Great post thanks for sharing. The evap canister charcoal media will break up and block up the canister as describe above. We call #9 the sweet Potatoe filter.
All P3 Volvo's has this setup. You have to replace both #1 and #9 or modify #9 as described above.
As gas goes into the tank, air escapes out thru #10, #1, #24, #9, #22, #21, #11, #14, #15.

9 Canister 1.00 31338102

 

I'd be concerned about the steel wool rusting. They do make a similar copper product and a stainless steel product.
Was that your idea to use it?

 

I'm not real concerned about rust because I don't think the steel wool is going to get wet in that sealed system. If it would happen to draw moisture it would be from the petroleum.

I do like your idea about using stainless.

I'm may run it a year and take it off and reopen it to see if there is any kind of rust or contamination in it.

 

Redacted

 

congratulations now you have an unsealed charcoal canister, get ready for more evap leak codes....plastic welds or not.

Why would you say it is unsealed? After I plastic welded it I pressure tested with no leaks. I put it on the car I have no evap codes coming up, I have no check engine lights, and on the scan tool that evap purge is working exactly as it should work.

 

yep. good for us olders. I do that kinda self repair stuff all the time and have saved lots of money.
inteller's probably a younger who doesn't understand common sense.
I don't know if my 2012 S60 has this component but if it does and this issue pops up, I now know how to fix it myself.

 

Hi. Thanks for detailing your repair. I have a 2017 V60 that I suspect needs this same repair. Could you tell me where on the car that canister is located?

 

Mine was in the center rear on the frame where the rear control arms bolt to the frame on my 2016 S80

 

Canister is on top of the rear axle area. It looks too easy to remove.
I do like the above repair. Charcoal media/dust could get past the repaired #9 and block up the close valve in #21 LDP. If this happens, it will set an evap code. #21 close valve is normally open to let tank air out as gas goes in. See above post about how LDP #21 works.
If you do decide to replace #1 canister that caused the problem, there is FWD and AWD.
Order any parts with your VIN not these parts pics.

 

I had asked this question else where but will try here. On the V60 HOW do you get those filters out? Do you have to drop the rear end of the car? The sit in a rack on top of the rear suspension and I am not sure there is enough clearance to remove them without separating the rear end suspension from the body of the car.

 

Thank you for the information and the details. As I am under this car (2017 v60cc) now, I do not see the depicted canister (sweet potato) anywhere under the rear of this car.
I do see the rectangle shape canister above the rear differential and appearing nearly impossible to remove (if you needed to). I also see the small black and white pump in the same general area.
I have the rear passenger wheel off and the inner fender removed, I find the small atmospheric vent located there, but nothing else.
At this point, I don’t know for sure I even need to replace the part, was mostly trying to lay eyes on it for now.

thanks for the help

 

just a comment, you should be able to follow the hose from the charcoal canister to the sweet potato canister?

 

I agree, but no. Because of how everything is tucked away up above the suspension subframe and diff, tracing the lines isn’t as straightforward as the exploded diagram would indicate. A canister that size should be easy enough to see, but man, I have looked from all angles and don’t see.

thanks to all who have helped on this, I will post again when I get it resolved.

 

How did you make out on this? I’m in the same boat 2015 XC 60, so far have cleaned just the filter which is open to atmosphere and seem to flow freely.

 

Any water vapor

I'll start at the beginning in case anyone else is interested in trying this.

My car would not take gas fast at all you basically had to trickle it in. Checked everything out found out the charcoal canister was bad while changing out charcoal canister decided to check the vapor canister. Air would not go through the vapor canister at all it was plugged up with the deteriorated charcoal. I checked local parts stores and my nearest dealer is about an hour and a half away and the part with shipping would have set me back about 300 bucks .

so...... I decided I would cut it open and see what makes it tick. ( Make a mark or two so it is easy to line back up when you put it back together. )

When I opened it up I found real fine grid work that reminded me of the honeycomb inside a catalytic converter. It was all full of dirty broken up charcoal that came through from the charcoal canister.

1 I removed all the grid work cleaned it out real well.
2 I found another piece of plastic pipe that I was able to fit snug inside of the vapor canister.
3 I cut it to length.
4 I then took some metal window screen cut it and secured it to one end of the pipe I cut.
5 For the next step I took some steel wool and loosely filled the tube so it was packed semi tight NOT packed in super firm.
6 Then I cut another piece of metal window screen secured it to the other end of the pipe.
7 I gave the entire pipe a wrap of heavy shop tape being sure not to cover the ends of the screen.
8Then I stuck the pipe inside of the vapor canister and slid the other end of the vapor canister on lining up my marks and pushing it tightly together.
9 I then plastic welded where I cut it open at. I checked to make sure it would hold pressure with no leaks.

So for about 45 minutes to an hour of my time I save probably $300 or more.

Hopefully some of you might find this useful and helpful.

Any water vapor held n the canister will make the steel wool rust. Do you think that could be a problem here??

 

Could someone explain to me what is exact role of canister nr 9? Canister nr 1 it's clear, it's filled with charcoal and is filtering vapors, but filter nr 9? What is inside of this canister? Only wool? Did anyone try to remove everything from canister nr 9 and install it? Would it give evap related errors? Does anyone know how evap system calculates pressure in the system? Are all filters needed, or maybe system only needs to be properly sealed? Sorry for so many questions

 

I do not know the function of #9. It is a filter that stops broken charcoal media from #1 from getting into LDP #21 and into the evap hoses. During EVAP testing, LDP pumps pressure into the tank, EVAP, hose system. ECM monitors LDP ma draw. If LDP ma draw is within spec, system passes.
Below ma spec, large leak, or test runs too long, small leak, an EVAP code will be populated.
If anyone is interested, I did add PDF files about Engine control/Design function/EVAP diag.

Leak diagnostic unit

The function of the leak diagnostic unit is to pressurize the fuel tank system during leak diagnostics and to open the fuel tank system to the surrounding air during evaporative emissions control.
The leak diagnostic unit consists of a plastic housing with:
electrical air pump
a valve / solenoid which governs the air flow in the unit
a heater element (PTC resistor) which warms up the pump.
The electrical pump, valve and heater element in the unit are supplied with voltage by the system relay. The pump, valve and heater element are grounded (control) in the engine control module (ECM).
During leak diagnostics the pump in the leak diagnostic unit starts. The valve in the unit is operated by the engine control module (ECM) by grounding the different circuits internally in the engine control module (ECM). Operation depends on whether the diagnostic phase is checking for leakage or checking the function of the diagnostic system. The engine control module (ECM) gauges the power consumption of the pump during pressurization. The power consumption corresponds to a certain pressure in the fuel tank system. See also: Leak diagnostics (certain markets only)
The engine control module (ECM) can diagnose the leak diagnostic unit.
The valve in the leak diagnostic unit can be activated and the power consumption of the pump can be read off.
The leak diagnostic unit is at the upper front edge of the fuel tank.

 

Thank You, it's already very helpfull, especially EVAP leak diagnostic file which explains what exactly happens during check cycle. Canister nr 9 sure it stops charcoal from getting to pump BUT i doubt it was designed function of it. I assume it was not planned that charcoal will get out of evap canister. But who knows these days, maybe they planned to make extra $$ replacing these canisters I'm planning to get rid of insides of canister nr 9, we will see if it will work fine or i will receive errors.

 

So i finally removed canister nr 9 and opened it. Inside it looks like catalytic converter - there is round cartridge inside this canister. On one end - that goes to pump there is also some kind of thin filter made of some kind of fabric - like air filter - and this was totally clogged - full black so it was almost impossible to push air through this canister. BUT one thing that surprised me, this thin filter was totally black on one side - normally filters are always getting dirty on side where air comes in, they filter it and clean air goes to the other side. BUT this filter was/is dirty on side that goes to leak pump. How is that possible? How is dirty air getting to this canister from leak pump side? Other side of this filter that is directed to charcoal canister is clean.

 

EVAP test runs after hours. It could be 2 am. EVAP test closes the front valve at intake manifold.
EVAP pump pumps air into the fuel tank system. ECM monitors pump motor ma draw to determine if any leaks in the fuel system. EVAP pump motor draws outside air in to pressurize the tank system.
Over the years of testing dusty outside air was drawn in thru #15 and stopped by that filter inside of #9.

 

Ahhh i see.... i thought nr 15 is also some kind of air filter... guess not but i'm not so determined to take it out and check what's inside. But it looks that canister nr 9 i just an extra filter that can cause trouble, but having it even empty should not cause any real issues. I saw that earlier version on EVAP system in earlier models didn't have it, and it looks that even a bit of dirt in the air going through leak pump won't damage it.

 

My 2015.5 xc60 does not have Number 9. I cleared off number 15 so I’m gonna go after number one this spring when the weather clears, probably butcher it just to see what’s going on in there. It’s an expensive part so I might try to just clean it, refill it and put it back into service, don’t laugh it can happen! 10-year-old cars with 210,000 miles on them are fixed very frugally. In fact, I’ve toyed with the idea of making another vent system for it someplace, like running another hose with a cap on it. That I could open up as I am fueling it and then close it up again. That’s how desperate I am to get gas in the car. It’s nearly impossible to get gas in my car at the moment. it’s not throwing any codes.

 

Number 15 is it regular air filter? Can it be normally opened and cleaned? If You don't have nr 9 and have fueling problems then it's nr 1 unfortunatelly. Inside it's just charcoal pellet so You can cut it open and fill in with new charcoal, it will cost You like 10% of what You would have to pay for new canister. There is nothing to laugh about, this whole system, so complex with so expensive parts just to catch some fuel vapours is a complete nonsense...

 

No. 15 is just a simple screen filter. I took it off, flushed it a little bit with some cleaner and verified that air went easily through it and put it back on. It is not meant to be opened and cleaned. I’m sure just replaced. it obviously was not the problem. Good to get confirmation on just opening up and refilling the charcoal canister because that is what I am planning to do.

 

Hello! I have a Volvo S60 2017 T3 and when I want to fill up my car the gas pump keeps shutting off. I went to two mechanics (one that repairs only volvo cars and another one that repairs multi-label cars).

I want to mention that the car doesn't have any check light or error code at electronic tester.

The first guy told me that I have to change only the Vapor Canister (no. 1 in the above scheme) and the another one told me that I have to change only the final filter (no. 15 in the above scheme).

When I was to the second mechanic, he told me that somehow he cleaned that filter with compressed air and for two month the problem disappeared, following that he helped me order that filter but I did not change it, yet.

I don't know what to do now. Should I order the Vapor Canister (I am not very happy with this version because it costs 300 euro) or should I change only that final filter (no. 15).

Thank you in advance.

 

Charcoal canister or vapor canister? So many different little bits depending on what year you have, I’m still living with my issue , but I’m gonna gut out my charcoal canister soon, I don’t have a vapor canister, but I do have a filter. I think it’s called, that was completely clean. 2015.5 T5. The charcoal canister on mine is over 300 bucks so no, I will not be buying one unless push comes to show.

 

no.1 - I think it's called charcoal canister and no. 9 is the vapor canister. The mechanic from volvo called it vapor canister. But in the chart they show me that i need no.1 item.

 

My set up doesn’t have number 19 I cleaned out number nine, but I’m gonna go after number two. Number 2, which is the charcoal canister itself is buried underneath the subframe on my XC 60 so it’s kind of a pain. That’s the one that cost 300 bucks or more. I plan on cutting it open and repacking it myself. I’m lucky I don’t take long trips with my car so I won’t have to fuel it but once a month because it’s a nightmare putting gas in the thing.

 

I said that wrong, it’s number nine I don’t have it’s number 19 that I cleaned.