Hopefully this isn't redundant information and helps someone attempting this job...
Last weekend I replaced 3 of the lower motor mounts on my Dad's '98 S70 T5. The 3 mounts were the two hydraulic mounts and the engine pad on the passenger side of the car. I used this FCP video as a guide but there are a few things I did different that made the job a little easier and I wanted to share them with everyone since I haven't been able to find a whole lot of info on doing this job. First here's the video that will provide you with 95% of what you need to know to do this job.
In addition/different from the video:
Before jacking up the car:
1. I removed the bolt for the upper torque rod mount. 13mm and 15mm
2. I loosened the hose clamp on the intake pipe that goes into the turbo and slid the hose clamp back out of the way to make room for my extension to reach the nut on the top of the rear hydraulic motor mount.
3. I removed the 15mm nut on the top of the rear hydraulic mount using a very long 3/8 extension with a u-joint swivel and 15mm short socket. Actual swivels sockets would be easiest but you can get away with a u-joint and a short socket. Be very careful not to round off this nut. It's easy to slip off of the nut because of the angle.
Move to the front mount
4. Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the wiring harness onto the front motor mount bracket. (not shown in the video but it makes things easier) Also remove the air inlet pipe that goes to the air filter.
5. Remove the 10mm nut that holds the clamp of the wiring harness to the transmission dipstick. This allows you to move the wiring harness slightly out of the way when removing the front mount.
6. Remove the top 15mm nut off of the front mount. Use the same swivel set up with short socket that was used fro the rear mount.
7. Now jack up both sides of the front of the car enough that you can get underneath the front easily. Support with at least a jackstand on each side. You will need the jack for later. I also placed some ramps under the sides of the car for added safety.
8. Remove the passenger side wheel.
9. Remove the plastic nut that holds the wheel arch over the engine pad and hold it back with some vice grips.
Under the car
10. From under the car, remove the splash shield.
11. Get a 18mm socket and a medium length extension and your 3/8 ratchet and get under the front of the car. Also have an 14mm socket handy for while you're under there.
12. Remove the two 18mm nuts that hold the front of the transmission mount onto the subframe.
13. Remove the 14mm front mount bolt using the access hole in the subframe as seen in the video.
14. Remove the rear mount 14mm bolt sliding the extension between the sway bar and subframe as seen in the video.
15. Get out from under the car and remove the two 14mm bolts the attach the engine pad to the engine.
16. Using two stacked 2x4s cut approximately 12" in length and placed on top of the jack, I jacked up the motor using the oil pan.
Back up top
17. Continue jacking the motor up until you see the front mount bracket clear the front mount.
18. Pull the trans dipstick out to keep from braking it and work the front mount out of the car pretty much as shown in the video except now you'll be able to push the wiring harness toward the engine to give you a little more room to get the mount out. I also removed the throttle body hose which helps awith access.
19. Put new front mount in the same way the old one came out. You will have to jack upt the engine a bit more to clear the taller, uncompressed new mount.
Back under the car
20. Work the mount into place and start the 14mm bolt to hold the mount in place. Spin the mount so the keyway lines up with the keyhole in the motor mount bracket while your buddy lowers the jack. If it's lined up properly tighten the 14mm bolt.
Up top
21. Start the 15mm nut on top of the front motor mount but leave some slack.
22. Jack the motor up enough to get your wrench or short socket on the 18mm bolts the hold the passenger side engine pad in place. Replace the engine pad and 18mm bolts and tighten.
23. Lower the jack. If your engine moved over toward the passenger side, use a large pry bar between the top of the engine pad and the engine to guide it back in place while your buddy lowers the jack. Be careful not to pry against anything delicate.
24. Place the jack with 2x4s under the trans and jack it up some.
Back under
25. From under the car watch as someone jacks up the trans and have them stop once the rear mount is free.
26. Install the new rear mount and start the 14mm bolt. Make sure the keyway is lined up and have your buddy lower the jack. Tigten the 14mm bolt completely.
27. Replace and tighten the 2 lower torque rod trans mount 18mm bolts.
Everything else is pretty much reversal of removal. You will likely have to use the jack to line up the two holes on the engine pad. Be careful tightening the nut on top of the rear mount because it's very easy to slip off of it and round it off. Don't forget to replace the hose clamp the holds the intake pipe to the turbo.
This job can be done without air tools but they will make it easier at times.
Do not attempt to do this job unless you are a highly skilled DIYer. This job will be very difficult without a helper.
All 3 mounts were bought at tascaparts.com for about $250 total. There are many other places to get these mounts as well as cheaper aftermarket options but OE or at least OEM brands are best especially when you consider the difficulty of the job.
The end result is a drastic improvement over how the car felt with the original mounts that had 138,000 miles. No more vibrations, hard shifts or looseness in the front end. In fact I think it made a bigger improvement then when we replaced the shocks and struts. Keep in mind these were the only originals mounts left, all others were replaced recently. This was one of if not the most satisfying jobs I've done on this car. Tough job but big reward!
Disclaimer: I am not legally responsible for any damage or harm you cause yourself or your vehicle while using this guide. Attempt at your own risk.
Last weekend I replaced 3 of the lower motor mounts on my Dad's '98 S70 T5. The 3 mounts were the two hydraulic mounts and the engine pad on the passenger side of the car. I used this FCP video as a guide but there are a few things I did different that made the job a little easier and I wanted to share them with everyone since I haven't been able to find a whole lot of info on doing this job. First here's the video that will provide you with 95% of what you need to know to do this job.
In addition/different from the video:
Before jacking up the car:
1. I removed the bolt for the upper torque rod mount. 13mm and 15mm
2. I loosened the hose clamp on the intake pipe that goes into the turbo and slid the hose clamp back out of the way to make room for my extension to reach the nut on the top of the rear hydraulic motor mount.
3. I removed the 15mm nut on the top of the rear hydraulic mount using a very long 3/8 extension with a u-joint swivel and 15mm short socket. Actual swivels sockets would be easiest but you can get away with a u-joint and a short socket. Be very careful not to round off this nut. It's easy to slip off of the nut because of the angle.
Move to the front mount
4. Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the wiring harness onto the front motor mount bracket. (not shown in the video but it makes things easier) Also remove the air inlet pipe that goes to the air filter.
5. Remove the 10mm nut that holds the clamp of the wiring harness to the transmission dipstick. This allows you to move the wiring harness slightly out of the way when removing the front mount.
6. Remove the top 15mm nut off of the front mount. Use the same swivel set up with short socket that was used fro the rear mount.
7. Now jack up both sides of the front of the car enough that you can get underneath the front easily. Support with at least a jackstand on each side. You will need the jack for later. I also placed some ramps under the sides of the car for added safety.
8. Remove the passenger side wheel.
9. Remove the plastic nut that holds the wheel arch over the engine pad and hold it back with some vice grips.
Under the car
10. From under the car, remove the splash shield.
11. Get a 18mm socket and a medium length extension and your 3/8 ratchet and get under the front of the car. Also have an 14mm socket handy for while you're under there.
12. Remove the two 18mm nuts that hold the front of the transmission mount onto the subframe.
13. Remove the 14mm front mount bolt using the access hole in the subframe as seen in the video.
14. Remove the rear mount 14mm bolt sliding the extension between the sway bar and subframe as seen in the video.
15. Get out from under the car and remove the two 14mm bolts the attach the engine pad to the engine.
16. Using two stacked 2x4s cut approximately 12" in length and placed on top of the jack, I jacked up the motor using the oil pan.
Back up top
17. Continue jacking the motor up until you see the front mount bracket clear the front mount.
18. Pull the trans dipstick out to keep from braking it and work the front mount out of the car pretty much as shown in the video except now you'll be able to push the wiring harness toward the engine to give you a little more room to get the mount out. I also removed the throttle body hose which helps awith access.
19. Put new front mount in the same way the old one came out. You will have to jack upt the engine a bit more to clear the taller, uncompressed new mount.
Back under the car
20. Work the mount into place and start the 14mm bolt to hold the mount in place. Spin the mount so the keyway lines up with the keyhole in the motor mount bracket while your buddy lowers the jack. If it's lined up properly tighten the 14mm bolt.
Up top
21. Start the 15mm nut on top of the front motor mount but leave some slack.
22. Jack the motor up enough to get your wrench or short socket on the 18mm bolts the hold the passenger side engine pad in place. Replace the engine pad and 18mm bolts and tighten.
23. Lower the jack. If your engine moved over toward the passenger side, use a large pry bar between the top of the engine pad and the engine to guide it back in place while your buddy lowers the jack. Be careful not to pry against anything delicate.
24. Place the jack with 2x4s under the trans and jack it up some.
Back under
25. From under the car watch as someone jacks up the trans and have them stop once the rear mount is free.
26. Install the new rear mount and start the 14mm bolt. Make sure the keyway is lined up and have your buddy lower the jack. Tigten the 14mm bolt completely.
27. Replace and tighten the 2 lower torque rod trans mount 18mm bolts.
Everything else is pretty much reversal of removal. You will likely have to use the jack to line up the two holes on the engine pad. Be careful tightening the nut on top of the rear mount because it's very easy to slip off of it and round it off. Don't forget to replace the hose clamp the holds the intake pipe to the turbo.
This job can be done without air tools but they will make it easier at times.
Do not attempt to do this job unless you are a highly skilled DIYer. This job will be very difficult without a helper.
All 3 mounts were bought at tascaparts.com for about $250 total. There are many other places to get these mounts as well as cheaper aftermarket options but OE or at least OEM brands are best especially when you consider the difficulty of the job.
The end result is a drastic improvement over how the car felt with the original mounts that had 138,000 miles. No more vibrations, hard shifts or looseness in the front end. In fact I think it made a bigger improvement then when we replaced the shocks and struts. Keep in mind these were the only originals mounts left, all others were replaced recently. This was one of if not the most satisfying jobs I've done on this car. Tough job but big reward!
Disclaimer: I am not legally responsible for any damage or harm you cause yourself or your vehicle while using this guide. Attempt at your own risk.
