...
And on a personal note, thank you PAX5 very much for the technical guidance, support and encouragement to keep going despite the ridiculous heat today.

Your welcome!

You did this in about half the time it took me.

 

This pic is missing from above:

 

This pic is missing from above:

It's because of the way Google handles their image hosting. I rehosted the image on postimg and included it in the post above so it should now stay there "forever".

 

Great write up. Perfect timing as I'll be doing this soon!

 

Hi All,

Another successful serpentine belt job completed thanks to the above. Can't tell you how much I appreciate it!

A few (very slight) modifications to the above, if I may?

1.) after "Remove 10mm Nut Holding Power Steering Line Bracket to Tensioner", I went ahead and removed the power steering line bracket all together. It's just one additional nut, very easy to get on/off and adds a fair bit more wiggle room.
2.) for the 5/16" coolant line removal, I used the below parts to plug. The green "caps" are 5/16 "screw protectors" from home depot. Found in one of the hardware drawers next to the grade 8 bolts, etc. Fit like a glove...one paper towel was all I needed! The black cone is a plug out of the mighty-max vac/hand pump kit.

 

Hi All,

Another successful serpentine belt job completed thanks to the above. Can't tell you how much I appreciate it!

A few (very slight) modifications to the above, if I may?

1.) after "Remove 10mm Nut Holding Power Steering Line Bracket to Tensioner", I went ahead and removed the power steering line bracket all together. It's just one additional nut, very easy to get on/off and adds a fair bit more wiggle room.
2.) for the 5/16" coolant line removal, I used the below parts to plug. The green "caps" are 5/16 "screw protectors" from home depot. Found in one of the hardware drawers next to the grade 8 bolts, etc. Fit like a glove...one paper towel was all I needed! The black cone is a plug out of the mighty-max vac/hand pump kit.

Advice welcome!

So for that bracket, is it the nut that is just on the left side of my photo?

As for the plug, definitely don't do what I did. It was trash and leaked everywhere. PAX5 recommended shoving a bolt into the tubing that I used, then melting the tubing onto the bolt with a flame. That would definitely have been better than what I did!

 

Well I was going to do this job, but the power steering pump decided to give up the ghost.

So as much as I would have loved to do that job, I just didn't have the time to properly put the attention to it, given it requires e manifold to come off I'm pretty time poor these days.

So I took it down to my local trusted hydraulic service shop and got them to replace the pump , drivebelt, tensioner, idler pullies and also flush the transmission while they were at it.

It will be in the shop for the next couple of days while they wait for the part to arrive.

I've been quoted around $1900 (AUD) for the lot, which considering the pump itself costs 1200 alone over here (not fitted) i think that is pretty reasonable. I did supply the parts for the drive belt etc though as I had them already.

 

Correct, R Powered, its the nut right in the u-bend of the power steering line. At first I thought it was somehow keeping the power steering line together, but all that bolt does is attach the two halfs of the bracket that holds the PS line to the front of the tensioner.

 

Any recollection of what size nut that one was?

 

80% sure it was also 10mm, I can check sometime this week and reply.

 

Also, for what it's worth the idler pulley on the tensioner can be replaced (same part number as the other two). Confirmed by my dealer and my experience. Could be helpful if that pulley is worn but you don't want to replace the whole tensioner. The nut is reverse thread.

 

For those considering doing just rollers, guy by the name of OrleeC (see link http://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...d.php?286873-V8-Valve-Cover-Gasket-Replacement&p=4096617&viewfull=1#post4096617) may be able to replace just the bearings.

Will be good to keep the link above handy, as for a number of V8 owners the valve cover gasket job will be coming up.

 

Additional notes for Volvo S80 (2007)

Thanks for the pics and notes! A couple of extra items for any poor soul doing this work on an S80:

First, on my vehicle the lower pulley bolt could not be removed as the hole drilled in the side of the engine compartment was both offset and too small - good work Volvo!. Fix was to jack up the engine to get the alignment and use a hand file on the flange of the bolt so it would slip through.

Second, the engine mount is actually too close to the crankshaft pulley to allow the bolt to slip out! Fix again involved jacking up the engine after removing the four bolts for the engine mount.

Note to Volvo packaging engineers: Don't let me find you.

 

Great How-To write up.

One comment: if you are going to replace the belt, why not just cut it off? Then you don't have to worry about breaking the tensioner or buying the tool. The new tensioner comes pre-compressed.

Just a thought.

 

You still need to hold the tension off the tensioner to get the spring holder off, so I don't think it gets you out of buying the tool. I liked having the belt whole so I could transfer my marks from the old belt to the new belt. You might be able to cut it. It would certainly make it easier to remove.

Just did this to my 2008 over the weekend and its not as easy as it may seem by reading it.

It required quite a few tools and manuvering of brackets and hoses around to free up the old belt.

All and all took about 1hr to complete and I had to replace all 3 pulleys. They all had play in it.

There was no audible noise from them however the bolt was worn out and they did squeak on cold start up.

If you did it in an hour, you did it A LOT faster than I did. LOL

 

Just did this to my 2008 over the weekend and its not as easy as it may seem by reading it.

It required quite a few tools and manuvering of brackets and hoses around to free up the old belt.

All and all took about 1hr to complete and I had to replace all 3 pulleys. They all had play in it.

There was no audible noise from them however the bolt was worn out and they did squeak on cold start up.

 

150k mike belt original. Didn't look worn out but it did squeak when it was cold on start up and that could have been from the pulleys too.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Did the job last night with great success due to the write up! I replaced the tensioner and pulley, both idler pulleys, and the serpentine belt. I did it by myself and took about 4 hours and several bloody knuckles.

I have a couple comments/tips to add:

The bolt holding the grounding strap is a 10mm.
The second bolt on the PS/tensioner bracket is indeed a 10mm.
After using the 10mm Allen wrench to break the tensioner bolt loose, it was impossible to loosen by hand. So I cut a 1/2" length off of the Allen wrench (long end) and inserted it into the bolt, then attached a 10mm ratcheting box wrench on the other and removed the tensioner bolt with great ease. This was much easier than having to finagle the Allen wrench in and out at each quarter turn. Plus it provided amply clearance between the frame and tensioner.
I used the serpentine belt tool to remove the two idler pulleys. Since the tool has a fixed drive and doesn't ratchet, I found that a 12 point socket worked best.
I also substituted a 3/4" socket instead of the 19mm socket at the tensioner. Same size.
To put the new serpentine belt on, I jacked up the passenger's side, removed the front wheel and removed the plastic 10mm nuts holding the well covers on, making the lower pulleys all accessible.
Remember when putting the washers back on the pulleys that the concave side faces away from the bearings or the pulley will not spin freely.

Thanks R-Powered.

 

Did the job last night with great success due to the write up! I replaced the tensioner and pulley, both idler pulleys, and the serpentine belt. I did it by myself and took about 4 hours and several bloody knuckles.

I have a couple comments/tips to add:

The bolt holding the grounding strap is a 10mm.
The second bolt on the PS/tensioner bracket is indeed a 10mm.
After using the 10mm Allen wrench to break the tensioner bolt loose, it was impossible to loosen by hand. So I cut a 1/2" length off of the Allen wrench (long end) and inserted it into the bolt, then attached a 10mm ratcheting box wrench on the other and removed the tensioner bolt with great ease. This was much easier than having to finagle the Allen wrench in and out at each quarter turn. Plus it provided amply clearance between the frame and tensioner.
I used the serpentine belt tool to remove the two idler pulleys. Since the tool has a fixed drive and doesn't ratchet, I found that a 12 point socket worked best.
I also substituted a 3/4" socket instead of the 19mm socket at the tensioner. Same size.
To put the new serpentine belt on, I jacked up the passenger's side, removed the front wheel and removed the plastic 10mm nuts holding the well covers on, making the lower pulleys all accessible.
Remember when putting the washers back on the pulleys that the concave side faces away from the bearings or the pulley will not spin freely.

Thanks R-Powered.

I'm glad it was helpful and I definitely had busted knuckles, too! You also added some really great notes which I think I'll try and incorporate. In looking back, I used a 12 pt socket on the tensioner tool, but the friend who provided that photo from their doing the job obviously used a 6 pt. I would recommend the 12 pt for that application since it is so difficult to get the socket lined up otherwise. A ratcheting box wrench would have been a much better solution for the tensioner bolt. Great thinking!

 

Not sure if its mentioned anywhere as I only scanned this thread (needed some refresher pics before checking the pulley bearings--thanks for good pictures), but you absolutely can change just the idler bearings. I used SKF 6203 2ZJ, available at Napa, amazon, etc. 6203 is the size, 2Z is metal shields on both sides, you could also use 2RS, those are the rubber shielded ones. Just FYI to round out the info in case future DIY people would like to just press out the old since nothing really goes wrong with the pulleys themsleves.

 

That`s what I did, $8 a bearing instead of $45 a pulley

 

Dealer quoted $265 labor to do the belt and tensioners. Service advisor said to just replace the idler, not the whole tensioner. Three idlers, belt, and front motor mount are about $320 shipped from Tasca.

Did you have to remove the motor mount? It's another $120 to change the motor mount which is what was making the noise I brought it in for.

It's the 07 S80 V8, not the XC90 V8. 102k miles. Front end was groaning by shifting the weight of the chassis.

Thanks

 

Same problem with the bolt hole on the side of the engine compartment not lining up to be able to get the lower pulley bolt out 2007 S80 and also not being able to get the belt under the crankshaft pulley without lifting the engine. So for doing the belt on an S80 these instructions are more than somewhat lacking and will give a false sense of this being an easily peasy job.

 

I bought 3 of the 62032RS bearings to have them pressed in for the ‘08 when I did the alternator and belt. They were less than $4 each.

 

I bought 3 of the 62032RS bearings to have them pressed in for the '08 when I did the alternator and belt. They were less than $4 each.

I hope they weren`t Chinese bearings, you'll be back in there soon, at that price they would almost have to be. It`s easy enough to press them in yourself

 

Slightly off topic: Does anyone know if the timing cover on a S80 V8 can be replaced with the engine in the car? Asking for a friend

 

I suspect yes, but not without some help by a person with small but long arms, a bunch of space and a lot patience. Valve covers need to come off, all that gets done from the top.

Was a post somewhere in the XC90 forum in which a person who has done more than one of these before said it actually took less time to drop the engine and do the timing cover on the shop floor versus doing in the car. I believe it's probably true, especially on an S80.

There's an interesting thread over on the S80 side of the house- https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?482593-V8-Total-Disassembly with some visuals I have likely not seen before. Gives an idea as to what the engine looks like with timing and valve covers removed.

Your friend's mileage at the time of failure ? Might be an opportunity to do a whole bunch of proactive things while it's out- pads, alternator, could even reseal and/or re-sleeve the angle gear with new grease and new gear oil. Whole bunch of cost effective things you can do with the powertrain dropped.

 

I am pretty sure you can as FCP sells a reseal kit for the timing cover for those who just have leaks.

 

Ouch. I believe it’s possible, but really tight on room.

 

A few days ago I was hearing some chatter/ squeaking noises coming from passenger side. Then... belt came off close to home on way back from Napa. Once home, I found one whole idler pulley bearing with no balls left inside the bearing races! the other two pulleys were wobbly feeling. so I bought 3 of the part number listed and pressed out old and pressed in new. I am thankful for this post as it helped me solve and fix my issue quickly. wasnt hard. side note: put the serpentine belt on the tensioner last when replacing the belt it's easiest IMO.

*2007 Volvo XC90 V8*

 

A few days ago I was hearing some chatter/ squeaking noises coming from passenger side. Then... belt came off close to home on way back from Napa. Once home, I found one whole idler pulley bearing with no balls left inside the bearing races! the other two pulleys were wobbly feeling. so I bought 3 of the part number listed and pressed out old and pressed in new. I am thankful for this post as it helped me solve and fix my issue quickly. wasnt hard. side note: put the serpentine belt on the tensioner last when replacing the belt it's easiest IMO.

*2007 Volvo XC90 V8*

I had the exact same issue with my replacement bearings. The new bearings i put in didn't fit in snugly. the bearing pulley had stretched out.I ended up replacing all 3 with OEM

 

For those attempting this on an S80, here`s a big issue. Trying to shove a 3mm wide belt through a 1mm slot on to the crankshaft pulley. The other issue is the lowest tension pulley out of the three has a relief hole in the inner fender drilled in the wrong place so the bolt and pulley cannot be removed without cutting the bolt. View attachment 46045

 

Thommykent, could you re-upload that attachment? It is not working for me unfortunately. This is on my list of projects on my S80 (143k miles now so I'm running towards the replacement interval), and would love to have some visuals on this to compare to mine before I start.

 

PM me please and I'll figure out how to get the photos over and I'll host on my share and send the link.

Could also cross-post over on MVS, they have a great attachment interface, can place pictures in line on the posts no less.

This is my biggest criticism with Swedespeed, likely intentional to save some money on site hosting, and improve revenue. We get to hold the bag.