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XC70 T6 Maintenance Cost

7.5K views 20 replies 14 participants last post by  SwedeSweet  
#1 · (Edited)
My 2014 XC70 T6 Platinum just turned 100k miles. Always serviced at the dealer where I bought it, except for tires and batteries. I have kept detailed maintenance records since new. Thus far it has cost 16 cents a mile for maintenance and repairs, not including gas, insurance, and registration. That’s total cost over mileage. This number has been creeping up over the years and shows no signs of leveling out yet. It was at 13 cents a mile until the 100K service and AC compressor recently. Hoping it won’t nudge higher for a while yet.

The only major issue it has had was the adaptive cruise control malfunctioning intermittently for over three years. The dealer split the cost with me or absorbed the cost outright for some of the modules and parts they swapped out trying to fix it, well after the warranty was over, until one technician finally traced the issue to a bad connector, and it’s been ok since. This issue added about one cent a mile to the calculation.

So, that adds up to about $135 per month now to keep it going - a lot less than new car payments for a vehicle that’s similarly capable. It does everything I ask of it – quiet, comfortable, hauls a good amount of stuff, enough ground clearance and traction for snow and potholed forest roads leading to trailheads, and makes swift progress on the highway without calling undue attention to ourselves. Love that straight six turbo. It averages about 22 mpg on the trip computer. Burns about half a quart between 5k oil changes. In hindsight I should have changed the oil more frequently earlier on than the factory 10K interval. But still, it feels almost new and yet comfy like an old glove when I settle into it after driving buzzy rental cars on work trips.

These are the details of the repairs and maintenance items it’s gone through:
MileageService/Repair
0Delivery
897810k service
1986720k service, camera fix, rear brakes, engine mount replace
2991930k service, rear brakes
3991140k service, software update,
4983850k service
56948New tires, Michelin CrossContact
57267Alignment
6004360k Service, side mirror repair, rear brakes
6985370k service, recharge AC, brake vacuum pump fix
70000New Battery
72556Door panel secure, wiper blades
73830Camera fix
7945080k service, radar fix, rear rotors and pads, RHS engine mount
81177Camera fix (New FSM)
86189Oil change, camera alignment NC
87373camera fix NC (new windshield, new FSM , new FLR)
90000New tires, Michelin CrossClimate2
9010090k service, wiper blades, replace power steering fluid, camera fix NC
90653Replace wire terminal, reset adaptive cruise
91151Replace transmission fluid, replace Haldex fluid and filter, replace rear gas strut
9516095k oil change, rotate tires
96400Replace battery Interstate MTX-94R/H7
100000100K service, replace AC pump and Tech Service Bulletin hose


Crossing Puget sound

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#3 ·
They are the best cars and very reliable, most dependable cars money can buy. They will run forever. If you want you can try doing a BG EPR service for like 40 minutes before you change the oil and that can help with your slight oil consumption issue. It's a good product. Beautiful car. I love Volvo station wagons.
 
#4 ·
All BG products are high quality. BG only sells to automotive repair shops. They will sell BG products over the counter. BG Products, Inc. – BG provides high quality products and equipment to dealerships, independent shops, and franchises so they can perform Automotive Maintenance Services on vehicles.
Read the can label on the BG EPR. Add EPR to the engine oil. Run the engine at idle up to 1400 RPM.
Do not drive the car, it will dilute the engine oil. EPR is a very mild solvent that will clean oil gunk and passages. After the oil change, add MOA oil additive. A can of 44K on the tank will not hurt. We have had EPR reduce oil consumption. 5K oil changes are better than 10K oil changes. Rotate the tires every 5K will reduce worn out tires. The pic below is the drive belt tensioner pulley bearing grease dried out, overheated and melted the plastic wheel on the pulley causing belt failure. This happened more on 2007-2010 models.
The maintenance chart list drive belt stuff 150K or 10 years. Your 10Yr ticker just popped. I would also replace the water pump. The 2nd pic is the water pump pulley. You are already there. If you do not replace the WP with the belt service, you are asking the WP to last another 10 years or 150K miles. I would have the dealer do all of the work. You will get lifetime warranty on new parts, unlimited miles as long as you own the car. One more thing, you can do this, remove the engine cover. Move the drive belt in both directions. The belt driver puller is a one-way clutch. The belt will move smoothly in one direction but not the other. If the belt does not move, the one-way bearing grease is dried out and the one-way pulley should be replaced. Or replace it anyway. The one-way pulley is about $400 for the part plus labor. If you do the belt/pulley service, water pump and one-way pulley it can be $2000 to $2500 depending on dealer labor charge/hr and time charged for repair.
Not at this time with the belt service but something to prepare for future preventative repairs.
In the 3rd pic, the rubber alt belt gets replace at 150K. I have never seen one fail. The intake manifold has to be remove to do pic 3 repairs. I would replace the driver gear and center bolt for the alt belt coupler also. The driver gear can crack and fail causing the alt not to spin. The coolant hose out of the eng block to oil cooler will crack from the inside out, split open and leak/pour out coolant. The t-stat is right there, why not replace it. We are starting to see the engine oil cooler 2007-2010's fail and leak engine oil into the coolant. I would recommend replacing the oil cooler so that this does not become a problem. I know that this is a lot of stuff and not cheap repairs. If one of the above was to fail while driving it would cost a lot more to fix.








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#6 ·
I would hold onto it. It's maybe 30% through its usable lifespan, and while Volvo's newer SPA products are superb in their own right, the P3 XC70 (specifically with the T6) is a masterpiece that hasn't yet been followed up. And it's paid off. Any car paid off is better than a car that isn't.
 
owns 2012 Volvo XC70 T6 Platinum
#7 ·
Thanks all, good tips volvogod that’s going in my spreadsheet to-do list. That’s the kind of tribal knowledge I expect the dealer to tell me because I still take it there but it doesn’t happen much. I must admit my wandering eye has looked at other options over the years, like 4runner, XC60/90 hybrids, used RRsport, etc. but at the end of the day it’s hard to justify the value proposition vs. the old XC70. Its stable mate is an XC40 Recharge and that doesn’t need a spread sheet to keep going – so far it just keeps going and going! Well, at least until the charge goes down to 20%, and therein lies the rub.
 
#11 ·
Ugh, I can tell you right now, the 4Runner is not the answer. Ask me how I know ;)

XC70 T6 + XC40 Recharge sounds like the perfect 2-car garage. The only reason I'd make a change is if you wanted to go down to 1 car, in which case I would recommend an XC60 T8. We love ours!
 
owns 2012 Volvo XC70 T6 Platinum
#8 ·
In the past 5-10 years all dealerships have had a lot of employee turn over. The older experienced techs are retiring out of the business. The newer service writers and techs just do not have the long term knowledge and/or experience to know what to watch out for or better yet, give a crap. Dealerships still have old school techs, if you are lucky enough to have one work on your car, that is a good thing. Talk to your service writer to see who may have worked there the longest and has experience on older Volvo's. Your XC is an awesome car, just time for a little TLC. Add polestar, you will love it. You have added power from the first press of the gas. I would recommend a 2020 or newer Volvo. A CPO Volvo will have 5 years unlimited mileage warranty from the in service date. Volvo has seemed to get the kinks worked out of the hybrids. 2022 or newer hybrid gets 35 miles on battery vs 18 miles on 2016-2021 hybrids. I am glad that you have found SwedeSpeed. There is a lot of great information shared here.
 
#10 ·
So, that adds up to about $135 per month now to keep it going - a lot less than new car payments for a vehicle that’s similarly capable. It does everything I ask of it – quiet, comfortable, hauls a good amount of stuff, enough ground clearance and traction for snow and potholed forest roads leading to trailheads, and makes swift progress on the highway without calling undue attention to ourselves. Love that straight six turbo. It averages about 22 mpg on the trip computer. Burns about half a quart between 5k oil changes. In hindsight I should have changed the oil more frequently earlier on than the factory 10K interval. But still, it feels almost new and yet comfy like an old glove when I settle into it after driving buzzy rental cars on work trips.
Just wait until you upgrade to an EV Volvo.
The savings will be far greater!
(y)
 
#14 ·
tips hat hello fellow pnw Volvo!

My last ferry ride


Have you changed your PCV? Super easy on these T6's albeit a little tedious, and I don't know, could it be forcing a little oil blow by?




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#17 ·
My 2011 has 235k miles on it and has been pretty damn cheap to run.
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I include anything maintenance in the figure (e.g. new tires, seasonal change between Pilot Sport summer tires and Blizzak winter shoes). I track my gas costs and I use premium (is there a thread on that somewhere....LOL).
I keep the car aesthetically clean as possible, without going overboard. People are shocked my car has 235 on the clock. I do oil changes with Mobil 1 synth (is there a thread on that somewhere...LOL) every 10k whether it needs it or not. I do a Blackstone oil analysis every other change and those are remarkably steady.

If anyone ever hits me in this car I swear I'll go to jail for murder because there is no way an insurance co would pay to rebuild the car and I couldn't replace the car for 5x of what they'd give me for it.
 
#18 ·
My 2011 has 235k miles on it and has been pretty damn cheap to run.
View attachment 231649
I include anything maintenance in the figure (e.g. new tires, seasonal change between Pilot Sport summer tires and Blizzak winter shoes). I track my gas costs and I use premium (is there a thread on that somewhere....LOL).
I keep the car aesthetically clean as possible, without going overboard. People are shocked my car has 235 on the clock. I do oil changes with Mobil 1 synth (is there a thread on that somewhere...LOL) every 10k whether it needs it or not. I do a Blackstone oil analysis every other change and those are remarkably steady.

If anyone ever hits me in this car I swear I'll go to jail for murder because there is no way an insurance co would pay to rebuild the car and I couldn't replace the car for 5x of what they'd give me for it.
They are 'a low cost to own overachiever.' :love:
 
#21 ·
Nice writeup and record keeping. I've just recently 1 month ago bought a 2015 XC70 T6 and am getting familiar with the platform. Seems to have a loyal following. It's already becoming a favorite in my current fleet, certainly a great utility mix of several other vehicles.

Looking over the maintenance costs, there's not much unusual there that other cars wouldn't have cost you in the same decade. In other words all cars need certain replacement items no matter the brand.

Volvo is certainly going to be more expensive versus domestic cars, especially dealer serviced Volvo. By comparison, the best vehicle I've ever owned is my 2004 4Runner with 4.7L V8, purchased new in 2003, now with 206k miles. Never has it let me down. I have a spreadsheet with every cost and event since new. Works out to $30k purchase price, $12k in maintenance costs (everything from light bulbs, tires, oil and fluids, filters, bearings, belts, plugs, etc.). Very low maintenance costs. About $12,000 over 22 years and 206k miles. I also give CREDIT costs of ownership, when the vehicle (whether this, or my pickup truck) provides a valuable work service like hauling or towing, moving costs, saving me money or allowing me to get materials, etc. If a vehicle allows you to do something you might not otherwise have the opportunity, a credit seems necessary. For instance, one day on my way to work, I saw a near new working freezer chest being set out to the curb for free, by a family that was moving and couldn't take it. I was in the right time/place and snagged it, and had been wanting one! That's a $200 value. So over 2 decades, my 4Runner has a credit of $13,000. (My pickup truck has literally paid for itself in these types of credits.) 4Runner is going strong too, I just took it on a weekend ski trip and slept in it with my 2 dogs (saving me $150 in hotel fees).

So, yes, a Volvo with a turbo charger is going to be a bit more expensive to keep maintained I suspect. But an incredible vehicle, so far. Comfortable, safe, powerful, stylish. I'll keep mine as long as it continues to be reliable. Not much can directly compete with it at the price point, I got mine for about $12k last month. After 800 miles of driving it I love it.