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Wheels: Center hub bore DIY tutorial

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27K views 17 replies 8 participants last post by  lotusdoom  
#1 · (Edited)
Some may have seen that I purchased a set of Midir wheels off a C30 R-Design for a steal. The center bore is slightly smaller. Like just around a 1/16-1/8 of an inch but in metric. Well, didn't want to pay a shop $300 so I got a 1/16 face inlay carpenter router bit from Amazon and routed myself.

I tested a cut on a small portion to see if my bit was set perfectly - starting shallow to deeper cuts.

I would recommend that you use a metric bit if you can find one. I couldn't. I would have gone with 1/32 bit looking back. But the way the bore actually gets smaller toward the front of the wheel for some reason it worked out. You have to eyeball a bit. Now it isn't perfect but the hole is perfectly centered. I can wiggle the wheel on the hub about a hair. But I figure that won't make any difference. Fingers crossed.

I recommend wearing a long sleeved shirt, pants, and gloves. I also wore shop glasses and used a heavy duty mask. The metal shards will go everywhere. So, vacuum right after.

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Bit set-
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A close-up.
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Money!

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#2 ·
Seems crazy to take a router to the things that attach the car to the road... I guess the lugs hold it on, so no big deal?
 
#3 ·
These are hubcentric wheels, meaning that the hub bore centers the wheels, while the lugs just hold it on. it's not easy to make the cut perfectly centered, and if it's even slightly off, then you'll have wobble issues. YMMV though. I would use a honing bit instead of a router if you're into DIY for this type of job.
 
#4 ·
I doubt a hair of movement prior to impact wrenching them on is going to make any difference. I really hope you are wrong. Will report back.

Edit: the cuts are perfectly centered.

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#5 ·
You mean put them on with a torque wrench, right? Over torqued lug nuts from an impact isn't a great idea either. I just can't imagine that boring the hole out and getting it "pretty good" is a great idea. Hope it works out okay.

Hiw did you perfectly center them?
 
#6 ·
Yes, torque. The router bit took off only 1/16 from the edge to expand the hole to fit onto the hub. I did some pretty intense calculations to make sure I was right (was a carpenter for 5 years... still am on my off time).
 
#7 ·
Good job this way does work but it's tedious and you gotta be very careful. As long as they are perfect centered you should be fine. I was gonna go this route but instead used a very large lathe in my friends machine shop.

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#8 · (Edited)
So, put these Midirs on and they are PERFECT. Ran them at 80 mph (edit: 100 mph) and no shaking at all. These tires are track tires and really stick. Gonna need some spacers as the offset sets them in more.
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#9 · (Edited)
Impressive DIY! Great looking wheels, glad it worked out for you. Looks fantastic on your car.
 
#10 ·
Thanks, loving the look. Back to winters soon though.


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#12 ·
Thank you. I hope this comes in handy for anyone looking to do this.


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#13 · (Edited)
I revived this thread since I have had numerous questions regarding how to do this. Dont waste your money: DIY.

First figure out the diffirence in bore sizes. Divide that in half and that would be the size rabbet/inlay bit (cutting length) you would need. Convert mm to inches. I have always gotten them within a 1/16th. You would need a router. I would just order a cheap one off ebay/amazon for like $30. Then figure out which bit you will need. These are great bits but are $30 each. And you will need a router that takes a 1/2 inch shank. So, make sure you order bits that fit your router.

Here are some resources:
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#14 ·
Any problem with these fitting over the R calipers? For your winter setup, do you use spacers to clear the calipers? If my math is correct looks like you'll need a 10mm spacer for the Orpheus wheels to clear the R calipers. (I'm about to do the same R brembo conversion)
 
#15 ·
You are correct. I need at least 10mm. I run 10mm in the front and 15mm in the back to even it out. No problem fitting over the R calipers with 10mm.

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