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thanks everyone! i will give it shot this long holiday weekend using ramps.

i bought my pierburg tcv for $33 on ebay - no tubing.

edit: just ordered 11" long needle nose pliers for $10 on amazon. hope it makes the job more pleasant
 
Just to stay in the topic and not create a new one - can somebody with Vida can confirm if doing a TCV test ("activate" function) should result in any audible feedback? Tested mine recently, with engine on and off and the same result - no audible difference at all. TCV is working, during test run goes to 55% duty cycle (not sure if thats the correct value but it seem to be nominal).
Remember reading posts about "relocating tuned TCVs due to heat and sound they make" so what gives?....
 
Don't forget to give the new TCV a few mile break in period. Keep it out of boost for the first mile, then slowly build boost over the 2nd and 3rd miles until you're up to wide open throttle.

Remember reading posts about "relocating tuned TCVs due to heat and sound they make" so what gives?....
The TCV does no make a sound. What people hear is the TCV rattling against the fire wall (a common relocation spot). Especially the aftermarket TCVs that are mounted to aluminum brackets, those make all sorts of rattles against the firewall under full boost. If your TCV is still in the stock location, or it's sufficiently spaced from the firewall, you probably won't hear anything.
 
The TCV does no make a sound. What people hear is the TCV rattling against the fire wall (a common relocation spot). Especially the aftermarket TCVs that are mounted to aluminum brackets, those make all sorts of rattles against the firewall under full boost. If your TCV is still in the stock location, or it's sufficiently spaced from the firewall, you probably won't hear anything.
Thanks for clarification, makes sense now. Yes, stock one and stock location.
So what is the "activate" test in Vida for? would work only when car is driving? Tried to activate it when idling and duty cycle still remained 0%.
 
I'm not sure... I still don't have Vida.
But if I had to guess, it would a process of testing the TCV at various boost levels to ensure it is working properly.
 
When I replaced mine on the V50, I had a bear of a time getting the hoses back onto the nipples. I found that heating the ends of the hoses made them slip on much easier! Oh, and be sure to just slide the clamps back, leaving them on the hoses the whole time. Then, once the hoses are back on the TCV, simply open and slide the clamps back in place.
 
appreciate the tips! i bought some long nose pliers... with big hands the less i need to reach into things the better.

how'd you heat the hoses? blow dryer? i'm in sunny california but still in 40-60s so chilly.

When I replaced mine on the V50, I had a bear of a time getting the hoses back onto the nipples. I found that heating the ends of the hoses made them slip on much easier! Oh, and be sure to just slide the clamps back, leaving them on the hoses the whole time. Then, once the hoses are back on the TCV, simply open and slide the clamps back in place.
 
appreciate the tips! i bought some long nose pliers... with big hands the less i need to reach into things the better.

how'd you heat the hoses? blow dryer? i'm in sunny california but still in 40-60s so chilly.
Blow dryer could work, but I used a heat gun. It doesn't need much heat, just enough to make the rubber a bit more pliable.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
What? No... Just lift the front of the car on jacks or ramps. Then it's a fairly straight reach up along side the turbo. You do have to reach around the axle, but no need to remove the wheel. I swapped out TCVs on the last V50 in 30 minutes, but that was the 3rd one that I've done.
Yeah I tried that the first time too - IMO it's much easier to see what you're doing from the side than the bottom. Besides, wheel off is like an extra 2 min of work. But whatever works for you is the right way to do it ;) The CBV definitely needs to be accessed from the side though.

Try spraying just a bit of wd40 on the inside of the hose, or put some on your fingers and touch the end of the hose - it'll slide right on like butter.
 
Surprised to see so much love for the plastic OEM valve.

The IPD HD is an all metal valve body and uses an industrial control style coil. I found the strain relief a little wanting but some butyl rubber and split loom took care of that. Ziptied to the firewall and never looked back.

I guess if you consider it a consumable like the FPS than it's probably OK. I just didn't want to worry about it again. The VVT solenoids, for example, are all metal.
 
ipd definitely sounds superior... heard their initial version had issues, though. but honestly i'm cheap and the oem was much cheaper. also the stock one actually is still working at 70k (although probably not optimally in the last 10k) so if i get another 50-60k out of this one i'm happy... will likely sell the car well before it needs replacing again

Surprised to see so much love for the plastic OEM valve.

The IPD HD is an all metal valve body and uses an industrial control style coil. I found the strain relief a little wanting but some butyl rubber and split loom took care of that. Ziptied to the firewall and never looked back.

I guess if you consider it a consumable like the FPS than it's probably OK. I just didn't want to worry about it again. The VVT solenoids, for example, are all metal.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
I've talked to a few tuners and they said that the stock peirburg unit is the easiest to get to work properly. So if you're going tune, then I'd say stay stock. Counter-intuitive, right?
 
Surprised to see so much love for the plastic OEM valve.
I've talked to a few tuners and they said that the stock peirburg unit is the easiest to get to work properly. So if you're going tune, then I'd say stay stock. Counter-intuitive, right?
This! There are many aftermarket TCVs available for our cars that are superior in build quality, but adjusting timing for these TCVs has proven extremely challenging for all of the major tuners.

The stock TCV has proven sufficient for both K04 and K16 applications. Relocating it away from the turbo has allowed stock units to last as long as 150k miles, which is hardly disposable.
Especially since you can now buy the pierburg unit for $30-50, it's the better option in my opinion.
 
If your accessing the TCV from underneath i think you do have to remove the turbo hardpipe in order to get better access. I cant remember though exactly what needed to be removed, anyone?
 
Haha, I guess so! Apparently I replace a lot of things without removing anything else. ;)
 
MNIWT's my hero. i'll try to do the install this weekend just on ramps w/o removing anything also. we'll see.
 
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