[ahzazou]

What would be the reason of late boost , usually this turbo builds boost at 2000 RPM.

After Swapping the engine the car is boosting too late at 5000 RPM....


Old engine has lower compression
new engine has higher compression .....

same intake manifold both engines
same exhaust manifold both engines ....

same turbo is used in both engines


any good explanation is really appreciated

 

[DrBrutal]

Your wastegate is stuck open

 

[prienzo]

Was the information we gave you in the other thread not good enough?

Let's recap:
1. Check your wastegate setting
2. You are running an engine in the car that the software is not supposed to control. This is not good and you should seriously seek advice from a tuning company, such as MTE/IPD, RICA, ARD.

 

[ahzazou]

Your wastegate is stuck open

how can i solve this problem as the car is tooooooo slow !!!!1

 

[ahzazou]

Was the information we gave you in the other thread not good enough?

Let's recap:
1. Check your wastegate setting
2. You are running an engine in the car that the software is not supposed to control. This is not good and you should seriously seek advice from a tuning company, such as MTE/IPD, RICA, ARD.

Actually i had B5254T4 on my R car .... because of leakage in raditor i lost that engine

then i bought B5254T2 engine instead of that and attached my old R injectors ,intake manifold ,exaughst manifold , even my R turbo ......

after this modification i got this LATE BOOST... maybe something went wrong when i moved the turbo from old setup to new setup ??

 

[prienzo]

how can i solve this problem as the car is tooooooo slow !!!!1

We understand your frustration, but you really need to follow advice already given to you. Let's start with checking your wastegate.

1. Disconnect yellow line from TCV
2. Connect some sort of pump to line that can accurately measure pressure
3. Apply pressure slowly and see when the actuator arm begins to move. This should happen between 4-7 psi and will give you a rough idea of the setting.
4. If the setting is off, it has to be adjusted. Sorry, but you'll have to search how to do this.

If none of this makes sense, consult a mechanic before you destroy another engine.

 

[prienzo]

Actually i had B5254T4 on my R car .... because of leakage in raditor i lost that engine

then i bought B5254T2 engine instead of that and attached my old R injectors ,intake manifold ,exaughst manifold , even my R turbo ......

after this modification i got this LATE BOOST... maybe something went wrong when i moved the turbo from old setup to new setup ??

Yes, we know you swapped everything over, but it's a different engine with different compression, which is kind of a big deal. Even if it runs, it will probably never run with full efficiency unless the software is changed.

 

[ahzazou]

We understand your frustration, but you really need to follow advice already given to you. Let's start with checking your wastegate.

1. Disconnect yellow line from TCV
2. Connect some sort of pump to line that can accurately measure pressure
3. Apply pressure slowly and see when the actuator arm begins to move. This should happen between 4-7 psi and will give you a rough idea of the setting.
4. If the setting is off, it has to be adjusted. Sorry, but you'll have to search how to do this.

If none of this makes sense, consult a mechanic before you destroy another engine.

Actually . I will do this , i am just to confused as i love this car i take care of it very well till . I never imagined this would happen to my dream car

 

[prienzo]

Actually . I will do this , i am just to confused as i love this car i take care of it very well till . I never imagined this would happen to my dream car

Completely understand. I too lost an engine. Just be careful about what you are doing and you'll be ok

 

[KillerB]

Old engine has lower compression
new engine has higher compression

Fresh engines have about 200lbs per cylinder
Broken in engines fairly new have 180-200
Worn engines have 160-180 per cylinder
anything below 140 is shot and on the way out... so that what you're seeing on the compression.

What is the is the engine... 2.3,2.4 or 2.5?

What is the compression ratio?

Running for my red eye flight from Honolulu to Las Vegas....

 

[DrBrutal]

Yes, we know you swapped everything over, but it's a different engine with different compression, which is kind of a big deal. Even if it runs, it will probably never run with full efficiency unless the software is changed.

The ECU doesn't know what the compression is, however there's a possibility it may retard timing since there will be more detonation... Maybe it's getting confused somehow. I doubt it though. This is pure speculation.....

People raise compression on engines all the time, to make power increases.

 

[silverbullitt850]

BUT NOT WITHOUT TUNING.

The only way this will work as you intend is with custom software to allow the ecu to properly control your engine.

What you've done is absolutely no different than putting an audi 5 cylinder turbo into your car with the s60r stock ecu. THERE'S NO REASON YOU SHOULD EXPECT IT TO RUN, LET ALONE RUN WELL.

Maybe MAYBE if you put the stock ecu from a 5254T2 the engine you installed it might run ok, but even then probably not.

STOP POSTING ABOUT THIS UNTIL YOU GET IT TUNED.

 

[KillerB]

I was looking at the T2 engine today vs the T4 engine because I'm not familiar with the T2. I didn't realize you raised the compression ratio... I thought you raised the compression pound readings on a fresh engine. Changing the ratio changes everything with trouble shooting.

You should inspect the catalytic convertor ASAP.

Running a 9.0:1 vs 8.5:1 compression isn't going to need a tune right out of the gate. The car will run fine with a 9.0:1. In fact, you're not suppose to tune that for a few thousand miles, until it's broken in.

 

[silverbullitt850]

Even with the non-VVT issues and totally different fuel maps? I would think that's enough to cause the problem. Why do you think it's the cat?

 

[KillerB]

Even with the non-VVT issues

The B5254(T2), B5254(T2-R (or B5254T4)), B5254(T3), B5254(T7) are all VVT engines. There shouldn't be an issue there. He could probably reuse the old camshafts and crankshaft if he wanted to.

totally different fuel maps?

There shouldn't be much of a difference of fuel maps either. Slightly, yes.

I run a 9.0:1 compression and it ran fine. I had the exhaust valves fail, but we think that was contributed to re-using the old sodium valves. We noticed in the Volvo Engine documents where it mentioned not to re-use the old valves. The ceramic shop sanded down the edges to clean off the ceramic so that it wouldn't cause sealing issues during lapping... and that added to the problem. Everything else looked fine and we are running again as of this week with the 9.0:1 compression. But overall, a slight compression ratio gain should be ok while breaking in a new engine. If he went with something higher than 9.0:1, yes, he would need to remap it right out of the gate.

The higher compression will actual boost faster, not later, since it's a hotter compression and also the additional power before the turbo kicks in.

I'm also assuming all 5 cylinder engines fire off in the same order... per a harmonic design.

Why do you think it's the cat?

I've seen in a couple cars where the EGT was raised and it destroyed the CAT. The symptoms were later spooling because the clog prevented flow of the air in the turbo to spool. He may also have had a CAT problems before hand when he ran out of radiator fluid.

Another thing to consider is that engine shops and car manufactures will typically throw in a higher phosphate oil to help the break in process. I used royal purple myself and that has a special formulated phosphate blend. One of the things phosphate does is destroy the CAT. If he's already experiencing a symptom that may point to the CAT, he may have just increased a chance of destroying the turbo and exhaust valves right out of the gate. To check, you just have to remove the 2 bolts on the exhaust / DP connecting point and peak in.

Also, I would believe the CEL would come on for an open wastegate problem because the MAF and Throttle position would be off from what the Boost Sensor shows... just a guess though. I believe a boost leak would show a CEL too.

 

[ions]

Maybe he should try running the car with no downpipe and see if his boost builds faster?

 

[silverbullitt850]

The B5254(T2), B5254(T2-R (or B5254T4)), B5254(T3), B5254(T7) are all VVT engines. There shouldn't be an issue there. He could probably reuse the old camshafts and crankshaft if he wanted to.

There shouldn't be much of a difference of fuel maps either. Slightly, yes.

I run a 9.0:1 compression and it ran fine. I had the exhaust valves fail, but we think that was contributed to re-using the old sodium valves. We noticed in the Volvo Engine documents where it mentioned not to re-use the old valves. The ceramic shop sanded down the edges to clean off the ceramic so that it wouldn't cause sealing issues during lapping... and that added to the problem. Everything else looked fine and we are running again as of this week with the 9.0:1 compression. But overall, a slight compression ratio gain should be ok while breaking in a new engine. If he went with something higher than 9.0:1, yes, he would need to remap it right out of the gate.

The higher compression will actual boost faster, not later, since it's a hotter compression and also the additional power before the turbo kicks in.

I'm also assuming all 5 cylinder engines fire off in the same order... per a harmonic design.

I've seen in a couple cars where the EGT was raised and it destroyed the CAT. The symptoms were later spooling because the clog prevented flow of the air in the turbo to spool. He may also have had a CAT problems before hand when he ran out of radiator fluid.

Another thing to consider is that engine shops and car manufactures will typically throw in a higher phosphate oil to help the break in process. I used royal purple myself and that has a special formulated phosphate blend. One of the things phosphate does is destroy the CAT. If he's already experiencing a symptom that may point to the CAT, he may have just increased a chance of destroying the turbo and exhaust valves right out of the gate. To check, you just have to remove the 2 bolts on the exhaust / DP connecting point and peak in.

Also, I would believe the CEL would come on for an open wastegate problem because the MAF and Throttle position would be off from what the Boost Sensor shows... just a guess though. I believe a boost leak would show a CEL too.

Thanks for explaining that, man. It's definitely not what I would have thought so I appreciate the education.

 

[djkronik57]

Also, I would believe the CEL would come on for an open wastegate problem because the MAF and Throttle position would be off from what the Boost Sensor shows... just a guess though. I believe a boost leak would show a CEL too.

I don't think this is the case. My wastegate was stuck open (due to the wastegate arm disconnecting) and I got no CEL, just a very slow car with no boost and a noticeably louder exhaust note.

 

[KillerB]

I knew I had a photo of a clogged CAT that caused turbo problems on an S60R... here you go:

I got a new ceramic high flow CAT and I think Adam that comes into Zen with an amazing set up, has a CAT-less set up. Side by side comparison one day showed that Adam's car was like 4 times louder. I know it would get a ticket just with light throttle. I don't know if I'd go CAT-less unless it was going to be a track car. Harder to sell if you can only put in a market where the state doesn't require a CAT.

I don't think this is the case. My wastegate was stuck open (due to the wastegate arm disconnecting) and I got no CEL, just a very slow car with no boost and a noticeably louder exhaust note.

good to know. makes a little sense.

 

[prienzo]

The bolts holding my wastegate down both managed to back themselves out, which left my wastegate open. Car only built around 4 psi of boost and very late. No CEL here either.