Volvo coolant is actually pretty old school. I'd venture to say most of us just run the factory stuff. Only about $15 at the discount places. Pentosin is a big OEM supplier. you can check out most of the specs here.

 

Any word thoug on Zerex g0-5, I would like to use it since the dealer where I bought the car gave me 3 gallons of the stuff for free.
but thanks for the link though.

 

Use it on something else and get the proper Volvo fluid which is lime popsicle green, if for no other reason than it looks factory. I just flushed and changed it on my C30 and wouldn't try to save a few bucks on something that lasts 100,000 miles.

 

Technically it doesn't meet the Volvo spec. as it contains nitrates for one.

Admittedly, I do find the whole antifreeze deal to be hair splitting though. Why would one car makers anti freeze not work in another. Different aluminum? I believe it's all based on (once again) trying to reach that "lifetime" fill. As you have pointed out, mixing of certain types can be harmful. Do not mix anti freeze types! Really shouldn't have any issue after a good flush.

Why All the Different Coolant Formulations?

In the early 1980's Ford was working with antifreeze manufacturers to come up with a formulation to meet global needs. European countries had very hard water and since water is 50% of the antifreeze mix, water quality dramatically affects the overall mix. As European manufacturers were abandoning phosphate-based technology because phosphates tend to form scale, Japanese manufacturers were moving away from silicates, which tend to destroy water pump seals.
The first alternate coolants were hybrids combining carboxyl and silicate technologies. Ford started using them after extensive durability testing (more than 40 million fleet test miles on every vehicle platform that Ford had) in the early 1980s. At about the same time, Mercedes and VW were also using hybrid formulations.
In addition to better corrosion inhibitors for the global market, other issues precipitated formula change. Toxicity and environmental concerns are behind the use of PG rather than EG, while the promise of longer-lasting engine protection and less maintenance spur development of the newest formulations, such as Nissan's blue coolant, which is designed to last ten years or 135,000 miles.

 

I too find it hair-splitting as I noticed my Antifreeze is somewhat orange-colored unlike the blue or green like every Volvo member has stated, but if I'm not mistaken this originally came off the assembly line! My car is a 2009 and I purchased it in 2013 with only 36,600 miles. Certainly I didn't think the fluid was changed that soon. I'm now at 56,800, doesn't look too bad. Should I just leave it?

 

No, change it out. Even with the modern formulas's 5 years or 50,000 is about the limit.

 

Never put much thought to antifreeze coolant. Over 11 yrs of ownership. Soon 70k miles. No coolant issues ever. That all said I've never replaced it until recently when a coolant flush was done by Volvo dealership for an other reason. All I did all those years is top it off with who knows what brand...

 

Reason I'm getting all hyped up is that I recently replaced my coolant reservoir. It was a simple swap and I lost about a cup worth of liquid but the coolant still looks good. I was researching to see whether I should keep some spare just in case until I read about all the different types, or what not. What I don't understand here is why would Volvo put this (orange stuff) on our cars if it is so bad??? Or is it not as bad as what it seems? I've never changed antifreeze on my others cars too, some are more than 170K. Maybe I should from now on?

 

^^Edit: I should state that I did change some after 150K

 

Mine was redone by the dealership at 118k when I got the new engine in it. As far as I know Zerex G-05 is HOAT coolant, because I used it in my Diesel. So realistically, the practical answer about different kinds of aluminum is relevant.

Personally, I plan on switching to Evans waterless when my radiator goes. along with a new radiator and silicone hoses from iPD and never have to worry about it again.

 

Mine was redone by the dealership at 118k when I got the new engine in it. As far as I know Zerex G-05 is HOAT coolant, because I used it in my Diesel. So realistically, the practical answer about different kinds of aluminum is relevant.

What does HOAT mean, and is it technically not the right type of coolant for our cars?

 

Maybe if the additives have been depleted.

 

We'll run through this again... Specs for most all the different types can be found HERE.

Some General Facts about Antifreeze

Before we get into making sure you have the right antifreeze in your system, let's take a look at some general information about antifreeze.
Automotive antifreeze has traditionally been made with ethylene glycol and Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT) corrosion inhibitors since 1926.
American vehicles have traditionally been designed to use antifreeze with silicates and phosphates as corrosion inhibitors.
European vehicles have traditionally used antifreeze that does not use phosphates.
Japanese vehicles have traditionally used antifreeze that does not use silicates.
Newer corrosion inhibitor technology includes Organic Acid Technology (OAT) and Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT). Both may be referred to as "extended life" antifreeze and were introduced in the 1990′s.
IAT antifreeze has a 2 year or 30,000 mile service life, where OAT and HOAT have a 5 year or 150,000 mile service life.
OAT based antifreeze is not compatible with IAT antifreeze; although, some HOAT formulas claim compatibility with certain OAT formulas or IAT formulas.
OAT and HOAT antifreeze is designed for use in aluminum radiators and components.
Antifreeze is dyed to whatever color the manufacturer chooses and may help to distinguish the type of antifreeze (IAT, OAT or HOAT) or may be used to market variations of antifreeze formulas within a brand.
How Do I Know Which Antifreeze is Right for My Vehicle?
Given that there is now a wide variety of antifreeze available, it is easy to get confused about which one is correct for your vehicle. Here are are a few questions to ask yourself before buying antifreeze.

Does my vehicle have antique parts like a Copper/Brass radiator? If you do, then the only antifreeze you should use is the traditional, IAT based formula. The new OAT formulas do not have the corrosion inhibitors that will protect copper/brass components since they were designed for modern aluminum components.
What does my vehicle's manufacturer recommend? Check the manual or call the dealership and make sure. Modern vehicles typically use the OAT based products.
What's in my radiator now? Some mechanics have been known to drain out and replace the factory supplied OAT based antifreeze with traditional IAT due to performance concerns about one of the first OAT formulas used called DEX-COOL®. If you took your vehicle to a mechanic who recommended replacing the coolant with a traditional formula, make sure you know which formula is in your system.
What color antifreeze is in my vehicle already? The color of your coolant may be a first indicator that you have something other than traditional antifreeze in your vehicle; however, NEVER RELY ON THE COLOR TO DETERMINE WHAT TYPE OF ANTIFREEZE YOU NEED! There are no standardized rules for manufacturers about what colors to use for their formulas. If you buy a jug of antifreeze and the color is different than what is in your vehicle already, take it as a sign to double check yourself before you mix the two together but don't rely on matching colors as guaranteed compatibility.

Can I Mix the Formulas Together? Is it Really that Bad?
You should not mix OAT based formulas with IAT formulas. The result is typically turning your coolant into sludge due to a chemical reaction. Keep in mind, OAT based formulas are still a developing technology. There are some "universal" formulas that claim compatibility with other IAT and OAT formulas, but the only safe bet is to use the same formula that is already in your vehicle. This may change as the OAT based formulas continue to develop; however, always err on the side of caution and use the same type of formula that the manufacturer recommends.

What Should I Do if I Do Mix Them?
Your best bet is to drain and flush your coolant system as soon as possible. The longer two different formulas are allowed to circulate through your system, the more particles and sludge that can build up. Again, play it safe and drain the system, flush it with coolant, drain it again, and repeat if you still see particles coming out. When you finally have it flushed, replace the coolant with what your manufacturer recommends. At the end of the day, the system was designed to work with the coolant they put in it.

 

Thanks for sharing.

 

Zerex G-05 is labelled as phosphate free and low in silicates. I'm not sure whether OEM coolant is OAT or HOAT, but it sounds like the two can play nicely together, especially after a flush with distilled water.

 

Great info. Thanks pc.

 

 

OEM Recommend?

Not that simple, at least I don't know I might be looking in the wrong places.
2006 Volvo S40 Automatic 2.4 non turbo.
I don't have the owners manual I need to replace Coolant.
Bought Car at 114 k miles, it had Orange coolant which I believe it may be Xerex G05
Manufacture Web site http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/2006/2006_S40/06s40_12a.htm
Coolant: Volvo original coolant/antifreeze (50/50 mixture of water and anti-freeze) 9(quarts)

Now I just had to change the hoes that connects the Thermostat, Tranny in/out, to Radiator, hoes as the original one cracked open at the joints, Job Done.
I want to make sure the car has the correct coolant.
Can the Xerex stuff be mixed with Blue Coolant since that's what seems to be the most popular option for Volvos.
Is Xerex G48 a better fit for this year and model of volvo?
Thank you.

 

Orange coolant is Dexcool. Just spend a few dollars more for genuine Volvo coolant after flushing out whatever is in there now.

 

Valvoline recommends G48 for Volvos.

I used Pentofrost NF, similar stuff, also recommended for all Volvos by its manufacturer.

G05 contains nitrites (unlike G48, Pento NF) so IMO not the best choice.

 

I used Peak European Vehicle. This was what Autozone had for Volvos.

 

My s40 has had G05 in it at least for 50k miles, swapped coolant (again with G05) at 200k. No problems before or after.

 

Theres a version of Zerex that is both HOAT approved and blue, it is almost the same formulation as the OEM stuff. I use it in my 850 and it's great, I get mine from oreily's. A little more expensive, but worth it for the confidence in the product.

 

Yes, Zerex's G-48 is the blue one. Unfortunately for our P1 cars the big box auto part stores make things confusing when it comes to Zerex G-05 vs G-48. For example, on my 2005 S40 T5 the O'Reilly website says the G-05 doesn't fit my car, but the G-48 does. The AutoZone website also states the G-05 doesn't fit my car, however, the Advance Auto Parts website states that G-05 is an exact fit for my car, so as you can see it's confusing, but perhaps why at least two companies state G-05 does not fit is because of the nitrites as mentioned a few times in this thread.

When I bought my car 4 years ago it had 'yellow' coolant in the reservoir. It could've been Prestone or Peak, who knows, but I have used G-05 a couple times to top it off without consequence, but YMMV. Right now I'm dealing with a slow leaking upper radiator hose and once I replace it I'll be using G-48.

 

The kicker is whether or not you change it. I've run Zerex G-05 in my 04 C70 for 12 years and 60k miles, changed it once (It's due for the second change) and have had zero issues. I also run it in my V50 and V70R. I ran generic prestone green in my 01 V70 for 8 years and over 100k miles with zero problems. Changed it twice during that time due to other part changes like hoses and water pump.

You will not hurt your car running the "wrong" coolant, unless you run it for 10 years without changing it. Use Volvo blue if you want to have 100% confidence, but in my experience, age of coolant is a bigger problem than type of coolant.

 

I have a 2005 S40 T5, 187k mi, that is in fantastic shape.

From IPDusa.com I just received my order of Volvo antifreeze. I notice the label says it is "new", as in a new formulation. The gallon jug label is different in design than the Volvo antifreeze I've always used to partially drain and then top off with the "old" Volvo antifreeze (it was blue in color). I do this rather than a complete flush & refill every so often - just get a little fresh stuff in there each year.

Since this new product says "do not mix with other coolants", my question is can I mix it with Volvo's "old" antifreeze? The makeup of the old stuff is listed on the label, but not for the new stuff. If I cannot mix them I'll have to somehow flush the engine of all the existing coolant, which I don't want to do, esp. since I cannot see an engine coolant drain plug, only the radiator's drain valve. (As an aside, can anyone confirm that there is or isn't a block drain?)

There is some good information in this thread (thank you pczeilon, and others) but I still don't know what is or isn't compatible. I hate to call my dealer since their mechanic will tell me any old BS he thinks will send me away.

So, anyone know the implications of mixing the older and new Volvo antifreeze's?

Thanks, and this forum has been very good to me Couldn't have changed the timing belt w/o it, nor the struts, and other items,

Steve

PS: I just noticed a nice write up in another thread (and it has been added to "sticky") on coolant system drain and refill. Apparently there is not block drain plug, just gotta use the radiator valve and run a lot of water through it while running the engine; it's doable.

 

If it says to not mix the coolant, then don't.

There is no block drain but by disconnecting one side of the oil cooler you can get most everything out of the block. The radiator drain is plastic and if it has never been loosened, it may crack. Replacement is just a few dollars if that happens. The heater core is the hardest to drain, often best to simply stick a hose on something and let it flow.

Generally speaking, you'll never get the system fully drained, so you can then add the 50/50 coolant. Plan on having a bunch of water in it after flush/drain, and adding the proper amount of straight coolant followed by the remaining water.

To properly bleed a fully drained cooling system takes either a vacuum unit, or patience. It can be done either way. There are threads here.