Some of the issues the car has that I need to address.....

Oil consumption. I go through a quart a week or so. I’ve fixed the leaks, so it’s being burned. Is the turbo worn out? Is it the valve stem seals? Maybe it’s both! I check the dipstick every fill up and usually end up adding a quart every 2nd fill.

If the car idles very long, it smokes grey out the exhaust a lot. It’s more than a little embarrassing.

Oil pressure. Occasionally, the oil light flickers in the dash. Just for a second or two and goes out. I’m told the oil pan may need to be dropped and ‘de sludged’ and resealed.

This is an interesting problem for me for sure. I can’t decide whether I should drop the pan, do all the work, slap on a rebuilt cylinder head and maybe a slightly larger turbo and drive on, or do an engine swap.

If I swap, I have at least 3 choices.

1. The engine from my totaled 97 850R wagon, a ~175k N engine that had a bit of a lifter tick. Pan has never been dropped. I did rebuild the head at about 130k due to a burnt valve, but I used fel pro valve stem seals and a reinz head gasket kit. So it either needs the pan resealed, some lifters replaced, and potentially a head swap to get OE gaskets in the engine
2. A B5244T5 / K24 combo from an 06 s60 t5. Combo has roughly 100k on it.
3. A B5244T5 / K24 / FWD M66 combo from an 07 S60 T5M I own, around 170k miles. Car is a salvage car I considered rebuilding but decided against.
4. Some other engine I haven’t found / pulled / bought yet

I’m struggling with which option to choose. The 2nd gear synchros are also on the way out, sometimes pops out of gear when cornering. It’s been that way for the last 40k though. So, either a replacement m56, or ideally that M66, would make sense at the same time.

Until the white 850r is drivable, I don’t expect to even consider doing the swap.

And, there’s part of me who says fix the original engine and see how long it lasts as a tribute to Volvos longevity.

 

I’m confused by the c70 subframe. You have a much better setup in the car already. Why change it?

Oil consumption is likely all seals. Turbo, valve stems, maybe rings but these engines stay tight in that regard most of the time.

Your suggested engine swap possibilities leave a lot to be desired in terms of ancillary supporting mods or value to work/money.

If it were my project, I would source a new trans. Easy. Check compression. If good, roll with that block. Dump the subframe with driveline on it and work on it out of the car. New CHRA, separately source and refresh/maybe port a N head. Keep it decently stock so it’s not a Frankenstein, fix the tired bits with better than new and then just drive it.

 

I'm confused by the c70 subframe. You have a much better setup in the car already. Why change it.

The c70 subframe I pulled because the rear trans mount I got for the m66 uses the 4 bolt control arm subframe. I agree the 2 bolt control arms are superior. I just didn't know any other way to make it all bolt up.

 

I'd be more inclined to fab up a mount than to swap the 4-bolt subframe, personally.

 

So, at nearly 360k, the oil pressure got worse, so a more immediate fix was required. And because I work all the time.... a mechanic friend came to the rescue!

Subframe dropped

Pan removed

Piece of paper in the pickup. Need to cut open the filter and see if this came out of the filter!

O-ring for the oil pickup also was failed, that pic won't upload for some reason.

C70 subframe and new Lemfoerder control arms are being installed at the moment, along with a good 16t. Hoping that fixes a lot of the consumption problem - but won't know until it's back on the road. Supposed to be finished this weekend!

Been driving an 05 XC70 this week as a loaner. Interesting car. Has some charms to it for sure, but it lacks that essential p80 charm...

 

Has some charms to it for sure, but it lacks that essential p80 charm...

Gotta drive the right P2 before P2s make any sense. I didn't get it till I drove my S60. I wasn't that excited about even bothering to go look at it, but I was hooked within the first block of driving it.

 

Today's project... radiator decided to blow out the seal on the passenger side tank last night at 1 AM.

Thankfully it happened a half mile or less from home and I was able to limp it home.

Thankfully, I had a Nissen rad on the shelf that I'd picked up for another project and not needed. Install was fairly quick and painless.

I also have a DO88 radiator and intercooler setup on the shelf for this car, but need to change my intake out for a NA intake first as my RIP kit is for the larger throttle body. Didn't have time for that today, so I had to go the other route.

 

Got a flat the other day. Really starting to regret selling the 9 extra Volans I had in 2017!

Guess the next ones I find, I keep. And in the meantime, I better find another spare for this car in case I decide to drive it before spring!

 

It’s nearly springtime here, and I am ready to get the black car back on the road.

Found a pretty dang nice Volans wheel at a salvage yard for $100. Replaced the cracked one. Threw 2 new tires on the rear.

Spent a good 2 hours cleaning out the interior, trying to freshen things up a bit from kids riding in the car over the last couple years.

Went to pop the hood to check the oil, and the passenger side won’t release. It’s been a bit flaky over the last 6 months, either lifting the hood while pulling the release, or holding the passenger side down, it would release. Now nothing.

Don’t wanna drive it til I check all the fluids.

So, what’s my next step? I’m not sure I can get the car lifted up high enough in my driveway to try and pop the lever on the latch.

Maybe break the corner lens out and try to trip it through the hole the wires come through?

I’m wondering if the cable broke... any sage advice if you’ve been there?

Once I get in, I need to decide what is getting done to this car this year....

 

Does this help? Maybe work carefully.

It's nearly springtime here, and I am ready to get the black car back on the road.

Found a pretty dang nice Volans wheel at a salvage yard for $100. Replaced the cracked one. Threw 2 new tires on the rear.

Spent a good 2 hours cleaning out the interior, trying to freshen things up a bit from kids riding in the car over the last couple years.

Went to pop the hood to check the oil, and the passenger side won't release. It's been a bit flaky over the last 6 months, either lifting the hood while pulling the release, or holding the passenger side down, it would release. Now nothing.

Don't wanna drive it til I check all the fluids.

So, what's my next step? I'm not sure I can get the car lifted up high enough in my driveway to try and pop the lever on the latch.

Maybe break the corner lens out and try to trip it through the hole the wires come through?

I'm wondering if the cable broke... any sage advice if you've been there?

Once I get in, I need to decide what is getting done to this car this year....

 

One of the latches was hanging up on my T5 recently.

Do you have a helper that could pull the release while you push/pull on the hood? Could just be sticky and need some assistance.

 

One of the latches was hanging up on my T5 recently.

Do you have a helper that could pull the release while you push/pull on the hood? Could just be sticky and need some assistance.

Yes, one of my kids helped me yesterday. I don't know if the cable broke or it's just sticking, but it doesn't want to open. I tried pushing and pulling. I tried wedging something in there to lift it while I pulled too.

 

Well, after a rough day at work, I decided to give the hood release a closer look. Was determined to get in, whatever the cost may be....

So, I pulled the lever inside the car, heard 2 clicks instead of the usual one, and it was open! Didn't have to do any contortionist things or break that turn signal lens out. I did give the latch a good spritz of silicone spray and cycled it several times with a screwdriver before I closed the hood again. It came open 4 more times tonight with no issues, fingers crossed.

Inspected the cables and the ends are intact and undamaged. The one running from side to side seems like it might be a little stretched? I'll grab one at the salvage yard.

Topped the oil off, fired right up and I noticed some oil on the front of the engine. Noticed bubbles blowing around the dipstick tube. The car passed a glove test in late fall / early winter, so I'll replace the dip stick o-ring and test again.

I've got a NA intake manifold and 960 throttle puck for this car, so if I need to pull the intake to change the PCV, it'll be a nice upgrade to throw on.

Also noticed the CarPlay radio I installed last fall is dead as a door nail. Fuse under the hood is good. I'll pop it out and see if it's fuse is good. If it is, it has a 1 year warranty and I guess I send it off. Or upgrade. Maybe both as the pioneer in my other wagon really makes the power acoustic head unit seem kinda crappy.

Filled the tank.

Also threw a bit of an interior detail job on the car. Not 100% happy but it's light years better than it was.

I've missed shifting gears

 

Glad you were able to get it open with minimal fuss, eventually.

I'm looking forward to when I can get the manual swapped into my T5.

 

John - if I’m ever lucky enough to have a true daily I want that tag! Didn’t notice until today. Nice job on the car, and the hood open. You’re right- it was a 70 not and 850.

 

I'm gonna have to find me a fire extinguisher like yours, a good location as well.

 

This is the 'Bracketeer'

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015G3QXMY/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A3C0S6Z8OLVDPV&psc=1

And I also used a metal fire extinguisher mount as the plastic one that came with the extinguisher seemed kinda crappy

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00002NC0N/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

The original fire extinguisher I bought from Amazon for this car is NLA, but after I used the original one I was able to find a suitable replacement at Walmart.

 

So, I’ve heard a few different theories when changing the dipstick tube seal.

Some say oil the new seal first

Some say put a little silicone spray on the new seal first

Some say put heavy grease on the new seal, or RTV...

What’s gonna give me the best chance of the new seal not leaking?

Also, does anyone know the torque value for the oil pressure sensor? Need to replace it on the car and it’s got a metal crush washer...

Thanks!

 

Engine and transmission out of the 07 S60 T5M today for the black 850R. This won't be an immediate project, but the carcass has to go... so some progress is being made.

 

Damn. If those wheels are good, I'd love to have em and send some Tellus to the yard with the carcass.

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what was wrong with the S60?

If you haven't been following it, take a look through my 850R thread to get an idea of the challenges you can expect to run into with this project; as far as attaching it all to the car it should be identical. I would definitely recommend holding onto at least the airbox + brackets, rear trans mount, shift cables, and shifter for now. Some or all of it may be useful to your project depending on how you approach it. I'm hoping my 850R will be running before the end of the month so we'll know how all this stuff plays together before you start your swap.

 

Was hit front and rear. Needed a windshield. Needed the entire front clip, 2 bumper covers, some time on a frame rack in the front end, an exhaust system and 1 adaptive headlight. Both were damaged but the passenger side was probably salvageable. I actually started buying parts to fix it and it felt like my kids had less room in the back of this than my 850 wagon. So it seemed like the best thing to do was use what I could from it to make my 850R even better.

I watched another black 07 T5M sit for sale at a dealer in MD for months. Started at 5k and got as low as 3k and I see it finally sold. No telling what they got from it. Since I wasn't truly excited about the car and I already overspent looking at what sale price would be with a branded title, that helped me make the decision as well.

I'll check out the thread, thanks. This is gonna go on the pallet rack probably until 2021. Have a huge home improvement project pending - needed the space the S60 occupied for the construction dumpster.

I have a s40 shifter and shift cable set from a t5m, someone told me that's what I'd need. The car has already been m56 swapped.

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Package of goodies arrived today!

All from Mikael Pettersson Racing Equipment in Sweden - mpre.se

Mikael is a nice, helpful guy, and worked through a language barrier with me.

First item is an engine mount.

Compared to stock, it really looks like it's gonna raise the engine up. The mount pictured with it is an OE mount with about 25k miles on it. I'm sure it's sagging a little, but doubt it's sagging significantly.

Next are delta link bushings. I have a c70 delta link I intend to get powder coated before installing these and replacing the one in my car.

A new Febi Bilstein bushing is pictured above the replacement. I have the Volvo installation / removal tool with Skandix brace, so hopefully the originals won't put up much of a battle.

A short shift bracket.

Finally, a solid aluminum crank pulley to replace the harmonic balancer.

Since it's a billion degrees outside, we will see how quickly I get motivated to install these parts

It took a little over a month for the package to arrive on my front door. 2/3rds of that time, the box was sitting in US customs.

 

Wow. Very interesting! Definitely following your journey. Looking to do an M66 in my 850 one day as well. If there are parts you can't find or don't exist I am happy to look at making small runs.

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Wow. Very interesting! Definitely following your journey. Looking to do an M66 in my 850 one day as well. If there are parts you can't find or don't exist I am happy to look at making small runs.

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Check out my thread. The challenges encountered between the two projects will be identical because both will be using late RN and P2 M66s.

 

Interesting batch of toys. That stock engine mount doesn't look crushed to me. Is the new mount meant for pairing with lowering springs to correct axle angle or ??

Are those solid delta link bushings? I've heard of the existence of those but have never looked farther into them because I like the passive rear steer. I'll be curious to hear what you think of the handling with them. Delta link bushings are a BREEZE with the tool. Heat is your friend if they don't want to come out......or if you have Febi bushings in there now they're so flimsy you might just pull the core out of them LOL :facepalm:. Lube up the bearing in the tool before use.

I only use the reinforcement attachment for install.


My UPS and DHL packages are almost always cleared through customs in a day or two at most. Everything else is liable to sit for a loooooong time.

 

I only use the reinforcement attachment for install.

Is there another piece that comes with the Volvo tool?

 

It’s not necessary. Easier to tap the bushing into place with a dead low and a wooden drift.

 

Yeah the shipping when buying international is always expensive... so it’s best to go in with some friends and get everyone’s wants together and split the shipping.

All the stuff I got from MPRE was dang near $100 to ship - if I’d ordered it a piece at a time I expect I’d be spending half that or more each time.

 

I've missed shifting gears [/QUOTE]

I like your shift boot.... what did you source it from?

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I've missed shifting gears

I like your shift boot.... what did you source it from?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro[/QUOTE]

Pretty sure it's from the donor car

 

So I had these mounted up. Haven't installed yet, need to roll the fenders to make clearance. Got tired of looking at them. If they make the ride that horrible, I'll either sell them or save them for a p2.

Got tired of everything being burned out in the dash, so started installing some LEDs. Plain white LEDs changed the backlight color slightly.... but I'll live with that for now.

LEDs for the gauge cluster are on order. Will pull the dash pad and replace the bulbs in the cluster next.

 

I run 14v incandescent in my cars....i figure that'll last me long enough to be happy

 

Nebulas ftw. Those will look so good! Hope you can tolerate the ride.

 

So it’s been awhile since this car got much if anyone love.

Today, I put on a new OEM PCV kit, NA intake with 960 throttle disc, DO88 radiator, big pack intercooler and associated RIP kit.

Also did the fan mod.

Earlier this spring, I swapped out the starter and both battery cables.

There isn’t a lot of room to get that radiator and intercooler in there!