You need to understand, these cars are approaching antique status.
Combined with lower production numbers-than a comparable BMW/MB/Porsche etc., makes for quite a headache when things break (as most parts are NLA from Volvo).
In terms of aftermarket support, there's practically nothing available outside of IPD. There's a few suppliers in Europe, but most sites aren't in English and you'll spend more time on forums/classifieds than you will driving it.

With all that said, if you are looking for a great garage/lawn ornament, I say "go for it"!

 

Oh I understand just fine they are old cars.
See the part about owning a 97 Jeep XJ, and the 77 Celica.
The Jeep was prolific so thats easy to deal with obviously.
The Celica is barely Celica anymore, with rotors from a mini, brakes from an rx7, engine from a JDM IS300, and so on.

 

Welcome, wia. You sound like someone for whom a p80 (1994-2000) could be a good fit. There are other vendors besides IPD, and usually they are less expensive. FCP Euro is a great source and offers a lifetime warranty. While it is true some parts have become hard to find new, if you are okay with buying used parts from junkyards or off ebay, etc., you will be fine with the P80s. And while it is always good to consider warnings before any major endeavor, there are certainly other views. Stick around this forum and you will learn who the reliable and regular contributors to it are.

 

For your sake, avoid any AWD car 2000 and earlier. Parts don’t exist, they are a nightmare to work on, and aren’t dynamically as good as the FWD P80 cars. A good T5 is a much better choice.

There also is the problem that almost every single one will need a plethora of maintenance work done when you buy it.

I’d also avoid importing one, as there’s lots of RHD specific parts that will fail eventually, and you’ll basically have to learn Japanese to source new parts, assuming they even still exist over there.

04-07 P2 Rs have their own issues, but have a massive community around them and as long as you find a really nicely sorted car, you should be fine there. P2s are also built better, with far less oddball failures and more widely available parts. They generally don’t crack blocks unless overheated or overboosted, and while they can be somewhat expensive to maintain if not taken care of before your ownership, they are better cars to live with.

Unless you don’t mind getting your hands dirty on a frequent basis and diving deep when it comes to research and parts sourcing, I would avoid P80 (especially Rs and AWD cars) and go P2 instead.

Keep in mind that P2 T5 and 2.5T cars exist and are generally simpler cars that are easier to live with and generally don’t have the expensive R problems - they make fantastic daily drivers, and would be my personal recommendation for someone who’s new to these cars and just wants a solid daily.

 

I won't caution you to stay away from the P80R cars. What I will tell you is that you will need to be ready for what they are going to need at 150k plus miles almost all of them have and 28+ years of age.

Rear subframe has to come out for a fuel pump, which is a common P80 issue as is. Not to mention the OEM pump is discontinued.

Angle gear is in the way of turbo access and any other back of the engine jobs. Real PIA to work around.

Rear shocks (nivomats) are hard to get but still available at this time, $330 a side when I ordered them last fall. There are not many compatible replacement options due to the rear independent setup.

Driveshafts fail and require a rebuild by a specific company in Colorado, or a used unit.

2000 V70R's have the problematic 5 speed, not the tried and true 4 speed automatic. DO NOT buy one of these 00's unless it has had a rebuilt transmission. Even then, it's a gamble. There are also a few 00' specific AWD components. It's a shame as they also have the best engine-turbo setup from the factory (19T with 2.3 HPT block).

I like to think I knew what I was getting into. The sweet spot for these cars are the 99's. They have ME7 (instead of the M4.4 engine management of the old P80's) that makes them much more diagnosable and daily drivable.

Do I regret my choice? Sometimes. My rear main seal needs replaced and it will be much harder to do then dropping the subframe and trans on a regular FWD P80. But at the end of the day my R is relatively clean and so far it has yet to have a major, unrecoverable issue.

If you understand the risks, and you can manage the costs and part finding, these are rewarding cars. I drive it, and my regret goes away and my joy returns. Then I hit a pothole and feel the dash attempt to escape the interior .

I concur with finding a T5 if you aren't willing to take the dive. Search the forums for recent R maintenance threads / rebuild threads and you'll all find we're making steady progress on our cars but most of them are CONTINUAL labors of love.

 

Rear subframe has to come out for a fuel pump, which is a common P80 issue as is. Not to mention the OEM pump is discontinued.

I've seen it done while leaving that all in place. Disconnecting the prophaft, and removing the front bolt on the VC unit, then taking off the front tank straps allows just enough room for the rear driveline pieces to pivot downwards.
Fuel pump can be swapped out for a replacement cartridge like a DW300.
Still many other tedious jobs given the age overall.

 

Thanks fro the insights one the p80s. I'm not averse to working on old cars with hard to find parts. I might be a bit averse to working on 2 of them at the same time though
The Celica has a BEAMS 3S-GE that comes from Japan, so I understand the rarity of parts all too well. Not too concerned about the RHD thing and parts there, but its a good point.

I think I might try to land a newer model instead of the p80s if parts are actually no longer available though. What are the p2 things to look out for?

 

The biggest parts sourcing issue for all RHD P80s is steering racks, for which good remans don't exist even for the LHD cars that were sold here and are a common failure point. Trim stuff, interior panels, and replacement parts for some JDM-only options will not exist, especially stateside.

Almost all AWD stuff (shocks that aren't Genuine, all bushings, diff, viscous coupling, angle gears, etc) doesn't exist anywhere either, though most FWD stuff does. They are also much more difficult and expensive to work on and fix than their FWD counterparts.

I'm actually in the process of swapping my '98 V70 AWD to FWD due to lack of parts availability for AWD. When properly sorted a FWD P80 car is a fantastic machine, but you have to be prepared for it to be a constant project and be prepared to spend some time and money getting it up to snuff before implementing it for daily duty.

'99+ P80 is a massive refinement improvement over '98. P2 is an even bigger improvement over that. Since you seem to already have a project or two, I'd recommend sticking to a P2 car as a daily. They're safer, better built, easier to diagnose, the AWD systems work well and aren't any more painful/expensive than the FWD variant, and they tend to have less issues generally, especially later cars.

A really well-sorted R is a great car, but I'd personally seek out a nice 2.5T or T5 car, as they deliver a fantastic driving experience without the special R-specific maintenance headaches. Most 2.5Ts and T5s do not have the expensive 4C suspension, don't crack blocks, etc, and are much cheaper repair if something does go wrong.

Try to find an '06 or '07, as they are eligible for a Polestar tune, which is essentially a factory stage 1 tune that is done at the dealer and not only adds power, but drastically improves throttle response and transmission programming, plus more rear bias on AWD cars. It's a very transformative upgrade.

 

P2Rs will need suspension work at $500 a shock due to the active suspension they came with. Stay away from model year 2004-2005. They had a worse 5 speed auto than later model years.

CEM / BCM modules will die if they get wet from sunroof drains clogging. Throttle body modules may also need replacement, as well as ABS modules and steering angle sensors.

Electronics aside, they also can have block cracking issues. They used an enlarged version of the more stout HPT block that were in the T5, but once you go past stock power levels you start testing their abilities to hold together. Some people have even had to shim stock blocks as well.

The AWD systems are more strong than the P80Rs, being Haldex based. They will require maintenance and replacement of diff and haldex fluids.

 

4C is easily replaced with conventional suspension or coilovers if desired, especially on '04 cars.

I like the AW55 5 speed, and I'm not sure why people say to stay away. It's a great transmission. Yes they can have issues with higher mileage, but not every car does, and the ones that do usually have the shift flare/hard shift issue resolved with a new valve body, which is ~$550. I did it in my '04 XC70 and it wasn't a horrible job.

 

As a dual P80R owner you really do accept some risks. As most have stated above, a solid T5 FWD will serve you much better. I found a '96 854R years back after looking for one in memory of 854NA Manual. Other than tight quarters for the standard maintenance items, the FWD P80 have been very good to me.
For contrast my '98 V70R has been a mixed bag. Found early on in the pandemic, the car wasn't too bad at all as the rear drive shaft had already been pulled and needed front shocks and some mounts. I got a good two years out of it with no real issues. Last summer the big issues mentioned by others started to crop up. Timing, water, PCV, heater core, radiator, new hoses, and RIP kit were done and then the dreaded fuel pump failure during a road trip. I was fortunate enough to be in a town with family nearby and contacts at the local Volvo dealer to get it diagnosed. Many suggested the rear subframe/axle swap as OEM pumps are NLA and the A/M are generally more performance oriented. At this point I'm pretty much in too deep to walk away just yet. What is tough to deny is the aesthetic of the V70 - a true classic silhouette.

 

Yeah, the look of the V70 is just nice. Something about it. I don't know if I'll get an R or settle for a T5 or 2.5T at this rate, but I'm still leaning heavily into V70s. Not much else is really catching my attention.

 

Sounds like you're capable and not afraid to work on cars. I have both an 00R and 99T5. The T5 will have less issues and is just as peppy as an R because its about 500LBS lighter w/out AWD. But the R interior is sooo much better and the sound of the 2.4, 19T and dual factory exhaust is more satisfying than the T5.

I've also owned a couple P2's (01 S60's) but got tired of the electrical issues. Maybe that was due to early year production.

I wouldn't get discouraged about the electronic throttle modules. You can buy newer contactless OEM one's on Ebay for 200 bucks. Need to buy the Turbo specific one.

Keep an eye on this thread for possible candidates.

https://www.swedespeed.com/forums/fwd-awd-cars-for-sale.34/

click on the "non affiliated" thread, it changes names every month but still includes "non affiliated"

If you purchase a P80 98-00, start a new thread here, there are extremely knowledgeable helpful members here that will help you through any challenges you may encounter.

Good luck on your search !

 

If you really want to buy an older wagon P2 2005-2007 is your best bet.

As mentioned previously, 2.5T low pressure turbo is the best way to go.

I would not limit my search to AWD unless you need it where you live.

Not having AWD means it will be faster and have less possible issues.

You will need to be prepared for it to likely need a lot of work and money.

You aren't going to just drive it and it's a perfect daily driver.

It could be for a while until something big hits but it will happen just due to age.

These are the best of the older Volvo wagons if you want something old.

While those can still require a lot anything older would be a guaranteed disaster.

I would avoid P80 Volvos like the plague just due to age.

P2's are just much better than P80's I have owned both.

You have to be fully prepared to put a lot of money into anything used you buy.

I was going to say I would avoid an R due to amount of boost they run engine could be tired or worn.

Also due to the 4C system with Monroe struts I think is crap.

The stock Sachs struts are actually very good on the P2's I owned.

The stock struts never left me thinking I needed to go to Bilsteins.

When I replaced at like 150K I ended up going with stock OEM Sachs again.

I remember winding back roads my wife was able to pull on other vehicles that couldn't keep up.

Same with brakes one of my favorite things about P2's are I believe they have the BEST brakes.

The stock Volvo OEM pads and rotors were extremely durable unless they changed them.

Personally I wouldn't rule out the higher off the ground 2005-2007 P2 XC70.

They seem more readily available especially 2006-2007 XC70's.

I just wish Volvo didn't make these with the gray trim pieces they would have looked better.

Remember that people don't get rid of vehicles because they are happy with them.

People usually get rid of vehicles because there is an issue they are not telling you.

DO NOT believe what any private party or dealer lot tells you they will say anything.

Again I cannot stress it enough you will need a lot of extra money.

I completely agree the 208HP low pressure turbo is a great engine.

My 2005 S80 was quick with a throaty authoritative tone.

As stated the low pressure turbo is not high revving but puts out max torque at very low RPM.

It makes this engine have a nice direct punch.

If the engine is in great condition it should be able to throw your head back in the seat.

Surprisingly as crazy as it sounds sometimes I feel my S80 felt like it often had more of a direct punch than my 2019 and 2022 XC90 T6's with Polestar upgrades and 330HP partially due to dumbed down transmission programming in newer Volvos and lack of hard kickdown.

I couldn't imagine my S80 with the Polestar upgrade it would have been fun.

You aren't going to find a Volvo with it already installed most people didn't know about it.

I have heard people talking dealers down to $800 on older Volvos. They seem more militant on newer Volvos I couldn't get them down more than $1400 for my SPA Volvos.

Another thing I liked about P2's is the transmission programming.

It felt very sophisticated like it would anticipate and adapt to your driving.

If you drove easy with slow pedal input transmission shifted and responded slower and smoother.

If you punched it it's like the transmission quickly woke up and shifting became more aggressive.

I actually feel like P2 transmission programming felt much more sophsticated than with new Volvos.

I would stick to Volvo OEM parts on everything.

volvopartswebstore.com is a great place to buy parts.

When i changed the radiators on my P3's I went with Volvo OEM.

It's just not worth taking the risk of aftermarket.

Don't expect to just buy one of these and it's a perfect daily driver.

I have a family member that purchased a 2005 Mercedes with like 3,000 miles on it that was garaged and it immediately needed like $5,000 worth of work just due to age so know what you are buying.

Anyway I hope this information helps!

 

Who convinced this guy p2s are better built and more reliable than p80s lolll

OP once upon a time Volvo was a nice lil Swedish company, but just then big bad Ford bought them, stole all the tech for the Mazda bois, and left the lil Swedish company to die

What followed the sale was the first wave, the P2s…

A good one is yes an 05+ T5, the weight feels like it’s been perfectly stretched across the lowest possible point, and they haul. They look awesome. They are nightmares.

Everyone is always selling their P2Rs. The best ones, the nice ones, the high mileage and the low. Why is that?

I sold an 05 V70T5 six speed once. You could blink on the highway and push it from 120 to 180. It would try and burn the tires off for the first 3 gears. I loved that car and don’t regret that it’s gone. However you can pry a nice p80 out of my cold dead hands.

If anyone thinks this is just my opinion and not actual science, it can be verified with a simple experiment. Open your car buying site of choice, find a p2V that you think you could consider, then do the same for a p80V. The crickets that you will hear are the love sounds of the p80 owner, driving a car they cherish.*

*does not apply to awd models

 

Who convinced this guy p2s are better built and more reliable than p80s lolll

OP once upon a time Volvo was a nice lil Swedish company, but just then big bad Ford bought them, stole all the tech for the Mazda bois, and left the lil Swedish company to die

What followed the sale was the first wave, the P2s…

A good one is yes an 05+ T5, the weight feels like it’s been perfectly stretched across the lowest possible point, and they haul. They look awesome. They are nightmares.

Everyone is always selling their P2Rs. The best ones, the nice ones, the high mileage and the low. Why is that?

I sold an 05 V70T5 six speed once. You could blink on the highway and push it from 120 to 180. It would try and burn the tires off for the first 3 gears. I loved that car and don’t regret that it’s gone. However you can pry a nice p80 out of my cold dead hands.

If anyone thinks this is just my opinion and not actual science, it can be verified with a simple experiment. Open your car buying site of choice, find a p2V that you think you could consider, then do the same for a p80V. The crickets that you will hear are the love sounds of the p80 owner, driving a car they cherish.*

*does not apply to awd models

Or, because they’re older and less common. lol at the AWD disclaimer

P2s have slightly less character, but they are better cars for most people, with less problems, easier parts sourcing, and better engineering. Keep in mind that P2 was completely developed before Ford’s acquisition in 1999, and Ford influence only started to show up (very mildly, unlike P1 and P3) after the refresh in 05

 

Ha that response I just read is exactly why I typically dislike forums.

People come out of the cuts telling you or something you experienced yourself is somehow wrong.

I'm going to start out by saying I respect your opinion and feelings but I do get to respond.

I am going to also respond based on first hand experience owning 14 Volvos over the years.

I currently also own a fleet of 4 Volvos and have performed a lot of my own work on these in the past.

I respect your opinion but I strongly disagree and I will explain why below with my actual experience.

First of all that tired Ford line is incorrect and I have seen no influence on P2 platform.

After seeing my P2 V70 and S80 looking closely in the engine compartment, underneath and interior components and doing some of my own work in the past the only thing stamped with a Ford logo that was a Ford part in those entire vehicles was ONE CLIP under the hood and the Fuel Pump Control Module which was BOSCH and shared with Ford vehicles stamped Ford. Is it the engine? NO that was a VOLVO 5cyl. Is it the transmission? NO it is the same AISIN transmission Volvo has used but a 5 speed version instead of a 4 speed. How about the brakes, NO Ford or TRW parts either just ATE calipers and pads Volvo uses. How about steering and suspension components TRW parts Ford uses? NO just traditional European brand parts Volvo has used. How about the stereo? NO, typical great Volvo audio system supplied by Alpine or Mitsubishi. How about sensors well in my V70 there were Denso sensors but Japanese automakers use those so that's not necessarily a Ford thing and my S80 had all Bosch sensors. How about suspension, Monroe struts? Nope SACHS struts which European automakers use so I don't know where people get this Ford stuff from when it comes to P2 and I honestly feel like it must be from people that haven't owned these vehicles. This in my opinion was just a total rumor started from people online in forums freaking out about Ford buying Volvo.

How about the design, I don't see it P2's are very European and Volvo like I don't see it at all.

Future automobiles are generally planned years in advance so I doubt these were Ford designs.

I strongly disagree given all of the facts that I have seen first hand.

I have owned two P80's an 850 T5 and a 1998 V70 with mechanical throttle linkage.

I avoided ETM like the plague luckily and I went with the 1998 V70.

While they weren't bad vehicles they were rough around the edges and not as refined.

P2's had a far better ride that was more isolated and P80's were more crude.

When we first test drove our P2's before buying we were blown away with how refined they were.

Sure if you are some street racer and not a mature adult somebody may prefer P80's.

Let's talk my experience with P80's . . . .

When going from a 1980's Turbo Volvo to an 850 it was a huge leap and was great.

My experience lots of vibration and just very crude overall. From my experience and in my opinion terrible cooling fan relay design prone to cause engine to overheat if you turn AC off on the climate control. I have picked up relays from wrecked vehicles at the junk yard that were also bad meaning people were unknowingly driving around with their vehicles overheating yeah that's something people want right? The design was just really bad or Volvo had a huge batch of bad cooling fan relays where it still happened with new cooling fan relays in my opinion. My advice to anybody that owns a P80 is ALWAYS keep AC turned ON for climate control otherwise unreliable from my experience.

If these ever overheat even slightly then lifters become blocked from cooked oil.

Then you are driving around with loud tapping lifters until fully warmed up.

I tried engine oil flush additives and racing the vehicle around to free them up.

It never worked damn engines need a lifter job after this happens.

The squeaky dashes were great I remember removing dash to put clear grease on contact points.

Also the sump O-Rings tend to degrade and oil pickup is sucking up air that's good too.

I remember that one as well with my 1998 V70.

Older is more solid right they don't make em' like they used to right?

One time I was checking suspension rebound on my 1998 V70 and pushed down on the fender.

It left a huge dent and I was shocked that a Volvo body panel could dent in that easily!

It gets better I remember using a jack on my 1998 V70 and the middle of the subframe bent in!

After that I started always using a piece of long solid wood to put the jack under.

I had to have power steering rack replaced because it was leaking bad seals failed.

RPM would randomly drop at idle so I replaced plugs, wires, all sensors, continued.

I finally narrowed down to the ECU after replacing ECU idle never dropped again.

The brakes just sucked I remember replacing Volvo rotors and pads and pulsation soon after again.

Then even though it had regular oil changes and PVC system was clear oil seals started leaking.

The ride wasn't good even with new Volvo OEM struts and mounts it felt like bottoming out at times.

Although I put a lot into it I decided to dump that sh** fast before more serious issues.

After we test drove the two P2's we bought they were a HUGE STEP UP just from driving them.

They were much more refined with a still sporty but much better overall ride.

Then after owning each for well over 100,000 miles they were just awesome.

We did have an engine go on our 2005 V70 at 140,000 miles but I bought it with sludge under the cap.

It still kept driving on 4 cylinders and was such a great vehicle I paid for a new factory engine.

The P2's were by far our favorite Volvos we have owned and best memories.

Our P2's were the most trouble free Volvos we ever owned and more refined.

I also believe they were more solid look at how easily my P80 dented.

The P2's were solid and thicker in my opinion I couldn't dent a body panel or subframe that easily.

NO overheating issues ever or lifter knocking noise or sump o-rings failing and sucking in air either.

They also have better more modern crash protection in my opinion.

Brakes were the best Volvo OE pads and rotors for P2 were very durable.

We could get 70,000 miles out of Volvo rear rotors and pads.

We could get 50,000 miles out of Volvo front brakes with never any pulsation not once ever.

Our P2's were the best Volvos we ever owned.

This is based on first hand experience which you can't say is wrong because this all happened.

Anyway I respect your opinion but this is my first hand experience.

Take care

 

Whew this was long OP let me give you the cliff notes

- With the proper amount of user error you CAN dent the body or the subframe on a p80

- P2s are more reliable but after 140k miles you MIGHT need a brand new engine

- the person defending p2s no longer owns any p2s lol (honestly same tho)

Most of the other points not sure maybe ford did buy Volvo and do no cost cutting before leaving them for dead, it wouldn’t line up with any corporate takeover I’ve ever been involved in but maybe ford is just really cool ya know

And I think I already said p2s are awesome cars when they run properly, which in my experience is not as often or hassle free as the p80, which I can back up by saying I still own 3 of them lol

Tbh tho I don’t even know why I’m discussing this I love that all the ig volvo newbs prefer the post ford era, it means the true volbros don’t have to deal with their gentrification

Tldr Pre-99 Volvos are all trash!

 

Oh boy. So much conflict and disagreement in this one thread...

To add my two cents. I own both a 98 T5 (manual, FWD) and a 99R (automatic, AWD). So far in my ownership, they are not radically different in terms of maintenance needs (but granted, I haven't had to deal with any fuel pump or AWD issues yet). The electronic throttle and new ECU in the 99 are slight improvements over the 98, but again nothing earth shattering.

I will spare you all the details and stories, but if I were in the market for one again - I wouldn't shy away from either a 98 or a 99 car. They both have their positives and negatives.

 

We own 3 of each: three 1995 850 T-5R wagons (one is parts only, one is unmodified with high mileage, and one is manual swapped on coilovers with a Quaife LSD etc), a 2005 V70R auto (passion red w Gobi interior, with T5 engine swap) and two 2006 S60Rs (an auto parts car with a T5 swap and lots of performance bits and a manual keeper/driver).

We like the 850s better overall but the M66 S60R is awesome.

Once we finish sorting little issues arising from the V70R engine swap it will be for sale.

Most mechanical parts are not too hard to find (try FCP, IPD, Pelican Parts, AZ Auto Haus and even 1AAuto and Rock Auto). We tend to stick with FCP or IPD. For unobtainium trim and interior pieces a good parts car is the way to go.

 

I think that the 2005-2007 are the most refined of all of the R's. I have a 2004 and from
what I have seen, the 2005-7 are just a bit cleaner. I would urge you to hold out for a
6 speed. They are much more fun to drive.

First and foremost, before you buy the car, make sure that in your area there is a
competent shop who knows their way around Rs. If you can't find one, buy something
else.

Also, assuming that the work hasn't just been done, plan on doing a timing belt/
serpentine belt/water pump/front and rear cam seals/PCV service, oil pan
cleaning, lower control arms, and at least some of the engine/trans mounts.

If the car has a lot of miles on it. consider putting in new crank and possibly rod
bearings when the pan is off to improve low RPM oil pressure.

And, this all will set you back a few $K. If it's done correctly the first time (and
this is not a foregone conclusion - I am still trying to get the shop to do mine
properly) count yourself very lucky.

MAKE SURE that the radiator fan is working properly.

Resign yourself to inside tire wear on the back tires because the camber can't be
adjusted, and the aftermarket tweaks are questionable and $$ to implement.

Finally, budget 2x whatever you pay for the car to get it sorted and if that's all
it costs, count yourself lucky.

 

I think that the 2005-2007 are the most refined of all of the R's. I have a 2004 and from
what I have seen, the 2005-7 are just a bit cleaner. I would urge you to hold out for a
6 speed. They are much more fun to drive.

First and foremost, before you buy the car, make sure that in your area there is a
competent shop who knows their way around Rs. If you can't find one, buy something
else.

Also, assuming that the work hasn't just been done, plan on doing a timing belt/
serpentine belt/water pump/front and rear cam seals/PCV service, oil pan
cleaning, lower control arms, and at least some of the engine/trans mounts.

If the car has a lot of miles on it. consider putting in new crank and possibly rod
bearings when the pan is off to improve low RPM oil pressure.

And, this all will set you back a few $K. If it's done correctly the first time (and
this is not a foregone conclusion - I am still trying to get the shop to do mine
properly) count yourself very lucky.

MAKE SURE that the radiator fan is working properly.

Resign yourself to inside tire wear on the back tires because the camber can't be
adjusted, and the aftermarket tweaks are questionable and $$ to implement.

Finally, budget 2x whatever you pay for the car to get it sorted and if that's all
it costs, count yourself lucky.

vrover I’m sorry you’ve had a bad time with your R. Our experience confirms yours that it is hard to find good R mechanics, so we do most of the labor ourselves. For what it’s worth our 2006 M66 S60R has lowering springs and aftermarket rear camber adjustment bushings. Camber is good.

 

I bought my 2000 V70R in 2004 with about 20K miles. Now has 200K. Amazing car, throws your head back in the seat, at around 80 mph hunkers down and says ‘“I’m ready”… I’ve only had it to about 120. It ‘s suppose to do 137 mph. Not a car for your teenager! I am told only 500 sold in the US that year, the only year with dual exhaust. Had the valve body changed at 170K. I worked for a wholesale import parts distributor (IMC) and picked out the best tech to work on it. I have never had a problem getting parts. I wanted to replace in with a Swedish racing Green Polestar, (Jay Leno) my tech said no. Those parts problems to get and pricey. My car black on black. I will keep driving it like it was stolen until someone has to have it.

 

In further consideration of buying a first gen v70r, it's probably not the worst prospect, as long as you know you maybe engineering a lot of your own solutions.

 

Hi Wia. I'll weigh in on the V70R. I've been driving a 2005 V70R for 14 years now. It is, without question, the best car I've ever owned in 50+ years of driving. It is an automotive work of art. The engine is a masterpiece; the handling surprisingly capable (except for tight U turns); it is a superb road car, comfortable and solid. And it has been very reliable.

Mine is a 6 speed manual with a Stage 2 MTE engine tune and modifications to open airflow from intake to exhaust tips. It had about 30k when I bought, and it's close to 180k now, and I have NEVER had reason to complain or question the choice. If you stay within a safe maximum boost envelope, change the oil often, and maintain the car, these engines should be reliable for a very long time. (Mine uses maybe a quart of oil between 5k oil changes.)

A few major points to disclose, in fairness. First, these probably were not low maintenance cars when new, and they require more attention and TLC as they age (don't we all?). I was lucky to find a local Volvo mechanic who had opened his own shop; he has been my sole source mechanic for major maintenance and any repairs I didn't want to tackle myself, and the quality of his work doubtless contributed to my overall reliability assessment. Second, the two decades I spent hot-rodding a Saab SPG turbo helped me learn when to accept "great" as good enough, which helped me not over-boost the V70R. (Yeah, I eventually killed the SPG's turbo... 20 lbs boost can do that. I chose not to repeat that mistake here.) I concur with recommendations for a mild to moderate engine tune from a really good source, then not going for more boost beyond that point. Third, I know nothing about Volvo automatics; I've always preferred manual transmissions. Fourth, and finally, the 2005 V70R I have been driving is now up for sale. (There's an ad on SwedeSpeed now; search for "Aphrodite" if you're curious; price flexible.) Your initial post seemed to suggest that you would prefer an automatic, and I tried to add comments that would be valid for either transmission, but if you are comfortable driving a stick, the V70R manual tranny experience is very hard to top.

Whatever you choose, I hope you and your SO end up with something that always makes you smile, and never lets you down. Enjoy the journey.

 

Lots of talking here.

https://boulder.craigslist.org/cto/d/lyons-98-v70r/7757575497.html

 

I see around 4-5 V70R around my neck of the woods but hardly any T5's.

 

Hello,

The V70R came up often in our searches for fun cars and they are adorable! Decent power with a some potential for a bit more, automatics galore, practical AF, not TOO big like newer wagons. What's not to love? We've even considered having one imported from Japan if we stick to a 1999 model or older.

I differ from most of the other advise. I owned a 1998 V70R and absolutely loved it. It is fast but good handling, has a decent suspension, is wonderful in winter with good and usefull 4WD, and is safe overall, but without all the airbags of a modern car. I work on my own cars a lot and this one was not a nightmare at all. Parts not available? I don't agree about anything I needed in the many years I owned it and then it went to my son who drove it cross country to Detroit, and he still could get parts and work on it as needed.
What to look for? I would say condition and low mileage. Condition: Interior should not be terribly worn, though replacing front seats is doable with a modern version or set in better condition. Windshield: hopefully no pits from sandblasting over the years. Paint: this car had a really good, durable paint and look for rust spots in the wheel wells and behind the wheels.

Price: should really be cheap these days for that old a model. But if it drives well, runs smoothly, etc, it is not a bad choice.