[nicksut]

Thanks for the input. Much appreciated.

 

[SJMarley]

Answer is yes.

Also I should mention my experience on my XC90 2017 T6, no heat shield removal required for Replacing the front (before cat) O2 sensor.
No need to remove belly pan cover as the sensor can be reached with long skinny arms and long fingers with no rings on any finger….lol.
Once you brake the sensor loose, unplug the sensor above in engine compartment and then completely unscrew the sensor.
Then I got new sensor and enclosed it in the plastic bag it came in with an elastic band to keep it clean as I lowered it from top of engine compartment to the exhaust area once down, I plugged the sensor in and went underneath car again to install the sensor hand turned it a few turns and the went up a above again to unplug the sensor and completed the install below.
I used the stubby sensor socket with a ratchet to do the loosening and final tightening of the sensor.

View attachment 166767
View attachment 166768

Could you provide some insight as to how you found and got to passenger sensor. What am I looking for?
Thanks

 

[rgorbie]

Could you provide some insight as to how you found and got to passenger sensor. What am I looking for?
Thanks

Same here, I'd like to know a bit more on passw ger side location and access. Just got back from Volvo dealer this eve, paid $200 to have my check engine light diagnosed on our 2016 XC90 T8 Inscription, they told me it was the front heated oxygen sensor, part number 32253664. $790 to replace. I declined. I did pay $1300 though to have the 3g modem upgraded to 4g. Things I do for my wife

 

[Nerd23]

Could you provide some insight as to how you found and got to passenger sensor. What am I looking for?
Thanks

Same here, I'd like to know a bit more on passw ger side location and access. Just got back from Volvo dealer this eve, paid $200 to have my check engine light diagnosed on our 2016 XC90 T8 Inscription, they told me it was the front heated oxygen sensor, part number 32253664. $790 to replace. I declined. I did pay $1300 though to have the 3g modem upgraded to 4g. Things I do for my wife

Guys with all these pictures and details and still you aren't able to this job on your own!!!

Sent from my YAL-L21 using Tapatalk

 

[439348217]

Just wanted to add, I completed this on my XC90 T6 AWD. Volvo wanted over $900. I only replaced the downstream O2 sensor and after a few trips the CEL went away.

Couple of things I would add.

• I have pretty long arms but even I found it difficult to reach, you have to feel for it. The upstream sensor is easier.
• I only replaced the downstream sensor and it fixed it, but it's probably a good idea to do both.
• Start Stop was malfunctioning (giving an error) but this went away after two trips.
• The offset O2 sensor someone recommended above wouldn't fit for my downstream sensor so I had to find a fairly short 22mm wrench.
• Had to lever the plastic clip holding in the plug using quite a bit of force.
• Definitely doable with basic tools and very basic mechanical knowledge.

 

[GeneralPatent]

Thanks for all the info here. I felt confident enough to give it a go to get rid of a CEL and P0171 code. Got the car up on ramps, took the cover off, and stared at the upstream (passenger side) plug for 5 minutes wondering how my not-long or skinny arm was gonna get up there to reach it. It might be easier if it was up on a lift. Anyway, I took a break and changed my oil while the cover was off (after a Liquid Moly engine flush, in case that might help clear the code too), and spilled oil everywhere. I loved that long piece of cardboard I was laying on. Oh well. I'm going to give it another shot. One question I have is that the last step @Nerd23 stated was holding the reset button down for 5 seconds. What reset button would that be? Also, did you clear the code with an OBD or did it just clear up?

 

[439348217]

Thanks for all the info here. I felt confident enough to give it a go to get rid of a CEL and P0171 code. Got the car up on ramps, took the cover off, and stared at the upstream (passenger side) plug for 5 minutes wondering how my not-long or skinny arm was gonna get up there to reach it. It might be easier if it was up on a lift. Anyway, I took a break and changed my oil while the cover was off (after a Liquid Moly engine flush, in case that might help clear the code too), and spilled oil everywhere. I loved that long piece of cardboard I was laying on. Oh well. I'm going to give it another shot. One question I have is that the last step @Nerd23 stated was holding the reset button down for 5 seconds. What reset button would that be? Also, did you clear the code with an OBD or did it just clear up?

Which sensor are you replacing, or are you doing both? I did the downstream (driver side and harder to reach) which fixed it. I gave up on my first attempt. On the second attempt I basically just did it 90% by feel and it wasn't actually that bad, just make sure the exhaust is completely cold.

I think he's talking about the trip reset on the end of the left hand stock.

The code cleared for me after a while as my OBD reader wouldn't reset it (I think less than 48 hours). I've probably driven 3000 miles since and it's remained cleared.

 

[Nerd23]

Thanks for all the info here. I felt confident enough to give it a go to get rid of a CEL and P0171 code. Got the car up on ramps, took the cover off, and stared at the upstream (passenger side) plug for 5 minutes wondering how my not-long or skinny arm was gonna get up there to reach it. It might be easier if it was up on a lift. Anyway, I took a break and changed my oil while the cover was off (after a Liquid Moly engine flush, in case that might help clear the code too), and spilled oil everywhere. I loved that long piece of cardboard I was laying on. Oh well. I'm going to give it another shot. One question I have is that the last step @Nerd23 stated was holding the reset button down for 5 seconds. What reset button would that be? Also, did you clear the code with an OBD or did it just clear up?

Yes exactly it's the trip stick. This will reset the mpg data.



I would agree the place is pretty tight and you can barely see the whole work. You will need to rely on feel to complete the job.



You can try VDash or Orbit to reset the codes. You will need a VOE cable for $20 ish and download the software. I doubt generic OBD ELM327 will be able to reset.

Sent from my YAL-L21 using Tapatalk

 

[GeneralPatent]

Yes exactly it's the trip stick. This will reset the mpg data. I would agree the place is pretty tight and you can barely see the whole work. You will need to rely on feel to complete the job. You can try VDash or Orbit to reset the codes. You will need a VOE cable for $20 ish and download the software. I doubt generic OBD ELM327 will be able to reset. Sent from my YAL-L21 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the confirmation. I’ll give it another go. One other thing - on my OBD (cheap Bluetooth thing) the voltage reading for the upstream O2 sensor stays at zero. The downstream on has a consistent positive reading. Is this just confirming the upstream sensor might be bad?

 

[Nerd23]

Thanks for the confirmation. I’ll give it another go. One other thing - on my OBD (cheap Bluetooth thing) the voltage reading for the upstream O2 sensor stays at zero. The downstream on has a consistent positive reading. Is this just confirming the upstream sensor might be bad?

Voltage wise I have no clue...

However, the upstream O2 sensor is what usually fail early. The upstream/bank 1 is on the right side (passanger side) closer to the turbo connection.

What code do you have on your OBD?

It's always recommend to replace both together. You can get them cheap if you ordered the Denso branded ones. They are almost identical and almost 60% of the OEM price.

 

[GeneralPatent]

Voltage wise I have no clue...

However, the upstream O2 sensor is what usually fail early. The upstream/bank 1 is on the right side (passanger side) closer to the turbo connection.

What code do you have on your OBD?

It's always recommend to replace both together. You can get them cheap if you ordered the Denso branded ones. They are almost identical and almost 60% of the OEM price.

I have had a persistent P0171 for months. I brought it in and the dealership told me they also got a misfire code (which didn’t show up on my OBD), and that on top of a new O2 sensor I would also need to replace the fuel injectors which might be clogged. I wasn’t keen on spending $2700 without trying a long-shot off the shelf fuel system cleaner to see if that would clear the code. It didn’t, but it led me to try other non-$2700 solutions such as cleaning the MAF sensor (with appropriate product) and looking at the vacuum hoses for anything obvious.

Which leads me to this option. I already have the Denso upstream sensor in-hand (frustoconical front), as well as the slotted socket tool to change it out. Now it sounds like I just need to see how far my arm goes. I would try to do both but taking the heat shield off to get to the downstream seems like a whole other level of hell needing two arms up there.

 

[Wayne T5]

How many miles on your car?

 

[Nerd23]

I have had a persistent P0171 for months. I brought it in and the dealership told me they also got a misfire code (which didn’t show up on my OBD), and that on top of a new O2 sensor I would also need to replace the fuel injectors which might be clogged. I wasn’t keen on spending $2700 without trying a long-shot off the shelf fuel system cleaner to see if that would clear the code. It didn’t, but it led me to try other non-$2700 solutions such as cleaning the MAF sensor (with appropriate product) and looking at the vacuum hoses for anything obvious.

Which leads me to this option. I already have the Denso upstream sensor in-hand (frustoconical front), as well as the slotted socket tool to change it out. Now it sounds like I just need to see how far my arm goes. I would try to do both but taking the heat shield off to get to the downstream seems like a whole other level of hell needing two arms up there.

P0171 code is common for a faulty O2 sensor. So, replacing the O2 sensor (passanger side one) might solve the issue.

My guess the misfire could be happening because of the faulty O2 sensor (unmatched air/fuel ratio).

I use MAF cleaner and injector cleaner on my S90 periodically without issues.

I use CRC MAF cleaner and Liqui Moly Injection Cleaner (added to the fuel). MPG improve.

If the above failed, do a smoke test and check for any leaks.

Sent from my YAL-L21 using Tapatalk

 

[mamba42]

My p0171 code came back today, so it looks like the PVC didn't solve this for me (they replaced that under warranty). So now I'll go ahead and replace my O2 sensors. Thanks for the write up!

 

[bencrabtree27]

Reviving an oldie. Maybe @Tech can 100% confirm. I just pulled two from VDASH (bank 1, sensor 2). Forum says upstream passenger side, FCP says downstream... Volvo just says front.... I'll just do the two, but for the future. What side is what side?

 

[439348217]

Left (driver side) is downstream, right (passenger side) is upstream. I replaced my downstream (the one that looks more like a cylinder than a point) and it fixed my CEL. It's not too bad, just make sure the car is completely cold as you'll be hugging the exhaust.

 

[439348217]

I have had a persistent P0171 for months. I brought it in and the dealership told me they also got a misfire code (which didn’t show up on my OBD), and that on top of a new O2 sensor I would also need to replace the fuel injectors which might be clogged. I wasn’t keen on spending $2700 without trying a long-shot off the shelf fuel system cleaner to see if that would clear the code. It didn’t, but it led me to try other non-$2700 solutions such as cleaning the MAF sensor (with appropriate product) and looking at the vacuum hoses for anything obvious.

Which leads me to this option. I already have the Denso upstream sensor in-hand (frustoconical front), as well as the slotted socket tool to change it out. Now it sounds like I just need to see how far my arm goes. I would try to do both but taking the heat shield off to get to the downstream seems like a whole other level of hell needing two arms up there.

I actually thought removing the heat shield was easy. I only replaced the downstream sensor and it fixed my issue. Just make sure it's totally cold and go under the vehicle from the front so you're hugging the exhaust. I got the slotted socket tool and it wouldn't fit so I used a short 22mm (if I remember correctly I could be wrong) and it worked fine.

 

[bencrabtree27]

Do you remember your code or what bank/sensor it pulled?

 

[439348217]

Do you remember your code or what bank/sensor it pulled?

I don’t I’m afraid.

 

[Neve]

I'm having trouble figuring out the correct part numbers for my late 2016 XC90 T5 AWD

FCP Euro has 32253664 (32253664, 31380995) "Oxygen Sensor (Front). HEATED OXYGEN SENS"
and 32253665 (32253665, 31431005, 31422419, 31422419) "Oxygen Sensor (Front). HEATED OXYGEN SENS"
usparts.volvocars.com has this as well labeled "Variant code: CC01. front. "
and also has 32253666 "Variant code: CC02. front. CH 40932-. "
I put in my VIN and it also spit out 32253663 "Variant code: CC02. front. CH 40932-."

Since my chassis number is 067949 I guess I should use the CC02 variant?

Looking at Denso equivalents for my "XC90 II (256), T5 AWD, 183kW(249ps), B 4204 T23", There are two front sensor options:
DOX-0535 (Volvo 31293686 31319385 31319664 31370197 31370666 31422059 31422419 31431005 31480460)
and
DOX-0597 (Volvo 31439480 31439593 31439621 32253663 32253666 8890651502)

There is amazing variation in price on these from €87.12 to $324.62 but I don't want to buy the wrong thing.