The engine can make 300hp without any serious modifications. However, the AW42 auto transmission can't handle more than 300hp, and even that is pushing it. You might want to swap a manual M56 gearbox but that will cost you additional $1000 and they are actually quite rare to find.

As for price, if they are asking $5,000-6,000 the car needs to be in perfect condition at that mileage. The owner has to provide full service records to warrant that asking price.

Reliability:
- after 140k miles expect to change struts and spring seats
- also after 140k miles expect the heater core to go bad (radiators also tend to give up around that time)
- PCV system needs to be replaced, and the condtion of the rear main seal needs to be checked. (when you test drive a potential buy, get the engine warm for about 15 minutes, pop the hood, pull the dipstick out and pull on the throttle cable. If there's smoke, the PCV is bad and it may have already affected the main seal)
- transmission fluid - check and make sure it's not black.

Other than that, they are not bad cars at all.

 

The engine can make 300hp without any serious modifications. However, the AW42 auto transmission can't handle more than 300hp, and even that is pushing it. You might want to swap a manual M56 gearbox but that will cost you additional $1000 and they are actually quite rare to find.

As for price, if they are asking $5,000-6,000 the car needs to be in perfect condition at that mileage. The owner has to provide full service records to warrant that asking price.

Reliability:
- after 140k miles expect to change struts and spring seats
- also after 140k miles expect the heater core to go bad (radiators also tend to give up around that time)
- PCV system needs to be replaced, and the condtion of the rear main seal needs to be checked. (when you test drive a potential buy, get the engine warm for about 15 minutes, pop the hood, pull the dipstick out and pull on the throttle cable. If there's smoke, the PCV is bad and it may have already affected the main seal)
- transmission fluid - check and make sure it's not black.

Other than that, they are not bad cars at all.

+ 1

Reliability wise I've always found these cars to be great. The only time I've been left stranded was because my alternator had decided to go ahead and kick the bucket.

It's true, as these cars get older they tend to nickle and dime you a bit, but so many of the common problems are documented at this point, you pretty much KNOW what you need to get ready to replace when you see the signs.

Do it!

 

I am on my 2nd 850R. Both '96 model year. First was a red sedan. Sold it because I hate red cars. After a couple years of looking, finally found my white wagon. Could NOT be happier! Of course, the wagon had all of the typical 850 issues as the previous owner(s) didn't keep up with the simple stuff, but at least now I know everything is in top shape. It's a blast to drive, rather fast (especially since I did a manual transmission swap) rather economical and very practical. Insurance is CHEAP as are parts. I do all of my own work so I save a ton there. Just remember, a lot of these cars are quite high miles, and have been owned by "kids" and have been dogged. Also look for poor workmanship in repairs by "kids" doing their own work and butcharing things. But, if you can find yourself a good, unmolested car, go for it!

 

The "kids" statement could not be truer lol. Just search youtube you will find a bunch of teens beating their cars. So I undoubtably agree with the bullet-proof motor and I think if I buy (or find rather) an R 110-150k miles I will be fine.

I went to test drive a car today (a black 850R) that was local (thank god!) And there were..... some problems. When you turn at or near full lock there is a popping noise (i am guess cv joint?) Also the car sounded like..... Idk a mustang at idle (very rough, also when driving it was either you step on it or you do not go anywhere, there is no smooth acceleration). ABS light was on, the "TRAC" light was on, (i am guessing traction control is broken) odometer was broken they claimed 146k on the car, thats just when the od. stopped lol. With all that they are asking 6k >,<

So all the problems I just outlined, are those... normal? Lol

 

also one other question, couldn't I just buy a turbo or T-5 model and put an R ecu into it? Not like the turbo models are hard to find

 

With all those visable issues, 6k is a bit much to ask for. If you can't find a clean R, you can always go with a T5, as it's pretty close to an R in most ways. If you're trying to get up to 300 HP, you'd need to reflash the ECU anyway, so it doesn't matter if you have a T5 or an R ECU. Along w/ the ECU, you'll need a bigger turbo and exhaust to get in the neighborhood of 300 HP.

So if you're willing to part with 6K, get a clean T5 for around 3K and put the other 3K into the stage III stuff - that is after you've done all the necessary maintenance that the car needs prior to performance tunes.

 

The TRACs and ABS issue is common in 96 and later. The ABS module fails. Replace is about $800.
Repair it is no more than $100. Several sources on the internet repair them (reliably, too). Dealers
and most shops only want to put in a new part so most people with this problem have probably
been quoted a big repair bill to fix it. 95 and earlier had a different ABS system and a light
on for those probably needs a new ABS pump or other major work.

850 odometer gear failure is common. Many 850's odometers readings are probably not accurate.
I think a dealer can query the cars electronics and get the true readings. For MY 95 you can
get the under hood LED diagnostic system to blink it out. Google search that stuff. Repairing the gear
is a few bucks in parts and some time to disassemble and fix yourself. Not very hard.

An ECU tune is readily available for all turbo models and for less than $300 a T5 will have more
power than a stock R. Same tunes are available for the Rs. Sources are IPD, ARD (new) and
some others. They often come up for sale used on volvospeed.com or ebay. 5 minute drop in
change.

1998 S/V70s T5 model years have larger turbo, available manual transmission and better engine management
system. Those make a nice start for simple mods that go a long way (as do 850 turbo models). So don't
discount an S70. 1999 and later S/V70s are harder to mod and their 5 speed auto does not seem to be
as reliable as the older 4 speed auto found up to 1998. They also have some issues with the electronic
throttles introduced in 1999.

Last November I was looking for a car for my daughter. (ended up with a 200 S40.) I saw a lot
of 850s and S70s that were junk. Most of those on used car lots or being sold by mechanics.
I think second and third owners just drive them with no repairs. Original owners probably took
care of them (they cost $30-35K new which is $45-50K in 2011 dollars so people had an investment).
So just take your time and wait for the right car. I do see many more used cars available now.
Nov/dec is a bad time to buy which might be why I saw so many troubled cars in that there was very
little to choose from at that time of year.

 

Agreed. Look for a 1998 S70/V70 T5 with a manual. Don't get any other year. These are the best in terms of performance/reliability.

Personally, I would only get a 850R if it is a red wagon, or a a yellow car (the 95's), because of their rarity and awesomeness. I would never get a 850R black sedan - just get a T5 and if you so desire swap the spoilers and you are done.

Good luck with the search! (I'm searching too.)

 

I took a while and I did find an 850R pretty clean! Yes a black saloon but body is clean.. Just finished stage 0, +.5!! it's nice 150k and runs great! Love driving it. Heres a pic!

Worth the work find one! Really was looking for an 850R wagon, but not an easy find! Good luck!

 

Nice! looks good, post more pics =) How much did you end up paying btw? >,<

 

I ended up paying 36 for it! There is a red one for sale on the local CL going for 42 right now!
This was on the way home from buying it! They were waxing it when i was pulling up! The body and paint sold it!

It was all stock when I got it! First thing done was oil change, fuel filter, timing belt/water pump, and 2 tires! It had 225/50R17's on it they rubbed every where! The other two were ok! Since then I've done alot of work. Stage 0 including entire PCV system, tune up included MSD coil upgrade with bigger wires. The turbo was only making 6psi found that to be a torn TBV diaphragm, installed IPD HD diaphragm and spring. 3" turbo back w/ test pipe(aka not cat.), MBC, and gauges set to put 14psi with stock tune! Runs good, fuel pump and alt. quit a couple weeks ago! Installed new alt. and walbro 255lph pump. Ready for bigger turbo, injectors and tune next! Keeping up with the little things is the important part! I'm a 12 year professional technician so I didn't flinch buying something with some mileage on it! Love driving it and it turn heads everywhere I go! Even when I stopped by the Volvo dealer to clear SRS codes it got alot of looks from the sales dept. Love it!

 

I picked up a black T-5R wagon with 188,000 on the clock (still working). It was owned by an older guy, almost 70. Motor is very strong and was in as good as shape (mechanicly) as my yellow sedan that only had 110k. I have just a few more things to do to get my wagon in A-1 shape, hopefully by the end of the month. There is a buyer's guide over on VolvoForums (http://www.volvoforums.com/m_72405/tm.htm), it has a lot of good info. They are real fun to drive but as mentioned, try to stay away from cars that have been modded by the young. Run a carfax/autocheck just as an extra safety step and anything over $5000 should be real clean or very rare. Wagon's are pretty rare, any color. A lot of people have ditched them not thinking that they would have any value but that is changing fast.