Ironic timing! I just did the TCV last weekend for my V50, pics and write up coming soon.

But for anyone doing this, I really encourage relocating your TCV. The stock location is so close to the turbo, the heat causes premature failure and potentially faulty readings (especially on a tune vehicle being driven hard). All the aftermarket TCVs suggest relocation to one of the firewall bolts. I used about 6" of extra hose to relocate my OEM replacement. Ziptied it to the AC lines with a little foam insulation so it doesn't rattle around.

Definitely an easy replacement, it's just some awkward positioning to access it.

 

i've read the instructions and there's 1 youtube but it doesn't really go into detail of the hardest part... getting the TCV off or removing the hoses and re-attaching them on the new valve. it seems if you can barely even see it, how the heck do you get tiny hoses on and off, especially where you need to manipulate hose clips?

mniwt, any chance you have a write/video stored somewhere and just haven't had a chance to edit/upload? the only thing in the FAQ/DIY is for a D5.

i like the idea of new hoses but i'm also kind of lazy/short on free time (2 young kids) so honestly would prefer to just get the new TCV in place in the most efficient manner possible. you mentioned hose extension in another post -- did you mean somehow attach new hose to the original hose? what kind of connector did you use to do that? or did you mean replace the entire hose length with a longer one? if so, where did you order the hoses and what size? it seems that would mean digging into the engine bay even more to get at the other end of the hoses. i'm only at 70k miles so maybe my hoses will tolerate another 30-50k miles with the replacement TCV.

i'm willing to tackle it -- i've done e-focus mount, ecu spacer, fps thanks, oil/air filter, and cabin filter changes thanks to this forum. but my hands are big and am not the most patient person
how much do you think a shop will charge to install it?

Ironic timing! I just did the TCV last weekend for my V50, pics and write up coming soon.

But for anyone doing this, I really encourage relocating your TCV. The stock location is so close to the turbo, the heat causes premature failure and potentially faulty readings (especially on a tune vehicle being driven hard). All the aftermarket TCVs suggest relocation to one of the firewall bolts. I used about 6" of extra hose to relocate my OEM replacement. Ziptied it to the AC lines with a little foam insulation so it doesn't rattle around.

Definitely an easy replacement, it's just some awkward positioning to access it.

 

What constitutes "premature" failure? Seems like 10 years is a good lifespan, but less than that would be concerning.

 

I would say 5 years or 60k miles. I've seen them go bad in less time than that too.

10 years is definitely reasonable.

 

60k seems short, but then again that's about the lifespan of a FPS. So what are your thoughts on "upgrading" (as ARD calls it) the TCV to the porsche unit? Still a pierburg, so I'm not sure it makes a difference except in price.

 

I say keep the stock TCV. After following all the data logs and tuning issues from Shark and Elevate, general consensus is that the stock TCV is pretty much the best unit and easier to control with software tuning. It just needs to be relocated away from the turbo on cars with excessive boost.

Elevate and iPd both have aftermarket TCVs which are claimed to be an improved design for higher boost cars. But the best running K16 builds are all using stock TCVs... So that says something.

 

That makes sense when comparing pierburg (OEM) to aftermarket (IPD, etc.), but from pierburg (OEM) to pierburg (OEM Porsche)? The only difference I could see was that the mounting clip was different... and it's significantly cheaper.

 

Oh, yeah... I'm really not sure if there is a mechanical benefit from one to the other. Like you said, price and mounting clip are different. Do you happen to have a side by side picture of the two?

I went with the Pierburg unit (Volvo part) from FCP Euro which was ~$50. The V50 will be "Stage 3" once it's all said and done.

 

Go here: http://www.ardideas.com/Turbo-Control-Valve-HD--Pierburg-_p_2180.html You'll see that the pierburg (porsche) unit has a true attachment clip. Go here: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/7711/115609-bcs-boost-control-solenoid You'll see that the pierburg (OEM Volvo) unit has a press-in attachment. The only difference I can tell is the attachment, and the Porsche one you can find at amazon for about $25. No other issues, whatsoever.

 

I just did mine on my 05 s60, bigggggg difference, found it on flea bay for 36$ shipped

 

stage three for the V50:what:?

 

Everything except for a K16. But adding parts slowly so that the wifey can learn the difference/improvements that each part delivers.

 

You must have a cool wife. My gf could care less

 

Hey,
What is this fps, I hear mentioned? I have an 05 2.5t...do I even have it?

 

Fuel Pressure Sensor, you have one in your S60.

 

Based on what you've done, you shouldn't have any problem with the TCV.

It's too tight of a space to actually film the process of removing the hoses and clips, but there's enough space to get your hands in there.

The TCV slides off of a metal bracket with a little force. The clips can easily be pinched and removed using small pliers. If you're keeping the TCV in the same spot, it's a fairly simple disconnect reconnect procedure.

I suggested relocating the TCV to get it away from the excessive heat of the turbo. Two of the stock hoses will remain long enough to relocate it, no need to disconnect the hoses from their other ends. You will need to extend one hoses using a basic hose connector (pictured below). 3 or 4mm ID hosing should work. Did your new TCV not come with new hoses?

Elevate's TCV installation guide gives a few good pictures of the process as well.

 

You've got to take the wheel off and then wedge you hands in between the subframe and the engine (around the suspension) and take needle nose pliers and pinch the connectors off. I suggest doing these one at a time and immediately connecting the old hose to the new tcv. It's very doable, but not fun.

Even the CBV is not that hard to get at with the right tools and some patience.

 

You've got to take the wheel off and then wedge you hands in between the subframe and the engine (around the suspension) and take needle nose pliers and pinch the connectors off. I suggest doing these one at a time and immediately connecting the old hose to the new tcv. It's very doable, but not fun.

What? No... Just lift the front of the car on jacks or ramps. Then it's a fairly straight reach up along side the turbo. You do have to reach around the axle, but no need to remove the wheel. I swapped out TCVs on the last V50 in 30 minutes, but that was the 3rd one that I've done.

 

thanks everyone! i will give it shot this long holiday weekend using ramps.

i bought my pierburg tcv for $33 on ebay - no tubing.

edit: just ordered 11" long needle nose pliers for $10 on amazon. hope it makes the job more pleasant

 

Just to stay in the topic and not create a new one - can somebody with Vida can confirm if doing a TCV test ("activate" function) should result in any audible feedback? Tested mine recently, with engine on and off and the same result - no audible difference at all. TCV is working, during test run goes to 55% duty cycle (not sure if thats the correct value but it seem to be nominal).
Remember reading posts about "relocating tuned TCVs due to heat and sound they make" so what gives?....

 

Don't forget to give the new TCV a few mile break in period. Keep it out of boost for the first mile, then slowly build boost over the 2nd and 3rd miles until you're up to wide open throttle.

Remember reading posts about "relocating tuned TCVs due to heat and sound they make" so what gives?....

The TCV does no make a sound. What people hear is the TCV rattling against the fire wall (a common relocation spot). Especially the aftermarket TCVs that are mounted to aluminum brackets, those make all sorts of rattles against the firewall under full boost. If your TCV is still in the stock location, or it's sufficiently spaced from the firewall, you probably won't hear anything.

 

I'm not sure... I still don't have Vida.
But if I had to guess, it would a process of testing the TCV at various boost levels to ensure it is working properly.

 

When I replaced mine on the V50, I had a bear of a time getting the hoses back onto the nipples. I found that heating the ends of the hoses made them slip on much easier! Oh, and be sure to just slide the clamps back, leaving them on the hoses the whole time. Then, once the hoses are back on the TCV, simply open and slide the clamps back in place.

 

appreciate the tips! i bought some long nose pliers... with big hands the less i need to reach into things the better.

how'd you heat the hoses? blow dryer? i'm in sunny california but still in 40-60s so chilly.

 

Surprised to see so much love for the plastic OEM valve.

The IPD HD is an all metal valve body and uses an industrial control style coil. I found the strain relief a little wanting but some butyl rubber and split loom took care of that. Ziptied to the firewall and never looked back.

I guess if you consider it a consumable like the FPS than it's probably OK. I just didn't want to worry about it again. The VVT solenoids, for example, are all metal.

 

ipd definitely sounds superior... heard their initial version had issues, though. but honestly i'm cheap and the oem was much cheaper. also the stock one actually is still working at 70k (although probably not optimally in the last 10k) so if i get another 50-60k out of this one i'm happy... will likely sell the car well before it needs replacing again

Surprised to see so much love for the plastic OEM valve.

The IPD HD is an all metal valve body and uses an industrial control style coil. I found the strain relief a little wanting but some butyl rubber and split loom took care of that. Ziptied to the firewall and never looked back.

I guess if you consider it a consumable like the FPS than it's probably OK. I just didn't want to worry about it again. The VVT solenoids, for example, are all metal.

 

I've talked to a few tuners and they said that the stock peirburg unit is the easiest to get to work properly. So if you're going tune, then I'd say stay stock. Counter-intuitive, right?

 

If your accessing the TCV from underneath i think you do have to remove the turbo hardpipe in order to get better access. I cant remember though exactly what needed to be removed, anyone?

 

I didn't remove anything...

 

Well MNIWT, you are (apparently) special. Yes, I believe removing the hardpipe and rubber/silicone coupler helps a lot. Still easier to do from the side IMO

 

Haha, I guess so! Apparently I replace a lot of things without removing anything else.

 

MNIWT's my hero. i'll try to do the install this weekend just on ramps w/o removing anything also. we'll see.

 

done!

while the kids played with their christmas presents i got my christmas present: free time to replace the TCV. spent about an hour. falling MNIWT's lead, i didn't remove the front passenger wheel or turbo pipe. just went from underneath with the care on some ramps.

not being too familiar with hose clips that was the biggest struggle, both getting them off and later back on. once i had them off the end of the hose, i had to pry the tubing off with a flat blade screwdriver. remember someone mentioning that tip just before i was about to just cut off the tubing in frustration after not being able to pull them off the stock TCV! glad i didn't since i needed every extra centimeter to work with. the back of my right hand and my finger tips are pretty chewed up. definitely grateful for the advice on having long needle nose pliers available.

the car started up fine. no check engine light. a quick test has showed much smoother and linear boost, no more crazy surges. love it!

thanks again everyone for the help. love this forum! merry christmas!

 

driven the car a few days now with the new TCV and it's great! not getting any more power, just much smoother delivery both getting on and off the gas.

some tips reflecting back on the installation:
- just push the original tcv off with a flat blade screw driver (for some reason i thought it was clipped in and tried to pry one end of it for a few minutes, including cracking some of the plastic -- basically was getting frustrated and tried to brute force it off. it's slid onto the mount but not truly "clipped" that i can tell)
- consider thin gloves. it would've protected the back of my hands from some scratches from the adjacent turbo/suspension parts. i eventually put on some motorcycle gloves so i could protect my finger tips when manipulating the hose clips
- in prying the original hoses off the original TCV, use a flat blade screwdriver and a twist/turn motion to separate the hose from it's flush against TCV position. once you have it off a few mm you can pull them off.
- with both off and on, twisting or spinning the hoses worked the best for me. direct pushing or pulling was much harder and got me nowhere. maybe the way the hoses are designed to decrease chance of slippage (if so, ingenious). i ended up not heating them or using any lubrication. both might've helped for sure, but once i figured out the twisting, i was good
- similarly with hose clips, twisting or spinning by hand was easiest for me. was trying to use the pliers to get them back on since i used the pliers to get them loose and off. but pretty much by hand to get back on
- definitely as everyone said, one hose at a time is the way to go as to not confuse any. don't think any particular order is critical but you don't have a lot of extra hose or space to work with.
- i slid farther up under the car to do some of the reattaching of hose and hose clips just going by feel. felt more comfortable to have my hands and the tubes at torso level so my elbows could be straighter, rather than arms bunched up and hands in front of my face. allowed my neck to rest too since i didn't need to crane it up to look since i was going by feel

hope the above helps the next guy.

ps. i also bought the pierburg TCV that's oem for porsche. less expensive than OEM volvo and if it's slightly more durable or "higher performance" than the original that's a nice bonus. but for those concerned it some how isn't truly compatible, rest assured it works just fine. but the mount is a indeed a clip and doesn't fit the original TCV's metal mount location so i zip tied it in place like others did.