[Batdrain]

I’ve not searched for this nor can verify - I can say what I’ve seen on forums & my own experience (by actually reading it continuously) is around (typically mine below) 15mA. Obviously this varies by day and car / user habits like for example when I’m working on the car say cleaning interior, the interior lights etc may be on & next day (as it’s a 10 hour Average) will go up to 20-30mA but I know why and ignore.
Example of my car scanner screen - top left
shows current.
View attachment 221651

So my method has been taking my DMM and putting it in series on the negative side of the battery. Then observing the draw in mA and I see a draw of averagely 0603mA-0855mA. I assume that this equates to the Quiescent reading you sent me, less the 10 hours.? This is done after waiting for sleep mode and car is locked down and the key is more than far enough away. A new alternator was installed because I observed a small leakage in the diode and the RDAR was jumped with a Brace/loop. I only assume I did what seemed logical method to troubleshoot the problem. hopefully this was correct. So I turned it over to the dealership because i do not have a VIDA/DICE and this looked like a very intense problem within the RING network. This is the 4 battery that had the exact same draw issue.

 

[LozinOz]

So my method has been taking my DMM and putting it in series on the negative side of the battery. Then observing the draw in mA and I see a draw of averagely 0603mA-0855mA. I assume that this equates to the Quiescent reading you sent me, less the 10 hours.? This is done after waiting for sleep mode and car is locked down and the key is more than far enough away. A new alternator was installed because I observed a small leakage in the diode and the RDAR was jumped with a Brace/loop. I only assume I did what seemed logical method to troubleshoot the problem. hopefully this was correct. So I turned it over to the dealership because i do not have a VIDA/DICE and this looked like a very intense problem within the RING network. This is the 4 battery that had the exact same draw issue.

That approach I guess (can’t confirm) would give instantaneous reading not average - they obviously are different but regardless sounds like a high current draw. Have you tried pulling fuses (tedious but may help) one by one to see which if any causes that current draw to stop - may help narrow down..

 

[Batdrain]

That approach I guess (can’t confirm) would give instantaneous reading not average - they obviously are different but regardless sounds like a high current draw. Have you tried pulling fuses (tedious but may help) one by one to see which if any causes that current draw to stop - may help narrow down..

Very sorry, I did not know that I had not told you that I pulled EVERY FUSE and RELAY 1 by 1 except the 2 relays in the CEM ( forward of the glovebox). This was the VERY FIRST method I tried. NO SIGNIFICANT CHANGE and not an easy thing to do. Even the lower fuse bank (fuses) in the engine bay was pulled out and tested. I did a voltage drop as well for the fuses and a visual + OHM check on each fuse. The issue is the ignition start light corresponding with the amount of the draw. Ie.. light comes on and the draw is high, light dims down and the draw is low while in sleep mode. I was going to back probe the ignition (3/1) but getting to that is quite difficult. 3 of those 4 wires go to the CEM but the CEM has a lot (47 I believe) inputs and any 1 of them can be the issue of not going into a complete sleep mode.

 

[Batdrain]

Very sorry, I did not know that I had not told you that I pulled EVERY FUSE and RELAY 1 by 1 except the 2 relays in the CEM ( forward of the glovebox). This was the VERY FIRST method I tried. NO SIGNIFICANT CHANGE and not an easy thing to do. Even the lower fuse bank (fuses) in the engine bay was pulled out and tested. I did a voltage drop as well for the fuses and a visual + OHM check on each fuse. The issue is the ignition start light corresponding with the amount of the draw. Ie.. light comes on and the draw is high, light dims down and the draw is low while in sleep mode. I was going to back probe the ignition (3/1) but getting to that is quite difficult. 3 of those 4 wires go to the CEM but the CEM has a lot (47 I believe) inputs and any 1 of them can be the issue of not going into a complete sleep mode.

The very first time I saw a good drop was when I removed the RDAR from the system. MY reading was 0007mA. MY neighbor even saw it as he like to hang around me when working on cars. This is why I went for the BRACE/LOOP solution. But the next morning the draw was back to the usual 0855mA . That told me if I eliminate the entire RING network it is solves the problem.

 

[LozinOz]

I’m sadly out of ideas - need next level specialist with experience on these matters

 

[Batdrain]

I’m sadly out of ideas - need next level specialist with experience on these matters

Any ideas as to who is experienced in these matters I can talk with?

 

[hal9000f]

Any ideas ...?

Just a little help....

Most of the time my V70 D3 Quiescent current avg is only: -4 mA
I've never seen it above -10 mA, and that was maybe once or twice...

Not much equipment in the car, so it's really low. I think my other Volvo 855, has more than that.

Get yourself Vgate iCar2 OBD2 bluetooth dongle and https://www.carscanner.info/

Do not buy cheaper dongle than that one in the picture! Or even better, and go for a better one.

 

[Batdrain]

Just a little help....

Most of the time my V70 D3 Quiescent current avg is only: -4 mA
I've never seen it above -10 mA, and that was maybe once or twice...

Not much equipment in the car, so it's really low. I think my other Volvo 855, has more than that.

Get yourself Vgate iCar2 OBD2 bluetooth dongle and https://www.carscanner.info/

Do not buy cheaper dongle than that one in the picture! Or even better, and go for a better one.

View attachment 221670 View attachment 221671
View attachment 221672

Thanks I'll get the BLUE one. BTW I found this in a tech journal Read off the standby current consumption. The total standby current should be less 25 mA.

 

[Peter1234]

As hal9000f suggested, get a iCar Vgate adapter - cheap and reliable.

Just don't buy the Bluedriver (99 USD) dongle - clever marketing, but not worth more than 15 USD.

 

[Batdrain]

As hal9000f suggested, get a iCar Vgate adapter - cheap and reliable.

Just don't buy the Bluedriver (99 USD) dongle - clever marketing, but not worth more than 15 USD.

is the orange one more suitable?

 

[hal9000f]

is the orange one more suitable?

I don't know the diff between colours.
But, this one on the pic, works flawlessly on both cars with diff software.
Unlike some cheaper dongles I have tried...

 

[LozinOz]

Any ideas as to who is experienced in these matters I can talk with?

Sorry missed this message & unfortunately no - I’m in a different country to you 😆

 

[Batdrain]

Sorry missed this message & unfortunately no - I’m in a different country to you 😆

thanks.

 

[Batdrain]

How to read Volvo internal codes in the Quality Bulletin:

Volvo S60 II (134), S80 II (124), V60 I (155), V70 III (135), XC70 II (136), XC60I (156)

The XC60 is 156, production week: 201320-201336, VIN numbers: 0500000-0532535
There might be newer TSBs, so maybe just update to the latest CEM software at the dealer.

Lights and flasher trick works only in ignition II, when you press start for 4-5 seconds (all icons must light up on the tacho). But some model years will not blink the icon.

As for door locks - go around the car and check if all doors always close and open properly.

If VIDA/DICE is not available, vLinker Vgate MC+ bluetooth adapter (circa $40) will read error codes in more internal modules than standard elm327 adapters (it has access to MS/CAN network: door modules, SRS, aircon, DIM, trailer module, etc.). It will tell if BMS was properly reset and show the quiescent average measured by the car:

voltage, charging on 20123 XC70

voltage, charging on 2013 XC70 I have a '13 XC70 I've owned now for about two months. From the beginning it would show a low battery warning if I sat in the car for a minute with the radio on after turning the engine off. So I replaced the battery, and reset the battery manager with VIDA/DICE...

www.swedespeed.com

Peter, the dealer had the car for 20 days and found nothing except to say "ICM noticed to be awake at 4.6 mV". He wanted to do a ICM upgrade and I said no because he could not tell me if one of the other modules was sending the ICM that 4.6mV. Your thoughts.

 

[LozinOz]

Peter, the dealer had the car for 20 days and found nothing except to say "ICM noticed to be awake at 4.6 mV". He wanted to do a ICM upgrade and I said no because he could not tell me if one of the other modules was sending the ICM that 4.6mV. Your thoughts.

So what does ‘found nothing’ mean regarding stated car problem (draining battery) - that it’s not draining battery or that it is draining battery but they can’t find the cause?

 

[Batdrain]

So what does ‘found nothing’ mean regarding stated car problem (draining battery) - that it’s not draining battery or that it is draining battery but they can’t find the cause?

The dealer never successfully after 20 days discovered the cause of the drainage, so rather then just keep charging me for nothing, I took the car back. They claim they found something .....I asked if they were sure that the upgrade (they suggested) #31268488 $264 to the ICM would fix it. I got no answer. I authorized the upgrade and after 2 days they said they are having difficulties installing the upgrade. How did I know that another module was not sending the 4.6mV signal TO the ICM in sleep mode? The dealers paperwork pretty much indicated that they were not sure. They had the car first sit for 4 day to tell me the brand new battery was now at 3.25VDC. Hell I figured that the battery was draining down in 20 minutes using a DMM. From looking at the MORE RING diagram, it would appear that the draining is coming FROM a module going TO the ICM. After all that time, I lost complete confidence in them. Why not try the software upgrade #31268488, find out if that solved the problem then charge me for the upgrade? No, tell me I need to buy the software and hope it fixed the problem!!! They are not very professional and were just stalling for more money in my opinion. So I am back to square 1 again.

 

[Batdrain]

No Car Scanner cannot reset BMS, it’s essentially a reader, although it can reset fault codes and a few car specific program functions - but not BMS reset. I posted a YouTube link earlier of how to do a BMS reset without Vida (there appear to be a number of suggested ways to do this if you search for them online) the link I posted works for my car and many others. Trouble is (I think in your case) without a monitoring system - you can’t tell if the BMS has been reset - Car Scanner is but one of many ways to see that info.. I don’t think resetting BMS is going to fix your problem but thats Just an opinion.

I just received 12/21 my DICE with a DISC. I still have to get my old laptop setup. I have win7 Ultimate on it and need to get WIN 7 professional and IE9 installed and get a 20-30 amp power supply. Once I get all of these conditions met, who can help me start setting all this stuff up? It is my understanding that getting the software set up properly is quite a task.

 

[hal9000f]

I just received 12/21 my DICE with a DISC.

Where did you get your DICE package from?
What's on the Disc? Which VIDA version?
Did you receive any Install HowTo in the package?

 

[Batdrain]

Where did you get your DICE package from?
What's on the Disc? Which VIDA version?
Did you receive any Install HowTo in the package?

CLONE, Have not looked at the disc yet, no install instructions

 

[LozinOz]

CLONE, Have not looked at the disc yet, no install instructions

Vida its not difficult (well for me it wasn't but I am technical i guess) suggest follow the guides
FYI you don't need Win 7 (and its no longer supported), Windows 10 is fine - you want VIDA 2014D (nothing later!)

suggest a few sites to get you started..

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Installing Volvo VIDA 2014D on Windows 10 Guide. WHAT IS THIS? A guide to install Volvo VIDA 2014D (original Volvo DVD or an ISO-file of it) on Windows 10 Pro x64, especially on a system where VIDA has previously failed to install or a previous version of VIDA has been installed and then...

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