Sorry to hear. I'd say fix it before rust comes in which means more labor cost and metal to remove. Though it's surprising no rust has appeared yet - I see you're in TX, no wonder! - did Volvo properly design some sacrificial metal? Good luck!

 

That stinks. I’d bite the bullet and get it fixed. Any decent body shop should be able to match the black paint, the car is fairly new and OEM color.

 

The body panels are electrogalvanized and coat so I wouldn't worry about rust developing just yet. The whole body as a matter of fact is dipped, so it'll resist rust for a bit. Note: I did not say rust proof.

There's only one way to fix this - take it to a body shop. They won't have to spray the whole door panel, but they will have to probably sand and spray a 1/4 of the lower panel both up and to the right in order to create a seamless blend line between new paint / old paint and the build coats before clear coat.

The plastic fender trim can be saved. All that needs is plasticized bonder, sand, prime and paint. If the labor of this exceeds a new part, then of course, just get the new part.

All in all, I estimate the damage here to be about a $1,100-$1,300 repair, labor and high quality materials. 6-8 hours of real-time labor at most.

 

If I were you, I will try wet sanding and touch up paint from Volvo. That will hide the scratches. If that didn't work, I will proceed with sectional paint (smart repair).

Watch the below Video or type wet sanding on YouTube and you will find plenty:

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Wet sanding and touch up is good for light scratches that maybe cut through the clear coat and a layer of paint.
The scratches here appear to have cut through down to the primer coat. That is going to need to be addressed because the primer may be compromised.

 

The only time I've tried to fix a relatively small scratch with the Volvo touch up color it was not exactly a success. Unless you are really good at (like Nerd23 above probably is) it I'd say body shop...

 

It's not a touch up paint only. It's a wet sanding + touch up paint + polishing and waxing. All of these work together to hide the scratches. Youtube videos explain it very well.

He will lose nothing if that didn't work, he will just fail to save himself the "repainting".

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Body shop time. That's not a touch up paint type of situation.

 

Agree with others. Take it to a body shop. My wife backed into my son's car that was parked in the driveway a couple of years ago. Primarily cosmetic damage on the bumper but they fixed it up and repainted. There is no difference with the color of the rest of the vehicle and we have the Bursting Blue. Find one you trust and they should be able to handle it, no problem.

 

Scratched to bare metal . . . Body shop. My two kids have had their cars in body shops recently and both cars turned out well. My Suburban’s bumper cover got dinged up when in for service and the repair was likewise good. Can’t tell. Important thing is to find a quality body shop. You might want to look at Yelp or Angies List for references. In the Washington, DC area we have a consumers check boo magazine that rates area businesses for value and quality. Your city may have something similar as well.

Good luck!

 

My wife rubbed shoulders with a concrete pylon, the kind you'll find near gas pumps. (This vehicle always has half a dozen alarms buzzing, I imagine it's easy to become acclimated to them.)

Anyway, it's at the bottom corner of the passenger side back door. The two adjacent plastic panels are scuffed, no big deal. But the metal is also scratched all the way down to metal. No rust yet although it's been about a month.

Mean the DIY is to wet sand and apply paint / clear coat...But that won't be a perfect match.... Dealer will 100% have to repaint the area. I have a deep clear coat scratch that drives me nuts going down the rear passenger door.. And I was told it'd easily run $1000. So I'd be guessing you've got a few thousand in repainting going on....

Might be worth an insurance claim.

 

where is it down to metal? the worst spots to me look like the door lower trim piece and the fender extension. both are plastic, the flare i know comes pre painted. not sure on the lower door trim. quick buff will take the white paint off the xc90 and show how bad it is. frankly i use lacquer thinner or rain-x but i wouldnt recommend these on paint unless you know what you are doing. but step 1 is assess damage under the paint transfer

 

If I shine a flashlight at the part nearest to the back edge of the door I can see a metallic reflection along a vertical line. The concrete post likely pushed the door in and then bit off a chunk of paint when it encountered the ridge in the door.

 

I think a mobile fix and paint shop can fix that at your home or office. I used this company twice on very small scratches, one needed a blend, and they had all the equipment in the mobile and everything came out perfect.

So look for one of these in your area

https://www.fyxme.com/

 

Get a DIY spray kit and follow instructions carefully. Take your time. It may have a good result. The process takes long but it's not hard. I did fix a scratch myself in a rush, and it turned out pretty good.

https://forums.swedespeed.com/showt....com/showthread.php?614283-Where-to-buy-OEM-Touchup-paint&p=7498805#post7498805

 

Maybe I will. As others have pointed out - not much to lose!

 

If it s a leased car, you may have extra damage costs when you turn it in if it is not fixed properly.

 

Black is stupid easy to match. That low you probably don’t have to blend the door. You can see if you can buy the bumper piece prepainted. First thing u need to do is hit it with compound to see how much damage is there. The compound will make it les white.

 

I have done auto paint work in the past. This is no insignificant blemish, it is a fairly large area. I would not do this myself if I wanted the car to look good afterwards, and it doesn’t matter that the car is black - there is a lot more to making your car look good than just having it be black. You are dealing with scratches and a metallic color and clearcoat and blending, and the fact that you are wondering how to fix it is evidence in itself of your inexperience- no offense intended. Minimally decent paintwork on something of this size (I can’t even see where the scratch in the upper right side ends) is not an easy thing to do, period. I recommend that you bite the bullet and take it to a competent body shop if you want your car to look good. As to the idea that it can’t hurt to try, I will tell you that it *can* hurt to do this yourself if you value the appearance of this part of your car - and your disposition - because I can pretty well guarantee that it is going to ruin your day when you try fixing it yourself.

 

I have done auto paint work in the past. This is no insignificant blemish, it is a fairly large area. I would not do this myself if I wanted the car to look good afterwards, and it doesn't matter that the car is black - there is a lot more to making your car look good than just having it be black. You are dealing with scratches and a metallic color and clearcoat and blending, and the fact that you are wondering how to fix it is evidence in itself of your inexperience- no offense intended. Minimally decent paintwork on something of this size (I can't even see where the scratch in the upper right side ends) is not an easy thing to do, period. I recommend that you bite the bullet and take it to a competent body shop if you want your car to look good. As to the idea that it can't hurt to try, I will tell you that it *can* hurt to do this yourself if you value the appearance of this part of your car - and your disposition - because I can pretty well guarantee that it is going to ruin your day when you try fixing it yourself.

If he's keen on not paying for a professional repair, and tries Dr. Colorchip or some other repair kit, it probably might pass the 5 foot muster...But, it won't be great, just passable. Either way, I bet those panels will require stripping and repainting if he has a bodyshop do the work. Blending only goes so far.

 

Well, I dunno. I’m not current on touchup kits, so maybe there is some new magic on the market. In the old days I did entire cars in enamel and hand-rubbed lacquer. And I did some painting with the newer catalyzed materials when they came out (using nothing more than a paint respirator, like an idiot duh, when fresh-air was the only safe thing). So I don’t know the latest materials, but I do have a lot of experience with the basic methods and problems - and the only reason that that car might look minimally passible from 5 feet, if I went at it with sandpaper and spray cans, is that the damage is down low and it’s a dark color and the location of the panel crease might be enough to keep some of the reflection down. We all hate these unexpected expenses and disruptions when they pop up, but in the end, were it me, I would just grit my teeth and take it to a professional if I cared about the appearance. My $0.02...

 

Well, I dunno. I'm not current on touchup kits, so maybe there is some new magic on the market. In the old days I did entire cars in enamel and hand-rubbed lacquer. And I did some painting with the newer catalyzed materials when they came out (using nothing more than a paint respirator, like an idiot duh, when fresh-air was the only safe thing). So I don't know the latest materials, but I do have a lot of experience with the basic methods and problems - and the only reason that that car might look minimally passible from 5 feet, if I went at it with sandpaper and spray cans, is that the damage is down low and it's a dark color and the location of the panel crease might be enough to keep some of the reflection down. We all hate these unexpected expenses and disruptions when they pop up, but in the end, were it me, I would just grit my teeth and take it to a professional if I cared about the appearance. My $0.02...

I'd probably bite the bullet if I were OP and do an insurance claim if appearance mattered. Any DIY home remedy isn't going to pass muster. Period. Other option live with it and realize wear and tear will happen over time.

 

There is no way a DYI job (no matter how handy one is) will be able to achieve a match that will not give a clue that this has been repainted.

I see a lot of “experts” here re: DYI ideas but they are all nit taking into account that it’s a metallic color and there is possible metal deformation from the encounter...

Either pay a body shop to do this perfectly or let the insurance handle it.

 

Got it done! I'm at home because of the covid shutdown in my state. Body shops are still open however so I took it in for an estimate. Didn't want to go through insurance and we settled on a cash payment of $700 in crisp $100 bills.

Looks better than new. The reflections don't do this any justice, everything is like a mirror!

 

Got it done! I'm at home because of the covid shutdown in my state. Body shops are still open however so I took it in for an estimate. Didn't want to go through insurance and we settled on a cash payment of $700 in crisp $100 bills.

Looks better than new. The reflections don't do this any justice, everything is like a mirror!

Volvo Body Shop do the work or a 3rd party? Hell, I have a deep clear coat scratch and a panel repaint was quoted at around $800.

 

Lookin' very nice! Glad you body-shopped it

 

Looks perfect - you made the right call ss!

 

Good work! Now,.... it's time to replace your wife.

 

Clearly you know nothing about the American Legal System. Far cheaper to repair the bumper than get a new wife and give old one 50% of your stuff!