999 5433

It's a counterhold.

 

I can walk you through the process if you'd like.

 

how did you replace the front camshaft seals?

 

There is a how to with video on here somewhere. Do a search - I would but I am not feeling strong in the force today.

 

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?151190-Timing-belt-replace&highlight=timing+belt+video
EDIT: All 3 vids are "no longer available" when I clicked on them

This is from the S60 forum so I duno if that translates to R, although Im sure they are similar...?

 

I am mechanically inclined but inexperienced with timing belts and volvo's. All the same I would like to try and tackle this myself because with our cars it seems liek sometimes the parts arent too bad but the labour is the killer. I have two working hands and love tearing things apart an putting them back together so paying someone to do somethin I could do myself seems silly to me

 

I can email you the VIDA instructions. I did mine a couple weeks ago. You DO NOT have to pull the oscillation dampener. You can instead pull 2 10mm bolts off a plastic guard. Doing that means the special tool (counter hold) is not required.

 

I will PM you

 

Ok so I just tried to watch the 3 vids from the S60 forum and none of them are available any longer due to the account owner closing the account, that said I will put together a How To, based on the VIDA instructions, with pics, when I get around to this which will hopefully be in about 2 weeks. Thanks to all for the input!!

 

sent.

Here is the text. You should have images and all in the email I sent.

----------

21: Timing gear, B5254T4
Print

Timing belt, replacing
Special tools:
999 5433

Note! Since the illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and/or models, some variation may occur. However, the essential information is always correct.
Remove components

Caution! Remove the ignition key.
Remove:
the cross stay between the suspension turrets
the upper timing belt cover
the servo reservoir and the expansion tank.
Lift up and place on top of the engine.
Warning! Ensure that no power steering fluid is spilled. Extremely flammable.
the auxiliaries belt
the front timing belt cover.
Position the engine according to the marking

Remove the right front wheel
Remove the nut from the cover in the wing liner
Install the upper timing belt cover
Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the markings on the crankshaft and camshaft pulley correspond
Turn the crankshaft a further 1/4 turn clockwise and then back again until the markings correspond.
The markings are illustrated

Remove the upper timing belt cover.
Removing the timing belt

Slacken off the belt tensioner.

Slacken off the centre screw for the belt tensioner slightly.
Hold the centre screw still. Turn the tensioner eccentric clockwise using a 6 mm Allen key to 10 o'clock.
Remove the timing belt from the tension pulley, camshaft pulley and water pump.
Note! The component can be reused unless it has been subjected to abnormal mechanical stress, damage or oil contamination.

Remove the vibration damper. (Mr. Unassailable input ::: I CAN NOT STRESS HOW OPTIONAL THIS STEP IS!!!!)

Remove the oscillation damper. Use counterhold 999 5433 . Work the oscillation damper loose.
Remove the timing belt
Checking the tensioner pulley and idler pulley

Check bearing wear:
spin the idler pulley and listen for noise.
If replacing with a new idler pulley, tighten to 24 Nm.
spin the tension pulley and listen for noise.
When replacing, screw the tension pulley into place using the centre screw.
Screw in the centre screw by hand.
Ensure that the tensioner fork is centred over the cylinder block rib.
Ensure that the Allen hole on the eccentric is at "10 o'clock".

Installing the timing belt

Note! The component can be reused unless it has been subjected to abnormal mechanical stress, damage or oil contamination.
Install the timing belt over the pulley on the crankshaft.
Install the oscillation damper. Tighten the center nut to 180 Nm. Use counterhold 999 5433 .
Remove the counterhold and install new screws. Tighten the screws to 25 Nm. Angle-tighten 30°
Install the new belt in the following order:
crankshaft
the idler pulley
intake camshaft pulley
exhaust camshaft pulley
water pump
belt tensioner.
Tighten the timing belt

This adjustment is carried out on a cold engine. A suitable temperature is approximately 20°C/68°F.
At higher temperatures, for example with the engine at operating temperature or at higher ambient temperature, the needle is further to the right.
The illustration shows the position of the indicator when aligning the timing belt tensioner at different temperatures.
For engine serial no. up to 3188688

Tension the timing belt as follows:
turn the crankshaft clockwise carefully until the timing belt is tensioned. The belt must be tensioned between the intake camshaft pulley, the idler pulley and the crankshaft
hold the centre screw on the belt tensioner fixed. Turn the belt tensioner eccentric counter-clockwise until the tensioner indicator passes the marked position.
Then turn the eccentric back so that the indicator reaches the marked position in the centre of the window
Secure the eccentric and tighten the center screw to 20 Nm.
Check that the indicator is in the correct position.
For engine serial no. from 3188689

Tension the timing belt as follows:

turn the crankshaft clockwise carefully until the timing belt is tensioned. The belt must be tensioned between the intake camshaft pulley, the idler pulley and the crankshaft
hold the centre screw on the belt tensioner fixed. Turn the belt tensioner eccentric clockwise until the tensioner indicator passes the marked position.
Then turn the eccentric back so that the indicator reaches the marked position in the centre of the window
Secure the eccentric and tighten the center screw to 20 Nm.
Check that the indicator is in the correct position.
Check

Checking markings:
press the belt to check that the indicator on the tensioner moves easily
install the upper timing belt cover
turn the crankshaft 2 turns. Check that the markings on the crankshaft and camshaft pulley correspond
check that the indicator on the belt tensioner is within the marked area.
Reinstall

Reinstall the removed components:
the front timing belt cover.
Tighten to 12 Nm..
the upper timing belt cover
install the auxiliaries belt
the servo reservoir
the expansion tank.
Note! Ensure that the hoses are positioned correctly.
the cross member. Tighten the screws at the suspension turret to 50 Nm and the screw for the engine bracket to 80 Nm.
Wipe clean and check the engine compartment
the cover in the wing liner
the front wheel according to Installing wheels .
Checking work
Function test:
Test drive the engine.

 

sent.

Here is the text. You should have images and all in the email I sent.

With that much detail, you NEED to publish a How To thread! And with photos of course!

 

Vlvo-tech had a video on youtube but I can't find it right now.

 

i believe those videos have been removed as stated in my lat post but thanks! and thanks again Mr.unassailable, email recieved!

 

Please see my updated instructions. I had to print screen and upload so i figured I'd post to public. I think I got them all in the right places, but if something looks off please let me know and i'll change it.

 

That worked, got all the pics im pretty sure! Thanks again Vol-bro!

 

NP. Hope it goes smooth. If I had known about the not having to remove the oscilation dampener I would of been alot better off. But either way it wasnt bad. I could not find the mark on my lower pully so I just parked the gears and marked them. Ended up not being able to get it perfectly how I wanted it. rolled it a few turns and had no problems so I fired it up. Runs great. I will eventually re-time it.

You need a 27mm (I think) for the lower pully (for turning the motor). I had one already. hooked it up on 16" of extensions and had no issues rotating the crank. If you dont have one (verify its the right size maybe with volvo) and get one for your 1/2" drive ratchet and get 16-20" of extensions. Makes turning the crank easy, very easy.

^^^ see big socket and marks

That's the only photos I took. I think with that posted I'm no more help.

 

haha biggest socket i got is 24mm i just checked! buying tools is always a good thing, even if its just a socket! ill include the confirmed correct size when i do a write up

 

It is a 30mm to turn the crank, not 27mm as previously posted.

After tensioning, my timing appears to be off by a half a tooth or less (it was on the money prior to tensioning). Can I simply loosen the bolts retaining the cam gears and re-time it? It sure seems like the right thing to do, but I'm not familiar with the variable valve timing mechanism.

 

I just did this job the other day. Knowing how to change timing belts has saved me hundreds -- or maybe thousands -- of dollars over the years. Here's a few things I've learned...

As in the photos above, make your own marks with a paint stick or gease pencil. However, I recommend extending them onto the belt as well. Then, when you get the old belt off, lay it on the bench next to the new one and transfer the marks to the new belt. Then you only need match your belt marks to your pulley marks. No squinting or second-guessing about pulley location required.

It is usually possible to do this for every pulley, but it was not possible on the Volvo due to that extra flange in front of the crank pulley.

Beware the tensioner confusion! Search this forum for excellent photos and discussion of "long fork" versus "short fork" tensioners. I had to return the kit I bought online and get a proper "long fork" kit from Volvo.

The crank nut can be difficult to loosen. My approach was to heat the nut with a mapp gas/oxygen torch ($60 at Home Depot) and the unleash the full fury of my 1/2" impact gun. No conterhold toll required in my case.

Double check and triple check your work. This is not a difficult procedure, but the consequences are severe if you screw it up.

It is impossible to be off by half a tooth. You are either off by one or more teeth, or you are in time.

 

PS I would not (and did not!) change the cam seals if they are not leaking. It's another order of magnatude in complexity given the fact that you have to deal with the cam rotators and cam locking tool. Don't venture into thagt scary and dangerous place unless you must.

 

I will be replacing the timming belt and cam seals. My seals are leaking and has gotten the timming belt soaked with oil so they both ervices need to be performed. From the looks of it the timming is normal other than the what I see from Dyno about the long/short fork? I have done timming work before but don't have the tools for the vvt seal so I am in the market for this. Any one have suggestions or even a Vida output on the seals they can share?

 

I haven't taken a close look at my crank pulley but the easiest way to handle that is to put it in sixth gear. Have a helper hold the brake down hard and remove the bolt with a 3/4" breaker bar and whatever length of extensions as stated above. No air gun necessary. But anyway, I plan on doing this in the spring. Cam seals are leaking (lucky me). I've seen an R specific tool on ebay for locking the cams for like 150 bones. Anyone tried this?

 

vplay84. I'm in the middle of doing TB and all associated replacement parts on my 04 "R" and I'm having serious issues with getting enough stretch to the belt to get it around all the sprockets. It just doesn't seem long enough to get around the belt tensioner. I have the correct belt and all the parts (Kit from IPD and a Gates" belt from FCPGroton. I chose not to take the Harmonic Balancer off, but I'm now reconsidering that decision. Is it that much easier to put the belt on with that out of the way? Somehow I thought the belt and adjusting the tension would be somewhat similar to the serpentine belt. Any guidance, suggestion or other would be helpful. Thanks

 

I've always found that you cannot put the belt fully on one pulley and then go to the next and the next. It's easiest to get it just barely started on one pulley, then just get it just started on the next, etc., until you've gone all the way around. At this point, most of the belt is still hanging off the front of all the pulleys, but now it is easy to push the belt onto the pulleys for full engagement.

If you have not taken the damper off, you cannot do this, of course. Good luck.

Make sure to install the belt over the pulleys in the order described elsewhere in this thread.

Also, it is often helpful to CAREFULLY back off the crank pulley to gain a little slack on the "tight" side of the belt. Don't go too far or you'll be off a tooth.

Just when you become convinced the belt will never fit -- POOF! -- It slips on like a glove.

 

Thanks Dyno. I'll give it another try later. Hadn't thought specifically about just sliding the belt on the front of each sprockets first. It definitely makes sense. I appreciate all the input on these forums. They are a great source.

 

Just did the timing belt and tensioner/pulley yesterday on my '05 S60R. Aside from the marks on the crank being nearly invisible, the only other issue I had was with the tensioner pointer. It's the new style long fork, so I rotated clockwise and then came back to just left of vertical as it was about 50F out yesterday and tightened the bolt. I then did the two engine revolutions by hand, and rechecked everything. Timing marks were always fine but the pointer always was right of vertical (hotter) every time I reset it and spun the engine twice. Does anyone know if this is normal, or is there something I should do diffetently. Thanks in advance.

 

http://getpocket.com/s/Ik2F

 

Thanks for the link, I did watch that video before jumping in. After he rotates the engine 2x, he rechecks the marks and the pointer, but it doesn't show where it's at, he just says it's all ok.. Wondering about the pointer position after the 2 manual revolutions, should it be right where it was when the bolt was tightened or is some movement OK?