No way to adjust it, but it should have a solid linear feel. May be time to bleed the system.

 

I think bleeding it would do the opposite of what I'm looking for, since I'd like it to engage lower on the pedal. I was hoping there was a rod or lever in the system I could cut down somehow.

Also, the pedal squeaks when released, and it's definitely coming from inside the car. Any ideas of what to check/lubricate?

 

Hmm... There may be something you could adjust if you're willing to cut it, but I wouldn't want to risk damaging something.

Squeak could just be from the little helper spring at the base of the pedal. Look under there and you should see it, maybe a little WD40 will help.

 

The system is not designed to be adjusted manually. The PP design adjusts the clearance to maintain the correct pedal engagement. If you no longer have proper travel or engagement, then it's time to replace clutch and/or hydraulic components. The only mechanic rod you could alter is the one between the pedal and the master cylinder, and you would gain nothing by messing with it. Do it right or leave it alone.

 

New development: Beginning a few days ago, the clutch has felt markedly softer when cold, but generally returns to normal after a few minutes of driving. Last night, the pedal started sticking about halfway up. It still engages and disengages fully, so the car is still drivable, but something is obviously wrong. It feels as if the system has either lost fluid or gained air, implying a leak, but so far there's no trace of fluid on the floor. I did a little googling and there are plenty of examples of this problem with the slave cylinder being the most likely culprit. Is that a good place to start? Other things to check first?

 

The slave cylinder is inside the bell housing. You will need to remove the trans & service the entire clutch while you re at it.

 

Yes, I already found that out, much to my dismay. Therefore I'd like to be very, VERY sure of the problem before I do anything.

Having driven the car some more, the issue seems to be intermittent. Sometimes it sticks, sometimes it comes up weakly, sometimes it's almost normal. That seems unusual for a hydraulic failure. And not one drop of fluid anywhere. Could something be binding mechanically?

 

If it gets stuck, just pump the clutch like 10 times and it'll be back to normal.

I had both Master and Slave replaced, though I'm still having issues... My clutch only sticks / comes up half way, after driving for 30+ miles without shifting. Annoying when it happens on the highway. But if I'm frequently shifting, then I have no problems.

Having spoken with another master tech, he thinks it may be the lines. A small pin hole that is letting air in but not letting air out.

One thing to check immediately is the reservoir cap. Make sure the rubber seal stays with the cap. If you take the cap off and the seal remains stuck to the reservoir, then it needs to be replaced. $6 part.
I replaced my cap a few months ago and that greatly helped my problem, but still having occasional issues. It made sense too... Hook up a pressure tester and it says I have no leaks. But the pressure tester goes on in place of the cap. The cap was slowly releasing pressure, so on those extended drives, the clutch went soft.

Bleeding the system has also proven to be a temporary fix, but I'm still tracking down what the issue may be. When the slave truly went out, the pedal would stick to the floor. I had to drive without using the clutch at all. I doubt it would just be an intermittent thing.

 

Bleeding the clutch seems to have solved it. The old fluid was not only black, but THICK, like cold gear oil. My best guess is that the viscosity of the fluid was slowing or impeding movement, particularly in colder weather. I've never seen hydraulic fluid turn thick before though, so that's a bit of a mystery. Anyway, no recurrence of the problem so far!

 

Good news. 6 years is a long time for any hydraulic fluid - esp. since brake fluid is hydroscopic.

 

I spoke too soon; it went soft again. My problem seems identical to MyNameIdeasWereTaken's. Lots of shifting, all is well; if it sits for a while, or on a long drive, it goes soft. Bleeding it solved it more decisively, but only for about three days.

The cap seems OK in that the seal stays with it, but for $6 it might be worth replacing anyway.

 

I hate to seem excited about your misfortune, I am very sorry that you are experiencing the same problems that I am. But I'm glad I'm not the only one!
Hopefully we can figure this out together.

I have a new Master cylinder and a new Slave cylinder, new reservoir cap and the reservoir is not leaking.

Bled the system and all is mostly good. But if I'm on the highway for more than 20 miles with no clutch use, then it will require some pumping to build up enough pressure for the clutch pedal to behave normally.
Strangely enough, I can leave my car parked for multiple days and the clutch will be fine when I get in. So the loss of pressure only occurs when the car is on.

I guess the next step will be to replace the clutch fluid lines... I just haven't been bothered to yet.

 

Did you replace the hydraulic line (flex section expanding under pressure?) or the elbow fitting / junction with the the restrictor? Maybe that is stuck due to gumming?

 

I did not and I will have to check that. Thanks for the lead!

 

Sorry for opening a very old thread.
Did you finally manage to solve the issue?
if yes, what was the root cause?

 

You can get this. Click Me
The clutch spring on the pedal is actually 2 springs. That is why it does not feel smooth. This is a direct fit replacement for the 2 springs with 1. They also have a good install video on the page.

 

Depends what his issue is - if its a "soft" pedal - the spring makes no difference to that - plus it introduces slack at the top of the throw, it has been noted.

 

It does add a little slack at the top. I noted this after I got as well. However, I am used to it now and for me feels much better than with the original springs. I don't notice the slack.

 

Got a 2013 C30 and have recently replaced master and slave as well as a new clutch. However the clutch pedal has a really long travel required on 1st and Reverse gears. Its finre the rest of the gear changes. any ideas?

 

I thought I saw somewhere that you go to the shift linkages and somehow release them and they would adjust with minimal/zero effort. Did you try that first? Perhaps if you had been too “enthusiastic” it might explain why they are out of adjustment now. If you haven’t, I would research and find that procedure and try it. What I am referring to is the 6-speed tranny (M66?) with the T5 engine, and the procedure is the same on a 2007 S40 and a 2010 c30.