of a pita, no time...
so my hope is if i call the local volvo dealer tomorrow he can tell me how much coins that parts costs....
only problem i dont have access to vida, so i would like to ask you friendly people of Swedespeed:
could someone provide the individual part numbers of the kit.
I searched the web for days here in germany, i just find the hydraulic mount but not the kit.... Thanks in advance

 

Look here for 6 speed numbers. Others are just above.

 

I went to do this job a few months ago and got stuck at the pin - I just don't see how anyone can get enough of a hammer swing on it to get the pin free and then replace the linkage. So I just put everything back together and swore that I would only replace the mount with an original (rubber) mount kit. I just can't see the reason (advantage) why someone would install the updated unit. Torque mount, sure. Left side engine mount, nope. So my suggestion is to just replace it with the same one.

 

You have a 6 speed correct?
Bracket is different as new mount is round.
Mount is different (hydraulic)
Screw (bolt) for attaching mount to bracket is different size.
Lever number is 30751656. Number in brackets is old & automatically supersedes to new one. New lever is required or it will contact new style bracket.
New replacement roll pin.
New cap for lever (not required but cheap).

I believe the kit may come with new bolts (with Locktite) for the bracket to transmission. According to VIDA these are the same as used on the old bracket. 982842 if you want fresh bolts (4).

Have you tried the kit number of 30778932 at the dealer? Have your dealer call Volvo parts if the number doesn't show. The kit costs far less than the parts individually. Less than even the new mount all by itself.

 

Below Picture is Cropped Off - right where one would need to See the Full Radius of Original Bracket .

I Betting a little Die Grinder would all one would need some Clarence- is there much Pressure on that cable Bracket anyhow ?

I'd still like to See the Original Compared to the New Style as all Call it ..

I like to Hear : Rev Part Up Grade or is Super Seceded by a Design Improvement .
I have Heard of a Few Breaking , but most likely those were also Fast Hard Driven.. Starts .

 

What is the big impovement in the updated model? If it reduces vibration greatly I'd consider it but otherwise what's the use?

 

There is not a huge improvement but it's definitely noticeable. More evident if your stock mount is shot. This mount is bad on most early cars with high mileage. You will find that after replacing the mount your transmission will now sit an inch/cm or two higher.

3 styles were used:
Early cars use a square rubber mount. Not optimal for longevity or vibrations but a stock replacement is still available. You need a kit (new mount, bracket, etc.) to install the new hydraulic mount.
S40 CH 190211-, V50 CH 194444- New improved rubber mount was introduced. This mount is pretty robust & trouble free but not optimal for vibrations. It is NLA & you will receive the new hydraulic mount if you order a replacement. If you fall in this chassis range you do NOT need the kit to install the hydraulic mount.
S40 CH 498517-, V50 CH 545164- New hydraulic mount (like the right side) was introduced.

From the Volvo TSB:
S40 & V50 customers may complain of a clunking noise during shifting or when applying and releasing the accelerator pedal. It is especially noticeable on cars with manual transmissions during low speed driving and when making a 1-2 shift. The customer may also complain of a slight vibration through the floor or seat at low engine RPMs (approx 1800-2000).

 

Crap, that service bulletin kind of describes my car. I think I have the early range (2006 model?), not sure about chassis number, but it sounds like replacing the thing would be a good idea. Probably a different kit for mine as I have the 2.0D, MMT6 rather than M66...

 

I just looked it up for you. No such luck with the MMT6. Same mount (31359779) all through production.
They changed the anti-vibration weight that sits on top at chassis -386777. I would think that would be hardly noticeable though. Maybe a cheap buy from a wrecking yard just to see...

 

Just another data point - my original t5 2005 square rubber mount with 125k miles looks almost brand new. It's possible it was replaced somewhere along the line by a previous owner, but I doubt it. I get a bit of vibration at idle due to the efocus mount, but otherwise I don't have any vibration issues that I can contribute to that mount. By comparison, I did the same upgrades to my 2.4i 5speed + updated hydraulic trans mount and it was only a bit smoother than the t5. So yes, it makes a bit of difference, but not that much. Biggest difference is broken mount vs. good mount.

 

This is a USA issued TSB so not sure it transfers over to the 2.0D. Some searching in VIDA would let you know if the mounts were similar though.

 

Now an amendment to my previous statement: a mount upgrade for a diesel probably would make a big difference in vibrations.

 

So after some confusion on the side of my mechanic. He confronted me with you bought the wrong parts bro!
And me explaining him what goes where.
I picked my baby up today. I had him change the transmission mount and the upper right mount. Also I had him insert the pu insert in the lower mount.
The left mount was bad, one side was completely ripped. And the upper left mount also was ripped.
So now my baby doesn't shake! It feels really tight now. No stupid vibration. And the RPMs are even snappier now. It revs more freely.
I can highly recommend using that mount kit!

Gesendet von meinem C6833 mit Tapatalk

 

Just ordered this today...wish me luck!

Alrighty so got it all installed and lemme tell ya, that engine is now butter smooth and there's no more annoying tick/knock anymore.

So that being said I believe there are some edits and some easier or simpler ways of doing things that are noted above.
I'll post pics tomorrow of what I mean, so I'll just write it out here and add them tomorrow.

To get to the tranny arm bolts, you will need to disconnect your computer more than likely and you will definitely need to disconnect your vacuum booster at all three points and then unbolt the base (8mm or 10mm can't remember) 2 bolts and move it completely out of the way.
To access the tranny side bolts easier, a shallow 3/8" drive 15mm socket with a universal joint, 6" extension and breaker bar makes short work of breaking them bolts loose in tight quarters. Short strokes to unscrew them and then you can use your hands for the rest. I took out the drivers side wheel well plastic and went in from the bottom.

Getting the pin out of the intermediate lever was a challenge to get moving but once moving was easy with steady taps moving it a mm at a time. That being said I used a 1/4" standard Allen screwdriver attachment that was for a 5/32" Allen screw and the entire thing was big enough to push the pin but small enough to go through all the holes without sticking.pushed it out like a champ. (The one on the left)

To get it back in was another nightmare entirely. I crimped it like OP said but it was still Sooooo stubborn. So I got a 1/8" thick wide head screw and tightened it down through the pin and all 4 holes to keep them aligned and made it a nice snug fit and then started tapping the pin in. It went in straight this way the first time without many issues. It gives you a larger surface area to hit as well, which helped my uncoordinated self.

Finally, removing the shifting wires was unique. The one connected to the intermediary lever you are replacing is held on by a paperclip sized u shaped pin much like a cotter pin, the sits in the metal grooves. Easy to pull and remove.

The one on the right was as op said, but instead of pulling the spring back, grab the plastic piece the spring pushes against and pull it towards the end of it, compressing the spring and allowing you to push that orange tab skyward. Then pulling thewire out there will a be a long rippled end to the wire, it may get snagged on something so remove it all the way and wiggle it as need be.

 

Ok so update, and a question. After writing up this stuff last night and adding the pictures in this morning, I have run into a quick problem that I am hoping others may be able to help me out with:

Since reconnecting everything I have had an interesting time getting it into reverse. I all the work with the stick in neutral center last night. 1/2 are slightly tougher but 3/4/5/6 are easy. However, after warming up, there is no issue with any of them, and reverse only then sometimes give me issues. With that being said, I have a question - the cable that connects to the intermediate with the paperclip doesn't have an apparent cable adjustment, so I'd say it's' hard to mess that one up. The other one, with the orange tab, has a 1.5" rippled triangular end to that seems to be able to grab wherever it needs to when you push that orange thing back down. When I reassembled that cable, I pushed that cable ALL the way back in, as far as it would go and then pushed the orange pin down. For those of you with access to vida, can you see if I did it wrong and if that is causing my anti-reverse issue or not? I appreciate it very much.

So today, a month and a half after having these issues, I took the whole thing apart again and found that when I undid the shifter cable with the orange tabby thing, wiggled it and let the cable inside slide to it's neutral location (with the stick in neutral as well) and then push the orange tabby thing back down and lock it back in place it was a different position than I had reassembled it (as I had pushed the ribbed for her pleasure triangular thing all the way back in rather than letting it sit at it's natural neutral position). The shifting issues for the most part are entirely gone, all gears go in smoothly and without issue. So just keep an eye on it there when you reassemble it and besure you put it in a neutral no tension spot before putting everything back together above it.

 

2007 T50 M66 with 140k checking in after replacing my driver side mount

i ordered the kit assuming i had the old square mount, was pleasantly surprised to see the hydraulic mount when i removed the battery (replacing the bracket and intermediary arm looked very tedious)

old vs new
note the old mount is sagging. i found some dried up residue and a tear in the old mount.

 

Without taking the battery box out, I have no idea how anyone gets enough space/force to tap the pin out of the intermediate lever. I tried with the battery in place and it seemed impossible... so I gave up and just installed a new rubber one instead. Still buttery smooth.

 

i too was worried about getting that pin out, there's room down there to work, but not swing a hammer

 

^right, so how is everyone getting the pin out? Mine was not gonna budge unless strong-armed.

 

If you remove the vacuum hosing, you have the room you need to do the following:

You can't swing a hammer, but you can move it between 4 and 6 inches. Those 4-6 inches plus a nice minisledge or non-claw hammer, plus something transfer the force directly to the pin without hitting the arm will equal that pin moving by swinging the hammer while holding it upside down. It requires some hand/arm strength, but it is not hard to do. I personally used a 1/2lb ball-peen hammer to do the job, it took some good firm whacks to get it moving, and truthfully it moved maybe a mm or two per whack for the whole process, but it moved nonetheless.

 

I did this upgrade over the weekend - certainly not a fun job, but it felt rewarding to get it done. I believe I had the first version of the mount on my car (chassis 173267) and experienced quite a bit of clunking when taking off and shifting through the gears. This fixed that entirely. This R&R took me about 4 hours whereas the the upper (right side) engine mount took about 15 minutes.

Without the above write up and additional comments I wouldn't have been prepared for the job and would have needed to put it all back together and try again another time. So, THANKS!

A few hints that I figured out along the way:

[Below]: Avenger was spot on with his method of using a toggle bolt to get the pin started in the intermediary lever. 3/8" size works perfectly. The anchor isn't strong enough that you can 'screw' in the pin, but you can get it really tight and then hit it a few times with a hammer. Get it in there just enough that the pin is at the inner edge of the hole in the intermediary lever. I greased the pin and hole to aid in this process. Don't bother trying to use clamps, pliers or just hammer it in - it's hopeless (prove me wrong).

You can also see some of the tools I thought I would use to remove the pin from the existing intermediary lever. I know, not the right hammer for the job - but it works!

[Below]: What I actually used to remove the pin from the intermediary lever. The T27 'socket' worked incredibly. It's nice and short, and the end of the bit fits snugly inside the pin, so it holds itself in place so you're free to whack it and hold other things aside. I then used the smaller hex bits (the 5mm fits all the way through the hole) to get it all the way out. The pin was very rusty and was extremely stubborn. It took me about an hour to get out. Probably could have done it in 20 minutes knowing what I now know.

[Below]: As Avenger mentioned, it's extremely helpful to move the vacuum pump away - to do this, just unbolt the bracket. I had to remove the main connector from the fusebox which I've circled in the diagram below. There's a little black clip holding the blue lever down. Release that and pull the blue lever up and it will come right out.

[Below]: Once the pin was out, I thought I was home free, but the lever was stuck to the rod. The intermediary lever had about 1/4" of play in it, so I was able to gradually place larger objects in the gap between the lever and the transmission, and then use a socket of the right size (can't remember the diameter, but you'll figure it out) and an extension to hit the rod down a little at a time. Be careful, as I'm sure if you hit the rod while it's in its 'down position' the transmission internals will be taking the blow and may do some damage.

[Below]: Unbolting this piece was a huge pain as well - it's a necessity to go through the wheel well to get to two of the bolts. I planned for this - since I only had one jack and needed to use it to hold/lift/lower the engine/transmission I removed the front driver wheel before I started the job. Don't get caught half way!

Definitely wear eye protection when hitting anything - especially plated tools like sockets and extensions! I evidently sacrificed some of my tools - they're still usable - and am not sorry about it.

Now, a question:

For the shift cable circled below, I understand how the wire clip works, but it never felt like it solidly clipped in. From memory it was on there pretty good before I removed it. Now that I replaced the shift cable, it is somewhat easy to pull off again - I can feel the clip is sitting in the groove and gives some resistance when trying to pull it off. I put the clip on so that the grooves sat where the shaft would go in, and then pushed the clip in so that the flat portions would go into the groove. I have driven the car a decent amount since then and haven't had issues but would rather be safe than sorry!

 

If you define some resistance when trying to pull it off as you'd have to do some flexing to get it removed when it's clipped in, I'd say that's good enough. It doesn't transfer much vertical load, only horizontal so as long as it won't pop off as long as it's "firmly" on the ball.

 

It barely has any more resistance than when the clip is not on it. I'll have to take a look at it again. Maybe the clip needs to be bent into shape, although I already tried that.

 

I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to share a couple of things that came up when I did this job last weekend.

First, I was kind of stumped by how to get the shift cables out of the way. Here's how they work: you pop out the blue clip on the cable housing. That will allow you to pull the spring-loaded sleeve backward. With the sleeve pulled backwards, the cable can be lifted directly out of the metal slot on the transmission. It may feel really tight, but rotate it just a bit to break things free and it will go.

I didn't get this and ended up cracking the plastic that attaches the boot on one of my cables when I was trying to flex them out of the way. Did a JB Weld job on it and it looks like it's holding up fine.

Hammering the pin through really wasn't that bad of a job. I used a mini-sledge and a small torx socket to hammer on. My car isn't terribly rusty, though.

Second, in the replacement mount bracket (the part that bolts to the transmission) where the center bolt (from the hydraulic mount) goes in, the threads don't seem to be cut all the way. I tightened up the center bolt to the specified torque (~80 ft-lbs) but the bolt wasn't seated all the way on the mount and it developed a clunk in 50 miles. Pulled the battery, cinched the bolt down all the way, and re-torqued the bolt and everything is good. If I were to do this job again, I would chase those threads with a tap before installation.

Finally, I attached all of the four large bolts for the mount bracket from the wheelwell and that wasn't hard at all. Just have to drop the motor down low enough. Even had room to get the torque wrench on em. I would recommend this method. Our wheelwell plastic is really easy to remove/install (I use a 12v impact driver to zip out the screws).

 

I did the swap to the newer style mount on my V50 M66 35K miles ago. It does isolate more vibration, though the old rubber mount was bad. Now I'm wondering if the new one might be bad already. I'm getting strange noises from the transmission and increased vibration. The other 2 mounts have been replaced and look good. The transmission mount looks like it may be sagging, no leakage yet though. If I jack the transmission up, there is a few inches of travel.

Have folks been seeing the new mounts fail much with the M66? I'm debating switching back to the rubber mount.

 

Mines been in for a long time. There was an interior knocking on cold start at about 1500-2500rpm that went away over the next 5,000mi, but there is increased interior vibration. With the bad rubber one, vibration+knock was from 2000-3000rpm. I have yet however, to have any sagging. if you have INCHES of travel and the mount is ONLY 1-1.5in thick...you prolly got a big problem brewing (unscrewing center bolt maybe?). Sounds like you may have gotten a bad one.