[Tech]

I'd suggest having new screws for the cam position sensor reluctor wheels. They are often difficult to remove and may need to be drilled.

 

[Tech]

That's them.

 

[Tech]

If they strip (which is easy because the torx is pretty shallow), I've had luck just drilling out the head of the screw. Once the head is gone, it releases the tension holding the reluctor wheel on and you can slide it off and then the threaded portion of the screw comes out very easily.

 

[Tech]

Yeah I've had my fair share of those engines apart.

 

[Tech]

I've never used a crank holder for that.

 

[Tech]

I always remove the crank pulley to do the belt but my impact has never had a problem with the nut.

 

[Tech]

This may seem like a dumb question, but what about putting the nut back on?

Used the same impact.

 

[Tech]

You don't pull the intake manifold for the PCV, just the air box. Really up to you whether to do it now or not. I'd at least do the breather hose to the top of the head if it hasn't been done- they harden up.

I would do the thermostat assembly and radiator hoses as well. At least the hose that commonly cracks.

 

[Tech]

You don't really need all the coolant hoses (unless you really like the look of those blue ones and want them all to match). Also note, that kit is for manual transmission. Not sure if your car is manual.

And the breather hose that usually hardens is 8670008.

 

[Tech]

I never used that style keeper tool. I used a normal valve spring compressor that requires the head be off. And most of the time, I just sent the head off to the machine shop and they took care of all that.

 

[Tech]

Don't think I've ever seen a turbo return line clog up. Clean it out and put it back with a new gasket and o-ring and you'll be good

 

[Tech]

Nope. Might have some build up but I've never had to replace one.