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Discussion starter · #21 ·
You'll need anaerobic sealant for the camshaft covers. Do not use common RTV. Either use the genuine stuff or Loctite 510 / 518 or 518.
I was planning on using the Permatex anerobic gasket maker. I've heard this is actually REALLY good stuff for this particular job:
But definitely 10-4 on NOT using common RTV for this job. Fine for transmission pans and stuff I believe, but haven't heard of it for this one.

Another thing, besides the crank/camshaft locking tool. You'll also need the cam cover tool clamping tool:
[PIC]
They make the job waay more easier. You can get away without them though, by lowering the cover with the 30 something 10mm bolts. I've done it that way and it's a PITA.
I was wondering about that doohickey!!! It comes with those nicer kits I was talking about, so you have pushed me over the edge to go that route. Sounds way easier! Thanks for explaining what those even are. Haha. I'm SO clueless about this job. The more I learn though, the more I understand why it costs so much for a shop to do... and also why several shops have straight told me they didn't want the job. 😅
 
I used the cheap ebay cam/crank locking tool kit, and those cam cover press tools came with it. I had no issues with this kit so far. I've used it three times. I did cam seals on my S40, took out the cam sprockets of a spare head and assembled the cylinder head of my C70.

EDIT: Permatex 51813 is apparently similar to loctite 518, that should work fine.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
I used a small foam white roller from homedepot to put the anaerobic sealer on. It puts it on very evenly. I bought the bag of 5 and I have used them all up. Means I have done at least 5 jobs. It makes this job a lot easier. Glück!
5 of them?! Wow! I'm guessing you're getting pretty quick at doing these jobs by now. About how many hours would you say it takes you now that you're likely pretty proficient with it? I know it's going to take me like a month, but I may have another one in the queue after this one. Lol
 
No real need for that one. I've done it several times without it. You can remove the lower plastic shield of the crank pulley and slide the belt through there. And when I had to remove the harmonic balancer, I used a 1/2" battery powered impact wrench. Nut came out easily.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
No real need for that one. I've done it several times without it. You can remove the lower plastic shield of the crank pulley and slide the belt through there. And when I had to remove the harmonic balancer, I used a 1/2" battery powered impact wrench. Nut came out easily.
I've never used a crank holder for that.
Sweet. Thanks, guys. Out of stock anyway, BUT I just want to make sure I don't get caught without some special tool while I'm deep into this thing at 2 AM in a hot garage. I know there's going to be frustrations along the way, so hoping to minimize them as much as possible.
 
Rock on. Hopefully I'll be good with my impact too. As long as it fits in there I guess. Haha. It's a beast. I guess if not, will be JUST the excuse I've been needing to pick up a stubby.
Woa woah take it easy buddy!!!. What you have? Something like this Ingersoll Rand IR599A1??

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If you're curious, It's a 3.5" drive, weighs 599 lbs, is capable of 80,000 ft-lbs and costs $80k. Yeah, $1 per ft-lb. (Link here)

Now jokes aside, there will be a lot of space once you get there, and harmonic balancer nut torque spec is 180Nm or ~133 ft-lbs. Any "mid range" impact should do the trick, or if it's manual transmission, put it in gear, have somebody press the brake pedal and use a 2 ft breaker bar.

In my case, I used a DeWalt DCF894 1/2" drive impact wrench and it worked with no problems. Supposedly it makes "350 ft lbs" breakaway torque. and it was more than up to the task for this.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Woa woah take it easy buddy!!!. What you have? Something like this Ingersoll Rand IR599A1??
Wow! Now THAT'S an impact! Holy moly! Nahhhh.... I have a Milwaukee 1/2" cordless impact. Has 1400 lbs of loosening torque, 1000 lbs of tightening. Been a fantastic tool! Only problem is it's often too large to squeeze in to tighter areas. Was a GODSEND for my stubborn brake caliper bolts.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Ordered my parts and tools today! Should arrive next week in time for me to get cracking next weekend. My main confusion was the camshaft seals. I ordered a couple that the description said "timing side - intake & exhaust."

Used the Volvo parts website to identify seals and now I'm even more confused. Do need one (two?) of these guys too? They look pretty different from each other, so I'm assuming they're for different locations. Haven't ordered this one yet, but can grab it from my dealer if needed for around the same price, so I held off. What sayeth ye?
 
Wow! Now THAT'S an impact! Holy moly! Nahhhh.... I have a Milwaukee 1/2" cordless impact. Has 1400 lbs of loosening torque, 1000 lbs of tightening. Been a fantastic tool! Only problem is it's often too large to squeeze in to tighter areas. Was a GODSEND for my stubborn brake caliper bolts.
I "think" your milwaukee impact should have no problems with this. and with the wheel out, there will be more than enough space for it:

This is the only picture I have of where the crank pulley goes.

Image
 
Ordered my parts and tools today! Should arrive next week in time for me to get cracking next weekend. My main confusion was the camshaft seals. I ordered a couple that the description said "timing side - intake & exhaust."

Used the Volvo parts website to identify seals and now I'm even more confused. Do need one (two?) of these guys too? They look pretty different from each other, so I'm assuming they're for different locations. Haven't ordered this one yet, but can grab it from my dealer if needed for around the same price, so I held off. What sayeth ye?
The corteco 9458309 seal is what you need, two of them actually. These are the larger seals for the VVT hubs. If you had a 2.4i then you would have to order one of each you listed, because it only has VVT on the intake cam, the exaust cam uses the same seal as earlier cars without VVT (like P80 platform cars). With the RNC T5, the cam seals are the same for intake and exaust. And it only needs seal from the timing belt side. The transmission side doesn't have seals anymore like older models. They did away with that and just let the cam plug hold the oil in place.
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
The corteco 9458309 seal is what you need, two of them actually. These are the larger seals for the VVT hubs. If you had a 2.4i then you would have to order one of each you listed, because it only has VVT on the intake cam, the exaust cam uses the same seal as earlier cars without VVT (like P80 platform cars). With the RNC T5, the cam seals are the same for intake and exaust. And it only needs seal from the timing belt side. The transmission side doesn't have seals anymore like older models. They did away with that and just let the cam plug hold the oil in place.
Thank you SO much for this clarification. Seems like I got just what I needed then! I also ordered one of these little seal installation tools to go with it. Since it's the same on both sides, hopefully I ordered the right one!
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
I'm keeping track of all the parts I ordered (it's a lot), and when I'm done with the job I'll share a comprehensive list of what I needed and what I didn't. Skipping the tensioners and stuff for now since step 1 is mainly taking everything apart and inspecting everything. If/when the block and head are good to go, then I'll grab whatever else I need. Belts, tensioners, idler pulleys, etc. This is job 1 of 2 sitting in my driveway, so this first car is really just to get my feet wet on this whole idea. I believe the damage on Car #2 (my new broken S60) is going to be much more extensive. Hopefully gonna get good at finding my way around these T5s.
 
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