Thanks for the write up, has been stickied.

 

Any idea how much the stock driveshaft weighs

 

Haven't a clue, ill find out for ya beginning next week when i have it back.

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Thank you ! Always helpfull because my AWD has a bad time

 

What are the symptoms of a bad CV joint or half shaft assy? I just developed a bad clunking noise when the steering wheel is moved side to side while parked. With my hand on the drive shafts on both sides of the car, I can feel lateral play that goes with the clunking like it is internal to the trans.

Any ideas?

 

What are the symptoms of a bad CV joint or half shaft assy? I just developed a bad clunking noise when the steering wheel is moved side to side while parked. With my hand on the drive shafts on both sides of the car, I can feel lateral play that goes with the clunking like it is internal to the trans.

Any ideas?

This CV is front to rear driveshaft CV, not axle's to wheels FYI. However, I will say some Lateral axle shaft play is normal to allow movement during compression/decompression of suspension. Bad axle CV would show up as clicking noise usually when turning the wheel to max lock in either direction while driving. I would first check the CV boots for damage or leaking it's pretty rare IMO to have a bad axle CV without a loss a grease or contamination of the joint ON STOCK suspension, If you have lowered your car be prepared to have this be a common issue. I may be wrong, I would suggest searching for someone who may have same issue as yourself or starting a new thread to get more responses to your issue. Best of luck

 

Very Nice photos & illustrations - of course they make it look like a sterile job - not so much when you actually have CV grease up to your elbows

Much cleaner than axle cv boot replacement though

 

Haven't had a chance to weight it, seems I don't own a scale... MY guess is around 35lbs... I promise to find out for you proper, at some point.

 

I was wondering because what if we can get a lighter weight one to shave some lbs off

 

I see where your going with this . My issue is custom aluminum would = $$$$$ and custom composite material would = $$$$$$$$$$$$$. I'm not sure if the mass reduction would be worth the money spent.

 

So do the joints you purchased work for both front and rear? My local Volvo dealer says it only works on the front and it's the rear that's bad on my driveshaft. So naturally they say I need a very expensive driveshaft

 

Very curious what the quote was ? I just replaced mine myself and bought a rebuilt one from Colorado drive shaft for $600. No idea how much I saved. After replacing this I wonder if just going with a junk yard part would be the best option in the long run.

 

I was quoted $1500CAD for a new shaft. I had looked at Tasca and list price over there is $1280USD. Junkyard part may have worked, but for how long until it needed rebuilding too.

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The quote for the dealer to replace my driveshaft was 1900 plus tax for the part. Ridiculous considering I'm a mechanic for the actual Volvo dealer for almost 11 years lol

 

Stickied was nice but all of the photobucket pics have disappeared. A
As I may be dealing with this soon, could the original poster re-upload the pics?
Thanks!
-MIJ

 

Has anyone done this? I find myself where i need to replace mine. i have terrible clunking when shifting gears and going over certain bumps and pot holes. After closer inspection, i can see my CV joint twist/turn when selecting gear, but the actual prop shaft doesnt move. That leads me to this.
How difficult is it to remove the prop shaft on the floor with regular jack and jack stands? do i need to drop exhaust to get it out?
Any tip and/or info is apreciated

 

Just a small bump up, but a quick question for the ones who have experience with this;

on my 2004 V70R I would like to preventative (no problems right now, would like to keep it that way at 240k km/170k miles) regrease both outer CV joints on the propshaft. Propshaft needs to be partially removed anyway as I will service haldex as well and the driveshaft is blocking removal of the haldex filter and pump. So 2 birds one stone I hope.

My question is, I bought Moly Lithium Lubricant, but if I remove the caps of both outer joints, do I need to have new seals ready, or do I reuse these? hard to see if these are some rubber re-usable pads, or I need to arrange new gaskets. In other words, are there any consumables I need to replace once the joint has been opened?

Once I have my drive shaft removed, I do not have a another car at my disposal, so would like to have all parts in advance.

Other side quesitons, I am not planning to remove the whole joint (only the caps), but what would be the best way to clean the joints out of old grease? I read preferably not brake cleaner, but would wd-40 do any harm?

As always, thanks!

 

Just a small bump up, but a quick question for the ones who have experience with this;

on my 2004 V70R I would like to preventative (no problems right now, would like to keep it that way at 240k km/170k miles) regrease both outer CV joints on the propshaft. Propshaft needs to be partially removed anyway as I will service haldex as well and the driveshaft is blocking removal of the haldex filter and pump. So 2 birds one stone I hope.

My question is, I bought Moly Lithium Lubricant, but if I remove the caps of both outer joints, do I need to have new seals ready, or do I reuse these? hard to see if these are some rubber re-usable pads, or I need to arrange new gaskets. In other words, are there any consumables I need to replace once the joint has been opened?

Once I have my drive shaft removed, I do not have a another car at my disposal, so would like to have all parts in advance.

Other side quesitons, I am not planning to remove the whole joint (only the caps), but what would be the best way to clean the joints out of old grease? I read preferably not brake cleaner, but would wd-40 do any harm?

As always, thanks!

Cv's need to be disassembled from the DS to clean for regreasing. No possible way to remove all the dried up, caked grease & do the job right if you don't dismantle & soak the components. Sure, you could shove fresh grease in the boot, it's not going to mean much. I put gasoline in a small bucket & sloosh the CV around to get the grease out, using a small hardbristle paint brush. Don't take the actual CV apart, unless you have clearly marked the orientation of the inner, cage, and outer hub.

 

Any recommendations on the driveshaft CV joint brand? I'm seeing a HUGE variation in prices - from less than $40 for aftermarket on Ebay to $330 for Volvo on FCP. It looks like it is available from ProParts Sweden, Febest, IPD amongst others. Obviously the OEM version would be best, but is it worth almost 10x as much?

 

On eBay . Unless you buy the OEM, most of the inbetween will be no better quality than these. I bought a pair. The ONLY issue is a deviation in the hub depth that was resolved with a 1/16th hardened washer.

 

I was looking at these... How do they compare with OEM in general fitment and dimensions?
When removing the drive shaft, my joint separated. The shaft and bearings came out, but the cup portion is rusted in place and I haven't been able to get it off.

No signs of wear or heat scoring, so I'm content with reusing the cup portion and simply rebuilding the CV joint around it. But I'm curious if any of these aftermarket options would mate up with the Volvo pieces, or if I need to cash out for OEM for a proper fitment.