t5 or 2.4i might help someone recommend nexts steps

 

When you checked all the wiring did you use a noid light to check the firing signal at the injector?

 

Never heard tool like that,have to ask if anyone has that. I just tested with multimeter theres power to wires and all wires are unbroken.

 

A noid light is essentially a LED encased in a specific plastic housing. They come in a kit of about 6 models to fit specific injector plugs (Ford, GM, European, Bosch, etc.) Plug it in, start the car. If the LED blinks then you are getting a signal at the injector. If this is true then you could be looking at an injector with improper impedance or a fault at the injector driver within the ECU.

Autozone, and the like, sometimes offer a noid light kit as a loaner!

Was/is the car mis-firing?

 

Ok! Injector is exactly like the old one (even in datasheets are exact and sold store sold it to me as straight replacement) so that should be good. Car is misfiring, shakes under acceleration,rough idle. No fuel in cylinder 1.

Couple times got it running normal idle when I took injector connector out for couple minutes and like erasing the fault code when it was running but instantly came back when press gas pedal.

 

Okay. The injector signal (voltage) might be dropping out due to that leg of the injector driver heating up and failing. It's fairly rare but I have run into a couple of times. Not on Volvo but on Bosch systems nevertheless. Still, find a noid light kit AND find the ground for the injectors and clean that. I'm new to my V50 so I can't tell you off the top of my head where that ground location is. A dirty ground can cause this by creating too much resistance for the driver.

 

Not sure if this has been checked yet, but have you checked for a voltage drop, especially after it's been running? I've been bit more than a few times by a circuit that I checked for power and ground but never checked for a voltage drop under load.

Also, I haven't had a chance to mess with the fuel rail on a p1 yet, so excuse the ignorance, but have you 100% confirmed that you have the correct connector for injector 1? I doubt it would throw that code if you mixed it up with another injector or connector, but I have seen way weirder things in my travels.

If you run out of ideas, start up the car and start jiggling all the wire looms and connectors. If the engine perks up or runs worse you are getting closer to a possible damaged wire/connector/crimp.

Worst case scenario, buy a cheap pocket oscilloscope on scamazon and start logging away.

 

Not sure if this has been checked yet, but have you checked for a voltage drop, especially after it's been running? I've been bit more than a few times by a circuit that I checked for power and ground but never checked for a voltage drop under load.

Also, I haven't had a chance to mess with the fuel rail on a p1 yet, so excuse the ignorance, but have you 100% confirmed that you have the correct connector for injector 1? I doubt it would throw that code if you mixed it up with another injector or connector, but I have seen way weirder things in my travels.

If you run out of ideas, start up the car and start jiggling all the wire looms and connectors. If the engine perks up or runs worse you are getting closer to a possible damaged wire/connector/crimp.

Worst case scenario, buy a cheap pocket oscilloscope on scamazon and start logging away.

Connector is ok! Bought from shop that is doing injector repairs/test and sells parts for them. Even tried with connector from other cylinder but other cylinder works with these new ones and this number 1 wont even with original connector.

 

volvodiag.com has wiring diagrams 2005-2014
8/6 - 8/10 are the fuel injectors.
12 volts goes to and thru the injectors to the ECM.
ECM grounds the ground side of the fuel injector to make the injector fire.
Look at the injector color code to find your #1 injector.
#1 will be on the timing belt end of the engine.
63/98 is a branching point for 12 volt feed to the injectors.
Cut the harness open to make sure that the branching point is not corroded.
63/98 has a different location for non-turbo/turbo engines.
KOEO, Check for 12 volt going into injector #1 while pushing/pulling on the harness at 63/98 area.
It would be rare to have a faulty ECM.

 

ECM multi-pin connectors are prone to corrosion. When I bought the V50 CEL and warning lights were lit like a Christmas tree and simply cleaning and polishing all the pins with a fine needle file, oxide remover (PRF 7-76) and hosing them with battery pole grease fixed the problem permanently. Eight years and counting.

On the other hand, injector/coil harnesses get crispy over time and the P1 is no exception. Checking continuity on all pins with a leakage current multimeter reveals issues very effectively. If you've never used a leakage current multimeter before, remember to disconnect both ends of every wire first, these devices can and will fry any electronics if they're connected during measuring.

 

Cleaned CEM connectors again with those needle files and sprayed some corrosion protector. Injector harness connector pin "slides" (those little metal things inside the pin itself) was pushed up so it didnt make contact with injector pin ....didnt know that can happen but was wathching some random car repair video on youtube today where guy was diagnosing issues with some sensor and there was loose pin

Atleast car did run good for this test drive, otherwise it did light my SRS light on and show error with curtain signal too low. Have to take look can I just clear that code or what.

Thanks everyone for help!