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Tonyfr's 1996 Volvo 850R Estate revival

15K views 111 replies 12 participants last post by  Tonyfr  
#1 ·
Went to the body shop today. Shop said not to repaint the whole car; they can do the hood and the roof and polish out the paint on the sides (said sides were in very good shape). Estimate was $2,000.
 

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#2 ·
subsciribed!
 
#3 · (Edited)
I have a list of mechanical items that I have to get to before the paint. Still waiting for the PCV parts from IPD. On a brighter note, UPS just showed up with my tweeters for the rear panels.
 

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#4 ·
I also bought the rear spoiler on eBay before I even found the car! Figured I could just prime it and sell it and make a little profit if I couldn't find a car.
 

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#5 ·
The Propus wheels on the car all have curb marks on them, so I am going to use these wheels for now. These were on my V70 T5.
 

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#6 · (Edited)
Picture of car in current state.

127796
 
#7 · (Edited)
Replaced the front and rear speakers in the doors. Previous owner made the adapter for the rear speakers. Head unit has to go.
 

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#8 ·
USPS dropped off the rear spoiler brackets today from Germany. Took three weeks for them to arrive at a cost of $135.00. I guess you have to pay to play.
 

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#10 ·
My PCV replacement parts finally shipped, so I will start on that as soon as it arrives. The next thing on the list is replacing suspension parts. I started the car two days ago and put it in drive and heard a slight whirring sound coming from the transmission. It does it under load in the drive gears so I am going to do a transmission service. I'm trying to decide if it warrants doing a manual swap since I have a lead on all of the parts.
 
#11 ·
Nice! I am subscribed as well. The propus Cs are nice but gotta be impossible to keep clean. I like the 5 spokes.
When paint shop does work they'll do the wang and install?
 
#12 · (Edited)
The Propus wheels have a lot of curb marks on all of them, so getting them refinished is out of the question. I will have the paint shop paint the wang, but I will put it on. I think the 5 spokes are slightly wider than the Propus wheels. I have 225x45x17 tires on them and they did fit well on the old V70 (these were refinished so there are no marks on them).
 

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#13 ·
Had a little more time today. Head unit came in last night so decided to install. Only problem is I can't find a way through the firewall to run power for my amp in the rear for the sub. Didn't want to drill through so I was looking for a grommet in the firewall.
 

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#15 ·
Thanks! I saw that tube but didn't know that it was a pass-thru. I guess I'm wiring up the subwoofer tomorrow.
 
#17 · (Edited)
I found the pass-thru on the firewall. I had to mount the amp in the corner because it wouldn't fit under the deck like it did in my V70. Sounds so much better now.
** EDIT ** Just figured out why it wouldn't fit under the deck. This car has a full size spare and my V70 had a donut. Guess I'll relocate the amp when I get a new spare.
 

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#21 ·
Guess I'll relocate the amp when I get a new spare.
I'm pretty happy with the amp under the front passenger seat and a long line to the box in the cargo area. Only "issue" is a little less foot room in the back seat on the passenger side, but it don't affect me much because I rarely have back seat passengers.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Well, I got the PCV kit and installed it today. As usual (with my luck), I put it all back together, started the car and got 4 codes:


P1310 - Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 3
P0305 - Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
P1507 - Idle control system malfunction
P1505 - Idle Air Control System At Adaptive Clip


I cleared the codes and restarted the car and let it run and now I get two codes - P1310 and P0305. The car won't hold an idle and when I hold the RPM's at 1500 for a while, the engine will accelerate, run smooth but won't hold an idle. I also pulled the injector rail off again and made sure everything was seated correctly. Also checked plug number 5 to make sure it was seated also. Is it time for me to buy a Toyota?
 

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#20 ·
Didn't unplug the temp sensor, just removed the hose for more room. I was going to flush the coolant and change the heater core if everything had gone okay. I went back and checked to make sure the idle air control valve and throttle body sensor were connected to make sure I didn't miss anything. Also had to recheck the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line.
 
#25 · (Edited)
Well, I received the injector seals today and went outside to look at the task in hand. I discovered that while putting the intake manifold back on, I had the support clamp for the PCV long tube between the intake and the head :mad:. Looks like I may have pinched the tube so I will have to order another one just in case I put a hole in it.
 
#26 ·
Finally, all of the parts are in now. I'll try to get started on the replacement of the PCV hose and injector seals tomorrow. It's too hot to work in the garage this week (108Âş outside, much hotter inside). South Texas is hell in the summertime.
 
#27 · (Edited)
I was able to pull it all apart again today and found that the PCV hard pipe that was pinched did not have a hole in the tube, but the vacuum line to the PTC nipple was loose. Went to Autozone and bought some vacuum line to replace the fitting that was on the end of the hard pipe for the PTC line. The #3 and #5 injectors popped out of the rail kind of easy, so I'll do the new seals tomorrow and that should fix it. We had a four year old little girl go missing in the development, so I stopped to help the neighbors and police search for her. They found her a little later okay in a neighbors back yard (thank God!).
 

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#28 · (Edited)
Got all of the parts in for the project Volvo (I ordered 5 injector rail seals instead of injector seals - wrong!). Put the intake back on with new vacuum lines and PCV pipe. Just need to put the seals and spacers on the injectors and install and hopes it fires without any misfire codes. Engine needs a good cleaning.
 

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#29 · (Edited)
Put it all back together today and it idles better than before. Turns out it was a vacuum leak at the PTC and probably where the bracket for the PCV tube was between the head and the manifold. Now it is off to have the trans drain and fill while I wait for the heater core coolant pipe and the o-rings. Will finish installing the new heater core with new coolant hoses.
 
#30 · (Edited)
Took the car in for the trans drain and fill and had the shop do a quick once over to see what else needed attention. Well, there is a torn boot on the driver CV axle and the joint was dry (don't know how long it was like that), a small leak developing at the bottom of the radiator (I do get a whiff of coolant sometimes) and the power steering fluid should have been changed years ago. Guess I'll have them do the work as long as their parts prices are not higher that FCP's. Also had some leaks that they say may be coming from the cam seals, but the previous owner replaced them (guess he didn't clean up after). They are going to clean those areas and recheck at a later date.
 

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#31 ·
Car is headed to the indie on Thursday for a driver side axle, radiator and power steering fluid change. Also, went to the JY today just to see what Volvo's were in the yard. Found a full set of roof rails with clips and trim from a V70 and a fuel rail cover for $33.00. Now just have to wait until the paint work is done to install the rails.
 

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#32 · (Edited)
Well, picked car up from the Indie for the radiator, drive axle and power steering refill and this happened. Seems the clamp for the upper transmission cooler line was not seated firmly and it loosened and I blew fluid all over the left side of the engine bay. Luckily I didn't drive all the way home (stopped at my buddies restaurant about five miles from the shop). It still had fluid in the trans because it apparently was still pumping out when I stopped. Shop is going to keep it and fix connections and test drive it to see if there was any damage. Said if there is a problem, they will make it right and cover the transmission.
 

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#34 · (Edited)
Hopefully the trans wasn't damaged.
They are going to check to see how much fluid was pumped out. There was a trail about three blocks long all the way to where I parked it. The clip that were on the trans line to the radiator was rattling around the pipe. I told them to check the ones to the oil cooler side also. I'm going to have them secure all four lines with hose clamps like it was before.
 
#37 · (Edited)
Those connectors are great; you guys just need snap ring pliers so they don't get messed up on installation/removal

Replace the clips and clips and you'll be good to go
 
#40 ·
Oh I was commenting that the connectors will be good to go....although hopefully the trans will be, too.

Those clips get real messed up when improperly handled.
 
#43 ·
Oh I was commenting that the connectors will be good to go....although hopefully the trans will be, too.
Yeah, I was wondering how much damage could be done with a three block trail of fluid and fluid still coming out after the car was stopped.