I think if you remove the fusepanel and glovebox, you will have access.
These are in swedish but a picture often speak volume
Fusebox pdf: http://aarnes.me/c30/el.pdf
Glovebox pdf: http://aarnes.me/c30/handsfack.pdf
AC fan pdf: http://aarnes.me/c30/vifte.pdf

These pdf`s are for the C30 but should be pretty much the same on the V50..
Never done this myself but hopefully the pdf`s is of help.

 

Not important for the fan but, the fusebox pdf states something interesting.
It says if multiple electric control units needs to be replaced, only one unit should be replaced at a time. Most importantly, a software download should then be done in between every component change.

It also states that you should (must) disconnect the battery before removing fusebox. Kind of goes without saying..

 

Welcome to Swedespeed, tozito.

If you wish we can translate the Swedish PDFs into your language of choice.

George Dill

 

thank you both. I now understand how to do it!
I will get to work next week and let you know about it, right now it has another job being done: water pump + timing belt kit (with only 100.000km!)

Best Regards

 

Hi tozito !

Did you have made the work ? It was "simple" the dismounting of fan ? Do you have the "T special tools" 999 7115 ?
I have the same problem :-( :-(

Michele - V50 2.0d - Italy

 

hi all.
I did not have the time to it until now and only today I got my hands on this... this will not be an easy job, I will try to take pictures to help others (if I manage to get it done! )
@ghianda: did you manage do it on your car?

 

I finally did it!
I must say it's not an easy job... and surelly not for everyone!
I will post soon step by step pictures to do the job. Also for the Fan I will try to repair it, not replace it. In fact after analysing the fan, it has an electonic board for speed control. Mine has the power output transistors burned (really burned!). I just ordered them (stronger ones) and hoppefuly it will work. If it does I will post everything here to help anyone who need.

 

ok, time is not on my side, but I hope this thread will be clear... If anything's missing or not clear please let me know.
For the job, there is no easy way, you will really have to work on both sides (driver+passenger); for reference my V50 is a LHD auto box...
So here is the big pictures; everything you have to disassemble:


Before anything else I strongly advice to disconnect battery cables!

Beginning from the left side (my driver side) and in order to get a cleaner access I disassemble the accelerator + brake pedals (I do not have the clutch pedal...)
But first you have to take the panel under the steering wheel off; it has only one T25 screw on the upper left corner and 2 on the bottom close to the pedals. You will also have to remove this small panel on both sides:


After removing this small side panel and the one under the steering wheel, you can take the accelerator panel out(3 bolts+connector) and the brake pedal (5 bolts + connector) out. For the brake pedal the job will start to be a little more difficult as 4 bolts are easy to get, but the 5th (upper one) will be a more difficult job


After taking the pedals off, I took the opportunity to exchange the pollen filter. You just have to take its box cover off and replace with new filter (after buying it of course )


Ok, now let's work on the passenger side.
You will have to take the glove box off and everything that is behind and below it...
To do that you will have to take the small center panel behind the radio/climate control off:

Let's start with glove BOX. Open it and you have 3 screw (T25) on the upper part like this one:
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/3549/t3cj.jpg

Below the GPS DVD reader (if you have it) you have a rubber mat; take it off


and you will see 2 more screws (T25) like this:


You will now be able to take the glove box out and you will see the next picture where you can unscrew the 4xT25 indicated:


Ok, it's now easy to take the DVD player out, be careful with the connectors/cables on the back, there are some optical fiber ones!


Above the DVD player and below the airbag you will see an ECU (can't remember for what... ), unscrew 2 bolts indicated below and take it out (be careful with cable/connectors on the back):


Now it's time to go below the glove BOX's placement, you will see this fuse panel/box:


take it out by following those instructions: http://aarnes.me/c30/el.pdf (better than my pictures )
Once you disconnect all connectors on it, you can take it out (remember: battery cables disconected!!).

Ok, now the way is cleared to take the inside/outside air intake box off:


and again better than my pictures here are instructions: http://aarnes.me/c30/vifte.pdf
If you think something was difficult until now, you didn't see the next step: take this air intake out!
As you can see here, it has 3 fixing bolts (T20)...
http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/2749/u9qu.jpg
easy you think? well it took me 2h to take it out: the problem is how to access those 3 bolts (T20)! You can't see them (unless you have a small flexible camera...). To help myself I took some close pictures like this one:

Anyway it's a work to be done with fingers as your eyes...
Do not despair about it, because it's not the hardest par yet... think you will have to get it back at the same place later!

Once the air intake box is out the way is cleared to get the fan motor! Finally!
Now go back the the driver side, lay down "comfortably" on the flor (head up! ) and get your right arm to the fan... you will have plenty of space now you don't have the brake pedal in its place...
Follow those instructions: http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/2015/jkpb.jpg
no need for two persons, I've done it alone, and no need for special tool: just take the connector out; with your hand search the small clip marked as (1) and with the same hand turn the all fan counter clockwise, and it will be released... now, take it out from the passenger side.

You have now done about 1/3 of the job!
I had 2 options at this point, get a new fan (about 530€ for a new genuine one ) get a used one (found between 50€ and 120€ with the chance it could be broken it near future...) or repair mine
I like the last one, and succeeded on it! The problem with this fan is not the motor, but a circuit board attached to it.
You can easily open it by taking the back cover out and it will look like this:


On the centre you will see 3x2 pins machine welded; you'll need a cutting pliers to separate them (you'll be able to solder them back later), and unscrew one bolt on the corner. You can now take the circuit board out. If you're lucky (as I was) you will have some burned FET transistor attached to the heat sink (big aluminium part attached to the circuit board).
http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/7419/v77x.jpg
All this trouble to found this! In my case the problem was all there... I replaced the 6 FET transistors with new ones and took the opportunity to replace with stronger ones: original ones are 2SK3057 and I replaced them with STP60NF06L... the problem with STPxxx is they have no isolated box, so replacement implies using Transistor Insulating Kit for each one... It cost me less than 20€ for all the parts (STPs + kits). Check the diference on next picture:
http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/3508/uu6g.jpg

To replace the 6 FET you will have to take the heat sink out. On the next picture you will see 2 bolts (in RED) with solder on them: you will have to take the solder first and then unscrew them both. After the bolts, come the 6 FETs, each one has 3 "legs" to dissolder. Once done you will take all apart and unscrew the 6 fixing screws from the 6 FETs. Replace them with new ones (with Insulating Kit in case of using STPxxx), and solder it back again to the board with the 2 heat sink fixing screws (put again solder on them...).
Install the circuit board again back to the fan and solder the 3x2 pads together.
Cover back to fan and job done!

You now have a repaired fan with stronger circuit board!

You're now half the way of the job, let's start get it back together.
Fan to it's place (rotate clockwise until clip is on its place).

Now the hardest part... get the air intake box to its place
Remember the 3 (T20) bolts it took me 2h to unscrew? well that's not all... on the box you will see that you have some "grey isolation sponge" on the side that will be turned to the front of the car. This isolation needs to be in its place to insure a good insolation, but as you will found out it's not easy to do so because of the close space you have to work on. So the only way I found was to disassemble something else! But this time on the exterior of the car...
OK, let's go again; open the bonnet and remove both wipers arms. Next step is to remove all fixing pins of the plastic cover under those arms (except 2 on the middle that you only have to rotate a quarter turn, you do not have to remove them).
After doing it you will have to remove this plastic cover to access the air vent for the air intake box, like this:

You can now adjust the isolation sponge from the outside.

Now the "easy" part: put back those 3 (T20) screws on the air intake box!!!
I thought about two techniques to do the job:
- use a T20 TIP strongly magnetised, but didn't have one strong enough to insure that the screw would not fall off...
- put the 3 screws in place and on the back of the box (the side that will be close to the FAN) insure that the screws would not fall using a sponge adhesive tape: just cut a small square (6x6mm +/-) with a hole at the centre, and just insert it in the screw so that it will not fall off when putting the box on its place.

I used the 2º technique and I was successful (after more than 1h work just for that...) here again my fingers worked as my eyes.

The rest is piece a cake (compared to that last part)
Just put all back together without forgetting any screw (like me... one spare T25 screw at the end... upppsss)

Hope you enjoy the work!

Note1: some pictures LINK updated (did not found them all yet...)

 

Tozito you are spectacular !!!!!
Very very compliment for the work !!!!,
I read your post just now and i will fix a day of holiday from my work to try to repair my fan !!!!
First of all i have to understand how dismount the fan without miss the screw !!

Very compliments yet !!!!

 

Thank you for the excellent write-up on how to repair the blower motor on the P1 vehicles! I was able to successfully repair the blower on my C30 this week using a procedure similar yours. Here are a few things I did differently that may save a bit of time.

For reference, here are the VIDA documents in english:

Glove compartment removal
CEM removal
Fan motor removal

1. Removal of the pedals isn't necessary. Remove the metal shield under the steering column and you'll have enough room and visibility to reach up and unlock the motor.
2. Use one of those small snake cameras to see where the air intake screws are. A cheap USB version that plugs into a PC will make this a 10 minute job. Here's a sample of how I used it to extract one of the screws: video
3. You don't need to completely remove the air intake shroud, it only needs to be removed low enough to allow the fan to pass over it.
4. The Volvo tool which clips onto the fan is used to lock the blades so that they can be used to turn the fan housing and lock it into the heater box. You can make a substitute by putting a metal rod through the hole in the base of the fan so that it pushes against the metal heat sink. I used a nail secured to the fan using tape:

To repair the fan I replaced all the transistors, no sense doing all this work and not change all of them. For reference here are the parts I ordered from Digi-Key:

497-5895-5-ND STP60NF06L MOSFET N-CH 60V 60A TO-220
53-77-9ACG-ND THERMASIL3 THERM PAD TO-220 ADH
HS418-ND INSULATING SHOULDER WASHER 7721-7PPSG

Once replaced it should look like this:

Don't forget to move over the small round ferrite bead from the old transistors to the new ones.

Volvo quotes 1.7 hours to do this job on a C30 so it's probably worth paying them do it if you're putting in a replacement fan (it really is a lot of work, it takes a lot longer than 1.7 hours!). If you plan on repairing the fan then you'll have to do this work yourself.

 

The images don't seem to be showing up in my post, here are the links to the images:

securing fan
replacement parts
installed parts

 

why isn't this stickied???

 

Volvo V50 Right Hand Drive replacement of Air Blower Fan

A Great big thanks for this thread and especially to Tozito for such an excellent write up of how to swap out a blower motor on a V50!!!

I recently had the joy of having to do so. My car is a Right hand drive and there were a few little differences as well as some general tricks I used that helped to make the change over a bit easier, so I thought I would post them in case it helps others.

I also went down the repair option by replacing the blown transistors, I tested the fan before reassembling but after putting it all together after about 20 minutes of operation the fan failed, but not the transistors, so it looks like the driver control in the fan. I then got a second hand unit from a wrecker and did a second swap out, and it has been working fine. As such, after this experience I would recommend a second hand working unit, rather than trying a repair, if you cannot afford the exorbitant Volvo dealer new replacement fan cost.

Testing the fan supply.

Before launching into a fan replacement, I would recommend testing the power to the fan to give you an idea if it is the fan that is dead. I was able to reach up and disconnect the power supply connector to the fan motor and pull it down. On my RHD version this was on the driver's side (accessible after taking the cover above the pedals under the dash off). With the car on I had 12 V DC between the 2 large power cables (BK 0v and Gn/Y +12V) and then a varying 0-12V DC between the 2 thinner control cables (Gn/Y thin and Grey/Y thin) as the fan control knob was wound up from fan off to fan full. I am not sure if this is a full and sufficient test to guarantee that all the supply and control is working, but it gave me enough confidence to believe the problem was in the fan motor and not the supply.
Testing the fan.
If you do get a second hand fan, I was keen to test it before going through the whole process of installing it to just find it may not work. I found that the power supply cable was long enough to pull it down after disconnecting it from the existing fan motor and attached it to the replacement motor, I taped the fan motor to the brake pedal, to keep it safe from destroying itself while it ran, and then run it from the fan control of the car.

Removal of things before actual removal of the motor and fan.

For the Right Hand Drive car that I had, the fan motor is on the driver's side (ie the RHS of the car), the inlet/damper motor manifold is on the passenger's side of the car. Refer to Tozitos post, access to the fan motor required the disconnection of the battery, the removal of the trim on the floor of the door, the trim from the door up the doorway along the A pillar, the dash side cover (with the door air vent in it) and the cover above the drivers pedals and the middle dash cover behind the radio. Access to the inlet manifold for the fan required the removal of the trim on the floor of the passengers door, the trim up the A pillar on the pass angers side, the passenger side of the dash cover (with the passenger door air vent in it) the glove box, the inner glove box, The passenger side fuse/control module (under the dashboard), and remove the white Fuse/control module metal mounting bracket too. And I found that to get the inlet manifold off easier, I removed the Pollen filter cover (the extra centimetre of space from the top bolt and pollen filter cover makes a difference in being able to remove the inlet/damper manifold!). Worth having a new pollen filter ready, so that while you have the cover off you can replace the filter if it needs it. For the RHD car, the cover to get to the pollen filter is on the passenger side, foot well, behind the carpet in the centre console, accessible after the white metal bracket for the fuse/control module is removed. I also removed the black plastic floor vent air feed on the passenger's side to give more access through the glove box hole
.
Removal of Fan inlet manifold.

I also found that before trying to unscrew the inlet manifold, as you look through the hole for the glove box, on the right hand side (centre of the car) down the bottom, there is a little grey electrical connection that is clipped to the chassis just near where the small cable for the inlet manifold damper motor comes out of the harness, unclip this connection from the chassis (no need to disconnect the connection itself), and also unclip the cable to the manifold damper motor from the motor, and remove the cable off its support of the end of the manifold. Removing these two items, helps get the T20 torx screwdriver into the inlet manifold screw that is at the bottom RHS of the glove box entrance. It feels like you can undo it without taking them out, but the torx screwdriver does not quite line up and it is much easier to undo if they are both out the way.

Also , worth noting, as you remove the 3 Torx T20 screws from the inlet manifold, the other 2 Torx T20 screws are almost evenly spaced around the inlet/damper manifold, one up the top and one at the bottom on the firewall side of it. I just used a long straight extension torx socket set to get access. Take extra care you do not drop any of the Torx T20 as they come out!! If you do not have any spares it is very likely they will disappear down behind the aircon gear and never be seen again!!

After removing the 3 screws holding the inlet manifold, as you take the inlet/damper manifold off, twist it on its axis as you pull the damper motor end down, a bit of gentle force is required to get the damper motor end past the firewall/wheel arch where it hits. I found it looked like the best way to get the inlet manifold out of its position was to try to rotate the manifold on its longitudinal axis, but the inlet face (that the air comes in through the firewall) will not allow it to rotate, so I had to pull the damper motor end out while keeping this inlet facing the firewall and then carefully but reasonably forcefully, manipulate the inlet flange past the left wheel arch on the firewall, once past this it was possible to rotate and pull the inlet manifold out and rest it down near where the fuse/control module normally sits.

Once down the damper inlet manifold can rest above the large metal chassis rail, with the air inlet facing upwards, resting where the white metal fuse/control module was. I found it was looking pretty hard to get it actually out, and did not persevere as removal of the air inlet manifold was not actually needed to replace the fan motor. If the manifold is down out the way, then it leaves just enough space to get the fan/motor out through the inner glove box hole above it.
Also, try to save the foam seal from the air inlet (coming through the firewall) as best you can, it is likely to be deteriorated.
Also, there is also a round plastic collar that sits on the air inlet/damper manifold around the neck, where it screws into the console. I recommend, as you disconnect the manifold from the main console, marking its orientation (a white marker), it can only go one way, but it is very tight in there and if it comes away and gets out of alignment it is a pain to try to work out the correct orientation.

Removal of fan and fan motor.

Our V50 is an auto, Right hand drive, and the fan motor is on the driver's side of the console. Not having any clutch pedal there was enough space to reach up (after taking the plastic covers above the pedals off, that were above the drivers foot well space, and also in the middle of the car behind the waterfall panel, between the glove box and drivers side). So I did not have to take the brake pedal off, just taking the covers off was adequate to getting the fan replaced. If you have a manual, I am not sure, but removal of the clutch pedal may be required to be able to get your hand up to undo the motor and twist it.
You can see the fan motor right up in the top of the console, by lying on your back looking up into the centre of the console under the steering wheel. The motor connection was orientated on the firewall side of the rear end of the motor. The clip to press, on the connector, was on the outside of the connector (towards the front of the car), pressing the clip and the pulling the connector removed it from the motor.
Important - Before you take the motor out note its exact orientation, this will assist in lining it up, when you get to putting it back in. This will save a lot of time. Also as you take it out, note the exact orientation of the motor as it moves out into the console, this alignment is exactly how it needs to be when you try to line it up again to put it back into place when reassembling.
To remove the Motor, it is rotated and then pushed into the console, and it then comes out on the passenger side, out of the hole where the inlet manifold was. To allow the motor to turn, there is a plastic locking clip that locks into place when it is put in, the locking clip must be squeezed in while the motor is rotated to remove the motor. The clip was at the top, on the firewall side of the motor (not located as the Volvo Vadis pictures in this forum, probably for LHD motors). The motor locking clip is hard to find, right up the top and hidden behind the firewall insulation.
Note also, once the clip has been pressed in, the motor needs to be turned Clock Wise to undo (NOT anti clockwise as per the instructions (most likely for LHD cars it is ACW).
If you have not already unclipped the power supply to the motor, reach up and unclip the motor electrical plug (find the clip on the connector side, squeeze the clip and then pull the plug out of the motor connection).
Then reach up and find the motor locking clip, squeeze this motor lock clip and at the same time turn the motor Clock Wise and it will gently fall into the console housing, (again, note the motor orientation as this happens!!!!) you can then go round to the passenger side and pull it through and out.

Replacing the fan motor.

Putting the fan motor back in is just the opposite. Feed the fan and motor in, motor first, from the passenger's side, and ease the motor into the console hole, I found the easiest way was using 2 people. To fit the fan motor assembly back in, it needs to be pushed in, then once located into the correct grooves in the console (on the driver's side) the motor must be rotated (anticlockwise when looking at the back of the motor on the driver's side). But it needs constant pressure from the passenger's side to keep it there, and the only way to turn the motor is from the driver's side- hence 2 people, or the making of a bracket to secure the fan blades so that the blades can be turned on the passenger side while pushing. Rather than going to the trouble of making a bracket to stop the fan blades rotating, if you have 2 people -one pushes and jiggles the fan from the passenger side while the second reaches up in the driver's side and guides the motor (in the EXACT orientation to align it to the console holes), then the passenger side person pushes gently on the fan blades, while the driver's side person turns the rear of the motor Anticlockwise to lock it into place and then puts the connector on. If you only have one person, you would need to lock the fan blades or you will have no way of pushing the unit into position and rotating it (as the blades will simply turn, without turning the motor, so not being able to lock the motor into place).

Inlet manifold replacement.

To avoid having to remove the wiper blades and get access to the external side of the firewall, I found being able to secure the foam gasket onto the inlet face of the inlet manifold (the rectangular part that buts up against the firewall) enabled me to get the manifold back into place with the gasket in situ already. My first replacement I used a paper medical tape (3M micopore) that was loose, very thin, and able to let the gasket work, but still hold it on. For the second attempt the gasket was in such bad repair after being removed twice that I had to discard it. I used a self stick foam gasket about 2cm by 2cm profile and tuck this along the edges of the inlet face, and used the paper tape to make sure no leaks at the corners. This worked well and survived the re-insertion. I found once the inlet manifold was back in place, I could get my fingers up at the damper baffle motor end of the inlet manifold to adjust the gasket, but at the console/fan end of the manifold, it was very tight and that part of the gasket needs to be well secured in place to stop it moving during replacement of the manifold.
Note, trying to get the manifold back into place, there is not enough room to turn the manifold once it gets up into the place where it sits. I found it best to push the manifold up in the correct orientation that it is going to be bolted into place (ie with the inlet ready to face forward against the firewall), but it meets resistance against the left wheel arch of the firewall on the way in, just be careful but gentle firm force to get it passed this and into place. (The manifold will go up and in much easier with the inlet facing upwards, but you cannot then twist the inlet manifold, on its axis, when it gets up there- so that is not helpful. The inlet must be facing forward to mate up with the hole in the firewall for the fresh air intake to work.)
Adjust the foam gasket as best as possible once in, make sure the collar between the inlet manifold and the centre console is sitting correctly and then prepare to fit the 3x T20 torx screws back in. I Found taping the screws to my long T20 (extension handled set) driver with a little piece of the paper medical sticking tape held the screws onto the end of the driver adequately to allow me to get them into place, and into the driver holes, done up, and then allowed me to pull the driver out (tape still attached to the driver).

Once the motor and manifold were back in, make sure the inlet manifold cable is reconnected and the motor supply cable reconnected. Before reassembling everything, I then reconnected the Fuse and Control board, and the car battery and tested the fan thoroughly. I couldn't stand the thought of putting everything back together and finding another problem….. Fortunately all was good.
Worth making sure at this point that the return air damper is working all right, nothing fowling it and its motor is working correctly (while you still have access to it).

I then disconnected the battery and reassembled everything in the reverse order of pulling it apart.

Fortunately once all the car was back together, the fan worked well and has continued to do so.

Thanks again for the info!!!

 

okay i've got something going on where my hazards are switched when my climate control motor turns on. there are no relays listed anywhere that i can see, is there something built into the blower motor itself like a resistor or relay that can go bad?

 

v50 climate fan blower motor



Hi rfddrums, I do not think the climate motor has anything particular about it that may effect the hazards, from memory (it was a while back that I looked at it) it has a DC feed and Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) feed from the climate control, that controls the fan speed, and that is pretty much it.

I am also not an auto electrician, but would suggest it may be worth simply taking the battery off and leaving it off for 5 minutes then putting it back on, and do so following the procedure that is elsewhere on Swedespeed for the V50 (it is a bit or a strange procedure to follow) but you may simply have a hic up in the computers. The other thing that may be worth trying is that (on our rhd V50 anyway) is a tray of relays under the glovebox. If any water gets in (eg blocked drains from sunroof) it can run down the pillars and get into the relay tray. Check that there is no corrosion on the relay plugs and relay terminals, make sure they are all plugged in OK too. Fingers crossed....

If not, may be a case of having to start tracing through the wiring diagrams to see what may be causing the hazards to come on with the fan....

Sorry I cannot be more help..... Hope you can get it sorted!!

 

Thanks for tha V0V0V0. I was just looking to gather information about how this functions. I saw the transistor replacement part of the thread but found it interesting there was no relay or anything serviceable separately on it.

 

I have just reached the fan. Well. Almost. I'm just now removing the brake pedal. I think someone on the Volvo design team really hate us. I have never seen something more stubid than this. Normally a blower fan replacement takes minutes. Not 2 days. And I have tons om mechanic tools to help.
Tozito made an excellent guide. Thank you.

 

My first experience with Volvo was with a friend's 240DL, replacing the blower motor. It was a PITA too. The blower was behind the center console like the P1s. Then we found that we had wrong replacement blower motor.

Anyway, I had my V50 torn down as much to replace the heater core. Make sure you catch all the metal clips that hold the two halves of the housing together. When reassembling, the two halves should slide together easily and completely. I made that mistake and had major heat leaking into the cabin. The whole thing had to be taken apart again and reassembled.

 

He he. About 21 years ago i had to replace my heater on my 245. I sat in the middle og the night in minus 15c fresing my balls of replacing the blower unit. It vas a big unit that required me to dissemble almost everything. And that was my first time working on a Volvo and had almost no tools. Now i'm 49 now and have changed many blower fans, but this was stupid complicated and hard.

 

Hello at all, Congratulations and thank you for your explanations, it's really great. The ventilation of my C30 (idem V50) is out of order. I therefore test the power supply circuit before to replacing fan. I have 12v on the motor power supply and also 12v on the regulator whatever the position of the ventilation control button. What do you think about that ? Thanks a lot

 

Great instructions. I bought a new fan motor as an genuine spare part. I did the removal and installation of the fan according to Tozito's instructions and it worked great. I'm sure if I had only worked the instructions from Volvo Vida I would have failed. However, the new fan motor does not work either. I checked all the fuses. At the time the blower failed I smelled the smell of burnt electronic components. The old fan motor does not smell burnt at all. I am quite upset that after all the effort and expense, the problem persists. Does anyone here have any ideas about what I could do next to solve the problem? Thanks in advance.

 

Do you have a code reader and are there any fault codes? After replacing the blower on my S40 it didn't work, fuses good, no fault codes. I double checked everything and couldn't figure it out. In frustration, I ended up taking to mechanic and they were able to determine it was a loose power connector at the blower motor. After securing the connector the blower motor worked. My arms were not quite long enough to fully seat the power connector. It was in but not seated all the way.

 

Thank you for your answer. So far I haven't checked with the code reader. I will be away on a business trip for the next few days. When I return, I will read out the codes and check the power plug again. I was afraid that if I pressed the plug too hard, I would have to push the fan out of its installation position and take everything apart and put it back together again.

I'm actually not sure whether the fan motor could be pushed out of its installation position when the power plug is inserted. It would be really annoying now that everything is reassembled.
Can someone please answer this question?

As soon as I have checked this, I will give feedback to the forum.

 

No, the fan motor can't be pushed out by pushing on the power connection.

 

Thanks for your revert. I will check the power plug at the next opportunity. Thanks to your message, I no longer need to worry about pushing the fan motor out of its holder.

 

I have now checked the power plug. To do this, I removed the driver's seat and parts of the dashboard trim to access the power plug. Because of the guide rails on the plug and in the socket, there is only one position in which the plug can be inserted. I loosened the power plug and plugged it in again. I pressed the power plug firmly into the socket and then checked that it was firmly seated. Unfortunately, the fan motor still does not run. Any ideas what else to check?

Could it be that when the thyristor burnt out, other parts in the fan control were damaged?

In this photo you can see that the thyristor is quite burnt out on the old fan blower board.

This photo shows the old original fan blower.

This photo shows the new fan blower.

This are OEM numbers of new fan blower

 

Hi,
At first, check the voltages at the connector (supply around 12v and control around 12v). If the voltages are OK, I think you must to disassemble the blower fan again !

 

Hi Philouuu,

thank you for your answer. I did indeed forget to measure the voltage at the plug last week. To measure the voltage at the fan plug, I would have to remove the driver's seat and the dashboard panel again. That is a considerable effort.

A small but possibly not completely unimportant piece of information.

When I turn on the ignition I think I hear the fan running very slowly. However, it is not possible to increase the speed of the fan via the fan control in the centre console. When I switch off the ignition and remove the ignition key from the ignition switch, the fan continues to run very slowly for exactly one minute and is then switched off automatically after 1 minute. This leads me to believe that there is voltage at the plug.

I would be interested to know why you think I have to remove the fan motor again if there is voltage at the power connector? Do you think that the fan motor I installed is defective or incompatible? Is it possible that the control unit in the centre console has a defect and can this be measured or checked in any way? A digital multimeter is available and I can also operate it.

Thanks a lot

Volker