upper mount? I would get a new mount, ball joint and bearing plate when changing CA

 

I forgot about the ball joint too. whats the bearing plate? on the control arm?

 

Bearing plate is the most 'upper' part of the suspension, it's the part that bolts up with three nuts in the engine bay. It looks like a flat metal plate with a round bearing in the middle.

Mine also makes a creaking noise but when turning. I have been told it's bearing plates. It doesn't do it when stationary and the suspension compressed though, just when turning part lock.

As for a noise when the car is stationary with the suspension compressed, well, could be lots of things I suppose. If you're certain it's something that compresses, then it's a spring or shock as they're the only parts that compress really.

I had a knocking noise that occurred over imperfections in the road, this was a drop link on the anti roll bar. Also at one point I had bad vibrations that seemed to be cured by replacing the LCA bushes and ball joints.

I've experienced a squeaking noise when cornering before as well, this was the brake disc protector/shield touching the disc.

I suppose none of the above address your issue, but maybe food for thought. Sometimes bushes can dry out where the rubber will creak a little, try spraying a few things with WD40 and see if it cures it for a while. Try this with the bearing plate too, spray a little lube/grease onto the strut top and make sure it goes in between the bearing. It may help determine the fault.

 

Thanks. I'm going to cover right side with wd40 tonight in 40 degree weather lol. I'll see how it sounds in the morning. Now I have a question. If I pull the wheel off, what should look for as far as worn. Us hints or parts?

 

make sure your shock isn't leaking or shows signs of a leak also, a classic sign of a bad shock.

 

OK update! I finally went out and wd 40 everything. After the wd 40 splatter there is no more wreaking going on! There is a still a clanking sound coming from the under the car when I drive, but I believe that's due to the horrible condition of the bushings. I need a real alignment. I was concerned about the struts, but they looked good and I didn't see in leaking from them. Prolly go to Volvo to get it done right. Everything else look to be in order. Endlinks surprisingly look brand new (gift from the last owner lol). The only damage I could see on the suspension was the control arm bushings. Both on both sides were worn pretty bad. I don't think its the only thing I'll end up replacing in the next month or too, but hopefully it will stop the suspension soundtrack lol.

And pictures of my falken tires that were brand new as of June. So much for 40,000 miles huh?

 

Your bushings and tires are tell you a story about your car. Plus WD 40 is not strong enough to provide any meaningful help. Use a rubber safe grease to see what the squeek is.

Common causes are

a) failing anti rollbar bushings (disconnect the roll bar and see if the squeek persists)
b) Failing bushings OR bushing pressed into far (or not far enough) and having contact
c) Spring seats missing or worn. Volvo has a rubber mount on the bottom of the spring to correct this. Has the shocks been cahnged recently? They too can squeek.
d) Axle shaft bolts and CV joints. They articulate as the suspension goes up and down.

 

My creaking noise stopped for the last 2 days since it's been 60+ weird. I'm sure as soon as it hits in the 40s or lower the noise will be back


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Another update. I got the control arm bushings changed. Ride is much better. Found out the clacking sound when I'm driving is the stop plate inside the well weld to stop the tire from rubbing through the plastic cover. the plastic rivet fell off and that thing was moving around. Struts look good. But I have two more bushings to change, but I no idea what this bushing is called. Maybe torsion bar bushing? I have a pic.

And this is the plate that was flopping around. Its the piece right behind the rotor.

 

Your first picture: That is your anti-sway bar. I do not think that you can purchase stock bushings. It comes as one unit with sway bar.
This may be a good time to upgrade to IPD track spec anti-sway bars.

 

The bushings are volcanized to the sway bar, you have to replace the entire bar. You would have to do a whole lot of burning, etc to get the bushing off and I don't think you can buy new ones. I think the stock bar is $150 or so from when I looked. Although may be a good reason to purchase some track specs from IPD.......

I was chasing a noise in my front end (passenger side) for quite a while. Replace endlinks, control arms (instead of just bushings), ball joints, axle bolts and eventually axles. I did spring seats and upper mounts when I did front struts and TME install.

I was getting two noises. The clunk was the axle/cv joint. After it was replaced that dissappeared, the axle latteral play in it betweent the CV and the hub 2-3mm. I was still getting some creaking noises when turning and going over bumps, but only on occaision. I drove the car for a few weeks after all the new parts and it has gone away, haven't heard it since. My only other option was the outer tie rod ends or the sway bar bushings. Both look ok on visual inspection, but just driving as is for now.

 

Well all sounds have stopped. Car is riding better. I've been looking on the internet for the part only to find ipd, elevate and ultra racing on ebay. Wow! So not cheap. Guess I'll have to wait awhile to get this done. How much would bad bushings affect the overall handling of the car and life of the tires?

 

I also had a creaking noise sound from the front driver side of the R after replacing front wheel bearing hub assembly.

The noise occurred when driving on uneven pavement at lower speed.

And this noise occurred in sunny day, the noise disappeared in rainy day.

I guess the creaking noise was from rubber with metal.

Where should I check?

Ball joint? Bearing plate? Steering arms? Endlinks? Anti rollbar bushings? CV joints? Control arms?

Need some suggestions.

Thanks.

 

Honestly spraying everything with wd-40 stopped the creaking sound altogether. My control arm bushings and anti roll bar bushings were bad. Replaced the ca bushings and it feels alot better. My steering wheel was possessed on less than stellar road surfaces, like EVERYWHERE in Tampa.

 

This is what mine sounded like today. Also, It only happens when it's below 40 degree's and also only the noise is present on the drivers side shock.

Volvo S60 R Shock Noise

Do you think it's a bad shock or maybe I just need to replace the seats?

 

I heard that same sound for awhile, but once I sprayed everything it stopped immediately. I soaked everything. There is still a sound of something flapping around under the car when I'm driving over 40mph. I may be the seats, but I say spray them down first and see what happens. It's going to be hard though to diagnose mine due to the fact that I need to moving to hear the problem. I'm really leaning towards the dealership now. Maybe pay for a suspension inspection and then drive away and get it fixed.

 

Yea mine is only when I'm driving, making a left hand turn and mostly going over the 5 speed bumps in my community. Once the car heats up, I'm driving on the highway for awhile or it goes over 40 degrees the sound disappears.

 

quick follow up question....what did it run to have the control arm bushings replaced? I think I have this problem.

 

I had the same exact sound and went through all the trouble of replacing the upper strut mounts with no change. I finally found out it was the sway bar end links, somewhere on the forum someone mentioned they seem to be a weak point on the R's suspension. I got the heavy duty ones off IPD and creaking is gone, so far so good.

 

when this happened to me it was the spring cushion