will find you one. YouTube space on v90s or Volvos but ill send you a general guidance later tonight.

 

Can you send that info my way too? I started and ended up pulling the rear cord along the bottom of the dooes, but I think it might be too short now. Also wondering about power, I have some adaptors for the fuses, but I haven’t figured out the power and switched power.
I think there’s a video showing the front install for a xc90 on YouTube that’s similar to ours.

 

The v90 has four pillars not three. A, b, c, d.

I have made a correction to my guide. I believe the B and C pillar you can simply feed the cable through the metal clip that sits below the curtain and above the seatbelts. Similar to my diahram

It will actually be the D-pillar that you need to remove the trim and Route behind the airbag to exit out to the rear hatch.

The only difference between routing along the floor boards in a routing along the headliner will be that you don't have to remove The Grommet and run the cable behind the curtain at top however that is not difficult to do. Running along the floorboards requires far more work for very little gain.

 

Wow nice instructions. This is exactly what I did for my V60 and took me 5 hours lol Shouldn’t take this long if you are experienced.

 

It's not a quick process and I've done this on several sedans. Usually 4 hrs or more to remove necessary trim pieces and get cables neatly tucked, hidden, and routed properly.

Not to mention the need to test fuses and find one that is appropriate. And on more than one occasion I've still had to go back and change fuses because the manuals fail to mention all items tied to a given fuse due to Canbus

On my S60, I tapped the 12v console for Acc (ignition) only to find the camera kept turning itself on when I locked doors and enabled alarm. No mention what so ever of Alarm tied to 12v console, but sure enough the two were linked somehow.

Similar on a Honda civic I did for a family member. Fuse didn't mention the infotainment / radio, but the radio kept getting interference. Swapped fuses and works fine now.

 

Great thread. I had to reroute the wire from my front dash cam. This video (although UK or Australian specs) helped me specifically to remove the A pillar and dash side and door frame panel in my V90CC so I could avoid the airbag.
watch
My rear dash cam didn't require a cable to the front dash cam as they sync on my phone wirelessly if I want a dual feed video download. I use Garmin Dash cam mini for the rear (plugged into the rear cargo socket) and a Garmin Dash Cam 57 for the front (plugged into one of the center console USB ports).

 

Hi @AeroDan,

That video is helpful only in removing the A-Pillar itself. The rest of the information isn't accurate for an American Model Vehicle. Fuse Box is under the Front Passenger Glovebox. So everything else with the Aussie Spec isn't applicable.

FYI: There's nothing inherently wrong with using two individual camera systems. It just means two separate feeds, offers a far less clean install (needing to either use the rear 12V Socket, Battery, or run a wire to the fuse box for hardwire), and a higher chance you won't know of a failure in the rear cam. With a Front + Rear combination, if the camera isn't recording, you know something is wrong. With two individual cameras, it's less likely you are checking the rear camera on any regular basis. So you might find that it has malfunction (sd card error, hardware issue, etc), and never even know until it missed an event you truly needed.

2021 VOLVO V90 MANUAL (FUSE BOX) - FRONT PASSENGER
(V90 has a weird fuse box) - A lot of the "Benign Fuses" are in the Trunk!!

On my S60 I tapped into the Power Driver's Seat for Battery (Always On) Fuse: Not an option on the V90... It's in the Trunk

Unfortunately, I cannot recommend a fuse for the Battery (Always ON). Power Seats is usually the best one. But that's located in the trunk fuse box.

Avoid Modules, Infotainment, Electronics......

Here's a fuse to check on whether they remain ALWAYS active when the car is shut off. You can use a LED light tester or a Voltage meter to test the fuse if it's active with car off.

Fuse #26 - Passenger Compartment Lighting.

On my S60 I tapped into Heated Seats (ACC) - Fuse Activated by Car's Ignition.

Fuses 46 / 47 are ACC (Accessory / Ignition) for Heated Seats

I can't promise these fuses will be 100% due to Canbus Story above, but they appear to not have any other systems tied to them.

 

What's a cleaner install than not having to run a wire the length of your car to connect two cams?

 

The drawback here is you don't have the capability to monitor if the rear cam malfunctions. With a two channel (front + rear setup), you can easily see if the other cam isn't working.

That being said, you still have to run the wire to a 12V socket, battery pack, or a fuse box. So if you aren't hiding the cables (properly and without obstructing the airbag), then you've got cords dangling around your car.

 

I'd recommend running the cable down from the right side of the dash, along the floor, up along the right side of the trunk then up to the trunk lid. That's what I did. I have a blackview 2 channel. Just pop off the lower trim along the door opening, much easier than dealing with air bags

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk

 

You still have to mount camera on front windshield and rear glass. There's zero way you're hardwiring and getting cable to floor without removing the A-Pillar.

And you still cannot circumvent removing D pillar as you need that wire to go to hatch without dangling.

Whatever shortcut you took is bound to be an improperly install.

 

@kartboy1234

Your install is completely wrong....The reason to run the wire through the Grommet? Every time you open and close your hatch, that cord is flexing....What happens to a cord that flexes? It develops shorts...

You're free to do as you wish, but that install is not something I'd be bragging about or recommending.

 

Lol so what's your problem?

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk

 

FYI:

Just to give a bit of perspective here:

1. Your hardwire will follow the path of image #1 putting cable in the headliner until reaching the A-Pillar. And then you will of course need to remove the Kick Sill (image #2) and A-Pillar Trim (Image #3) to handle cable management by removing weather stripping hiding cable there. Note: You MUST remove the A-Pillar and route cable BEHIND the curtain to reach the floorboard / fuse box. Per the above, you cannot safely tuck the wire without crossing the curtain and obstructing deployment!!

Image #2

Image #3

 

Image of Top Headliner Install (simply tuck it into area where weatherstripping sits) and behind the side curtain. Be sure sure not to catch the side curtain with the wire when routing behind. - This method is pretty easy.

Floor Method. - You avoid the headliner but I believe you'll need to remove the B-Pillar Trim to route the wire competely along floor. Now, you could hit the B-Pillar, go up weather stripping, and feed cable through the weather stripping (making sure to avoid the seatbelt / curtain - think there's metal clip you can feed through. At least on my S60). Then follow the weather stripping back down to the floor on C Pillar. And then feeding cable up the weather stripping to D-Pillar.

I'm not sure if to remove the weather stripping to get to D Pillar requires anything special.

This is my BEST GUESTIMATE DIAGRAM......If you own a V90 and this is wrong, please let me know. Circles indicate = removal of B-Pillar to feed along floor or indicates to feed in gap between weather stripping to feed through pillar (avoiding curtain and seatbelt).