are you sure its the spring and not the clutch plates being warn or not adjusted correctly?
throw out/release bearing in good shape? no noise when you press the clutch slightly and then dissapears when fully pressed?

 

Hello
Yeah, definitely not a mechanical issue with the clutch assy. Either the push rod broke or the clip that retains it in the pedal broke, and it is now allowing the pedal to come high over-center.

I swapped out the over center spring mechanism, and took this pic while I was under there. The black rod indicated with the arrow is supposed to be clipped into the white wedge visible above it. currently it's just loose in the back of the pedal. I figured this out looking at the parts catalog

The push rod is supposed to be retained in the pedal by #8 - which is the white clip. I don't know if the end of the rod snapped, or the clip broke. This all happened when I was road testing & doing aggressive/ rapid shifts 1-3rd. Looks like everything is sold as an complete assembly - pedal & master as one.

 

Can you fit a standard clutch rod clip behind it ?

 

To attach the push rod to the pedal? No. None of it is accessible, so I'd have to remove the entire pedal assembly just to figure out if there is a way to modify the design. Since I have almost 120K on the car & it's 12 years old, I'm just going to change the entire assembly. We take this car when we go on long trips to Canada, etc., so not worth risking a failure on the road.

 

Cheers Joe
This is actually a semi ideal design for modification (edited this after thinking about it)
It may be possible to cut a piece exactly like that out of aluminum with a quick LIDAR scan and turn it into some CAD info for a laser cutter
Of course it’s all theory right now but it does seem doable…albeit a faff
Will give it a run when I can get to it but it’ll be a hot minute

 

I believe there was a recall for this issue, though I can't recall exactly for what. I replaced my master cylinder due to a leak a few months back and the new one came with a metal pushrod. Easy to replace once you've got it out. I cut the plastic arm which made it way easier, but it sounds like yours did that itself.

 

Interesting. No evidence of a recall in the US that I can find for my 2012 C30, even though it has the plastic push rod.

I just ordered the MC off FCP, I'll cancel the order for the pedal assembly with Tasca

 

I can't find much evidence of it online either; I'd recalled seeing something about it whenever I changed mine out, though for other reasons. The recall number is R49221.

Recall: Volvo C30 Clutch pedal mechanism may fail - Reviews, Recalls and Data - The AutoInsider Car Database

Volvo C30 Clutch pedal mechanism may fail: Owner Reviews, Recalls and Statistics - The AutoInsider Car Database

www.autoinsider.co.uk

 

I can't find much evidence of it online either; I'd recalled seeing something about it whenever I changed mine out, though for other reasons. The recall number is R49221.

Recall: Volvo C30 Clutch pedal mechanism may fail - Reviews, Recalls and Data - The AutoInsider Car Database

Volvo C30 Clutch pedal mechanism may fail: Owner Reviews, Recalls and Statistics - The AutoInsider Car Database

www.autoinsider.co.uk

Yeah, that's not a US market recall though. All the references to it are in UK market articles & threads/forums, from prior to my build date. I checked in the VolvoCarUS recall database with my VIN.. Sucks, 'cos that's the same problem, plastic push rod snapped in two.

 

that's funny;
not enough manuals in the US to make it worth their while, I guess

 

Weather turned in my favor today - didn't start raining until dusk, and was quite warm, so I took advantage of that to dismantle the C30 for the clutch master cylinder.

airbag & steering wheel out

Steering column out

directions neglected to mention this connector stuffed upon inside the column..

cluster also out

Decent amount of space to access the pedal bracket mount points (4) - but.... there is no way to withdraw the pedal assembly with the master cylinder attached. so, one has to pull the pedal bracket away from the firewall , then somehow get channel locks on the MC & rotate it clockwise (as seen from engine bay) to release it from the pedal assembly. The push rod normally has to be also released from the pedal itself, but since mine is broken there, that is already addressed. With that, the MC can be pulled out from behind the pedal assy., and then the pedal assy can also be removed. Going to be fun going back together. I'm considering drilling out the fixed pedal pivot, as this would be easier to install if the pedal could go in separately from the bracket & MC.

 

Took the Z out for a drive yesterday - it was warm enough, and no salt on the roads yet. C30 is still out of commission with the broken clutch master cylinder link rod.



I have the pedal assembly out. I drilled out & tapped to M6x1 the fixed pedal pivot so it came be serviced without quite so much drama





Either these M10 head or the Torx SEMS screws with loctite

 

Lovely z

nice to see a fellow Nissan/ Datsun hed !!

 

New clutch master arrived yesterday - normally only takes 2 days via USPS from CT, this one took over a week. Anyway, the weather has not been conducive to working outside, either way too cold or snowing. Today it was sunny & 34º, so I took advantage of that to put the car back together
new MC
Sold under Sachs brand - unit is the same manufacturer as originally installed - FTE - just with metal rod instead of the plastic mine had

test fit in painted backet

So, the bracket & MC cannot be installed as one, even without the pedal in play. I had to insert the MC in the firewall opening first, then position the pedal bracket, then set/lock the MC in the bracket.
Left side mount points are tricky to access

Pedal set in bracket

Link rod bushing set into pedal

With that located, I attached the hydraulic line, feed tube & switch connector

Immobilizer switch harness routed

Over-center mechanism in place - I used a tie wrap to hold the spring compressed, then set the mechanism & cut the tie wrap

Then I bled the clutch - had to remove the airbox, and the rad hose/engine harness support bracket to access the bleeder

With the bleeder valve open, I drop the tube into a container of brake fluid & stroke the pedal until there is resistance, checking the fluid level & topping it off after a few strokes.

After that I re-installed the steering column & shroud, under dash panelling, instrument cluster, surround, steering wheel & airbag.
Finally, I forgot to remove the set screw I used to locate the airbag contact reel spring, so I just cut it short. Not going to hurt anything as is.