Can only offer a few supportive words.

Had a 2005 Subaru Legacy GT. They designed that "STI-Light" engine with a banjo bolt in the turbo oil line. It had a fine mesh that mucked up and starved the turbo, grenading the engine.
Shopped around forms and found someone who pulled a stock shortblock at 37k to replace with a built engine. The engine rebuild shop had it on the shelf. I bought it and had them port/polish and put some Mahle 4032 pistons in it. Sourced a bunch of parts to cobble together a stage 2 and had it tuned. Cost me about 8500 when all said and done, but I got another 70k miles out of a "dead car" that I liked.

I'm trading my 2008 R320 awd diesel van tomorrow. It has 150k on the ticker with a rear main seal and head gasket leak. If I had the space, I would absolutely drop 10k to pull the engine and have every 14 year old hose and seal replaced to keep it as an excellent second car. 27MPG Diesel 7 seater that rides like a dream.

The prices they list look pretty steep, except the oil leaks depending on what they are. I had really good luck with a local Merlin's franchise, where they would charge me shop rate to swap parts that I furnished for being a long time customer. Brakes were dirt cheap. Air suspension: generic Arnot bags at $300 each, then even more generic Ebay bags at $150 each. $100 in labor to swap the pair.

 

That's an interesting perspective! I know the dealer prices are insane. I don't think I'm near a merlin's though. Any recommendations on online warehouses to get used engines?

 

Where did you get those prices? Figure out what's wrong with the engine first. No one in their right mind would even suggest a new engine for a 14 year old car that's not worth more than $5000 or so in good condition. Fix it, put a used engine in it, or drive it until it explodes. Once you get past that, you can think about the rest of the stuff. I recall I did the lower control arms for about $400. My 150K service, including 4 new shocks, was about $2K. Brake parts about $500 for all 4 wheels. Get a parking brake adjuster kit while you're at it.

 

Where did you get those prices? Figure out what's wrong with the engine first. No one in their right mind would een suggest a new engine for a 14 year old car that's not worth more than $5000 or so without the noise. Fix it, put a used engine in it, or drive it until it explodes. Once you get past that, you can think about the rest of the stuff. I recall I did the lower control arms for bout $400. My 150K service including 4 new shocks was less than $2K. Brake parts about $500 for all 4 wheels. Get a parking brake adjuster kit while you're at it.

That all makes sense. I'm going to run to the dealer tomorrow to get an idea of exactly what they're saying could be wrong with the engine and I'll probably tow it away. Unless of course, how long do you think I can get away with 1-2mm on brake pads, with very conservative braking?

 

If they suggested a $17K engine replacement, I don't think I would trust them to tell you anything. Find a good local independent shop that works on Volvos and drive it over there, The brakes will get really noisy before they fail, and you're replacing the disks anyhow, so you won't incur any additional cost.

 

The rattling MAY be solved with some of the maintenance you mentioned, I would think .... and never forget your heat shields!! 3.2s are pretty much bomb proof -- there are about a dozen at my high school, all seemingly hand-me-downs from the 'old-money' parents. They seem to go and go without much problem, if you maintain them. Ex-girlfriend just passed 200k on her XC70 with the same engine, and that poor car is properly CLAPPED.

150k service, brakes and some fluids and I would see how long it goes. Control arms seem wildly expensive but I really don't know what those cost on an XC90. Either way, it always helps to get a second opinion. Either way, good on you for trying to save a car that very clearly has life left in it!

 

Control arms seem wildly expensive but I really don't know what those cost on an XC90.

Definitely way more than mine cost to do. But I think the quotes from OP are from a dealer? I.e. Volvo parts which might explain the exhorbitance. I'd definitely find a good indy for a car of that age.

 

Thank you all for your great insights. Yes, these are all dealer quotes.

I was going to pay for the convenience, but paying to tow it to someone else will likely be well worth the cost.

Will take precaution on the brakes and see if an indy might be open to sanding down the rotors. I can get a full Pagid set for about $600 online. Will start shopping for quotes...

 

I can get a full Pagid set for about $600 online. Will start shopping for quotes...

You can get full Pagid and Pagid/Hella rotors at Rockauto for really good prices. You have to make sure you have the correct front brake size. If you have a 7-seater, then you have 336mm front brakes. If not most likely it's 316mm front brakes. I like to use Wagner Thermoquiet Ceramic pads because they have great friction (I note this in my front end rebuild thread), are ceramic for clean wheels, and are very affordable.

I sometimes buy brakes from FCP, but I know I'm not going to send the rotors back for the lifetime replacement guarantee because I don't want to deal with the hassle and expense of sending such heavy parts. I do look at Rockauto and other online places since I know the exact parts I want for brakes.

 

So some further research indicates we may be looking at the READ assembly failure. Any thoughts on this...?

 

What have you heard with the hood up and can you tell where the noise is coming from. For a higher mileage and low maintenance 3.2, first check the upper engine torque mount. It's on the passenger side connecting the engine to the body (specifically the strut tower). When the rubber wears out in the mount there's additional play and the metal torque rod mount can rub against the engine.
Is the noise more of a flutter, is it like a clank-clank, or is it more a vibrating metal noise?

Of course the pulley, water pump, engine oil, etc. should be done as well as brakes. If you did research, you would notice the sticky About the 3.2 thread higher up in this forum. It outlines a lot of what needs to be done, especially at your mileage. The suspension will need to be addressed at some point and you can start to search about what parts to use and getting these parts saves money. You can purchase a lot from FCP Euro and the parts come with a lifetime replacement guarantee. Suspension: ChitownV: my front end rebuild/upgrade using OEM &amp...

You knew this XC90 would need work. Knowing that, I am assuming you had a budget. What is it? Perhaps we can help you budget different repair stages. There are many threads and youtube videos on many many XC90 and 3.2 repairs so if you can change brakes, you can do a lot of the maintenance items.

 

What have you heard with the hood up and can you tell where the noise is coming from. For a higher mileage and low maintenance 3.2, first check the upper engine torque mount. It's on the passenger side connecting the engine to the body (specifically the strut tower). When the rubber wears out in the mount there's additional play and the metal torque rod mount can rub against the engine.
Is the noise more of a flutter, is it like a clank-clank, or is it more a vibrating metal noise?

You knew this XC90 would need work. Knowing that, I am assuming you had a budget. What is it? Perhaps we can help you budget different repair stages. There are many threads and youtube videos on many many XC90 and 3.2 repairs so if you can change brakes, you can do a lot of the maintenance items.

This is all very helpful. I knew it would need work so that's why I'm game. I think the hardest part is sifting through the "let's just randomly replace things" mentality the dealership seems to be taking. I get that they're running a business so I'm not mad at them, and I also don't want oil soaking my driveway depending on what I take apart, so I'm looking to find a good balance.

I'm going to speak with the volvo tech who did the diag tomorrow. I'll do my best to record and post.

 

Great write up and I understand your logic here. Will report back on noise...hoping it's the less expensive of the two!

 

As mentioned, it is probably the READ unit. The internal bearing fails and starts to make noise. This happens more on 2007-2008 XC90's. Car in neutral, if noise is louder at about 1500-1800 rpm, probably the READ unit bearing. The READ unit is the aluminum box sticking out with a pulley on each side in the 1st pic.

 

So the driver's side is the "rear" of the engine, so I'm guessing this shouldn't be too terrible to access.

Will a dealership typically do this or no (they're pushing just putting in a new engine)?

 

The engine is transversely mounted, or mounted sideways. Technically, the front of the engine is the passenger side and the rear is the driver’s side.

Again, see where the noise is coming from and the type of noise. Who knows the specific tech’s intention or even if you got a tech who knows these engines. You have to verify yourself the noise and where it’s coming from. Open the hood and listen.

 

I own a 2007 V50, and let me tell you, if you're going to own a Volvo this old, you'd better learn how to wrench on it quick. Parts alone cost enough for them, even sourcing them myself. I can't imagine how much labor would've cost for the work I've done in the 2 years I've owned it, along with parts markup. Plus I get to decide what brands get used and not let someone else decide that for me.

 

TRUTH!!! I have an '08 XC70 that honestly hasn't cost me that much to keep going all these years and 205K. I have a great shop who I let handle the most PITA items like when my (original) water pump blew last year, but I try and tackle most everything else myself. All in all, thanks to these forums and YouTube (love Volvosweden's channel), it really hasn't been too bad to work on. I've learned a lot.

The 3.2 is a pretty damn reliable engine, and I'd be shocked if it needed an all out engine replacement. And at $17K? WTF?! RUNNNN!!! I did all my brakes with the upgraded Powerstop kit from Rockauto. They sent the wrong rotors for the rear, but happily refunded the difference and I picked up some OEM ones locally that didn't cost that much. Maybe like $80 for the pair for the OEM ones. Either way, Cost me somewhere in the ballpark of $250 total and the job was really not even that bad, and that was my first time doing a brake job. Again, your quote of $1700 for those is also astronomical.

Those clowns are straight ripping you off. Don't despair. If you got the car for dirt cheap and are willing to monkey with it yourself, leaving the worst to a GOOD shop who will treat you fairly, you might still be in for a pretty good car. It's a great platform. Don't be scared. Just find someone better who won't rip you off. Still shaking my head in bewilderment at the quotes you got. Wow...

 

I own a 2007 V50, and let me tell you, if you're going to own a Volvo this old, you'd better learn how to wrench on it quick. Parts alone cost enough for them, even sourcing them myself. I can't imagine how much labor would've cost for the work I've done in the 2 years I've owned it, along with parts markup. Plus I get to decide what brands get used and not let someone else decide that for me.

 

OE, FCP Euro for your parts or even NAPA makes parts for these. I have a 2011 XC90. Find a good indy mechanic and let him give it a good once over. Take things a step at a time and make sure you get that engine looked at by your indy. I bet parts from the two companies I mentioned earlier would cut your costs drastically. STAY AWAY FROM THE STEALERSHIP!!!

 

STAY AWAY FROM THE STEALERSHIP!!!

And this too. Haha. Seriously. I have yet to be happy with mine. They even completely botched an oil change on mine once. Overfilling it by SEVERAL quarts. I made them redo it of course, but have done it myself ever since (which I should have been doing this whole time now that I know how easy it actually is). Mine always takes forever and they give completely asinine quotes for things they've totally misdiagnosed. They used to be a great shop. Had a whole fleet of great loaner cars, a pretty damn capable crew of long timer techs and service writers, and a small shop feel, but then they changed hands, remodeled the whole dealership, and they are just not the same.

 

Also, it's definitely the READ according to the dealer. I'm trying to upload the video of it, but I guess the forum doesn't allow MP4 or MOV. The clicking is definitely on the driver's side. He claimed there was rattling but I didn't really notice any (then again, I'm no expert in these matters).

 

If it is definitely the READ, get rid of it (your XC90). A click is different than a rattle and the READ rattles. Please open the hood and listen to clarify. You can upload to YouTube.

Don't do brakes. The 1st and only go/no-go item is the engine noise. Besides the lack of maintenance, perhaps this is why the XC90 was so cheap.

 

20220504_153419_1.mp4

1 file sent via WeTransfer, the simplest way to send your files around the world

we.tl

Uploaded to wetransfer.com

Any thoughts?

 

I listened to it and honestly couldn't tell if it sound ok or not. I've never heard what a bad read sounds like, but I DID learn a bit more about the intense rebuild, and apparently this guy specializes in doing just that job. Here's his website. It's pretty informative:

Home - Volvo - Range Rover - Jaguar READ Info

Updated 03/18/2021 If you have found your way to this site, I imagine you have either been told you have a bad Volvo, Range Rover, or Jaguar (also known as Ford) READ/R.E.A.D. unit, or you’re a mechanic or shop owner wondering what is involved in rebuilding a Volvo READ unit as I call them...

www.volvoread.com

Also, this is seriously good to know. Quoted from his site:

The first thing I tell anyone who thinks they have a bad R.E.A.D. unit is that 75% of the people I have been contacted by who think they have a bad READ unit, didn’t. People hear a bearing noise in the READ area, and assume it is a bad READ unit. The most common cause of noise in that area is the one-way clutch on the accessory side of the R.E.A.D. unit. I’ve also seen noisy idlers, water pumps, and A/C compressors diagnosed as failed READ units.
...
To determine if the READ has failed, or it’s another component, remove the drive belt. If the noise goes away, it is most likely not the READ unit that is making the noise. If the noise is still there, it is usually the READ unit, and it will need to be rebuilt, or replaced with a rebuilt one.

That job is no joke, but some more investigation is certainly warranted. I'd keep checking it out if I were you. You may luck out and it's not an impending READ failure after all.

 

Thanks! I did find his site, but must have missed the 75% stat.

They claimed the READ was giving off an internal fault code, but I've seen no computer readout to confirm (he also claimed it was "shaking" in there but if you've seen the clip and didn't notice anything then who really knows...I didn't notice shaking).

Indy should be getting back to me by end of week with some estimates on a rebuilt unit/used engine. Fingers crossed...

 

The video is a little difficult to hear what is going on and a cheap mechanics stethoscope could pinpoint where which noises are coming from. It could be the READ, but it could also be the pulley bearings or the A/C compressor clutch or more. A READ issue, depending on how far along the damage is, may have a little hollow metal sound while in the video I also hear rotational bearing noise from pulleys. I also hear injectors clicking (normal), some metallic noises which could be related to that upper oil leak (vacuum pump needs resealing, less than $80 in parts), some vacuum noises which are probably from the PCV ($175), and perhaps additional noise from the decoupler (part of the serpentine belt system).
You might need an independent shop to look at it and listen with a stethoscope.

Nothing stands out right now and it is obvious it wasn't maintained well, besides the oil leaking, the coolant is green. Volvo coolant is blue and another ok quick replacement is Zerex G05, amber color.

Here is a video of a READ issue and you can tell the hollow metallic noise is more distinctive. 3.2 READ noise

Is the A/C compressor off?
If you want to continue remember that you have to catch up on the maintenance that was due in the last 50k miles, at least. If you are not handy, purchasing a cheap high mileage XC90 with minimal to no maintenance isn't the wisest choice.

 

Is the A/C compressor off?
If you want to continue remember that you have to catch up on the maintenance that was due in the last 50k miles, at least. If you are not handy, purchasing a cheap high mileage XC90 with minimal to no maintenance isn't the wisest choice.

Understood! I do think a good indy diag will yield better insight (I had much higher hopes for the dealer's assessment, but Volvo tows for free so I figured, why not).

Given the used market these days, even if I put a few grand into it my rationale is: a '07-'11 XC90 from a used dealer (not the route I chose), with good maintenance records is running $10-12K. I would imagine even one of them would need 1-2K in work (maybe more), so if I get mine to 80% health and get 5-7 years out of it...I can hopefully ride out the chip shortage.

I can do the brakes & control arms myself, but hopefully the engine stuff won't be too pricey, even if outsourced. Knowing that the majority of the dealership's recommendations were preventative means nothing is dire, so I'll definitely see what a local mech has to say and take my time.

 

I hear more of a whine too, lol. Let's cross our fingers.

 

Ooh! I just remembered something from MY 3.2. Last year, I also had a bad rattle. Sounded like a box of marbles. Used a stethoscope and still had a tough time pinpointing. Looking around online, I was scared it was the READ too. Then the water pump blew. Had it towed to my shop. They replaced it. Good as new! The rattle was simply my water pump on the verge of giving up the ghost. Bullet dodged. FWIW, the water pump didn't even cost that much to let them do. Can't believe I forgot about that! You might get lucky too.

 

G48 (blue) coolant spec is the update to the G05 (amber). G64 (light green) coolant is what is used on modern Volvos. Based on the lack of maintenance on this XC90, I think a very very good guess is that the cheaper old generic green coolant was used. What's important is to get rid of the old cheap green coolant.

You can find the euro blue G48 spec from Zerex, Peak now has it, and even can use BMW's coolant.

 

G48 (blue) coolant spec is the update to the G05 (amber). G64 (light green) coolant is what is used on modern Volvos.

I see. Thanks for the clarification.

Based on the lack of maintenance on this XC90, I think a very very good guess is that the cheaper old generic green coolant was used. What's important is to get rid of the old cheap green coolant.

Oh, certainly. If his has the same results as mine, that coolant change is bound to happen VERY soon no matter what. Haha. Which actually would not be such a bad thing if it's just a water pump after all.

 

Yup about the water pump. The A/C compressor is also coated in oil which could have oil in the clutch mechanism. The vacuum pump definitely needs new o-rings.

 

If they're saying the READ generated an "internal fault" does that definitely mean it's it, or could one of the connected bearing/pulleys be causing a false positive?

 

The READ doesn't have a sensor so not sure which code they are referring to. If there is an engine code then the independent shop should be able to scan for it.

One can only guess what code they are referring to, such as camshaft sensor to misfire. If they did find one, it should have been on the repair order/diagnosis paperwork.

 

The READ doesn't have a sensor so not sure which code they are referring to. If there is an engine code then the independent shop should be able to scan for it.

One can only guess what code they are referring to, such as camshaft sensor to misfire. If they fid find one, it should have been on the repair order/diagnosis paperwork.

Yeah I didn't notice an electronic component based on diagrams I've seen. TBH, most of the explanations in the service report were vague ("speak with your SA" type stuff, with no real explanation).

Having it towed to the indy today, will report back once they dig in a bit more. Really thought the dealership would've been more thorough given the few hundred they've charged to analyze. I get why they're more expensive, which is why I thought they'd be more forthcoming with information.

 

Hi All,

New to the forum. I'm in a bit of a pickle and would like some advice.

I purchased a pretty beat up 2008 XC90 3.2 AWD for a dirt cheap (more on why that matters later). 145K on the clock.

~$800 in diagnoses, a fuel pressure sensor and a new battery revealed the following:

1) Complete brake job (rotors, pads, shoes...$1700) pads are apparently 1-2mm all around
2) Both front control arms ($1700)
3) 150K service (belts, tensioners, water pump and alternator coupler...$2700)
4) 2-3 oil leaks (~$500)
4) Oil change, other fluid flushes etc....
5) Then the big one....a "rattle" in the engine (they apparently won't do teardowns to find out what is actually causing an "internal fault," so they're quoting 17K for a new engine, p&l)...talk about throwing out the baby with the bath water...🙃

So a couple of interesting things...

1) When I asked if the car is "shot" they said, if you do the brakes, then it just becomes a matter of if/when the engine blows due to whatever is rattling, but it would definitely be "drive-able" until such time

2) I've reviewed a few rattling noises on these engines (on this forum) and it appears to be the very same pulleys/water pump that they're preparing to replace anyway.

but that's the catch...I wouldn't know unless I drop another 2-3K in repairs

3) Given the used market right now, I can rationalize spending a bit on this as I would imagine these can run north of 230K miles (which should, as my secondary car, get me about 6-8 years...hence why I mentioned not having paid much for it).

I'm thinking even if I bought one from a dealership, I'll still probably have a few $K in repairs (after spending probably 3-800 getting a mechanic to do PPIs finding the once I want).

My "wrench skills" are probably at their peak with a brake change (not to mention, I'm not sure I want to get an electronic torque wrench as this would be the only time I'd use it in probably the next 5 years).

So that's my sob story. Again any advice is appreciated (mainly, how you might go about determining the best course of action, and what seems dire, vs optional)?

P.S....oh and indy's are saying they'll come in slightly cheaper...yay for me...I guess?

Thanks!

I have had a 2005 xc90 for about five years. While usually understand what my mechanic is saying I have ZERO wrench skills. I just found a much cheaper mechanic. I've had My guy is a Volvo specialist but not the dealer. You might ask around before spending all of your good money.

 

There was a time about 20 years ago when I was really busy and not paying much attention to maintenance on our Astro van. When I finally got to it the pad material was gone and it had eaten all the way through one side of a rotor. New rotors and pads and it was like new again.