PFA: Here is the state of my tension spring..

ALSO WORTH NOTING:
- my original rack seems to have 3x full rotation. The first replacement rack definitely had 3x full rotation. This maval rack feels more like 2.75x.. not sure what the deal is there either.

 

The rack in my 2014 S60 looked the same and leaked badly. I replaced it over two years ago with a low mileage used unit from Erie Vovo for $150 shipped. I had no issues and it has worked flawlessly.

 

UPDATE:

I HAVE THE SOLUTION.. extremely ridiculous that it had to come to this, but I want to save anybody who finds themselves at this point the trouble..

The pinion has to be separated from the rack and clocked to the desired position for your column/yolk to rack connection. Kind of a pain in the ass, but the procedure is as followed:

1. Lock your steering wheel TDC with the seatbealt before disassembly and unbolt the rack from the steering column (you may have to rotate the wheel to get the bolt, then put it back TDC and lock in place).

2. Pull the wheels off, fender liners, and brush guard

3. Disconnect the swaybar end links from the struts, disconnect the tierod ends from the nuckle, disconnect the two lower engine mounts (total removal is the easiest), and unbolt the swaybar.

4. Disconnect the PS lines, unbolt the rack, and remove the heat shield (make sure you've got a drain pan)

5. Drop the rear half of the subframe via the 3 bolts either side (get the exhaust support right out of the way). The subframe will hang on its own, but support it with a jack for the decent and I personally just left the jack there to keep a bit of tension off the front mounts.

6. Rack comes out from the drivers side. Pull it out a bit, then the cavity by the transmission offers just enough space for the dust boot to be worked off. Once removed, the rack needs to occupy the space the swaybar was in and will just rotate forward enough for the top of the pinion shaft to fit out (if you opted to just fold the fender liners.. at this point you will be cursing).

7. Center the new rack out of the car. (Look up how to do this on YouTube, it's pretty easy.. just mark a point on the pinion shaft, mark each lock point, and line up in between)

8. HERES WHERE THINGS GET TRICKY.. now you need to look where your steering column yolk wants to bolt up.. if your new rack and that position are the same, congrats your life is 1000x easier than mine has been.. if not you need to do the following: unscrew the bottom cap that has 4 slots (not the hex). Remove the snap ring on the top side of the pinion shaft. Grab channel locks or visegrips and secure the top of the pinion shaft. Unbolt the 17mm nut that holds the pinion shaft in place. Gently tap out the pinion shaft (take extra precaution to make sure the rack does not move or mark it in a way that will allow you to recenter with the pinion shaft out). Clock the pinion shaft so the indexed point matched the bolt on the steering column. Reassemble the rack.

9. Complete steps 1-6 in reverse..

DISCLAIMER:
This is only required if your rack is out by a position that is not a multiple of 60. If you're out 60, 120, 180, 240 degrees there is an easier solution for you.. my first replacement was out 90degrees and the second 30 degrees.. this required me to take the more drastic action aforementioned and avoid a $1,600 oem rack. I would not attempt this, if you're not confident in your mechanical skills. If anybody has any questions I'm more than happy to answer them here or via PM. The amount of time and energy I have spent on this project warrants sharing the information to help someone else as I could not find a single thread of information or person with experience on this issue. I might even make my first youtube video this thing was such a monster.

Thanks to all who previously offered input on the situation!

 

My final update..

The method I devised still does not get this thing perfect.. I am out by a couple degrees after four separate attempts to clock the pinion (came up shy the first two, went too far on the third, adjusted back to the second position on the fourth). Albeit the lock to lock is better than either replacement rack's original locations, but it is still not perfectly dialed. I suppose somehow that means both remanned racks listed as non speed-sensitive and non R, are still not for my base 13' XC60. I have cross referenced every sales site, oem parts breakdown, and model year. Aside from FCP telling my they don't have this rack listed for my VIN, I am left completely clueless where the difference lies and utterly defeated. I ultimately landed that 1/8th inch out on inner tierod length that will have to be made up in the alignment.. I simply cannot justify a $1600 rack for a car I paid $8k for that I will be actively looking to get rid of in about a years time.. another prime example of what one may called designed obsolescence with this spring loaded plastic cap that clearly allowed water ingress and disintegrated..

Thanks to everyone who read along the way and I'd suggest going OEM for anybody who's seriously considering keeping their vehicle for a longer duration.
:sigh:

 

Wow, I feel your pain. I have been shopping a replacement rack as mine has a slow seep on the driver's side. I will make sure part numbers line up 100%.

There are aftermarket caps available that are made of metal to deal with this issue as well.

 

My pinion gear was all chewed up from the shaft play, so I was ultimately in need of a full replacement. Definitely consult fcp about the match, because the auto generator will say it fits. I just hope this helps as many people as possible so that my efforts are not in complete vain