Any center driveshaft from a 2007 or later XC90 will fit. It's the same part.

 

@Old Reliable Thank you!

So far I found for the driver side the standard driveshaft in 535mm length but there is also a version with 588mm. Since I lifted my Xc70, I assume it would be better to choose the longer driveshaft to reduce the angle or I'm wrong? The same applies for the passenger side, I found a standard version with 947-987mm and a longer version with 1031mm?

 

@Old Reliable Thank you!

So far I found for the driver side the standard driveshaft in 535mm length but there is also a version with 588mm. Since I lifted my Xc70, I assume it would be better to choose the longer driveshaft to reduce the angle or I'm wrong? The same applies for the passenger side, I found a standard version with 947-987mm and a longer version with 1031mm?


View attachment 214259

The control arms in the XC90 are also different along with the knuckles. I don't even think the wheel bearings are the same. However if you are willing to swap all of those over as well you should be able to get it higher.

 

Better install Nivomats, they fit an overlanding XC70 build quite well. @Antherzoll and myself did that and are very happy.

You do want a transmission auxiliary cooler and inline magnetic filter, like Magnefine. AW55 does not lock its torque converter until late in third gear, it generates outrageous amount of heat when plows through snow or mud.

Geolandar G015's are bad:

You want a proper LT AT tire that won't let you down. BFG KO2, General Grabber A/TX, etc. I currently have a milder P-rated AT tires: Vredestein Pinza AT. They are great on pavement, but I have more trust in Grabber A/TX on my Tundra when I'm heading to boonies.

 

Better install Nivomats, they fit an overlanding XC70 build quite well. @Antherzoll and myself did that and are very happy.

You do want a transmission auxiliary cooler and inline magnetic filter, like Magnefine. AW55 does not lock its torque converter until late in third gear, it generates outrageous amount of heat when plows through snow or mud.

Geolandar G015's are bad:

View attachment 214304
They have no lateral traction. Absolutely disastrous in snow and on loose gravel.

You want a proper LT AT tire that won't let you down. BFG KO2, General Grabber A/TX, etc. I currently have a milder P-rated AT tires: Vredestein Pinza AT. They are great on pavement, but I have more trust in Grabber A/TX on my Tundra when I'm heading to boonies.

 

I would also highly recommend welding a radiator protection cage, since it hangs in front of the subframe, only covered by a thin bumper plastic. I stick-welded mine from ~2mm stainless steel sheets. Welds looks crappy, but it withstood sledgehammer blows and a 110 FPE crossbow shot A bear's butt hit in far north Canada inspired me to do that cage just in case.

 

@vtl

Thank you for your advice considering the transmission oil cooler and radiator protection. I've completely overseen these points.


So what's your thoughts about the driveshaft length?

Considering the AT tires we have over here some limitations due the TüV(strict technical safety inspection). The tire size has to keep the speedometer in 3% -/+ tolerance and 215/70R16 are the limit if I want to stay in these tolerance. I have to find out if a recalibration of the speedometer with Vida is possible. If it's possible I will directly pull the trigger for a set of 225/70 R16 KO2.

Regarding the Nivomats I'm not a fan of these kind of dampers, we will travel as light as possible. Also just installed the new dampers maybe later but first we're looking forward for the first longer trip.

 

I thought you were referring to the propeller shaft not the CV's my bad.

 

XC90 2.5T axles go into offroad builds like they belong there. I don't know if they fit diesel XC70, we don't have it here in US.

I was mainly talking about tires themselves. They are outright dangerous in my experience.

With a slight body lift you can squeeze in a 29" tire in XC70. I did that. Not sure if it's legal in Germany, but I would change these Yokos anyways. CEM has an option for up to 29" tall tires. You need to hack a CEM PIN, then you can change that parameter.

KO2 are very noisy, consider more modern tires with acoustically modeled thread pattern. Just make sure they have a real AT thread pattern that will keep you on track in speedy turns. Also it totally makes sense to remove wheel well liners and spray everything with Noxudol 1600 or a similar product in a few thick layers. That will help a lot with both road noise and corrosion resistance.

I'm a big fan of Nivomats. Superb when unloaded, irreplaceable when loaded to the roof.

 

congrats on the new ride

Tutuapp 9Apps​

 

@vtl
Thank you for advice regarding the tires. I will do the cem crack soon to delete permantly the 4C failure report and then change also the speedometer parameter.

So I have read your build report so far and about your problems with the rear springs. I can suggest you these HD rear springs. I've install them in the rear for my 2" lift. They work unloaded and loaded really good and even on high speeds like 160km/h on bumpy german autobahn they will keep the rear smooth and safe.

About the axles I know that in the US no Diesel versions were sold but I thought that one of the benefits of the XC90 2.5T axles are also the longer length compared to the XC70 axles. So longer length less stress for the CV due reduced angles.

Do you have detailed pictures from your oil cooler installation? I will try to gather the needed parts over here. I installed in the past a combination of mocal and setrab parts for my diy oil cooler in my last Subaru.

@Old Reliable

My fault, could have explained better but thank you for your explanation and support!

 

Yeah, I've had these HD springs. Not comparable to Nivomats.

@vtl
Thank you for advice regarding the tires. I will do the cem crack soon to delete permantly the 4C failure report and then change also the speedometer parameter.

So I have read your build report so far and about your problems with the rear springs. I can suggest you these HD rear springs. I've install them in the rear for my 2" lift. They work unloaded and loaded really good and even on high speeds like 160km/h on bumpy german autobahn they will keep the rear smooth and safe.

About the axles I know that in the US no Diesel versions were sold but I thought that one of the benefits of the XC90 2.5T axles are also the longer length compared to the XC70 axles. So longer length less stress for the CV due reduced angles.

Do you have detailed pictures from your oil cooler installation? I will try to gather the needed parts over here. I installed in the past a combination of mocal and setrab parts for my diy oil cooler in my last Subaru.

It's really nothing special. Hayden OC transmission cooler (not the biggest one), 10 mm oil hose, 10 mm Magnefine filter, 10 mm barb splicers. Cut the heat exchanger return line (the one going to the top of the valve body cover), added the filter, routed the hose, bolted the cooler using aluminum angles. If you have any past experience with that matter you won't see any problems with Volvo install.

I had these springs, for about 2 weeks. Too harsh when empty, not that much support when loaded.

 

Cool project. Can you provide any details on the turbocharger, like the MHI (or IHI or Garrett?) number on the compressor? If MHI it will be 49XXX-XXXXX format.

 

I'm right now not able to have a look into the engine bay but I checked the car parts system. It must be a Garrett 757779-9022s but as soon as I'm able to double check it I let you know.

 

God, there’s no better car community in the world than the Volvo community. What a great thread.

 

One more thing that comes to mind is the scoop that the rear bumper is. It seriously affects an already poor departure angle. You need to cut it or somehow guard with some sort of a skid plate.

Skid plate is even more beneficial, since the trunk area is spot welded and is very weak. I've seen people tearing it along the seams after bottoming it against a boulder.

Was planning to fabricate one and use the OE hitch I have as a mounting frame, but the engine and then transmission blew up, I spent 2+ years fixing them, and meanwhile switched completely to the other vehicle for my wilderness trips. But the rear skid would compliment the radiator cage very well. Cage is slightly inclined at the bottom, it acts as a skid as well.

 

Actually, @XC70D5 are you sure your diesel axles have tripods? Unless they do, conversion to XC90 axles would make no sense.

 

How can I check if my car has tripod axles or not without dismantling of the axles?

Here some screenshots from online parts shop, the shop site states that these fit also for XC90 D5 185hp.

So do they look like tripods?

Left side:

Right side:

 

The pictured axles have the inner tripod joint.

I was thinking XC90 gasser into XC70 diesel swap. But, Different transmissions, so I'm pretty sure that's a no go. As far as XC90 diesel axle into XC70 diesel? I don't know. I'm no help.

But, you say above that the parts site info says it's the same axles for the XC90 and XC70. If they're the same, no point in swapping.

On the gassers, the XC90 axles are clearly beefier than the XC70, and XC90's have the inner CV joint rather than the tripod, so it makes a lot of sense to swap.

Brett

 

The pictured axles have the inner tripod joint.

I was thinking XC90 gasser into XC70 diesel swap. But, Different transmissions, so I'm pretty sure that's a no go. As far as XC90 diesel axle into XC70 diesel? I don't know. I'm no help.

But, you say above that the parts site info says it's the same axles for the XC90 and XC70. If they're the same, no point in swapping.

On the gassers, the XC90 axles are clearly beefier than the XC70, and XC90's have the inner CV joint rather than the tripod, so it makes a lot of sense to swap.

Brett

Ok, the in post #3 mentioned axles wich are longer in length look different to me. So from your experience are these non tripod?

And what do you mean with "gasser"?

 

Yes, those have CV joints on both ends (CV = constant velocity). The CV joint is a stronger bearing design vs. the tripod. Better for heavier duty applications.

Gasser = gasoline powered vehicle.

Brett

 

I think in high-torque applications you can get away with tripod joints.

 

Thank you,

I wanna get rid of the wobble and vibration in the steering wheel while driving.
So as soon as I'm back I will order the axles from post #24, the longer length should be compensated by the lift.
I hate it to repair things twice, so heavy duty is the way to go.

 

Vibration while driving steady (no acceleration) is usually not an axle.

 

I know, vibrations occur while acceleration or above speeds of 120km/h.

I guess it started 500-800km after the install of the XC90 front.springs. To make sure that there was no issue with the old wheel set I got them balanced before the car got an alignment.

Unfortunately even after the actual wheel set and tyres were mounted, they were also balanced and vibration is still there. So my guess is that it must be the axles.
.

 

Hello,

just want to introduce our new to us Volvo XC70 D5 185hp automatic. We named our XC70 Balou because we have noticed some similarities to the jungle book Balou character

We bought our car in may with intention to do some trips to Scandinavia, Balkans and maybe Northern Africa. So you may think why they didn't choose a proper 4x4?!

So I drove in my past jobs Landcruiser J7,J8,200er series and also MB G Wagons, they're absolutely they way to go if you look out for a proper 4x4 especially to drive it in Africa.

Unfortunately than reality hits you hard in Europe, first they're really expensive to get, second to maintain and at least the fuel economy is also a nightmare, if we consider the prices over here.

Our conclusion was to get the XC70, it's our all-round car, since most of our commute are done by bicycle our motorbike, so we use Balou for long trips.

About the facts:

Balou was equipped with 4C Suspension wich was totally worn out.
I used the opportunity to install instead new Sachs Shocks with XC90 D5 front springs and Sachs Shocks in the rear with Lesjöfors Heavy Duty springs. Also other worn out parts have been changed, like toe ends.

I did some stuff by myself because it was really hard to find a mechanic who was willing to support me for the other things. View attachment 214224
View attachment 214225
Since the wheels and tyres needed also a refresh I ordered and mounted some 7x16 +38 offset wheels with Yokohama Geolandar A/T G015 215/70R16.
View attachment 214226


After the wheel alignment and hundred kilometers driven I think the driveshaft issue started to show up while driving between 110-130km/h on the Autobahn there is a continues vibration in the steering wheel which feels really bad. Also I'm afraid that these constant vibrations will harm the automatic transmission.

So I'm planning to go for the XC90 driveshafts but I'm uncertain which will fit and how the number of teeth are matter on the outer wheel side.

So sorry about misspellings or mistakes I just wrote it down on my phone without deepl or google translate and I'm not a native speaker.

Looking forward for some feedback
and inputs about the driveshaft issue.



Nevertheless I have planned in midterm a transmission flush, underbody armor and a D5T5 coding to get rid of the 4C error code which shows up every time I start.

Bit of friendly advice; DO NOT EVER do a transmission flush, you would have to research this to know AND UNDERSTAND why!!!!!

 

Bit of friendly advice; DO NOT EVER do

I know this is an old thread, but why is this important?? Can you send me some links about this? I have 2007 XC90 D5 Automatic and would like to research this topic... Thank you! Best, Oliver

 

Hello,

I'm in almost in the same boat as you
Was it worth it installing the xc90 springs and the HD rear springs? how much lift did it gave you?
I am planning to tow a maximum 350 kg (fully loaded) small overlanding trailer to go camping with the wife and the dogs. We had a small Pajero, but the Volvo is miles away better in comfort.

Do you know if TÜV forbids auxilary lights? I am day dreaming installing these ones:

 

Hello,

I'm in almost in the same boat as you
Was it worth it installing the xc90 springs and the HD rear springs? how much lift did it gave you?
I am planning to tow a maximum 350 kg (fully loaded) small overlanding trailer to go camping with the wife and the dogs. We had a small Pajero, but the Volvo is miles away better in comfort.

Do you know if TÜV forbids auxilary lights? I am day dreaming installing these ones:

View attachment 215134

Hello,

for me it was absolutely worth to install XC90 front& HD rear spring, the car drives more stable and ground clearance is far better. So far I pulled rowing boat trailer with 4 seater rowing boats loaded, it drives really stable and comfortable. The 4C suspension in our XC70 was complete worn out and made a made a refresh necessary. Unfortunately I forgot to measure it before and after install but I would guess suspension caused 3-4cm lift and the 215/70 R16 another 1cm, so in total 4-5cm lift. As soon as I'm able to measure it, I will add the numbers here.

The TüV allows auxiliary lights, I'm unsure if as "working lights" or as additional high beams.

I'm also interested in auxiliary lights but smaller owns, I don't want to block air flow for the coolers to much.

 

Hello,

just want to introduce our new to us Volvo XC70 D5 185hp automatic. We named our XC70 Balou because we have noticed some similarities to the jungle book Balou character

We bought our car in may with intention to do some trips to Scandinavia, Balkans and maybe Northern Africa. So you may think why they didn't choose a proper 4x4?!

So I drove in my past jobs Landcruiser J7,J8,200er series and also MB G Wagons, they're absolutely they way to go if you look out for a proper 4x4 especially to drive it in Africa.

Unfortunately than reality hits you hard in Europe, first they're really expensive to get, second to maintain and at least the fuel economy is also a nightmare, if we consider the prices over here.

Our conclusion was to get the XC70, it's our all-round car, since most of our commute are done by bicycle our motorbike, so we use Balou for long trips.

About the facts:

Balou was equipped with 4C Suspension wich was totally worn out.
I used the opportunity to install instead new Sachs Shocks with XC90 D5 front springs and Sachs Shocks in the rear with Lesjöfors Heavy Duty springs. Also other worn out parts have been changed, like toe ends.

I did some stuff by myself because it was really hard to find a mechanic who was willing to support me for the other things. View attachment 214224
View attachment 214225
Since the wheels and tyres needed also a refresh I ordered and mounted some 7x16 +38 offset wheels with Yokohama Geolandar A/T G015 215/70R16.
View attachment 214226


After the wheel alignment and hundred kilometers driven I think the driveshaft issue started to show up while driving between 110-130km/h on the Autobahn there is a continues vibration in the steering wheel which feels really bad suggestion for Frigidaire EFIC452 download instruction manual pdf. Also I'm afraid that these constant vibrations will harm the automatic transmission.

So I'm planning to go for the XC90 driveshafts but I'm uncertain which will fit and how the number of teeth are matter on the outer wheel side.

So sorry about misspellings or mistakes I just wrote it down on my phone without deepl or google translate and I'm not a native speaker.

Looking forward for some feedback
and inputs about the driveshaft issue.



Nevertheless I have planned in midterm a transmission flush, underbody armor and a D5T5 coding to get rid of the 4C error code which shows up every time I start.

Hello, That's for taking the time to read this. I'm looking to change my car. Have £4-£5 to spend and am looking for estate with AWD or selective 4x4. Need the space of the estate and use of 4x4 for fishing/shooting. Also looking for some level of luxury heated leather and maybe a few other extras to make a nice easy daily drive. DEFINITELY want a diesel. The first car I fancy is the XC70 but have heard a few grumbling a....basically cars 00-04 had some reoccurring problems. Any truth in this and if so what are they? Secondly, was the rumour of the tax being cheaper on 08 onwards vehicles. Is this true? And the D5 engine sounds good. Failing this, I've also thought of Audi A4/A6 AWD but seem to hear some nasty and expensive problems crop up with the cars in the price/age range I'm looking at?? And also Skoda Octavia/Scout 4x4 but feel these may not provide the daily comfort I want and low level build quality. Any other suggestions?? Many thanks and I look forward to any replies from your own experience,

 

In means of tax I guess the Skoda Octavia/ Audi A4/A6 with the 2.0 TDI should be cheaper based on my knowledge in Germany since the engine is smaller and newer emission class. They have also the haldex based all wheel drive system.

If would suggest to look for a D5 from 2006 and newer. In concerns of reliability I would suggest the D5 with 185hp.

 

I have heard that VWs haldexes are more prone to breaking. Volvo have collar sleeve problem, bur they have problems with pump and electronics themselves. Also having driven 5 cylinder engines, wouldn't it be hard to listen to 4 cylinders again?

 

Collar sleeve stripping partially resolved in 2006 with Gen3 Haldex which keeps the rear preloaded at all times, so no full might abrupt blow onto the splines when it decides to engage the rear.

Also DEM location is, eh, not optimal. Take yours out until it fails, open the cover, clean any oil, remove oxidation on casing, reseal with appropriate sealant. Buy IPD DEM cover of fabricate your own, it helps immensely.

 

Volvo have collar sleeve problem, bur they have problems with pump and electronics themselves.

Showbox jiofi.local.html tplinklogin​

 

So I have been busy with my job but lets go back to the overhaul.

I could crack my CEM Pin and managed with VDash to deactivate 4C in my XC70 to get rid of the warning lights after my 4C delete.

No, I have ran into another problem. Since 4C deactivation I have to rewire my xenon level sensor but actually don't have any clue how to do so.
I think I will have to compare in Vida the wiring diagrams.