You did a good job documenting this. Instead of using an offset wrench in step 12, I used a S-shaped box end wrench. They are available on E-bay and through other sources for about $15.

I did not remove the down pipe, turbo or heat shields. I did remove the pipe from the hangers so the whole exhaust could be lowered when the engine is tilted.

 

30- remove the two bolts attaching the wire harness to the subframe

31- remove the starter
a- remove the two bolts that were also used for the left air box bracket.

b- disconnect the electric cable in the back

c- push the starter out by tapping a small rod through the third hole

I read that there should be a bracket in the back of the starter to attach it to the engine. There was no such bracket in my case.
32- support the engine from above. I built my own support from some steel beams bought at the local hardware store and wood pieces cut to fit.

33- remove the bracket behind the transmission and above the rear engine mount

34- remove from the top, the bracket at the back of the transmission, holding the connectors for the O2 sensors.

I attempted to remove this before the bracket in step 32 but I had my ratcheting wrench stuck.

35- remove the bolt at the bottom of the rear engine mount. You can barely see it from below between the sway bar and the subframe.

It seems impossible to remove without removing the sway bar first. If you have skinnier extension like the 18 inch one I am using here, you can squeeze it here before attaching the socket, and manage to attach the socket behind sway bar with the tip of your fingers.

It worked even with my oversized sway bar.
36- remove the rear engine mount and its cover

37- remove the lower transmission mount

38- remove the bolt from below the subframe for the front engine mount
39- remove the bolt from above of the same front engine mount.
40- remove the two upper bolts for the passenger side lower engine mount

This picture shows one bolt already removed.
41- unclip the power steering lines on the passenger side of the subframe.
42- disconnect behind the swaybar, on the passenger side. The fuel return line that pass between the sway bar and the subframe, pull it out and unclip it from the subframe
43- disconnect the end links from the sway bar
44- remove the 4 nuts and one bolt attaching the steering rack to the subframe
45- disconnect the tie rod end from the wheel hub
46- support the steering rack by the tie rods with some straps attached to the coil springs.
47- support the subframe on both side
48- remove the 4 smaller bolts that attach the bracket supporting the subframe on the rear to the car body (2 on each side)
49- remove partially (6 turns) the 4 main bolts attaching the subframe and lower a bit the subframe.
50- remove the bracket that was holding the downpipe from the subframe. A third bolt is on top of the subframe, which is why you have to lower the subframe a bit before you can remove it.

This is to clear the brake line when lowering the subframe.
51- make sure nothing is attached to the subframe, remove the 4 main bolts, and remove the subframe.
52- lower the engine and transmission with the supporting device you used to support the engine from above. I lowered it by about 8cm but a little bit more would have made things easier.
523- place a transmission jack under the transmission and secure the transmission to it

Do not place the jack too close from the engine as the center of gravity of the transmission seems to be closer to the opposite end. The transmission jack should be centered below the center of gravity of the transmission. I used some wood shims to stabilize the transmission on the jack.

54- remove all the bolts attaching the transmission to the engine
55- separate the transmission from the engine enough to clear the drive shaft completely. I had to remove the plastic bracket attaching the hydraulic clutch line to the frame to prevent damaging it while separating the transmission.

Only partially visible here.
56- lower the transmission jack a roll it out of the way

 

Excellent write up and thanks. How many miles it before the replacement? How was it driven? I am trying to get an idea about mine. Thanks.

 

I was at 241k miles. I think it is unusually long before a slave cylinder failure. I also discovered that I was running too lean, probably damaged the wall cylinder. I am going to pick up a used engine Monday and replace mine.

 

Might wanna look into replacing the turbo as well, or at least make sure it's in good shape.
Nice writeup.

 

Thanks for the write up! Will be starting this in a few days.

 

How long did it take you? First time pulling a tranny? It doesn't seem like the process is all too difficult removing the beast, as long as parts separate easily (which probably won't be the case). How about reinstalling the tranny? Will you be doing a write up on that?

 

I am not sure how long it took me. I did it over several days but taking my time. It is the first time I take out a transmission but I had already taken out the angle gear before and replaced the sway bars as well. Removing the driver side axle can be tricky but doable with some patience, as described in the referenced link. As for the collar sleeve, it is likely to be hard to remove, but you don't actually need to remove it if you just want to get the transmission out. It would be also easier to remove it once the transmission is out.
I am planning to take pictures when I reinstall it so I can do a write up.
But before that I will do an engine replacement and could do a write up as well if there is some interest.

 

Not sure but I have been led to believe it's best to drop both motor and trans then separate them,although haven't done it yet and the jury is still out looking for step by step on the best way

 

Got mine all ready to drop the subframe. But have a few questions. The only thing left I see that could be a problem is a hose in between the sway bar and the subframe. There's no way to get it out unless I remove the sway after dropping the subframe. I was told just to cut it and reattach it with a small piece of hose. Is this the best way to do it?
Also I was told there is a screw/ bolt inside under the steering wheel that I must remove. Is thus necessary even though the steering rack will be staying under the car?

 

You can disconnect this hose. There is a rubber connection just behind the steering rack. Just pull it from the rubber hose.
I don't think you need to remove the bolt from the steering column.

 

 

I don't see the connection. It runs up into the engine and way down the car next to the fuel lines. Someone said it was an evap hose.

 

In my car I had this evap line, which looks like a hard plastic line. Just behind the sway bar, it enters a small rubber hose, maybe 2 or 3 inch long and then the same plastic line toward the fuel tank. That rubber hose is what I called the connector. Maybe the Volvo place I used to have my car serviced at, added this small rubber hose at some point.

 

Thanks for the great write up, exactly what I was looking for.

 

Great stuff.

Perhaps I will reconsider *not* doing this on my 04 XC70 :beer:

 

Great write up! The only place it lacks is where every writeup on trans removal seems to fall short- it would be helpful to have a photo of the transmission showing all of the trans bolt locations so we can count and compare- I am in the middle of a trans job and am trying to figure out if the driveshaft is holding this together or if I missed a trans bolt... thanks though- this must have taken hours to type after doing the actual job itself!

 

Nice write-up! That bolt that is between the swaybar and subframe seriously sucks.