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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thanks to all the groundbreaking work, there is plenty of reference data for this. Also posted on C30Crew.

I have a clean 95K S40 shell/AWD suspension/drivetrain in the works. An S40 M66 AWD coming from CA (now I wish I had saved mine, already had Quaife 14J & I sold it cheap). I'll look for the later Haldex controller.

Not sure of timeframe, but I'll probably put aside the X1/9 - K24 Honda conversion & do this first.

Areas that need specific details:

Precise drivetrain height adjustment details (3/8" ? custom shim plates etc.,) to retain C30 front subframe

rear shocks & springs (will Eibach springs work? Adjustable KYB's transfer over?)

Exhaust mods to work around propshaft

Alternative rear diff guts w/posi - other models transferable?
Has anyone researched which later models come with a posi & have same form factor as P1?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Beyond the (likely) need for a Haldex controller, another absolute issue is the lack of a functionally accurate fuel gauge.

Investigating ways to provide the C30 DIM with an averaged signal from the two senders. VIDA describes the DIM as being the location where the two signals are interpreted.

Extra wire from second sensor goes to F:25 at the CEM.



Potentially a cicuit can be added that averages the two sensor outputs.



To figure out resistor values, we need to know sensor I/O values. VIDA provides ZERO information on exactly what the values are (0v-5v, 5v-12v, 0v-Vbat? Who knows...) I will have to wait until I have the parts car on hand to juice up the senders & see what output values they give.

Unless anyone on here has ever looked at that?
 

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You can keep your front subframe without shimming. Your stock C30 FWD downpipe fits. That's what I used on mine. My cat is very close to the driveshaft, but doesn't touch. I'll solve this by getting rid of the cat. I don't have fuel gauge issues because I converted everything, ECU, DIM, gauges, ecm (but I also did a auto to manual conversion and went with a 2005 donor in a 2008 c30).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
You can keep your front subframe without shimming. Your stock C30 FWD downpipe fits. That's what I used on mine. My cat is very close to the driveshaft, but doesn't touch. I'll solve this by getting rid of the cat. I don't have fuel gauge issues because I converted everything, ECU, DIM, gauges, ecm (but I also did a auto to manual conversion and went with a 2005 donor in a 2008 c30).
This didn't bring up any alignment issues with the PS rack or DS alignment? Curious why they bothered shimming theirs.

VIDA describes the DIM as being where the divided signal (via the CEM) from the two senders is interpolated. I guess I could use the S40 DIM & swap the R design's faces over (maybe)...
 

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This didn't bring up any alignment issues with the PS rack or DS alignment? Curious why they bothered shimming theirs.

VIDA describes the DIM as being where the divided signal (via the CEM) from the two senders is interpolated. I guess I could use the S40 DIM & swap the R design's faces over (maybe)...
I don't see why this would cause PS rack issues, your c30 didn't have PS rack issues before and you're usng the same C30 one. A for DS, it fits perfectly in the tunnel. If anything, if I'd used the lower subframe from the V50, I think I would have had exhaust fitment issues because the DS would likely be a bit lower, so I could not use my C30 downpipe. But I put the V50 and C30 downpipes over each other and could not identify any difference with a lot of head scratching. So I used my c30 one cause it was in better shape.

My cv shafts went in perfectly fine... everything bolted up, car moves fine. Like I said only issue is I could use a bit more space between my rear driveshaft and my cat. it's probably 5mm right now which will hit with bumps. Would have plenty of space with a slightly smaller profile cat.
 

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There's an extra bend in the AWD downpipe that nudges it slightly further away from the drive shaft. It's subtle, but it's there. Ideally, a spacer between the downpipe and turbo flanges should bump it far enough over that it fixes this problem. Though you'll probably need to adjust some other angles in the exhaust or hangers to keep the tips even.

The stock FWD DP probably fits because it's so small. There is not enough room for a 3" FWD DP on an AWD car without customization. You'll want to make sure you have sufficient clearance because the exhaust moves around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think the issue is covered in Michael's post - I'm not using factory exhaust, and the others I'm aware of are also K16 not K04 AWD conversions.

There is a specific reason for the mount offset, maybe it's just not a issue with stock parts. Don't want to use the AWD subframe as then you mess with the C30 suspension geometry.

I don't see why this would cause PS rack issues, your c30 didn't have PS rack issues before and you're usng the same C30 one. A for DS, it fits perfectly in the tunnel. If anything, if I'd used the lower subframe from the V50, I think I would have had exhaust fitment issues because the DS would likely be a bit lower, so I could not use my C30 downpipe. But I put the V50 and C30 downpipes over each other and could not identify any difference with a lot of head scratching. So I used my c30 one cause it was in better shape.

My cv shafts went in perfectly fine... everything bolted up, car moves fine. Like I said only issue is I could use a bit more space between my rear driveshaft and my cat. it's probably 5mm right now which will hit with bumps. Would have plenty of space with a slightly smaller profile cat.
I've seen pics of the aftermarket 3" pipes for AWD/FWD side by side, and as you pointed out, there is an obvious change in pipe direction down before the cat. I'm going to cut & weld my MotoTec DP to fit. You mentioned somewhere that the Elevate hotside FWD pipe will fit on AWD, just needs finagling to fit?

There's an extra bend in the AWD downpipe that nudges it slightly further away from the drive shaft. It's subtle, but it's there. Ideally, a spacer between the downpipe and turbo flanges should bump it far enough over that it fixes this problem. Though you'll probably need to adjust some other angles in the exhaust or hangers to keep the tips even.

The stock FWD DP probably fits because it's so small. There is not enough room for a 3" FWD DP on an AWD car without customization. You'll want to make sure you have sufficient clearance because the exhaust moves around.
 

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When I lift the car again this weekend (getting a new rear diff pump), I'll take pics of the space I have upfront with the diff and the stock unshimmed c30 subframe, for your viewing pleasure :)
 

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You mentioned somewhere that the Elevate hotside FWD pipe will fit on AWD, just needs finagling to fit?
Yep! Just a spacer shim for one of the mounting brackets and don't feed the pipe fully into the turbo coupler. It's designed to be inserted about 1" into the coupler. Miner is only fed in about 0.5" but the hose clamp is still securely behind the flange, so no problems. Clears the transfer case and skid plate without any problems.





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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yep! Just a spacer shim for one of the mounting brackets and don't feed the pipe fully into the turbo coupler. It's designed to be inserted about 1" into the coupler. Miner is only fed in about 0.5" but the hose clamp is still securely behind the flange, so no problems. Clears the transfer case and skid plate without any problems.
Thank you, Michael. I'll save that pic for future reference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Problem with the fuel sender. The catalog listing is unclear. I have to assume I have the early unit, as the later one says S40 CH 305679-, and mine is 084465. Still shows two variants, 8629530 & 30792781; both of which seem to be valid PN's. I assume I have to use the AWD sender rather than my C30 (or a replacement) unit, or it won't have the signal from the left float. Not planning on buying one from Volvo, unless I have no option, just need to figure out which number I have to work with.

EDIT: Mine required the ...2781 unit, from Volvo



There are two tank #'s also. 30742527 & 30742528. I'd like to make sure I have whatever updated version sender I can make fit my tank.

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Took the wiring out.





Then. like a idiot I CUT the one section I shouldn't have - the right side feed through the floor to the Haldex & ABS. Don't know WTF I was thinking !!





So now I'll have to carefully reattach the wiring to the 64/50 connector, the ONE thing I didn't want to mess with!

64/50 connector - Terminals (sealed):
Yz 090II or TS090 and TS187 series

Yazaki 7114-4025/26/27 Male 2.3mm
7116-4025/26/27 Female 2.3mm
Sumitomo 8100_0463/4/5 Male 4.8mm
8100-0661/0 /0468 Female 4.8mm

Tracing those wires, they (Wh, Bn, Y) go to the black 29 pin connector (64/113, pins 19, 27, 20) in the pas footwell (not needed, for HID setup?),



the F connector at the CEM (Gy-Rd, Bu-Rd pins F:16, F:14, Gn-Wh for fuel level F:25)



the fuel module connector (64-51 Gy-R, Bu-Rd pins 2, 5).



Ground (Y-B) joins the black ground wires on the inner sill, and Gn-R (vBat?) goes to the large CEM connector (pin 39 - Jamatron said his went to )



I'll pull those wires from the connectors & insert into the appropriate terminals in my C30 harness - I'm assuming they don't exist (besides the pair going to 64/51)?

Going to pull the AWD 2nd sender wire from 64/51 pin 4 -> F:25 and add it to the C30 harness.

Checked the aftermarket right axle for fit in the trans/BG, and overall length



Chopped a BIG hole in the S40 floor. Pan is different form factor than I recall the C30 being, but maybe it's just that added section that retains the forward cushion edge & acts as a crossmember in the C30. I'll have to remove my cushion to refresh my memory.



The plan here is to mark reference points consistant across both models & make an accurate template for cutting the C30 pan, then cut a larger (than the hole) cover panel from this piece. put rivnuts in the pan, make a seal and use M6 hardware to retain the cover.



The cover panel will be based on the hexagon, the hole in the C30 floor will be based on the approx 8" circle. Actual cap nut is approx 6.5"

 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Dropped the rear yesterday afternoon.

I didn't realize several things are in the way, and have to be disconnected before you drop the rear too far.

Six bolts hold the subframe, plus 4 bolts for the trailing arms, then...

Leak Detection pump/valve



LDP/ valve wiring tied to crossmember



Still managed to chew up these wires (6/67 in wiring diagram, took forever to locate - called "Fuel Leakage Control")



Then EVAP lines, Rear out, then exhaust.



Propeller shaft. Have to replace the forward CV. This P shaft is # 30713165, repl # 30735305 also NLA. #31216175 CV (3", 24 spline) is listed for the available P shaft 31256269 (30759601) , but I don't know if it fits the earlier shaft, I'll have to look for markings. Should have HLJ75 apparently .



Heat shield, splash guards, cover plates, crossmembers



Gas tank coming out. Just 2 lines to disconnect (and the brackets securing filler neck to frame), and pull the fuel module harness through.





Floor, with oversize hole I cut out. C30 will only be about 8" hole



Stashed in the garage. Supposed to snow tonight.



I broke the blasted neck off the fuel sender (smacked it parking the rear crossmember). I'm not using this one anyway, but still. :D

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I pulled the CV's this morning. Both F&R are binding, so I'll just replace them both

Front has torn boot



Grease is cooked, outer races have worn grooves (not shown)



Ordered a pair of the eBay listed HLJ75's.

Going over the wiring. I have the harness repaired & ready to go in. Will reuse the stock ABS harness.



This is the wiring, based on actual component locations.



Not sure why the bridge is on the Haldex side of the connector. I made sure to reconnect F14,16 to 64/50 3 & 4. Those pins are larger load carriers than the pins 5 & 6. Must be a reason they chose to do it that way.



Have to see if I can figure out the part number for the Tyco terminals they used, I'm going to need some.

 

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you'll have 2 sets of data lines in your wiring from the haldex. One that is spliced in at the fuel module connector and one that went to the cem. You can chop off the cem ones and splice the ones that went to your fuel sender in the ones on your c30 fuel sender. Send the rest of the haldex wires to the appropriate cem connectors and you're set. I had 1 wire spot that wasn't empty... probably because I had an automatic. I just cut that wire out and spliced mine in. I didn't see any adverse affects but just in case I spliced them together afterwards.

You don't need to use any of the ABS wiring from the donor, just separate the pig tails and keep the c30 ones intact.

I don't have any pinout diagrams to share because I just marked my wires with tape and numbers on my donor connectors, so I would just look at a wire, say it goes here and go pin it. Helps when the donor and project cars are side by side in the garage :)
 
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