I'd change it. It's not the oil change interval so much as the driving style.

Too much pcv pressure and you can loose a cam seal or other important seal. Better safe than sorry. I don't believe there's any engine management monitoring of crankcase atmosphere pressure so that in addition to what's not a horrible job yet pays well (if you're a shop) is a red flag.

Basically if you put a glove on the oil fill cap and it inflates, time to service the pcv.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Thanks, yeah the glove inflates a bit when I put it on the oil fill.

 

On a 98 a plugged pcv won't cause a check engine light or drivability issue's. It can cause oil leaks obviously. 99 on pcv is important to the way the car runs 98 back not.

 

I also replaced the oil cooler hoses last year as they were weeping oil, is that a clogged pcv symptom too or just old hoses? I haven't lost a drop of oil since they were replaced with new.

 

What was said above is true, but question ... you blew a camshaft a few years ago and you had smoke coming out of the dipstick back then or you had a shop do it a few years ago because the cam shaft blew?

Anyhow, yeah if you can see smoke coming out / there is pressure coming out, I would change it. Just did one on my 98 last week, that wasn't terrible, but filled up a rubber glove after some time. Don't drive it hard in the mean time. If it is really bad you can pop the dipstick up a little and put a small piece of rag around the dipstick so if any oil blows out while you're driving the rag will catch a majority of it.

 

What was said above is true, but question ... you blew a camshaft a few years ago and you had smoke coming out of the dipstick back then or you had a shop do it a few years ago because the cam shaft blew?

I only had the cam seal (driver's side of engine) replaced. Did not do the PCV then.

 

Not a hard job, especially compared to a rear main seal which is unpleasant. Do it, can knock it out in an afternoon and won't run more than $125 in parts.

The mechanic who said "it will throw a CEL" should be punched in the face and disregarded for life....

 

I found this on a new-to-me engine once.

I found with the older engines, even with new PCV parts, it is not enough. The stock PCV pipe from the separator to the intake is severely undersized for an older engine. Also, the hole at the heating element at the PTC valve is tiny, like smaller than 1/4 inch tiny. Both will restrict the flow of the crankcase gases.

To address those issues, here is what I do. Get the below parts.

A 3ft 5/8 oil compatible hose. Do not use silicone hose, as it will "sweat" oil. Do not use heatercore hose, it is not rated for oil, it will become soft and you'll have to replace it sooner. This is what I use. Buy 3, as it is sold by the foot.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291442927889?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

One 3/4 elbows from your local hardware store. (5/8 will be the wrong size!)

A 3 feet 3/16 vacuum hose to replace the small hose from the intake manifold to the PTC valve. I prefer silicone hose for this.

Optional, get 6 of this. I like their clamps.
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/4768/105027-hose-clamp-15-24mm-12mm-width

Optional, wireloom to protect the hose.

Take a unibit and drill out the PTC valve holes to as big as you feel comfortable. I think I drilled mine out to about 1/2 inch.

Remove the intake manifold and replace that stock PCV hose, I cut a short hose and then use a 90 degree elbow, than a long hose to the PTC valve. Replace the vacuum hose to the intake manifold to the PTC valve with the new one. Then reinstall the intake manifold.

All the crankcase gas have to go thru that tiny PTC hole!!!

Installed on car