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Tips/tricks for installing silicone turbo coolant hoses?

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15K views 10 replies 4 participants last post by  95WanderWagen  
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#1 ·
Picked up a set of do88 silicone turbo coolant return lines and went to have them installed today while at work (needed a new tire and alignment anyway so I just told them to do it while under the car).

They couldn't get one side of the inlet hose on, due to the diameter of the hose being smaller from the thicker walled silicone. Tried every trick they could (they did manage to get the steel pipe side of the hose on, but couldn't fit it over the turbo side) to no avail. Has anyone installed these do88 lines before and do you have any tips/tricks I can pass along to them to make it easier tomorrow when they try again? Trying to avoid modifying/trimming the walls down with a razor blade if at all possible...

Here's the kit I ordered, should fit with no issues...I know silicone lines have been done on other cars from what I've read on the forum... http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/67962/Turbocharger-Cooling-Hose-Kit-Silicone-Black-DO88KIT24S/

On another note, they did say the turbo was dripping some oil, there was a bit pooled up on the bottom of the turbine housing. I haven't noticed any spots in the driveway other than what looked like coolant coming from the area of the inlet hose on the turbo...Would this be common sign of oil feed o ring failure?
 
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#3 · (Edited)
They tried spraying them with lube, tried heat, and still couldn't get the lower one on...He opted not to even attempt the upper one given the trouble he had with the lower. He did manage to get enough heat on it to stretch the hole on the flared end enough to slide onto the coolant pipe, just couldn't seem to get it on the turbo inlet...

Google/forum search seems to net results saying that it may require taking ultra fine grit sandpaper to the coolant pipe itself to clean it up to an almost mirror finish, then install..IPD website says a bit of dish detergent may work well..

They are going to play with it tomorrow. I have to head into work early to drop the car off, so maybe I can be of some help and crawl under the car with them before I punch in...Not a lot of room under there to work, but perhaps with enough hands in the area we can manage to force the hose on...My thoughts were to get a bolt slightly larger than the pipe/inlet itself and give the hose enough heat that if we thread the bolt in that it will stretch, then install...
 
#6 ·
My fcp hoses I got are extremely tight to get on, but all of them went on with wd40 and a little twisting all but the bottom intercooler 90 degree elbow [emoji35] not enough room to twist or force it on. Going to try again today when I have another set of hands. They make the outside diameter the same as what it's suppose to fit around so it's a super tight fit. But I can't complain I bought the eBay silicone hoses and they go on right over the pipe and have to tighten them down with clamps and had one blow off a couple of times. With t bolts they might hold but the bottom hose was extremely big and didn't install it. Would not recommend them to anyone
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#7 ·
Best advice I read on the issue is to take a utility knife and cut a 45 degree chamfer on the inside of both ends of the hose. Doesn't effect performance of the hose since the hose clamp will be inside of the area you cut.

I did this on my FCP intake hoses after trying the heat and lubricant thing together. Still needed a spray of lubricant but man did it remove some frustration.
 
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#8 · (Edited)
They managed to get them on today. Ended up doing it from the top by removing the intake box from out of the way. Same problem as yesterday, they couldn't get the turbo side of the inlet hose on. Ended up having to trim them back a touch with a shop knife and right on it went. Funny thing, they said there were no problems at all with the top hose :lol:

After that I swear the temp gauge reads ever so slightly lower...used to sit about 1/8" above the halfway position, now it sits pretty much right at halfway. The little things done to improve efficiency and reliability apparently make a lot of difference...

The Ebay intercooler lines (from G2Plus) I'm pretty happy with so far...had one issue so far with blowing off the mid pipe, but that was easily fixed by repositioning and tightening down the hose clamp. I may change the clamps out eventually and put a different style worm clamp in...The only other real issue I've had with blowing hoses off has been the IAC valve hose, but its due to me not installing a hose clamp on the vac tree side of it lol...Still have to fix that yet, call it a fuel efficiency fail safe, keeps me from getting my foot too far into the turbo lol :D :roll:

Next task to tackle: Oil return line gaskets and tracking down why the car misfires/backfires under heavy boost (at ~65%+ throttle). Wonder if I'm hitting fuel cut on the BSR tune since its running a 16T instead of a 15T...New ARD TCV and lines will go on next week, currently saving for a proper ARD tune...
 
#9 ·
You must have got a decent set of them. They refunded me $12 for the bottoms hose. I'm sure with a t bolt or maybe even a clamp it might tighten down but I wasn't going to try it. After I found the weak spots of it I fixed it and it would hold 15 psi. But I just wanting something I know for sure when I put my foot down I wouldn't have a thought in the back of my head that one might blow off. And if you have a tune you might not have a fuel cut.

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#11 ·
When I first installed the intercooler hoses, I did have a boost leak at the turbo inlet. The hose wasn't as tight a fit as the factory one on the turbo side of the coupler. Fit the intercooler pipe great, but I really had to crank down the turbo side. I did blow that one off once or twice at first under high boost (usually when in sport mode and flooring it). But overall I'm happy with them. Only real complaint I have about them is that install is a pain in the ass, especially the throttle body section. The hose running from the TB to the IAC is a bit short and the silicone doesn't have much give, so its a bear to get installed properly. I ended up bending the bracket that the IAC sits on down a little and left the little rubber band hold down for the IAC off the car completely.

I'm not sure whats causing the stumble/backfire under heavy boost. The BSR Stage 3 tune is the only thing I can think of, other than regapping plugs and replacing the cap/rotor. Unless its a wastegate/CBV issue... From what I gather, the BSR tune requires an AFPR and 3" downpipe (as per their website). I have a full 3" OBX turbo back exhaust on the car, the only thing I don't have is the AFPR. Considering the turbo has also been upgraded to a 16T, that could be causing issues with the tune overcompensating for more airflow by pumping more fuel in, and hitting cut...The car just falls on its face out of nowhere between shifts and backfires when I go to pass someone...

Going to pick up the MSD coil and pick up a new cap/rotor next week, see if that makes any difference. Plugs are good, I pulled them and cleaned/regapped them about 3 weeks ago and they are factory Volvo single electrode plugs. Bit blackened, the car is running a bit rich, but that's to be expected with the tune (hence why I think I may be hitting fuel cut)...Also going to try pulling the MAF and cleaning it. May pick up another one at the junkyard and do a minor modification to it.

If I can find one in the boneyard, I'd like to get the 4 bar setup from the Dodge 2.2 turbo that I've read about, which is supposed to bump the fuel pressure (?) a bit over stock?