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Throttle Body Replacement

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7.9K views 7 replies 7 participants last post by  Antherzoll  
#1 ·
Hello folks,
I am reaching out for your aid in determining whether to do this job at home - I have undertaken more advance projects than a ETA replacement before - or to send it to my favorite local Volvo specialist.
I have an 05 V70R 6-Speed with about 113,000 miles on it. I had it in to the specialist recently due to an inconsistent idle and they pegged it as a malfunctioning "ThrottleBody". i am aware that while they diagnosed it that they had taken it off and tried to Clean it, but the "Reduced Engine Performance" light came back on only after a couple of days. So I think it is time for a new ETA or ThrottleBody unit.
What I want to know is if I choose to purchase one myself - I've seen a few good options on Ebay - am I required to take it to the Dealership or Qualified Specialist to have it REPROGRAMED after? Or do the post 01 Bosch ETA models vary from the earlier ETM models that required reprograming? i would of course love to avoid taking it to the Stealiership, but don't want to make the problem worst. Any advice is appreciated.
 
#2 ·
#3 ·
#5 ·
I have an 04 and I've pulled my throttle several times to clean it and later replace it. It's pretty easy, the worst is reinstalling the bolts because you're working blind and upside down. Plus you'll need to keep the gasket fitted correctly. However, if you take your time you'll have no trouble. There's no software or reprogramming either, just plug it in and go.

*First, order a couple new OEM throttle gaskets because they're cheap and you don't want to re-use yours
*Remove the air filter, air box, MAF pipe (leave the MAF installed to the pipe if you don't have security torx drivers), then reach under the intake manifold and undo the clamp holding the intercooler-exit pipe to the throttle.
*Then, remove that pipe entirely by undoing the clamp on the other end of it, being careful with the boost pressure sensor. Stuff a rag into the open end of the pipe to prevent bugs and loose tools from getting in there.
*Now, cover the starter motor contacts with a towel or something rubber because they are hot, even with the key out, and if you drop a tool on them it'll make a pretty light show. You could pull the battery instead if you're a nancy.
*Now remove the throttle, there are four bolts, then screw up into the manifold. Use your socket set to find the right one (14mm maybe?), and break each bolt.
*Undo the throttle data cable, be gentle as you need to reuse the pigtail and don't want to break its locking clip
*Remove the rest of the bolts and make absolutely sure you don't drop them. Support the throttle so the last one doesn't drop it, then remove it.
*I never knew which way to install the gasket, with the pointy ridge facing up or down. It's sealed now, so it either doesn't matter or I was lucky.
*Reinstall the throttle with the gasket, I usually put one bolt in the throttle to hold the gasket in place, then reach up under and try to attach it to the manifold. The motor of the throttle faces to the right, on the front. This part is the annoying step, get all four bolts in and then snug them tight. I hate it when repair guides give you one sentence on some hard, big step so this was my chance to do the same, ha.
*Throttle back on, attach data cable, pull rag from intercooler, attach intake pipe, snug the clamp *tight* as it's hard to seat right and if it pops off later it's hard to get to. Attach the other end of the pipe to the IC, boost sensor, MAF pipe, airbox, air filter, MAF data cable (if you pulled it), then double check you didn't leave any parts or sockets in the engine somewhere, and put the key in. You might want to go to position II and let it sit for 90 seconds so the throttle will self-calibrate, you should be able to hear it move and click. Start the car, if it makes a loud noise then perhaps you didn't count the sockets correctly? Let's hope not. No noise, rev it a bit, then commence celebration drinking.

You can do this job, it's not terrible, but remember the car will be down until you're totally done, so schedule your time wisely.
 
#6 ·
Just did an etm yesterday. I didn't even remove the pipe that goes from etm to ic. Just unhooked it off etm and pushed it out of the way. Also another way to get alot of room is take the rad fan out. I know it sounds bad but it's litterly 2 bolts and a plug. Was so easy. Just start taking her apart. It's really easy.
 
#7 ·
FYI regarding XeMODeX

FYI regarding XeMODeX:

Question:
"Looked at your site and see that you do some Volvo electronic and electro mechanical rebuilds. I'm looking for a rebuild of an ETA on a 2005 V70R 6-Speed vehicle, but did not see it on your site, just up through 2002.

Wondering if the web site just needs updating or in fact ETAs beyond MY2002 are not done or not doable.

Please advise… much appreciated."

Response:

Unfortunately we only work on the throttles for 1999-2002 ('02 non-turbos only). I apologize for the inconvenience.

Regards,

Cindy Menon
Sales Executive
XeMODeX
2-6150 Kennedy Rd
Mississauga, Ontario
L5T 2J4

Now I don't know if a '99 to '02 non-turbo will work on a '06 turbo, but guessing, No.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Now I don't know if a '99 to '02 non-turbo will work on a '06 turbo, but guessing, No.
No it won't work, I'm surprised no one mentioned this sooner. My suggestion is to buy a used ETA from a scrap yard to determine if that's the issue before buying new, plus if it work run it until it has problems. No software downloads needed, just reset the ECU via battery disconnect and plug n' play.